About Clunegapyears

Travelling around Europe with James in our motorhome. And now solo, with friends

317- 318: The Best Museum Ever

Posted on March 4, 2016 by Clunegapyears

317 – Wednesday 2nd March 2016: Sunny but Jobs

Terracina free overnight parking was quiet – about 7 vans dispersed in a large car park at the port/marina. Our next door neighbour – a Serbian ‘traveller’, seemed very interested in our van – we thought he was about to invite himself in…. We both ran in the morning along the very pleasant seaside route. Then suitably brekkied, the good ship Chard allowed Bradge to jointly navigate towards Latina town – destination – a museum much recommended by TripAdvisor – but not featured in any of our guide books. Arrived, services replenished and parked alone in a nicely shaded pitch – no cost for overnighting. K mustered the troops (me!) – and we set to with gusto (who is this Gusto ? He seems to feature in ‘jobs’ days…). Polishing, kitchen and bathroom cleaning (K) with me doing outsides, some maintenance bits – and hoovering (hovering?). Suitably righteous-feeling, we treated ourselves to a glass of Marsala….. K had been to Lidl en route – litre of Marsala – Euro3.49 ! It seemingly beckoned to her from the supermarket shelf – and she couldn’t have a lone bottle on our bar…. so purchased 3! Evening (to the sound of peacocks and a loud donkey !) – we watched “Bullitt” – Steve McQueen – from 1968…

318 – Thursday 3rd March 2016:

Someone had lots of zzzzs overnight – I did a 4k run in rather cold and windy weather – balmy compared to a UK March.

To the museum – nice price reduction for moi as a senior – and then a real treat! We knew TripAdvisor had spoken well of the place but we are wowed! It would take a long time to describe all the areas (and the reader might fall asleep with my verbal wanderings) – but I will try to give the headlines. It was arranged in 14 very large sheds or hangars including the cafe divided into agriculture/local life – and WW2. Note to the reader – the area is called the Pontine Plains – flooded over centuries and various attempts were made over hundreds of years to drain/convert it to useful land. Malaria was a big problem – mosquitoes liked the conditions. Mussolini solved the problem with his engineers (large hydraulic schemes, etc) – and even built new towns to house workers who were ‘encouraged’ to migrate from northern Italy.

The first shed contained toys from the past – I drooled over the aircraft, vehicles, models of earthmoving equipment – I noted 3 Caterpillar models that I have at home in my mini collection (partly in need of repair) – a fork lift, grader and roller/scarifier (Edward will know)… Who remembers having a Donkey Kong ? I was champion of my family in the 70s… A scale model of the Titanic, Graf Spee, massed ranks of soldiers…. Next sheds, life in the area, poverty, the various attempts at reclamation – division into 20 hectare farms… After a light lunch at the cafe, we realised we could run out of time – closing time at 6:00 pm…. decision made to move on to the WW2 section. I have never seen such a collection of genuine military equipment in pristine condition, gleaming with anti corrosion paint. It started with the deportation of ’undesirables’ into camps in Italy although initially, they were spared the atrocities of Nazi camps. Over the next few hours, we learned of the battles in North Africa, Egypt, Sicily Allied landings – and the circumstances whereby Italy changed sides in 1943 – having deposed Mussolini, assured Germany of their continuing support – and then secretly signing an armistice with the Allies and declaring war with Germany – all in one month. This led to Italians fighting Italians as some joined the Germans and others fought with the Allies. The battle for Monte Cassino we knew about having been there in the past week – wanton bombing (by the Allies) and destruction of the hilltop monastery – for no gain on either side. The Polish troops (previous post) emerged with great honour.

This museum deserves much more publicity and we strongly recommend it to anyone interested in the history of an important area – and the special perspective of Italian involvement in WW2. A real find! We ran out of time and didn’t visit all the sheds – tomorrow…?

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A real Caterpillar tractor – Cat or Kat envy?

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One section was a station platform with animal carriages into which were herded the “undesirables”. An explanations of the coloured triangles … political prisoner, gay etc.

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This tank featured in ‘An English Patient’.

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Every room in each of the sheds housed ‘real ‘scenes with sound effects.

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The scene of the assault on Montecassio Abbey.

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The Abbey taken, but by now as rubble.

314 -316: Romans, Monasteries and Rain

Posted on March 1, 2016 by Clunegapyears

314 – Sunday 28th February 2016: Montecassino Abbey and WWII

What a hill! Best part of a km down only to run back up again! Water on the pitch so a little more hand washing. We drove the Z bends up to the Abbey and paid the pricey sum of EUR8 to park. The attendant was quick to point out that we were allowed to stay over night, but we were rather attached to our parking towards the bottom of the hill … also the weather forecast threaten rain and winds so the top of a mountain is not thus most desirable.

The Abbey itself is HUGE. Really IMMENSE. It is another pilgrimage site as it is the mother Church of the Benedictine Order. St Benedict founded it in 529 and here wrote the ‘Rule’; these are the principles of prayer, study and labour for the West European monastic code. The hand written parchment is on display in the Museum. The Monastery became a centre learning and one of the richest by the 11th century. The opulence and wealth was extremely evident. The Museum was the highlight for us both.

During WWII the Monastery was supposed to be exempt from use by either side. However, we saw film footage of the German forces assisting the Monks in packing up their treasures … not sure if some made their way to Berlin? The Allies struggled to move North and eventually bombed the Monastery, which the Germans held. Well, that’s one version. Another is that the Germans were below the Monastery and the Allies thought they were in it, so started the bombing. The fatalities for the 4 major battles were staggering. More than 55,000 soldiers on both sides, although most were Allied Forces, and 10,000 civilians. There are several military cemeteries around the town, we spotted the English and German from up the mountain. The Polish cemetery was a short walk from the Monastery. More than 1000 Polish were buried here when is was built very soon after the war. There was an excellent multi-lingual information centre at the entrance. The gravestones gave the usual information of name, DOB and Date of Death, but also which prison of war camp in Poland or Russia they had been interned in, until Russia changed sides and released them. Many of the survivors never made it back home as Poland became part of the USSR.

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The Abbey has had to be rebuilt 4 times – no wonder the word Peace was everywhere.

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I don’t know if it was due to the relative recentness of the WWII rebuild or the sense of wealth, but it really had the feel of a 5* Hotel complex. And amazing views of the hills.

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The Museum was very worth the EUR5 entry. This travel scripture was no bigger that a thumbnail – no wonder it came with its own magnifying case.

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As well as a superb display of old literature, there were finely stitched garments and intricate ivory and wooden boxes etc.

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The cathedral left K cold … too much 1800’s style bright marble. And I have a problem with such ostentation with vows of poverty etc.

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The crypt had some of the original stone work.

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Looking back at the Monastery from the Polish War Memorial. A very still and moving place.

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There is actually quite a lot of snow on the distant peaks.

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Selfie … not done one for a while.

Supper was haute cuisine … bangers, mash and beans … the baked beans being a parting gift from Frances when they left Naples. Yum yum ….

315 – Friday 29th February 2016: Leaping Gaeta

A leap year. I asked J to marry me … actually if he would have, had we not already been married. He assured me that despite being with me 24/7 for 315 days, he would have said yes!!! A politic man!

Heavy rain this morning so we refrained from tackling the hill with a morning run. A short drive down to the coast and along to Gaeta. The town sits on a rocky headland, which splits the old town from the new. We set off for a wander, which turned into a 3 hour walk. Along the front passing the Duomo’s bell tower and up through the old town onto Monte Orlando. We followed the Mountain Park’s signs for the Mausoleum of ???, a 2nd century Roman, which was right at the top. Great views of both sides of the headland. Down towards the beach and then through the town. The mountain was mostly mixed woodland, a lot of Holm Oak and it was really lovely to hear so much bird song.

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The old town.

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Looking back at the peaks inland.

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Romanesque bell tower of the Duomo, with coloured tiles. The cathedral looked to have been rebuilt and we did not go in.

316 – Tuesday 1st March 2016: Terracina

Having rested from running yesterday, we both did a 6km run along the sandy front … J always puts in a little more as he doubles back to check on me or the route, and he is a lot faster. Yet when we compared calories burned, I was up on him by about 90 … I reckon it is because I am running longer, being much slower! Bonus!

Less than an hour later we arrived at Terracina – a popular seaside resort … in the summer!!! The whole of this coast line offers holiday village after camping village, after holiday bungalows … non stop. We asked ourselves, again, where do all the summer visitors come from given so much of Italy’s coast is resort after resort.

An Italian motorhomer, we met near Capua, whom we spoke to in pigeon English / Italian and then in French had been headed this way last weekend. He told us that there were usually 100 or so Italian vans there most weekends. Today we are one of 8. And both J and I having failed to master the car parking ticket machine, as it kept spewing our Euros back out at us, we asked a German couple (yes, my pigeon German came into play) about how to pay … only to be formed that weekdays it is free! Yippee – EUR12 back into our pockets. We celebrated with coffee and cake!

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Terracina is overshadowed by the 1BC Temple of Jove Anxur … we opted not to walk up!

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Lions guarding the entrance to the old town … we watched all the small cars do a 3 point turn here and comtemplated Chardonnay up here … NOT!

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We’ve seen countless stray cats in the last few days … on Gaeta’s Monte Orlando we must have seen at least 20. Today the tabby was seeing off the black … food on the step!

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More Roman remains … every Italian town has them

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The WWII bombings did some good work here … a Roman arch was left standing as the buildings covering it collapsed …. building techniques gone forwards then! Here you can see part of the Aprian Way that was uncovered. We wondered how all the carts passed each other as it is so narrow.

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On the left is tower of a fortification and in the middle is the Duomo which was built on the site of a Roman Temple … the steps up are original. A funeral taking place, so we went for coffee as the rain started coming down heavily again.

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And it did not stop coming down … a pukka downpour, so we headed straight back to Chardonnay for a change of clothes and the heating. I always receive a Christmas stocking from the Aged P’s, which is particularly fascinating as it reflects their year’s world travels …. the Vin Chaud hit the spot.

311 – 313: Mothers and Model Village

Posted on February 27, 2016 by Clunegapyears

311 – Thursday 25th February 2016: Capua (and unusual nocturnals…)

Morning at the excellent (if a little expensive) Caserta Sosta saw us each running 4 kms on a good path/cycle track. Brekkied, we sorted out the van services and put ‘Bradge’ (it saves typing Brad and Madge – as I just did!) to the onerous task of taking us all of 5 kms to the town of Belvedere San Leucio – home of silk production – and scene of an interesting socio-political experiment. In the 18th century, Ferdinand II of Borbon decided to establish a new town called – you guessed it – “Ferdinandopoli” – a humble man, obviously. Workers were paid according to the amount they worked – not just the hours – divorce was outlawed – and a form of socialism would prevail. Alas, it was never finished as the Borbons were overthrown. But much of the ‘new’ town survives – with neat terraces of houses – probably for the relatively wealthy in the area – socio-capitalism? The main Palazzo was closed but a kind staff member let us tour the grounds and take photos. We visited the Piazza del Seta (silk museum/shop) where K made a modest purchase – beautiful silkware on display.

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Model houses

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The factory and museum complex

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View from the top … it might be UNESCO, but that does not stop it being overgrown!

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Coffee stop. Valentine’s day may be over but the sentiment remains.

En route to Capula, K realised we were still in Buffalo Mozzarella country. This is not a place where Bison sit eating nice cheese – but the home of the finest Mozzarella made from buffalo milk, as against that of cow. K spotted a factory shop and alighted from the van (after it had stopped, fortunately) – and went Buffalo hunting – she’s a dead shot with a fistful of Euros, rarely missing the target! True enough, my lovely Annie Oakley lady returned with the spoils – Buffalo Mozzarella cheese, Buffalo burgers and Buffalo steaks ! How many times can I get the word Buffalo into one sentence ? All for a handful of Euros…

We commenced our perambulations (anyone remember Silver Cross prams?) to Capua– nice streets – a twice rebuilt Roman bridge (courtesy of WWII bombings) – and the Museo Campano. We were the only visitors in the afternoon – and we had three members of staff looking after us! Much of Roman, Greek and a little of Egyptian artefacts – but the highlight was a display of Madres – ancient (BC) busts of mothers holding babies wrapped as mummified … ex voto shrines to the Goddess of Fertility. When we got to a mother holding 12 babies, we speculated that this may have been the number of children lost, born, or the number wished for? Very impressive and unusual. On leaving the Museum and thanking the staff, we were treated to a cup of coffee !

Roman bridge and Frederick Towers … used to have massive statues atop.

New cathedral (WWII again)

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Prolific and our sympathy!

A rather ‘cheeky’ Attic vase.

K cooked one of the Buffalo steaks – a bit chewy and not as nice as beef – but will go nicely in a casserole…

Our overnight location in Santa Marie Capua is a proper ‘Sosta Communale’ – a large parking area nicely paved with grass tiled blocks (discourages young folk doing car wheelies) – special section for motorhomes – all services available – why can’t we have these in UK? As the evening drew on (we watched an excellent episode of Inspector Morse), the courting couples started to arrive – no nuisance to us, quite discrete – except….. I went out for a late evening discrete pee – and noticed a car parked quite near – under a lighting column – with a couple engaged in full-on ‘flagrante dilecto’! And another car nearby watching!!! The reader doesn’t need much Latin to realise they were not hiding their lights (or much else) under a bushel ! They stuck to their guns…..doggedly !

312 – Friday 26th February 2016: Sitting Still

Friday – rest day…. leisurely awakening – after a most spectacular electric storm between 1:00 and 2:30 am – with heavy rain. Your editor and sub-editor were snug and warm throughout…

We ran – separately – K did more difficult Pilates, followed by hand washing – utilising the excellent service facilities. Then Chardonnay was rendered replete with her services – isn’t that posh for saying we emptied the toilet? Bum slogging – sorry, some blogging, was appropriate to get the reader up to date. Lunch – one of K’s mouthwatering soups – then a little more exploration of the citta – very busy – in the town square, men (only) played boules or petanque Italian style – where are all the ladies ? The obligatory coffee and small cake – at a huge cost of Euro 3.20 !

Our overnight spot came alive with veg, meat et al sellers in the early evening – but it was all pre-ordered only – otherwise Ms Oakley would have reached for the Eurowallet.

The amphitheatre – apparently the third largest in Italy … we both ran around here and then walked it later. Volcanic hills in the distance.

313 Saturday 27th February 2016 – Coastal Route to Montecassino

A longer run for us both … J for 5km and K only 4, but followed by Pilates (I’ve got quite used to the strange looks I get as my mat comes out!). A leisurely breaky and more services … and we set off for the coast.

Campagne is the home of Mozzarella di Buffa DOP and we saw a lot of manufacturers and shops along the roadside. But where are the Buffalo that supply the milk???? I had read an online report that stated that many are imprisoned indoors, but we eventually saw a number of herds. You could not say that they could roam at will or that they had a lot of space; more like cow shed and pens.

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Pix from the internet, but you get the idea.

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We also did a small shop and bought a bottle of a local liqueur… Alberti Strega – it comes from Benevento nearby and one has to try these things!!!

The coast is pretty dire … all built up and holiday resorts. No way did we fancy trying to find somewhere to stop so we headed on for Plan B – Montecassino a bit inland. We arrived at the Parking (with motorhome services – we are so spoilt after the general lack of them in Sicily) up a tight single track with sharp bends …. several gasps later we’d parked. The series of stupid things are … J had alighted and walked over to check the road up and K had spotted another route up to the parking on Madge…. but no, we’d blindly followed Bradge’s instructions!

A late lunch and then we walked down the hill (the route we should have taken to get here) to the town, just for a wander.

309 – 310: Stinking Crater and Stinking Rich

Posted on February 26, 2016 by Clunegapyears

309 – Tuesday 23rd February 2016: A Steaming Stinking Crater

Happy Birthday Louis … not yesterday nor tomorrow, but today!

A sad and fond farewell from Naples – we’re really could not justify staying longer. The Sulfartic Crater – oops, Sofatara Crater was smelly and very warm in places – 160 c water temp – K thought about bringing our walls to smash – sorry smalls to wash – but we don’t really want socks that would burn and defoliate our legs….. Impressive place but an hour was sufficient. In keeping with Brad the Sat Nav … it moves! Up and down. Lots of sinking churches and cracked buildings. It’s called Bradyseism – official!

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The above photos show me (J) and Chardonnay practising our latest dance routine! It’s called “Strictly” – novel, eh? In a very tight space, I say to Chard – “suck your tummy in, girl and hold your breath”… It works! Once through, she can breathe – and dance around as much as she likes – especially around potholes. It could be a new TV show – “Prickly Some Prancing”! BBC…? Brucie?

First we decided to visit a port … far too busy and pay metres everywhere. Secondly a lake – simple, you say? Find a lake and drive there… We don’t do simply (facile) ….. down a narrow street – a narrower street – has the reader detected that we’ve been here before ? Road blocked and no obvious place to turn. Lots of help in fluent Italian from locals and Chard once again sucked in her tummy (should we buy a motorhome whalebone corset?) – reversed in through a (narrow?) gate – and abandoned the Lago search. All sails set – off to a free overnight parking near Deserta – no, James – Caserta ! The correct order in Italian cuisine – its aunty patsy, then primocaruso, then secondosomething, then deserta – then somnovinoque…zzzz

310 – 24th February 2016: Caserta Royal Palace

The parking was good – quiet and peaceful. K was going to run at dawn – but Dawn said otherwise…..like, stay in bed ! But she did ‘Pilates of the Caribbean’ at about 0900 hours – watched by the local young ladies on their power walks. Why were they not watching me? Munching cereal and drinking carrot juice – just as exciting…

We drove to a pukka sosta at Caserta and parted with EUR15 to park till the morrow. Bicycles launched – Caserta Palace in our sights. After several tours of the town, we joined a long queue for cycle tourists biglietti – tickets to the reader… a long time later, we entered the Palace Park. The entire complex is billed as a smaller Versailles – very true – and not so small either ! The park and English Gardens are beautiful if a bit neglected at this time of year, but well worth a visit (on bikes – lots of ground to cover uphill and down.

Having sold tickets to cyclists, there are no places to park bikes while touring the house!!! Back to town to seek a bike parking place – we spotted something! It was a bar – that sold wine! Now then – try locking your bike to a glass of red wine – you may fail – and incur the wrath of the bar owner…. Once refreshed, we found the pike bark – bike park ! It was good wine ! The house was vast, full of frescoes, portraits of Charles II, sculptures, etc. Not immensely moving. The portrait we would really like to have seen but was missing – painted by Michaelangelo (I made that up) was on the side of the royal commode!

Not Versailles or Hampton Court – but extremely impressive in it’s scope – and gardens….

Back by varicose routes – to the excellent Sosta for the night – gated and quiet – hush…..

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Sadly nearly all of the exterior was shrouded due – and men were actually lavorio in corso … not like in Naples, where scaffolding was rusting and wilting. Work started in 1752 after Charles of Bourbon wanted to compete in the palace stakes with Versailles. A few facts … The facade is 250m. 1200 rooms. 1790 windows. 34 staircases.

The main attraction of the grounds is the English Garden – not sure how many of the species are UK winter hardy!? However, it was probably the highlight, with a lot of variety and some Magnolia and Camellias in bloom. K loved the tree shapes ….

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The formal gardens comprise a 3+km stretch of water and cascades. Water was diverted from miles away to feed the garden waterworks.

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The grey blob on the horizon is the house … it was quite a serious steady 3 km bike climb to the top!

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Diana and her nymphs bathing… K saw Darcey Bustle perform this part at the ENO in Delibes’ Sylvia with Mutt some years ago :).

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Peeping Tom … comeuppance …. turned into a Stag and his own dogs attracted him!

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Part of the 3 km series of cascades. Lots of carp in the pools. The ponds were actually used for fish for the Palace.

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Could be Spain … Tapas with wine.

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The Palace felt really unlived in. Not a patch on most National Trust properties. However, you did get the sense of ‘immense’ and how much wealth the Bourbons had. Very little is on view to the public.

301 – 308 : A Flying Trip Home, Scultures & Tunnels

Posted on February 22, 2016 by Clunegapyears

301 – Monday 15th February 2016: Troia to Naples

We had a wander around Troia after a run …. a long hill down and an even longer hill back up. A fairly ordinary small town, but THE most amazing rose window on the Duomo. We popped into the TIC to say thank you to Troia for the excellent free motorhome parking and were rewarded by massive grins and then they pressed a leaflet about Troia on us. As we thought, nothing here really other than the Rose window.

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Troia Cathedral – Elegant with green marble touches.

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The fantastical Rose Window.

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Mind altering drugs surely?

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Dragons on the original bronze doors.

I have been desperate to cook lamb … we‘ve not had any since we left over 301 days ago! We found the butcher and asked … no lamb. In fact not much of anything really … yes two cuts of pork and beef, whole chickens and one type of sausage. We bought sausages and I put them in the slow cooker to cook as we drove to Napoli. We were to meet up with Frances and Edward, who we met several times in Sicily – they are heading back home faster than us and we knew they would overtake us at some point.

The scenery was pretty coming across rolling hills and patchwork emerald fields … the guide book describes the hill down from Troia as a crinoline.

One on the motorway, we should a been spat out about 100m from the entrance to the Spartacus Campsite … however a minor navigational error / interpretation and we ended up coming through some miles of normal streets. When we were in Naples at the end of October, we had thought that the driving was atrocious and really dangerous. But that was before the best part of three months in Sicily … the driving left us completely unshaken. Although some of the deep potholes shook up all our cupboards!

At the campsite we were recognised by Rosa on reception and we installed ourselves in the same pitch. The Italian sausage casserole finished off and the aubergine parmigiana completed and F and E joined us for supper. it MUST have been a good night … nearly 5 bottles of wine, half a bottle of Marsala and three quarters a bottle of Sambucca! I know I passed out rather than went to sleep.

302 – Tuesday 16th February 2016: A few chores

We stayed on the campsite other than to walk to the train station to buy tickets and check the times and then onto the super market to buy a large number of Milka chocolate bars for Munchkin … special request. Two loads of laundry and J suffered his most unpopular job …. dying my hair. It must have sparked something as we spotted a French couple of ladies hair dying later on. I would have offered J’s expert services, but …

303 Wednesday 17th February 2016: K Home to Munchkin

Is it a work day? Feels like it. Alarm set for 6.00 a.m.! Train into Naples and AliBus to the airport. We are old hands at it and knew the route.

I was slightly concerned on arrival at Gatwick to see the snow plough all ready.

Maddy picked me up from the train station … not the one I intended getting off at though! I was chatting to a chap with a brace of Springer Spaniels (I used to have my own brace of liver and white Springers) …. and only realised my mistake when M rang me and asked where the xxxx was I? A bit of food shopping for supper and for some items I can’t seem to buy in Italy, such as cuppasoup, mixed herbs, coriander leaf, cream of coconut and Bert’s Bees lip salve.

We installed ourselves at my Aged P’s house … they are in South Africa, but trusted it to us! I had my emailed and printed instructions …. Mutt was not leaving anything to chance! Alarm, water on, heating controls. As the house had been empty for a few weeks, it was perishing. M and I snuggled on the sofa, wrapped in a duvet and watched a film. After supper, M went off to a ‘gathering’ and I did some chores and had a luxurious bath …. Mutt, I forgot to tell you I found your Radox! Our house in Bristol has a shoe box for a bath so I always showered there, and other than a couple of baths last August in a hotel in Tuscany, I reckon this was the first bath in about 4 years! Bloody marvellous, with a bottle of red and Handel’s Water Music playing.

Just before I went to bed I collected everything together I would need for tomorrow and found a hand written note from Dad. He had laid the fireplace all ready for us to light … this would have warmed the house up in no time! If only!!!

304 – Thursday 18th February 2016: Jobs and Sculptures

I collected a parcel from Yodel in Farnborough and popped in to see Michelle, an old school friend – she was in Geneva, but Craig was at home and gave me a coffee … they also have a beautiful brace of Springers :). B&Q for fuses as we blew a couple trying to get our electric heater working using a two to three pin convertor. Rang Maddy and she met me at the Aged P’s house … having just arisen! After lunch we dropped one of my grandmother’s ring’s off to be repaired … it will be part of Maddy’s 18th birthday gift.

We then went to tripAdvisor’s top Farnham attraction… the Sculpture Park. About 1000 sculptures crammed in along a walk around two small lakes. I was given a catalogue, so had I been interested, I could have purchased any. They ranged from the bad … a stack of plastic breadbaskets, to some really creative pieces. Maddy is doing photography A Level and saw the potential here for her project.

Maddy rutting with some stags!

Yes, this really is a statue of someone peeing …. I brought home a Shewee …. will trial it and let you know … should save crouching!

Maddy’s new best friend.

A nano rest on one of the exhibits!

A large piece, one of my favourites, but M thought the heads looked like black heads!

Coffee with the Bakers and their two Spaniels, Cockers this time. Louis’ espresso is nearly at Italian standards and Zozo, you still have half an inch to go till you’re as tall as I! A curry delivered … I’d not had a pukka curry for over 2 years … absolutely fantastic! And another bath (with Radox)!

305 – Friday 19th February 2016: Napoli and more Scultpures

An early pick up at 5.00 a.m. Maddy drove home in her dressing gown and slippers … wonder if she was going to return to bed?!? J met me in the centre of Naples with another rucksack so he could take some of the weight from mine … what a lovely thinking man! We lunched on Pizza … really good and then went to the Archaeological Museum which contains most of the statues, mosaics and frescos removed from Pompeii and Herculaneum. The Farnese Collection is here, which includes some stunning works. Unfortunately about 6 of the galleries were closed and there seemed to be a lot of empty rooms. Given how much ‘stuff’ they must have stashed, this is a bit sad.

J had read reviews that commented on the dust on the sculptures and it was really noticeable on the dark stone, which it made look grey 😦

Possibly the most stunning part of the collection … the Farnese Bull.

A series of rooms were devoted to the Hellenistic Period … essentially Roman pornography. Lots of very graphic and fanciful images. This statue was very fine workmanship, not the content!

306 – Saturday 20th February 2016: Tunnelling!

Up and at ‘em. We’d booked a tour with Napolisotterranea of the Greek cisterns which had been used to supply Napoli houses right up till the 1800s and then used as air raid shelters during WW2. The tour was in English and being the only English speakers, we had the guide to ourselves. It is not for the unfit of claustrophobic … 40 metres down (but you do exit only 16 metres up :)) and you have to wiggle sideways, and sometimes crouched down, between the cisterns along the water feeder tunnels.

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The stairs were built around the well… this was 40 metres down

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WWII graffitti on the Greek plaster work to make the cisterns water tight.

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A bit of a tight squeeze … the guide admitted he does have to tell some tourists that the visit is not for them and one German chap did get stuck! Something to do with his ‘arse’.

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The toilets were always near the entrances as people tended to need to relieve them selves – relief at making it to the air raid shelter. Yes, we asked what happened to the human waste … crack in the tufa and it being absorbent meant it made its way out to sea.

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A well earned glass (or two) after those tunnels!

After lunch did another set of water tunnels, but no tight passages. The Galleria Bourbonica also includes the 430 metre straight tunnel that was built in 1853 for Ferdinand II of Bourbon, who concerned about the outbreak of rebellion, asked for an escape route from his palace to the nearby barracks. After the war, the tunnels were used as a dump for impounded motorbikes and cars … still there, rusting away. Two similar but different visits.

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Frances and Edward were still on the same campsite but leaving tomorrow, so they come over for supper and just a little wine!

307 – Sunday 21st February 2016: Sunday a Day of Rest (and Chores)

A late start. A run. Waving off Frances and Edward. Washing, shopping and other jobs. A down day – we need one occasionally.

308 – Monday 22nd February 2016 – The best of Naples Sculptures

Run – long for J. I did a short run and a new Pilates class (downloaded on campsite wifi), but decided that as the instructor lifted her legs and torso back over her head with superb control that perhaps this one is a tad advanced for me!

The main aim was to visit the Capella Sansevero (also known as Chapel of Santa Maria della Pietà). Its origin dates to 1590 when John Francesco di Sangro after recovering from a serious illness, had a private chapel built in what were then the gardens of the nearby Sansevero family residence. The building was converted into a family burial chapel in 1613. It includesMasonic symbols in its construction and until 1888 a passageway connected the Sansevero palace with the chapel. Photography was not allowed, so these pix are from the internet. We were so awed by some of the sculptures we went round twice.

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The Veiled Christ in the middle with the Virtues around the chapel.

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This was disillusion … could not quite see it but the sculpture was stunning.

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Modesty, I do understand … the veiling was the inspiration for the Veiled Christ below. We both thought this was possibly one of the best statues we’ve ever seen.

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And this is “Sweetness of the Marital Yoke” – Quotation ….’The marble group portrays a fulsome-bellied woman holding a feathered yoke representing sweet obedience, and in her right hand she holds up two flaming hearts (deep mutual love). At her feet a winged putto plays with a pelican, emblem of charity. In mediaeval iconography, in fact, the pelican which pierces its own breast to nurse its young represents the sacrifice of Christ on the cross.’ Not sure J or I would describe the Joys of Marriage in such a way!

Slightly macabre – in the basement are a male and female skeletons with what looks like all the arteries and veins. Originally it was believed that the creator injected a metal forming substance into the circulatory system, but now it is believed that he created it from beeswax, iron wire and silk.

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And thus concludes our second extended stay in Naples. We have really fallen for the city. We love the noise, the business and the chaos. It is earthy and very real.

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

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