10/09/2023

We set off on the bikes to learn about the Old Believers. We arrived at the first museum. It was shut. At this point, I realised I’d not brought the bike lock keys. We’d locked the bikes up, but now no way of unlocking them. Fortunately, it was under 5km for me to march back to Jez. I drove back to J, Corrie and the bikes!  With the keys!!!

The other museum was also shut. So were both the churches. There were (living) family members tending the graves in the cemetery, so we didn’t like to go in. Shut, shut and shut.

However, a restaurant was open. Let’s have lunch then!  When we were full time in the motorhome, Sunday was cleaning and go out for lunch day. Well, we managed half of that.

The Old Believer’s were fishermen and renowned for pungent onion growing. You can guess what a lot of the menu was!  I had fish soup followed by bream. J had smoked fish salad and then chicken. All very good, although homely.

At least the guidebook was able to fill in some information about the Old Believers. During the 1600s, Russia adopted the Greek Orthadox religious practices. The changes seem minor to us. Things like how many fingers are used for the sign of the cross. Those who refused to adopt the changes were persecuted. So they left and made their home on the shores of Lake Peipsi. They made their living from fishing and selling onions. We saw many folk selling bags of onions along what is called the Onion Road. This really is the most ‘foreign’ place we have been this trip.