19/11/24 – Hear Here
Result. James can hear. Well mostly. We’ve gone from the repeat 3 times every time to one repeat every 3 times! On the dot of 9.00 we telephoned and got an appointment with an audiologist for 11.00. We had tried 2 drs previously so knew we needed a specialist. Unfortunately, he didn’t syringe ears – a mix up of my French and the receptionist’s English. But sent us over the road to an ENT consultant. Different syringing system here. Suction then tweezers followed by a camera to check his ear drums with the pic on a big screen. I got to watch. A bit gross but fascinating.
On to Sidi Kaouki. Recommend Camping le Soleil by a few folk. The owner seemed surprised we had a tent, which we managed to erect largely between showers. And the pegs went in due to the day’s rain. Walk on the beach and gin o’clock.

20/11/24 – Sidi Kaouki
A no drive day. Rare. Lazy morning. Walked the beach into town and beyond. Salad lunch. Admin afternoon and back into town for a mixed grilled fish platter. Different vibe in the evening – the centre was full of surf bodies returning hire boards and crap music blaring. Not our scene. OK, so a little jealous of the taut surf bodies!




21/11/24 – Eassouria
Like like like. Hadn’t really expected to as we’ve not fallen in love with this Atlantic coast. Guess we’re spoilt with the fabulous Cretan beaches and coves. But Essouria is not just about waves and surfing.

It has history. It was created in the C7 BC by the Phoenicians. A manufacturing centre for purple dye in C1. C15 saw the Portuguese established a trading and military bridgehead. The walled town was built in 1760 by Mohammed III, so Moroccan. Sitting adjacent to the European designed port and fortifications.



We wandered, bought gifts. Had an ice cream. Balked at totally inflated restaurant prices and then found an inexpensive gem. Liked so much we will stay another night in Sidi Kaouki and drive the 25 mins back in tomorrow.














22/11/24 – Essaouria Take 2
Who said “let them eat cake?” Dickens or Mr Kipling? We had copious cake for brekkie because K had watched “the British bake-off” the night before – the power of tv! Yummy start to the day








Sadly breakfast had been too filling so we didn’t return to the taverna of yesterday. Stop off at Carrefour. K found the pork counter so supper was chicken & lardons salad. First pork since the UK.
23/11/24 – Oualidia
Tent down and on the road in good time – after a few hours we arrived at a very smart apartment in Oualidia. A good walk to the nearby lagoon – a very green area in spite of the water shortage. Stopped for a drink at the local taverna but they didn’t really understand us so we walked on – gin o’clock at the apartment.







24/11/24 – In search of a fish lunch
Up at the crack of dawn – well, 8:30 our dawn… Breakfast and we set off to the lagoon again all along the shore until we came to water – needed to go uphill past a heavily guarded estate – a soldier said it was a royal palace – google said it has been dilapidated for 50 years! One of the palaces that costs $1m per day to keep going?






Lunch at restaurant with lots of local people – always a good recommendation. K had the best fish so far in Morocco – I had excellent pizza – starters – fish salad for K and mine was cheese with tomato and pesto sauce. We rolled uphill to our residence – soporiffically…


Casablanca area tomorrow – but avoiding Rick’s Bar – hugely expensive anecdotally – “Play it again Sam…”