Limassol & Home

Posted on March 3, 2026 by Clunegapyears

02.03.26

James finally got his hands on the blog ….

Last night after a pleasant drive from Famagusta, we arranged the very modern Aliana hotel in old town Limassol. Another large and comfortable bed – not too firm for Katherine. We decided to treat ourselves to a nice meal on our last night in Cyprus – Places to eat – the first taverna was fully booked – peak time for Cypriots on a Sunday evening – we had a drink at two tavernas – K on mojitos and me on vino rosso! The second inn was very noisy – pop music blaring from speakers and resident DJ. So no conversation. We then repaired to the “Steak House” for some more vino and Negroni for K… I had a good chicken dish – K had steak.

*Our hotel central so K and J able to have a drink out at the same time … oh joy, mojito*

We started Monday doing our own guided tour of part of Limassol – K had a self guided walking downloaded. The usual mix of churches, museums and other attractions. Finishing our walk with brunch.

*Th small square apparently is a nightlife hub*

*New Greek Orthodox cathedral … nice light through the windows*

*The promonade had better sculptures than the Agia Napa Sculpture Park*

Driving towards Paphos, we stopped at Kolossi crusades castle – 14th century. We were only a short time in the castle when the ticket lady said they were closing! There was an alert that a drone attack was a possibility on the RAF base in Akrotiri close by – part of the Iran problems…

We piloted our rented Baby Blue Nissan March car – freshly valeted – to a petrol station en route to the airport – next stop the rental company – the nice young man dropped us at the terminal building. We got through security and passport control fairly quickly – new style passport control – scan, photo and the machine issued a ticket to hand to the staff member – saving time. We saw immediately that our flight was delayed by one hour – concerned as quite a few flights were cancelled or delayed due again to the Iran problems… no sign of any departures or arrivals outside. Gladly we took off only two hours late…

Ghost Towns

Posted on March 2, 2026 by Clunegapyears

01.03.26

Famagusta ghost town is called Varosha. During 1970-74, nearly 50% of Cypriot tourism was at this top class resort. A resident population of c.40,000. The 3rd largest Cypriot city. It attracted the likes of Bardot, Raquel and Burton/Taylor.

Different web sources give varying accounts Here’s my interpretation / summation …
From 1963 and the collapse of the power sharing government, many Turkish (18% of the population) were subjected to ethnic cleansing. Having to relocate to ghettos etc and economic hardship.

July 1974 saw a coup backed by the Greek junta (Generals time). 5 days later Turkey invaded. Reports of massacres of Greeks, including around Salantis, where we were 2 days ago.
The Turkish army planned to reach as far as Famagusta walled city, as many Turkish Cypriots lived there. When they arrived, Varosha just next door, had been abandoned. The Greek Cypriots had fled within a few hours. The residents had expected to be back within days so left virtually everything.

Despite the Turks erecting a fence around it and a NATO presence, who decreed that it can only be repopulated by the original property owners, it was ransacked and then everything removed. To be honest, I said to J, it has been sanitised. We have visited ghost towns before but there is usually evidence of people living there. Varousha doesn’t even have light bulb fittings.

There were boards outside some buildings and a display … the Turkish argument is that most of the land was part of a foundation going back hundreds of years. The land registry shows the land was sold? to Greek Cypriots during the British occupation. But foundation / charity land can not be sold. Turkish PM Erdogan and the TRNC want to reopen Varosha. They will run out of Coastal construction space soon! Visitors were first allowed into a very small area in 2000. Part of their development plan?

We had thought we would hire bikes, but it was precipitous so we pulled up our hoods and walked. Walked the relatively small area permitted. Enyry into buildings in a state of 50 year decay are verbotten. Guards very present to check we comply. A sad place, but strange with no evidence of human life.

*Boards declaring this site was illegally sold by the British, ergo still Turkish*

*The main attraction for the 1970s tourists. Varosha stretches as far as the eye can see*

*They were still building when is was evacuated*

*Businesses, homes and hotels all crumbling*

The top cluster of my pins is the walled city. The 3 orange pins are pretty much the limit of what is now open to visitors. The blue blob is the border control … the Nato Green Line is right at the edge of Varosha. All a bit surreal.

We drove parallel to the coast, along the fenced off city to the border and back into the Republic of Cyprus. Suddenly everything felt different. Better roads. Shops smarter.

The next Ghost Town was Agia Napa. We could not be so close and not have a look.
The Sculpture Park was not our cup of tea.

*Agia Napa Sculpture Park: maybe we lack artistic appreciation but we didn’t think these very fine*

But we stopped for coffee and a toasty with the scant other mostly retired tourists.

Salamis and Famagusta

Posted on March 1, 2026 by Clunegapyears

28.02.26

We left our Kyrenia apartment of four nights and drove to a mountain village, which was described as pretty. Pretty dead! A closed church. No open cafe, but a supermarket. Didn’t buy 70cl of Gordons as have sufficient, but tempting at €11.

*Spotted these, I would have liked to add to my bone collection*

The whole of the north and east coasts are being ruined. Mass tasteless construction. Huge hotel / spa / casino /golf courses. High rises and ‘community lifestyle’ holiday villages. Apparently, the Russians and folk from the Middle East are invading / investing. Could hardly spot the rugged coastline. Once the flat land is full, they will start on the foothills.

The economy is closely linked to Turkey and bouyed up by Ankara. When we in Turkey last summer / Autumn, we knew the economy had got significantly weaker. Inflation ’25 was 30% in Turkey. In TRNC (Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus), inflation was 40%. To put that into perspective, the next closest high inflation was Romania at 8%. By absolute contrast, the Republic of Cyprus was the lowest of the Europe tables at 0.1%. I wonder how the construction companies are budgeting! Let alone families.

We enjoyed Salamis … dates back well before the Romans -C11 BC. But most of what you can see is Roman. It was shifting sands and in 1878 the British decided to forest the area … but the huge site was discovered. Several major excavations since, but we felt there is a lot more to reveal.

*Huge site, so it became a 4.7km walk with interesting way points*

*Amphitheatre: J refused to test the acoustics …*

*Basilica of Campanopetra C5 and a major pilgrimage site. At 152m, it is the longest religious complex in Cyprus*

We checked into our modern hotel in Famagusta … 9th floor . After J’s nanny nap we drove the 3.5km to Famagusta Walled City. The main road was all newish bars, cafes and tech shops.

The C15-16 Venetian walls (built over C13 ones) enclose Gothic, Venetian and Ottoman buildings. Sadly, all but the Lala Mustapha Pasha mosque, formerly the gothic St Nicholas Cathedral, is the only one with a roof. In fact, it is the only one that isn’t a complete ruin. You can see how splendid the structures must have been. But it is sad so little of them is still standing. Little information on the boards either. And the lanes housed tat shops, eateries and some houses… all concrete construction and somewhat shabby. Perhaps had the sun been shining, it would have looked better.

*The Venetian Palac*e: *little remains of the walls behind and it now houses a carpark*

*The Lala Mustapha Pasha mosque. Really is Christian gothic architecture with a minaret stuck on*

*Othello Tower, so named as Shakespeare based his play here. Spotted a Desdemona restaurant.*

*Not a huge choice of non fast food eateries open, so we ate Turkish. Nice to finally have sumac on onions, as didn’t get it once on our 3 month ’25 trip*

Kyrenia

Posted on February 28, 2026 by Clunegapyears

27.02.26

The Turkish name is Girne. Planned to be a slow day with lunch. A bit slower than expected. Kyrenia is pretty with some narrow streets and the harbour. A great castle with museums. But nowt else there.
It was blowing a hooley too.

*The chapel was accessed through a long tunnel*

*Thought J, who weighs the same as a leaf, was going to be blown off the rampar*ts

The castle museums were dusty and very old fashioned … a few Crusader costumes and finds from a Bronze age village. But a 2300 year old shipwreck was truly fascinating. Only discovered and raised in mid 1960’s. It had sailed from Kos and Rhodes, before sinking near Kyrenia with its cargo of amphora, almonds, fishing weights etc

*Unusual construction: the outside was then internally braced*

*A late Bronze age anchor that had been repurposed from a Syrian stone with hierglyph*s *of a hymn*

Lunch at Nima was very good other than a trout pout lady who talked loudly on her phone … constantly. Good value at £102 with the tip, but only 1 glass of wine for J.

Little evidence of many Northern Cypriots observing Ramadam.

And West

Posted on February 27, 2026 by Clunegapyears

26.02.26

We drove to our furthest destination… Blue House Museum. A former kitsch home of someone who MAY have been running guns during the fight against the British. It is in a military zone you normally have to show ID. Told at the well guarded gate, that it is closed for renovation. Advised not even to pause to re-route as cameras were on us!

Views over Goleti Reservoir. Built in 1989 and since expanded. Decided not to walk around it, as it looked scenically samey.

Sina Monastery ruin gave us a leg stretch as access was along a rough track. Believed to be of French origin, but a ruin already by 1882 when Lord Kitchener surveyed Cyprus. Thieves have taken anything of worth, but it still reveals what a significant place it must once have been.

*Finally seen a few ancient olive trees*

*That is Turkey mainland approx 60km. Could see snow on the mountains.*

Back down on the coast, we had a further walk along the Lapta Coastal Walkway; brain child of the local mayor.

*You can get fined one month’s wages if you talk too loudly!*

*Few sandy beaches in the north …locals used to collect salt from the rock pools*

Next stop was Karmi / Keraman. Formerly Greek Cypriot. Abandoned in 1974. The local mayor promoted redevelopment to preserve it’s pretty architecture. So no hot water tanks on roofs etc. Apparently residents are predominantly British and German ex Pats. It was pretty, but twee. I said to J that it is the sort of place where the village elders keep everyone in check. We then saw the Village Committee building! Good coffee and cake though.

We were too late to go into St Hilarion Castle … by 30 mins. But picked up 2 French students (Erasmus in Istanbul) and dropped them at Bellapais Abbey. They compared the poor quality of teaching with their French Universities. But with little contact time, they are exploring as much as they can.

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels