05/08/2025

Caravanserai x 2

We drove along a trade route, stopping at two very different caravanaserai. Interesting to compare with those we saw last year in Morocco. Those were built using mud. These were massive stones. Functions the same – essentially an inn, providing lodging for travellers and merchants.

The Agzikarahan Caravanserai had an impressive portal; theft was prevalent on trade routes. An indoor area with a mostly intact roof … just the dome missing. And an outdoor courtyard with a mosque on legs. <£1 entry.

The Alayhan Caranaserai had an intact, much repaired indoor area and excavated foundations of the bathhouse and mosque. Perhaps aptly, now used to sell tourist tat. We didn’t stop long!

Derinkuyu Underground City

This is a major Capodochia attraction. The guide books advise arriving early. We decided to arrive late, after the coaches. Although, as I’ve said before we are surprised at how few tourists.

After lunch in the car park <£2, we went to sort out a problem with our Turkcell sim not working. According to the app, 9 gB remaining, but no data. Chap in the shop told me to reboot the phone. Which I did, but I’d thrown the unlock code. Nothing for it but to buy a new Sim. Although, not at the Turkcell shop. Despite being a large shop, he couldn’t issue new numbers!!! But Vodafone next door could. It will be interesting to see if Vodafone has better coverage. All this entailed 2 returns to the van, to look for the unlock code and fetch my passport… really should be more organised!

Ice cream reward after … domestic ice cream is different to what we are used to. Less creamy and almost chewy. And this was well away from the tourist places by the entrance to the underground city, so only £3.30 for 2 scoops each.

Derinkuyu Underground City does not allow dogs, so we planned to take turns. I went first to check it out, as J doesn’t ‘do’ enclosed spaces. Just as well, as it is predominantly low tunnels. Lots of them. And in and out the same way, so lots of bottlenecks where you are bent over in semi darkness with nose close to a stranger’s bum! J elected not to put himself through it!

The caves housed 20,000 people over 8 floors. Built from 1900 BC. They rolled big stones across the entrances to protect themselves from marauders. Still working are 50+ ventilation shafts. Even at the lowest point, you could see how much further they descended. All pretty impressive.