Riviera to Vlore

28-29/10/2023

We left our cheap quirky apartment with an extra bed in every room

Destination another apartment just south of Vlore. The 3 hour drive was 7 hours. I’d planned some stops, of course.

The first stop was Borsh Castle. The tarmac Road ended just beyond it. Heart sank at the steep cliff, but there was an easy zig zag paved path up. My sort of castle as there was no one else there. Only the church had been restored. Free to roam and clamber. And great views.

We stopped for a coffee and watched fill containers with spring water. Saw it a few times on the drive.

Stop 2 was a viewpoint of another Ali Pasha castle. And the No. 3 was the castle on an island. The engineers built the castle and causeway. Then Ali P had them murdered. We often look at places and think what a lovely motorhome overnight stop that would be … this was one.

Island castle
The causeway. The young lad fishing was from a French Motorhome… a tad jealous
All the rooms radiated off this circle inner chamber

Stop No. 4 was another Hoxha bunker, but a big one. It was also going to be our picnic stop. J’s vertigo kicked in badly … it did look as if there was a sheer drop. So I had a quick wander to the entrance of the bunker.

And our picnic was at another viewpoint up in the clouds.

Stop No. 5 picnic in the clouds. Temperature dropped to 16C

No. 6 and final stop was to tread in the steps of Caesar’s 7 legions who landed easily on a large flat beach and marched over the hills to surprise Pompei just south of Vlore. At the top of Ceasar’s pass fab view as you emerged from the forest.

Path through the woods

We received a message from our next accommodation. Don’t try to find the apartment. Meet at Dontello Hotel, my father will be in a white VW Touran … follow him. Really pleased they do it this way, as we zig zagged up some steep un made tracks and semi tarmac tracks to the apartment. We would have definitely lost confidence had we tried to do it ourselves.

On arrival, we cracked open the wine to soak up the views. The apartment is basic, but clean. To eat at night we have to bring the garden table and cracked chairs inside, but who cares at £14 per night.

Butrint Budget Day

27/10/2023

By far the most visited Albanian site. We chatted to a couple from Dublin who had come on a day trip from Corfu. Never less than 5 coaches in the car park.

Butrint spans 2.5 millenia. Occupied and expanded by all. What makes it special, in my opinion, is the location.

Surrounded on 3+ sides by water with much of the fortified wall still intact.

A simple leaflet guided us around the site. English info boards. A lot of the buildings had water inside … below the water table. This is not a recent global warming phenomena, but one huge house complex was abandoned during Roman occupation due to regular flooding. They have to keep a significant mosaic covered over due to potential water damage.

View across to Corfu, which Butrint defended. Ali Pasha built (another) castle at the tip

We had our picnic on the edge of the car park overlooking the marshlands.

We caught the chain ferry across the river that separates the Butrint Lagoon from the sea. Had to hold Corrie tight as the steel cable ran in a groove the length of the floating pontoon.

A friend took his big motorhome across on this recently … 10 ton weight limit! We watched a smaller van nervously board it.
Basic but it works. And note the rubber mats for the height difference.

We walked the sometimes muddy track to see Ali Pasha’s Castle. The guide book warned most of the path is submerged in winter. Lots of evidence of land slide along our causeway.

You’d need a boat to get closer
Back at our apartment … muddy trousers have been through the washing machine!

A good good day and a budget day. Butrint was expensive by Albanian standards at £16.50. Return ferry £2.50. Picnic and salad at home. No coffee or ice cream out. We CAN do a budget day!!!

Gjirokaster

12-14/10/2023

A town we really liked. Albania is proving very marmite. We’d told our accommodation host that we’d arrive at 4.00. We were 20 mins early and as we approached the property, he leapt out, waved and showed us where to park. A good start.

We set off for an amble up the hill to the old bazaar area.  Then I spotted a view point on my phone map. It was up, up and up. But the views were worth it!

J refused to climb the last 87m!
The castle was illuminated just as I reached the viewpoint. 😊
Great supper for under €20. Proper hand cut chips! Corrie helped with left overs.

Great initial vibes. Shame we didn’t sleep well! The bed was rock hard … someone else was obviously hard too … the walls were very thin and we heard everything! Yep, that too!

Room only, so breakfast coffee out in the bazaar
This lady was selling rock art that she carved herself. I didn’t haggle and she tried to press lots of other free goods on me.

We have visited a fair few castles, but this one was impressive. Big walls. Big areas. Big views. And we love it when history joins up. The Ottoman Ali Pasha, who expanded the castle, is the same one whose castle we visited in Ionnina in Greece. We particularly remember him as he was brutal. He had his son’s wife thrown from a cliff.

In 1969, an Amercan plane was forced to land in Tirana. Albania says it was spying and brought down by Albanian MIGs. USA says the pilot ran out of fuel due to fog. Fortunately, he was repatriated after a few weeks.

A light lunch at another small eatery. J went back for his nanny nap and I continued to two museums.

The first, Skenduli House, was impressive. Built in 1823, it was the most expensive house in town with 9 fireplaces, 6 bathrooms, 44 doors, 64 windows and 4 hamam!!! And the ticket lady took time to talk me through it and show me the wedding room. No pix allowed in there, but it was beautiful. Lots of windows and decoration. A screened gallery for the unmarried girls. Women waited in another room. So, only men in here until the bride enters for 10 minutes for the ceremony. As marriages were arranged, this was the first time she met her husband. Sexes were segregated for the feast too.

25 people of the extended family lived here. There were winter and summer rooms. Cooking was done outside due to the fire risk. The family had the house confiscated in the 1980s and only got it back after the fall of communism.

Skenduli house had housed the ethnicolgical museum until they had to hand back the property. It moved down the road to another large wealthy house. The birthplace of Enver Hohxa. Intetesting but nothing like as authentic or beautiful as Skenduli House.

919-921: The Start of Our Greek Odessy

919- Wednesday 6th December 2017: Off to Greece

We completed our services and took the short drive to Igoumentisa port. A long wait of 3 hours….  Some trucks reversing – all over the place (health and safety – but it all works in an Italian beautifully organised disorganised way – bellissimo!.  Where do they put them all?  Ah .. two levels.  Loaded last as first off, most vehicles going onto Patra … we turned around on top deck.  Lots of areas on board closed as not enough passengers … self service restaurant shut till 7.00 p.m. … K had bought a cold supper as we’d been told the food is expensive and not marvellous … so we sat in the cabin and ate that as a late lunch,  fortunately we did not need supper.  Would have been complicated anyway – we’d either have had to eat taking it in turns or leave Oscar alone in the cabin – as we know from the howls that another couple did!   Coffee EUR2.50 each – not paid that since Nice area!

Oscar pooped on the poop deck!  So proud!

Nanny nap, research on Greece, showers (hot and forceful, but didn’t drop the soap – just as well as no room to pick it up!) more wine — bed in stuffy room. 18 hour crossing……………. successfully completed.

IMG 3799

May not be a cruise ship despite the name … Cruise Olympia, but significantly better than the Helsinki-St Petersburgh ship. 

920- Thursday 7th December:  What an Amazing First Day

The same free-for-all disembarking.  Straight onto A2 motorway – brand new with EU money – that route or our destination would have been very wiggly … toll £5.30 for not very far … will need to check roads out – can we do non motorway?  Anyway, we are in Greece – my first time (and Oscar’s) but K was here 30 years ago…..

Dodani … holy oak tree – revered by frenzied priestess and priests, they slept on their floors and didn’t wash their feet!  The Romans chopped the tree down and built temples and an amphitheatre.  

Another nanny nap in the car park as sleep was not great on the Adriatic/Aegean Sea. Good ruins but we always think of Sicilia/Italia as the best – but we will see loads more in Greece.

Iaonnina was our first town destination – walls, lake, castle museums. Superb cheap lunch – yummy.

We drove in the afternoon up the hill to a viewpoint/official motorhome free parking overnight – spectacular views down over the lake…..

P1150315

Our first Roman amphitheatre in Greece.

P1150316

Originally a Greek site, rebuilt with lots of Roman Temples.

P1150317

The original Oak was cut down … the Oracle Priestess would receive slates with questions such as ‘Are my wife’s children mine?”  She would listen to the bottles suspended from the branches that magnified the rustle of leaves and pronounce her answer.  Not sure how she worked in winter when the leaves dropped. 

P1150319

… but people obviously still hope it will bring luck and chucked very low value coins in.

P1150322

Used to be another 10m on top and seat about 17,000 making it one of the largest in Greece.

P1150323

Another Oak waiting for the performance to start.

P1150326

J on role reversal … pulling every which way and cocking his leg.  We’re still working on J being the Boss!

P1150331

Our walk along the lake to the historic town of Iaonnina.

P1150337

Two mosques still in the old town castle, which was the base of Ali Pasha who essentially ruled a massive area as a fiefdom.  This one was the Aslan Pasha mosque 1611 and now municipal museum.  Next door was a Muslim seminary, where Ali Pasha attempted to rate his son’s mistress. For refusing the tyrant’s advances, she was bound, weighted and thrown into the lake with 17 of her companions.  He also executed a rebel in public by smashing his bones with a sledge hammer.  Nice chap!  A young Lord Byron visited Ali Pasha in 1809, Ali Pasha took rather a shine to Byron… sexual? … as he was taken with Byron’s small ears – a sign of high breeding!

P1150339

Inside the Alslan Pasha Mosque.

Screen Shot 2017 12 07 at 16 53 33

Two dishes of the day … lamb stewed with potatoes (falling off the bone) and lamb with fresh tomatoes in a filo parcel served with a rocket, sun dried tom and balsamic salad … with 500cl of local regional wine … £22 with tip.  We’re so going to love these prices … means we can eat out more.

P1150344

Spot the snow!

P1150348

The wrought iron to the left of the mosque is Ali Pasha and his wife’s grave.  I’d hoped to see the Silverware Museum in one of the Castle’s building, but it shut earlier than advertised.  

P1150352

P1150354

So still – an almost perfect reflection.

P1150355

Our night time view point … wonderful.

 

921- Friday 8th December:  Cycling Lake Pamvotidha

 We moved Jez down to the lake side and we cycled 26 km around the lake. Two packs of dogs chased us but they couldn’t work out where Oscar was (concealed in his Os-car).  He went very quiet at all the barking.

Monastery of Dhourahani – very smart and cared for … run as a vocational school for disadvantaged children.  The Churches have lots of paintings of saints, but are very dark.

The obligatory coffee en route…trays of meat and pots ready for the standard late Greek lunchtime (2-3:00 pm).  We’d have stopped as it looked good, but it was only 12.00 and not sure how long we’f be salivating.  We lunched in Ianonnina, more excellent value – and our first Moussaka.

Drove to Metsovo for night stay … very cold … checked weather – one app said snow overnight… risk averse …then drove an hour back down the mountainside … lake side pitch, not far from the monastery – our first ‘wild camping’ in Greece. After only 2 days, we have a good feeling for Greece – like we experienced in Italy. Roll on the next few months. Oscar likes it too – although he doesn’t know which country he’s in – he’s in HappyK9ville, always! 

IMG 9272

Our morning view of the lake … it’s been filled in by mist. 

IMG 9288

Such stillness.

IMG 9290