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About Clunegapyears

Travelling around Europe with James in our motorhome

Guzelyurt

02/08/2025

We took full advantage of the overnight stop and exercised, showered and did van services.

Some good mountains on the drive over

We parked at the top of Guzelyurt as unsure about the roads. Bonus walk down a little used track full of rock houses. Some had multiple rooms and fine carvings. I just love the idea of carving out a shelf or cupboard every time you need one. New baby. No problem create another room at the back or underneath. Or even over.

The only problem with our path is that the entry to the mosque was fenced off. A small detour to get around the front. J tripped on a loose stone, spraining his ankle, but pushed on.

Into one on the underground cities. Quite a few had internal staircases. People must have had lung problems, as cooking was done on the caves and spotted few chimneys. And risk of rock fall? Some of the dividing walls were quite thin.

We would be quite happy living in one of these! OK, so no running water or power, but I’m sure that could be sorted.

From here we could get to St Gregory’s church. The info board said it was the start of Gregorian music. Fact checked – not according to Wikipedia. It had been Greek Christian until the population exchange in 1923. They put a minaret on top and shoved the iconostasis to one side. It’s now a mosque.

We elected to walk on to 2 rock churches; J’s ankle holding up well. Bit of a scramble to get down one from one. At least it is cool enough to walk about now … just. We were somewhat sticky by the time we got back up to the top of town. Lunch was another Pide and salad in the square.

5km to a park up with the most amazing views.

Holes in Rocks

01/08/2025

Gemusler Monastery is carved around a courtyard and below ground. Only rediscovered in 1963.

Some fine frescoes, some of the best preserved. The frescoes in the church are C7 and C11. The Virgin and Child is said to be the only smiling Mary in existence. Guess she didn’t have a lot to smile about.
Holes in the ground for wine and oil. A kitchen, crypt and refectory. Stairs to an upstairs bedroom … stairs quite lethal as so worn.

Overnight is another picnic area over a small reservoir. The municipality used to charge. The cafe doesn’t look as if it ever opened. Picnic huts need the felting nailed down. A lot of money was spent here once.

Outside the cafe that was never finished. There are toilets and plenty of taps. Overcast. Much much cooler and thunder and rain for 20 mins.
We tried to walk around the small reservoir, but a large shepherd dog frightened Corrie.

Granaries

30/07/2025

We left the Konya central, but empty, car parkingand headed SE.

Fag butts everywhere
The scenery as we approached our destination became rugged

We passed many cave dwellings. But our destination was the Taşkale granaries. C6-7, these 450 caves were hand dug out of the limestone solely to store grain. Apparently for as long as 30 years. Some are 40ft long and are closed off with a juniper door. The wooden pulley systems above each door are starting to decay.

Mosque in the middle

From Taşkale, we drive for 45 mins on a new road. I really need not have checked with a local that the road was suitable for our large camper. Caravan, as Turks call it.

Across the rugged and barren Anatolian Steppe, we passed one hamlet and several concrete trucks. Flat and burnt straw coloured as far as the eye could see.

Our overnight is another picnic area. Worst litter we have seen. Almost as bad as parts of Albania. But first lot of trees, poplars, at the head of a reservoir.

Whirling Dervish

Two reasons to come to Konya.

  1. Laundry. Needed bedding and towels washed now my twin tub washing part on the blink. A couple of pairs of shorts and tops added to the bag … £23 so not cheap. But done. And collected the same day.
  2. Whirling Dervish. Twirling to mostly reed pipe music. Their white skirts flare out and hands are raised to the sky. It’s a ritual meditative dance in a trance to bring you closer to God. Rumi started the Mevlana order of Islam following BC his poetry about love and forgiveness.

Whirling Dervish. Pix courtesy of National Geographic

We visited Rumi’s museum / mausoleum. It is a pilgrimage site for Sufis Muslims. Too hot to traipse to numerous mosques and a park.

We wanted to visit a show in the evening. €25 pp was off putting but nowhere for Corrie to go, as even 8 pm too hot to leave her in the van. So we watched the ritual dance on YouTube and were pleased to have saved €50!!!
Spent a little on a magnificent cake instead!!!

Mevlana Museum rooftops.

Where are all the Tourists?

Egirdir

28/07/25

James scribing – for a change! Lake Burdur was our place of wild camping last night – well not at the lake – too hot and no shade – so a nearby forest are with lots of shade. We had eaten at the lake – just relaxing wine at the site…

Morning up earlyish – sadly lots of rubbish left by the people barbecuing last night. K did some litter picking – she did lots of clothes washing – our old twin tub half working (spinner only) but showing its age – it doesn’t owe us anything. Before leaving, we completed the Motorhomers ideal – fresh water, empty wc and empty grey waste! We also showered ourselves… On the road continuing our travels in Turkey’s Lake District – nothing like Cumbria but quite impressive – clouds in the sky for a change! It must not rain – as our windscreen wipers are bankjaxed! You Irish will know this word…

Several wild camping sites passed – not proper access – too steep. Eventually settled on the lakeside near Egirdir – lovely. Walked Corrie – no wild dogs or cats – ice cream and ‘shiy’ – Turkish tea…

No wine today maybe tomorrow… Early start as we will visit a Fiat garage to repair our windscreen wipers. Not “Fix it again tomorrow” but Fiat Italia Automobile Torino“ – hopefully….

Finally mountains
Our pitch, some shade and strong winds hitting Jez’s derrière.
Cay and ice cream, of course.

Isparta and Beysehir

29/07

For our reader(s) – a question? On our short travels in Turkey we’ve seen a chain of shops – “Arcelik”! Any ideas (apart from the obvious)? Myself and K are mystified! Answers on a postcard – to “Jez” Turkey. The winner will have lots of “Liks” – via Corrie!

This morning – up and at em at almost dawn – 7:00 am – brekkie, dog walk – and off to Isparta town to the Fiat garage “Fix it ASAP thanks”. They did – in 20 minutes – with help from Google Translate – a 4 Euro charge! Mile grazi!

Back to the lakes on very quiet highways. Two hours brought us to Beysehir and a lovely lakefront spot for the night. Lunch Al fresco – a windy walk – iced tea, orange juice and ice cream! Now for some warmish wine and chilling. “Tesiculer” – maybe thanks in Turkish?

Egirdir spit where we spent last night
Beysehir lake picnic spot
Love the sign, it translates as “Tombs are not places for making wishes. Let’s not believe in superstitions and throw money. Put your donations into the aid fund!