Chefchouan

12th October 2024 – Chefchouan

15th October dawned dry after a night’s heavy rain  – so tent de-erecting  (new word?) was good. Each time (only 3 so far) it gets quicker. When K and I got together I was an apprentice for multiple erections – woops! No double entendre intended. She grew up camping. Interesting mountain drive – not for motorhomes! Lots of farming ladies walking laden with branches of trees – K thought one group was a donkey trail, until closer inspection revealed 4 bent over ladies of burden.

Arrived at the campsite in Chefchouan  (phonetic pronunciation Shefshooan). The only suitable tent site with electric would have placed us in the way of running ground water! Manager offered us a hostel – beyond basic  – we declined! Booking.com produced an apartment 300 metres away – 2 bed very comfortable – booked for 4 nights for €100.  Delicious hot and powerful showers!  Worth every penny.  We drove into town and dropped laundry, ours and Brian’s – early supper – K and I had excellent chicken and lemon tangine – Brian had chicken with veg – Zoa was entertained by wild cats – they are everywhere

More Shefsauntering tomorrow Inshallah …..

The main square
I only just managed to pull Corrie away from the bottom tray in time!

16th October – Dressed for Rain

Another bad night. K ended up reading till 3.00am.  Grr.  Mindfulness daily Calm this morning was about appreciating unexpected moments of inactivity and trying not to fill them.
We collected Brian. Drove down to the centre.  Collected the laundry. €12 for what must have been 3 loads. 😊

Did a mapmycity app walk, which took us through a couple of squares, along the fortified walls and to the source of fresh water. People do laundry done at the top. Then, the water is collected in the town as drinking water!  All the walk was through pretty streets. And lots of crafts such as knitting, weaving, painting, pottery etc going on … evidence that not all the handicrafts are shipped in from China. And all the while, it rained. Full body wet weather gear, including wellies. Even the backpack has a cover.

Dream catchers
Complete fluke to capture the canopy and man stripes
The city water source


Easy p.m. back at the apartment… to appreciate the inactivity!

17th October – a short Shef walk

I’d even packed a lunch. Didn’t get a chance to eat it as the walk was so short.  But in the time (embarrassing 1 mile in 1.5 hrs) we could have done 5 on the flat. It was steep. Not helpful to watch a young chap stride up and disappear from view within minutes. Down was worse for me … I slide and my knee started to give out.  Did at least one section on my bum!  Ho hum. Refreshment at the water source!

Washing at the source

In the afternoon, J, Corrie and I had another town wander, an ice cream and a tea. I found a lady selling knitted hats and jackets. I bought 4 big balls of wool from her … €15. Unbelievable value.

Friday 18th – Magic Moment

We had thought  4th night here a waste. We’ve been into the city 3 times now.  But we had a luxuriant slow (as in up at 11.00) start.  I even unrolled my pilates mat and, even better, used it!


Drove to near the Spanish mosque. The path started as steps, then became a scramble. I was thinking I’ll be on my bottom coming down again.  And I’ve only just bloody hand washed the trousers after yesterday!  But once at the top, we spotted the easy route down.

There are unexpected magic moments. And this was one of them. Great views. A cafe with chairs facing the sun. And a lovely traveller singing with her guitar. Not for money, but for sheer joy. We sat. Basking in the sun, and the sound.

The Spanish Mosque up there. Some folk go for sunset

A short drive back into town. J had an oj whilst I went into the castle. Unremarkable at €8, but a tower with views.  My drink was apple juice … I was offered it with oj or milk?!?  Supper on the square people watching. 

Car now 70% loaded. And off along the N coast tomorrow.

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