07-08/10/2023

Although, I think they are pronounced the same. We had booked an apartment with parking. I’d messaged our height with the roofbox, in case the parking was underground. No problem! Of course, it was underground and of course, we didn’t fit! Resulting in a very steep reverse back up the slope in the heavily laden car! Street parking it was, then. Our host assured us that Albania is safe and car theft is rare. Not what we’d heard, but perhaps all the ageing Mercs were stolen in W Europe, not here! We were more worried about the fact that we had to leave stuff in it. We checked on it periodically. But he was right, and the car and our stuff were safe.

In the apartment, we hooked up to the wifi and watched the England game. And I deployed the washing machine.

A no drive day to wander Shkoder and purchase a sim … £14.75 for a month 10gb. Whilst all the accommodation we’ve booked has wifi, we need it when out and about, as much for Google translate!

We didn’t get far down the main street before we stopped for a boozy salad.  No alcohol in the salad, but lots in us. In the evening, after a nanny nap, we found the other end of the long main street, with lots of stray and over friendly dogs.  And people. So many folk out. Had a rubbish grill meal but chatted to an Australian Slovenian couple who told us of their fave places  for our return trip. Yes, we’ve decided that we really ought to do Albania properly. So after our 10 days in Corfu with the Aged Ps, we come back. Got the month on a sim now!

Leaving Shkoder town, we headed for Rozafa Castle. But the road kept shrinking, and cars just kept coming the other way. We valued our car panels and nerves, so we aborted.

Roads fine to our next stop, but driving not. We driven in Paris during rush hour. Milan, Naples and Sicily. Never ever have we experienced under taking, over taking, and general free for all at roundabouts and junctions. Throw in the cyclists, pedestrians, and the odd cow or donkey who all think they have right of way. The government has imposed very slow speed limits, which everyone ignores. And a LOT of speed bumps.

We arrived, car panels intact, to stop at the Mesi bridge built in 1770, one of the longest Ottoman bridges. Reinforced with additional arches (13 of them), so architecturally significant. Despite the river being dry now, there are huge river bank defences, so there must be a torrential flow after rain.

We aborted the next castle too, as didn’t like the path up. So it wasn’t to be a castles day! According to the guidebook, the Ottomans had destroyed it, so it was probably little to see. And what there would have been, would have been overgrown like the path.

We then headed up to Koman. Another interesting road. I use the term loosely. 32km of bits of tarmac with lots of disintegration and subsidence. A very slow drive but lovely views. Would have been great for wild camping in the van. Overnight was a hotel in Koman and a fab meal at a local restaurant. So much food, it was also lunch the next day. Bonus, as we’d been told only a sandwich shop at ferry port.