26/10/2023

Various stops marked out and a restaurant recommendation for lunch.

Stop 1: The Ruse Mosque, also known as Gjin Aleksi Mosque. Known for the 99 ways of naming Allah written in a circle inside the dome. But it was the mellow stone of the various buildings, restored in 2020, which gave it its charm. I bought a small chocolate bar and a can of juice for £1 from the small shop. Massive smiles and thank yous from the proprietress … they really are suffering financially here.

Stop 2 was aborted. The direct route proved to be a very narrow, bendy, steep, disintegrating concrete track. We can live without seeing the Delvina Islamic Complex.

Stop 3 was a gem. Phoinke was a capital city and controlled the valleys below. Large enough to mint its own coins. Built originally pre C4 BC, it was extended during Roman occupation. Then, during the communist era, it was used as a military base. We must have seen at least 12 bunkers. And gun emplacements. They dug tunnels and installed buildings under and in the ancient buildings! So the ancient sites are OK, but the views were brilliant. And, until the end of our walk around it, we had it to ourselves.

Stop 4 was equally stunning. A Blue Eye! Water from a karst spring bubbles up in a deep pool. Deep blue at the centre and green foliage at the edges, it really does look like the iris of an eye. During the Communist era, the area was reserved for the party elite and mere mortals were banned. An indicator of how lovely a place is.

We had been recommended a taverna here. Whilst we are doing these couple of extra weeks on a budget 😆, it is the 2 year anniversary of James’ heart bypass, so a celebration in order. Setting on a pontoon over the water. Tick. Free tables. Tick. Sun shining. Tick. Have each other. Tick. Bugger …. they are not doing food as its the end of the season. Hungry, we stopped at the first restaurant we came to on the way home. OK, but not special.