Driving Days in Search of Oil

11/09/25025

It was always going to be a long driving day. But it was made longer than planned. We intended to stop in Samsun to sort renewal on our sim. We had not factored in:

  • how huge Samsun was. Half an hour of unpleasant urban sprawl till we stopped. And still not near the centre. At times an 8 lane highway. When we turned off to park, drivers had no sense of the space we need. They dash into a gap and wonder why all the traffic is grid locked.
  • not one of my dodgy roads, a dual carriageway, but a mini bus sent what must’ve been a brick up to make contact with our windscreen. The resulting star shape would’ve looked good on a Christmas tree. Once we found a repair place, parking was non existent, so we abused the space in a petrol station. Yes they could fix. 2000 tl. After J’s initial miscalculation of £500, we agreed at £40. But not here. Mustapha would show us. This is Must-ava-fag. He reeked of smoke. He covered his eyes with mock fear as I, a mere woman, sat down to drive. He asked when we got the chip. ‘This morning, a lovely Turkish stone’ I replied with G Translate. He did the repair and said that since we had the damage from a Tr stone, we would discount to £28. A nice encounter, despite his wiff!

We are in Hazelnut territory. They are left sun drying along roads, in car parks …

We drove through Fatsa (great name) and, no kidding, at least a km each side of the road of dealer upon dealer of mini busses and minivans. Mostly white, of course!

Tonight we are parked up at the start of a coastal bulge, which we were recommended to drive. A pretty fishing village and small beach. Not touristy and a perfect antidote to a longer day than expected.

We were very politely asked to move … apparently a market will start being set up from 5.00 am … we’d be stuck all day.

In Search of Oil

12/09/25

We wandered the market. Just as well we had moved, it was large and we’d have been stuck the far end. I bought a long sleeved T for under £3, as I’m conscious that I’ve not enough warm clothes with me. And, oh my, bags of wonderful super fresh produce. The peaches now seem past their best. But the figs! I bought 10 for under a £1.

We continued around the bulge in the coastline. Still pretty but reckon where we stayed last night at one of the best bits. We stopped at the point … a light house and a Greek church built in the 1880s. Jason stopped here after gaining the fleece, so it’s called Jason Cape.

Cape Jason

Afterwards, the road is quite dull. Dual carriageway and sprawling urbanisation. We had wanted to stop in Ordu to ascend to views by cable car. We could spot the cable car, but not anywhere to park.

Just to remind us we are in hazelnut territory

We stopped at Fiat Professional just past Ordu to ask if they could do an oil change. Although, the oil was changed at the service in Jan, it is halfway down the dipstick and quite black. Not treacle yet, but we’ve a lot of km still to do. We were too big, so they suggested their sister company. Yes they would be working tomorrow, Saturday. So we drove further than planned onto near Trabzon. En route, I found my eyes dropping, so had to pull over for a 10 min Power Nap. That is the first time I’ve had to do that this trip.

I found a P4N 2 mins away from the Fiat garage. Very built up area, but by the beach. Too many dogs, so C and I walked the streets, with the water pistol. I had to shoot 2 dogs. Weirdly a sawmill amongst the apartment blocks.

View of the beach that we didn’t walk on due to dogs and huge Trabzon

J and I have been on holiday mood, drinking every night. So we finished all the booze in Jez last night. Including the winery bottle I had been saving to take to the Aged Ps. Jez is now dry and will we be dry for a whole week!!!

Fast back to Christmas

17/12/2024 – 06.01.2025

About a week before the family arrived in Marrakesh, James received a notification of his hospital audiology appointment on 21st December. As he’d been waiting since the beginning of July for this appointment, we decided to push fast back to Blighty.

We left the Riad about 11.30 and drove straight to Tangier Med port, arriving at 6 p.m. Exchanged our ticket for a boarding pass for the 11.00 p.m. sailing to Algeciras. Plenty of time to give Corrie a good beach walk and for us to have a good meal out.

Fortunately we gave ourselves plenty of time to get through customs, passport control etc. Our car was put under a scanner, just as it had on arriving in Morocco. Guess they’re checking for illegals. Sniffer dog in at all the doors too. Think the whole process was about an hour and a half and the port wasn’t busy!

We had expected to have to show Corrie’s rabies titer test cert and her Spanish port documentation. All purchased at several hundred Euros. But just waved through. I wondered if the lack of officialdom was due to it being the middle of the night. But no, Brian crossed back in the daytime and wasn’t asked for Zoa’s documents either. At least we paid for peace of mind bringing the dogs back into the EU.

Having arrived in Spain, we just drove! We stopped to pee, buy snacks and change driver. We did both sleep parked outside a cafe for about an hour and a half.

Driving all day on the 18th, we reached just south of Bordeaux. Straight to the vet I’d booked for 6.00 for Corrie’s worming tablet and pet passport stamp. Onto the hotel and a nearby restaurant. So lovely to be able to drink wine with your meal!!!

I suppose it’s no surprise that we both slept well. The 19th was another none stop driving day. We arrived in Calais at 6.00 p.m. We’d booked a studio apartment on Calais plage. We could have made a crossing that evening, but decided not to arrive at the Aged Ps house in the small hours. Brilliantly equipped and comfortable apartment;  I’ve kept the owner’s number. And it was a stones throw from a lovely restaurant. Still my birthday week, don’t ya know! So we elected to have the more expensive set menu! All three courses!!!

On the morning of the 20th, I did the booze and cheese shop whilst James and Corrie braved the icy sea winds. Premium lounge for lunch on the DFDS ferry. They had macarons… I won’t admit to how many I consumed!

J made his audiology appointment. Only another 2-3 months to actually receive his hearing aids. And it’s quicker, as he agreed to travel from Chichester to Portsmouth. Up to 6 months further wait at Chichester. So that will be nearly a year since he started the NHS application. Friends got theirs in about 6 weeks. It really is a postcode lottery, and it shouldn’t be.

We stayed with the Aged Ps until 27th. A family Christmas at my sister, Clare’s.

Thank goodness, the Aged Ps seem happy to host us, as Jez had been delivered post surgery / repair back to our usual farm, but was not happy. Both engine and lithiums were completely flat. No electric hookup at this farm. But we eventually jump started the engine and moved it to a site with hookup. Followed by a trip to a motorhome service centre. Both services good and MOT passed. We move in tomorrow!

Marrakesh Mania

12/12-16/12/2024

Check out day after a week in a lovely apartment. Our host liked us so much she’d offered us a proper home cooked breakfast, sadly we had to refuse due to time pressures.

Kerstin and I took a full car load from our apt to the Riad, which we’ve booked for my 60th birthday. Gated entrance. Long driveway. Staff assisted with unloading. We didn’t have time to look around but the vibes were good. Back to the apt to collect Corrie and James and onto the airport to greet family, all arriving on the same flight.

Aged Ps were first through at the airport as assisted.

I took the Aged P’s and Maddy in the car whilst the others went in a mini bus. The Riad had organised all our taxis / minibuses whilst with them.

On arrival we were given a tour of the Riad and chose our rooms. Two buildings around a large pool. Huge suites. Heaters on. Lots of break out areas.

The Riad had lots to do. Louis and Ellie both plunged in the pool. Then straight out. Four of us had a massage. Gran did well in the pétanque competition. Clare gave up on tennis as her knees gave up. Table tennis. And Chris had a minor meltdown on the mini golf. Lots of board games. The Riad was so relaxing, even the next generation weren’t bothered about spending time in the city centre.

We had booked self catering with 2 evening meals. We hadn’t expected a full time staff. He was the gardener, who seemed to work evenings so we only were ever aware of his shadow. She was a poppet who was in charge of housekeeping. She had 2 ladies to support her cooking the meals and breakfast every day. Our rooms were made up every morning… a bit of an embarrassment on the first morning for the untidy amongst us! We couldn’t have booked anywhere better.

Trips were a walking tour around Marrakesh. We hired our own guide so we could factor in a tea and pee stop. Informative.

And Marjorelle Gardens. Restored by Yves St Laurent. Expensive tickets. And so busy you have to follow a set route. Extremely disappointing. The YSL museum of dresses was one room only. Nowhere in the gardens to sit and ponder. Too busy. The Berber museum was cold in its presentation. Not good value. Wish I’d know as we would have taken the family to Anima gardens which was fabulous.

I was made a real fuss of for my birthday. Gifts, which I’d not expected, as folk coming over was gift enough. I am truly blest with my family. We had the Riad cook for us … best of Moroccan food.

We had two meals out in Marrakesh. Shams rooftop was very good with professional service. But the Clock Cafe was truly rubbish food and service. Wish we’d booked all evening meals at the Riad.

On the 17th I took Kerstin for an early flight. The family left the Riad at 12.30. J and I set off mid morning.

Just fabulous.

More Marrakesh

11th December 2024

J stayed in the apt with Corrie as he is preparing a talk to give in Crete.

The 5* La Mamounia hotel allows non staying guests to wander around admiring the decor and gardens, which were created by the founder of the Marjorelle Gardens. I fancied the tasting menu at €120, but settled with a €5 homemade ice cream
https://mamounia.com/fr/?utm_medium=google&utm_source=MyBusiness
I managed to leave my phone in their toilets. Of course, there, it was handed in.

In La Mamoudia hotel gardens

The Saadian tombs were walled up and left as I guess destroying your predecessors ancestors brings bad luck. Opened to the public in 2017. Some lovely plaster work, which has some parts unusually picked out with coloured paint.

We wove our way to the tanneries. A self appointed guide explained that the small tanneries were right for Arab but left for Berber. Not sure about this, but he did guide us to the main cooperative. We could see men cleaning the hides and the carpet covered dying pits.

A shared lunch of chicken brochette and omelette Berber. Big booze shop on the way home … the family arrive tomorrow! Yay.

Spices and Earthquake

11th December 2024

We headed out to Tin Mal mosque, hoping it wasn’t hideously touristy like the Ourika valley. Kerstin had visited Marrakesh twice before, but not beyond. Tin Mal is of the two mosques open to non Muslims. With planned stops on the way. Of course things rarely go to plan. This was one of those days where things totally exceed the expectations. And led to grave reflections.

Stop 1 Asni for coffee. Hijacked by two Berber who showed us to the patisserie, then spice shops. The main one was a tiny and narrow shop where Kerstin’s orders for spices were ground up. A really authentic experience. What Kerstin saved on the spices, we both lost on the jewellery we were “encouraged” to buy. Both explained that their houses had been destroyed by the September 23 earthquake and were now living in tents.

We left the main road to find a salt mine, but aborted.

The road disintegrated. It had been built in 1930 by the French and we suspect not improved since. A major over haul. Over 40 km of rocks removal to widen. Stones being tipped into the valley. So many earth moving equipment. A very slow drive. We had thought we may go onto Tizi N’Test pass after the mosque, but not at this snails pace.

Onto the mosque. As we pulled up, our jaws dropped. It’s a shell. With walls shored up by scaffolding. A young man approached us. He’d been a mosque guide. He gave us the history. And more. His brother in law died in the earthquake. Leaving 4 small children. His sister now lives in Marrakesh. Nearly all the villagers now live in tents, on what used to be the motorhome overnight parking. Apparently, quality tents came from the UK. But all, and the plastic coverings, are degrading with the sun. Tourism and animals were the sources of income, but no open Mosque and no shelters for the animals. The government is managing all the emergency aid, but it is slow coming through. Materials and labour are expensive. Very little evidence of rebuilding. Our guide showed us the small footprint where he will rebuild his house. One day. We would not have gone to see the post earthquake hardship had we known / done better research, but hopefully we helped the men in Asni and our guide in Tin Mal, a little. We left our tent, which the guide said he would give to his parents.

Only part of the outside walls remain
One of the rubble piles
Only 6k from the epicentre and very cold at night. No one ever expected a quake in the mountains

Dark by the time we got home. Too late to cook. So stopped at an authentic locals place. Choose and buy your meat from the butcher. The restaurant cooks it.