Paphos or Pafos

Posted on February 23, 2026 by Clunegapyears

22.02.25

Like in Greece, the translation can have multiple spellings. Where we live Kambia or Kampia, Almyrida or Almirida, Kalyves or Kalives, Xania or Chania. And the accent. I know Cretan is the equivalent of British Geordie, but here is much smoother, less emphasis on the syllables. And it feels very British. Well, it was. All signs are in both Greek and English. Lots of ex Pats. Hoarding adverts are in English. And they drive on the left … I’ve not been caught out … yet.

Lots of tourists, despite being only February. Crete is largely protected from all year mass tourism, as November till March requires a flight change in Athens. Cyprus is major destination for Brits 30-34% of all tourists. Followed by tourists from Israel Germany, and Poland. Russian visitors are fast increasing. Chatted yesterday to two young charming girls from Russia and Israel who live here. They attend English school.

We packed up and were on the road before 9.20. A journey to our next accommodation, but with stops.

Edro II shipwreck

Built in 1966 and travelling from Limassol to Rhodes with a cargo of plasterboard. A storm in 2011 has given it a permanent home rusting just north of Pafos. The location is particularly pretty. Safari jeep tour stop, so quite busy. Did overhear a guide explaining that a nearby house had hosted UK Love Island.

Coral Bay

Billed as having a stunning white beach … not sure where! They must remove the seaweed for the season. And then we saw a mountain of perfect sand ready to be spread. If all the accommodation is full occupancy, plus the day trippers … yuk!

On a spit is Maa Palaeokastro. Late Bronze age settlement of Greeks from late C13 to early C12 BC. Only a few generations. Evidence of houses and defensive walls. A Linear A script was found … Minoan. Not a lot to see, but J being over 65 was free. I was €2.50

*Only the landward side defensive walls survives, the seaward a victim of the elements*

Tombs of the Kings

Found a much needed coffee en route. Actually, I had two.
A necropolis from C4 BC, not for royalty but aristocrats and officials. And there must have been a lot of them, judging by the huge number of underground tombs. The Romans pinched and excavated a lot of of stone, but remarkable how much survived.

Pafos

Being so close we could not ignore the city. We planned to walk a self guided tour. Think a) we were running out of steam and b) we just don’t like places that exist solely for tourists.

We walked along to look at the fort, where St Paul’s pillar is and a Frankish hamam. Skipped the mosaics and the Archeological Park. And we were done.

*Frankish hamam. The ottomans added the domes*

Drove all of 300m to a superb hypermarket to stock up. Stocked up also on Gordons at under €13 /ltr. After our recent trip to Turkey, we suspect booze will not be easily available and expensive.

Staying 2 nights in Pera Pedi. An hour 30 drive along a quiet motorway east and the north up to the Troodos mountains. Most of this road blighted by wild fires from July ’25. 125 sq km. Apparently 14 villages evacuated. Amazing not to have seen property destroyed, as the Internet states 43 houses were completely destroyed with a further 29 severely damaged.

Forecast for storms tomorrow pm! 😕

Maribor Mak Restaurant, Germany and home

Posted on February 22, 2026 by Clunegapyears

04/11/2025

We started the day by taking Poor Penny’s body to a vet for disposal. It keeps hitting us in waves. Both the old owner on Crete and the new one in Wales have been super supportive of everything we tried to do for her. Monitoring Flo, hoping she doesn’t go down with whatever caused it.

We came off the motorway on entering Slovenia as I can’t be bothered with a go box for over 3.5 tons. Very pretty. Every time I come back to Slovenia, I’m reminded why it’s my favourite country.

The main reason for coming here is to eat at Mak Restaurant. A complete barking rocker chef but amazing food. We also had the paired wine tasting. €319 plus tip for 2 of us. Just fab. So fab, we will go back tonight! Robyn’s fault!!!

Just realised I never finished the trip blog! We had another, but different food and wine night at Maks.

Drove off motorway up through stunning Slovenia and then the Julien Alps and Austria. Slow plough had piled up snow either side of the road.

An overnight stop with Kerstin in Reutlingen. Penny still not house trained. Pee on Kerstin’s floor. And we put most of the pee soaked rugs and towels through her washing machine.

We made such good time, we had 2 nights in Bergues to recover from long driving days.

Back in Blighty, mum cooked and then I dropped Robyn to her daughter-i-l. But only after she helped me empty and clean Jez. He is now on a forecourt near Chichester. End of an era … but we want to use the sale proceeds for long haul.

Maddy and Ben flew back to Crete with me and Jordan joined us for a long weekend.

Cyprus Holiday

Posted on February 22, 2026 by Clunegapyears

20.02.26

A week after arriving home after Turkey & Georgia and returning Jez to the UK, I found myself in a blue funk. Ridiculous as we love living in Crete. Life is good etc. But I realised my mood was as I didn’t have a trip planned. Ryan Air fly from Chania to Paphos several times a week. €79 return … for both us us. They get you on luggage €174 to add 2 x 10kg small flight bags. Still a cheap trip… I got planning!

We cleaned the house. Cleaned ourselves. Dropped Corrie at a wonderful lady, Sam, and her family for 10 days. Strange to be off travelling minus 🐕. But not travelling. This doesn’t feel like travelling. This is a holiday.

J drove to the airport. ABBA (traditional setting off music) was playing. But he didn’t chair dance and drive off the road. Like I did in Jez, setting off for Morocco.

Ryan Air superb. On time. Leg room. Wide seats. Only a 1hr 10 short hop. Hire car collected. Lidl shop done. We even found the apt without too much difficulty. Basic but ok.

Aphrodite Trail

21.02.26

Slowish start may be something to do with Gordon last night. As in gin. Drove up to the NW point. It is here that Aphrodite used to shag Adonis. Bathe and walk to sleep off her exertions under an oak tree. The trail was busy (relatively) but stunning. One of those it is really good to be alive. Fabulous views. A long uphill but strategic benches for water stops. At 78 J was faster than a few youngsters!!! Ice cream reward … my first ice cream in about 3 weeks … that must be a record.

*Aphrodite Bath. Not sure if bathing was before or after her encounter with Adonis!*

*Looking NW. A steep but easy path decent*

Back to the apt to watch England Ireland 🏉. As a dual passport holder, I’m definitely Emerald Isle now. Cracking Wales Scotland game.

*Can see Corrie is being starved of affection!*

*Ben is in Mexico, with Maddy and Jordan obs. Hotel staff kidnapping him and named him Nino Rojo. Think Rojo a great nickname for him!*

Girlie Road Trip & Poorly Pup

Posted on November 5, 2025 by Clunegapyears

Pick Ups and Poorly Penny

01/11/2025

Early start to go back around Athens to collect two rescues pups, who have a new home together in the UK. Both terrified at the port so saved their pee for inside Jez. All rugs now drying on the dash board.

*Chap from TaxiPet fetched Penny and Flo from the kennels on board*

It was soon fairly obvious that Penny not well. She refused food and was bringing up foam and any water. Her litter brother didn’t travel as planned as an inflamed tummy. By 11.00 I was concerned enough to find an open vet. Worried that if I didn’t now, I’d not until Monday. Lots of jabs. And meds.

Then Robyn, my road trip buddy arrived, by plane to Athens at 20.10.

Driving Day via Meteora

02/11/2025

Poor Penny still not good. Starting to be better when we broke her meds into smaller sections and syringed water into her every 15 mins. Passenger cannot sleep!

Fortunately, I was driving, when Flo excreted (diarrhea) all over the van floor. Robyn not so fortunate!

Slight detour to Meteora to show Robyn the monasteries on rocks. Built so the monks could be closer to God. I’ve not been here for 5 years. Still a big wow.

Parked at a Brian-recommended place. Super quiet. Nice beach and Flo actually managed to pee on it. Poorly Penny has very liquid stools, but had a little bounce on the beach.

4 Countries

03/11/2025

We had driven much further than planned. Through Bulgaria and Serbia to Croatia, once we realised that our data roaming packages did not cover Serbia. We wanted data so we could find a vet, if need be.

We were administering two syringes of honey water to Poor Penny every 15 minutes and she was keeping it down. Our biggest concern had been dehydration. However, she still has not had food. We were expecting her to eat tomorrow, same as her brother . Very sadly, Robyn woke at 3.00 a.m. and found that she had passed away. We are so devastated and surprised.

A long day that ended badly.

Kassandra Finger & South

Posted on November 5, 2025 by Clunegapyears

Kassandra Finger

28/10/2025

We planned to walk, but ended up doing a few chores. It is Oxi Day when Greece said no to capitulation to Italy. Greeks out for big lunches and potentially fireworks. We needed a quiet park up for our noise sensitive Corrie. We had planned a spot recommended by friends, but P4N mentioned fines … guess as it is a nature area.

We stopped at Siviri on the first finger, Kassandra. Another beach resort town. Tavernas all busy setting reserved signs on tables. A good coffee at one. Then a short hop up to a modern amphitheater car park. Jobs: admin, hand balling water, cleaning, windows etc. a UK van for 10 mins and a learner stalling and in and out of the car park. Super quiet.

No pix as nothing to capture … this finger definitely seems the least attractive.

Big Drive South

29/10/2025

We left our quiet parking at 0726. Stopped early for diesel LPG and motorway services for coffee and spanokopita (spinach pie).

Stopped near our destination for puppy food, for two rescue pups that I’m taking to the UK, more gin and wine for the drive and the pharmacy.

657 km. Over 10 hours. £83.66 in motorway tolls. I could have broken the trip, but now I have a non driving day. Dinner was definitely in the taverna!

We’ve stopped here a few times before, but not we think since early 2020. The padel court has gone. The car park has new tarmac. And the taverna we used has expanded with a completely new dining area.

Packing and Cleaning

30-31/10/2025

A no drive day and a lie in. I went through all the cupboards and packed my summer clothes, Corrie and James’s stuff and things that we want in Crete into a large and now very heavy suitcase and a backpack. We are planning to sell Jez on his return to the UK, so he will need to be emptied. We have limited storage in UK at the Aged Ps and Maddys.

On 31st, we filled with water, check access at the airport and then had a hideous rush hour drive to Pireaus port. Fortunately, we had planned spare time so were able to have supper together dock side. J and C boarded for their 10.00 p.m. departure.

I had to be back at the port for 0630 to collect the two pups. I contemplated sleeping at the port, but decided to return to Porto Rafti, as I felt safe there.

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels