Marrakesh

Posted on December 10, 2024 by Clunegapyears

07/12/24 – Gueliz the New Town

New Town lived up to its name – but very pleasant. Some greenery for Corrie to wee in – and the same coffee shop twice for a break, helped with auto logging into the WiFi.

*Another Bake Off bake: Paris Brest. Delicious*

*The only building we saw of significance: the opera / ballet / theatre – impressive*

*The Jnane el Harti gardens were leafy, well irrigated and tranquille*

*Not a patch on the architecture of the new Casablanca*

08/11 – Marrakesh Introduction Walk

This good self guided city introduction walk was about 7 km.

Lots of souks – the inevitable coffee stop. A bit too crowded for us. The most tourists we’ve seen anywhere. Added in are mopeds zooming and weaving through the narrow streets.

*Kooutoubia mosque: built in 1147. Nice park for Corrie out the back of it*

*Wooden scaffolding and collapsed buildings. Cleaned up but still witness to last year’s September earthquake*

*Place Jemaa el Fna . Past monkeys and snake charmers. But don’t take a pic, as you’ll have to pay for it! Need to put a load of coins in our pockets*. *The wild dog followed Corrie for a while – tagged so neutered*, *and friendly*

Stopped for late lunch on the way back to the apartment – excellent – K had chicken skewers and I had cheese burger with drinks for €10. About half the price of the tourist restaurants. No need for dinner…

09/12/24 – Nature created and destroyed

Jardins Anima

An early start – I walked Corrie at 5.5 centigrade! Brass monkey weather! We drove through dense fog to Garden Anima – watching the commuters pouring into Marrakesh from the opposite direction. The garden was amazing and Corrie was allowed in – just freezing cold and we had no extra clothes layers. Lots of cacti, water features, hammocks, tree sculptures and excellently maintained. A real treat!

The gardens opened in 2010, created by Andre Hellier as a place to make people smile. And they did. Really enjoyed just wandering the narrow paths to see what was around the corner.

Ourika valley

The afternoon went downhill in an uphill sort of way… up a valley in search of waterfalls. The track was through tatty cafes and shops with not nice wares and lots of rubbish – unpleasant really. We saw 3 places we could have dressed in Berber costume and had our photo taken. So much crap commerce, it was actually hard to see the river. The final straw was badly and boldly painted rocks at the first waterfall. Soldiers insisted that K delete an innocent photo. Time to about turn and get the hell out of there. Driving back down the valley, we swerved at least 30 times avoiding men and boys trying to get us to park and eat.

Back to the apartment via a cheese and crackers lunch in our not ancient Merc and to reflect on our day of nature created and destroyed.

10th December – Kerstin & Marrakesh

I collected Kerstin from the airport. She managed to smuggle more than her wine quota in by telling customs that she was travelling with the man behind!

*Always a welcome visitor when she comes laden with white chocolate!*

Back to our lovely apt for lunch. Then we had a wander in Marrakesh. J nobly drowned in cokes whilst K and I went into the Medersa, university accommodation, and then the Bahia palace.

*The Ben Youssef Medersa*: *Koranic school accommodation and prayer rooms for 900 students. Built mid C14 and rebuilt C16. Very similar to the one I visited in Fez.*

*The much later, late C19, Bahia palace. Using Moroccan materials and craftsmen. I particularly admired the painted wooden ceilings.*

*Kerstin’s new money making scam. Get punters to pay to stroke Corrie. She earned 5MAD!*

Ouzoud, Source and Natural Bridge

Posted on December 7, 2024 by Clunegapyears

4th December 2024 – Imi N’ifri natural stone bridge

“An hour and a half each way just to see a bridge!! ” said my daughter. But it was worth it. Amazing stalagmites, which looked to be made of dirt. We approached from the top, which still involved lots of steps. Dispensed with the guide that tried to tell me that as it’s dangerous, the government states all visitors need a guide. BS! Non, merci after 20 times finally got the message through. J aborted due to the narrow ledge and sheer drop. Vertigo. I went most of the way in and returned to him. Then descended even more steps to the lower end and walked up and under
Definitely worth it. It is spectacular.

A quick stop in Demnate to buy chicken and veg for chicken tagine cooked back at the tent.

5th December Ouzoud Source

Not far from the campsite is the source of the magnificent Cascades Ouzoud. But there were no cafes open there so we headed straight out. We returned to Ouzoud for omelette brunch.

Finally back to the Source. We walked up the gorge. A couple of streams joined. A merest trickle. Till all dry. Tea sat in the sun on the return leg.

We cleaned the tent, as tomorrow it will be taken down for the last time on this trip. A good investment at £225, even if the quality of Vango isn’t what it used to be … the thin sewn in groundsheet now has numerous gaffer tape patches where stones have perforated it.

6th December – onto Marrakesh

4 hours only, including picnic time, to our apartment south of Marrakesh. Lovely apt, a bit more expensive than what we’re used to paying. A combination of location and wanting a 2nd bedroom for when Kerstin arrives. French / Moroccan couple. It’s really quality … even a heater in the bathroom. The sockets all work and aren’t falling out the way. Lovely.

Oozed to Ouzoud

Posted on December 7, 2024 by Clunegapyears

02/12/24 – Saving the best campsite to last

J a little improved but really not well enough for the reservoir walk I’d planned – low energy. So we decided to go straight to Ouzoud.

Our MA sim 60gb nearly depleted so a quick stop at the WiFi shop before we left this sizeable town. First shop all shut up. A lovely young man walked 5 mins with me to an alternative. Mohoosive queue. And J minding the car, with no internet so I couldn’t tell him about the queue. Bugger. No passport, should’ve known. And would not accept my digital version. Back to collect J and Corrie. An even longer queue! Finally sorted. Had coffee and cake as a reward.

The first choice campsite had a group booking arriving tomorrow so no room at the inn. Really not worth erecting the tent for one night. . Finally found an alternative up a long track. Would not have wanted to bring our motorhome up here, so another win on this trip for the car.

Wow. Terraced pitches with views and space. The owner is German so extras that we’ve not seen on other Moroccan campsites, such as full camper’s kitchen, relaxing area, gas bbq and pizza oven.

With no light pollution, the stars and Milky Way made a night toilet trek less of a pain.

Really did save the best campsite to last.

*Hair is the result of too many hair ideas popping up on my FB feed. J described it as “interesting”!*

3rd December – Ouzoud Cascades

No cake today! But omelettes for brunch, whilst watching bus loads arrive on day trips from Marrakesh. The alighted en masse. Used the toilets en masse. And petted Corrie en masse.

*Hadn’t had an omelette Berber for a few weeks!*

J walked to the falls and then sat in a cafe whilst Corrie and I walked down river past rock pools, which in the summer would be full of swimmers.
Tallest MA waterfalls and definitely worth visiting, despite the tourists.

*All tourists going a very mini boat ride, we don’t consider ourselves tourists, so didn’t!*

*The scenery on the walk downstream is very similar to Crete*

Supper was a tinned sardine and vegetables home cooked Tagine. I borrowed a campsite tagine to see if I liked cooking with it. No point buying one if it’s going to sit on a shelf. Delicious. Will try a chicken one tomorrow.

Back to the Middle Atlas

Posted on December 3, 2024 by Clunegapyears

29/11/24 – Another Friday Foxtrot Uncle

The coast generally isn’t grabbing us. There’s only so much surfing you can watch. But we’ve been spoilt by the Greek, especially Cretan coast. Some pretty and interesting towns, notably Essaouria, Oualidia and Casablanca. We didn’t fancy Rabat, the capital, so back to the hills it is.

Three nights in an apt in Beni Mellal booked. Yay a washing machine; our bedding is needing changing, plus a big sack of clothes. Apt was more than we are used to paying but it has a washing machine. No campsites near here either. However, when we arrived … no machine. Apparently, it broke and no one used it! But it’s in the description … I’ve sent the owner the laundrette receipt. No response so far, but I’ll pursue through Airbnb. Only €15 but the apt wasn’t as clean as it should be either.

On the route we stopped at Bejaad / Boujad. A pilgrimage town with shrines to fighters for independence etc. And known for pile carpets. BUT we forgot it is prayer Friday. Nearly all the shops were closed and we couldn’t tell the mausoleums apart from the mosques.

*We got lost in the old narrow streets which aren’t mapped in Organic Maps. We worked on the principle of 4 sides of a square although the odd dead end complicated matters.*

*All that was open but we did find a cafe.*

*View from the cafe – memorial to someone from the fight for independence from the French*

30/11/24 – Beni Mellal Bonus

J has a cold, think it’s a proper cold, not dust inflammation so the walks I’d planned will be much curtailed. A local day, including the pharmacy. And the two laundry trips. Oh, and Carrefour … will eat in the next few days.

*Amazing how I’ve learned to find patisserie with dine in!* *And it’s open tomorrow!*

We drove up to the Kaabah overlooking the town. Not high expectations but found the end of the rainbow. Well, the source of the city’s wealth … water. Ain Asserdoun, means Mule Spring. A farmer blocked up the source and demanded a water ransom a few times too many. The townsfolk followed him on his mule to the source and have protected it ever since. Apparently, the castle was built in early C19 to protect it. The build was facilitated by a human chain passing up the materials.

*Just below the source, is a well irrigated water garden.*

*Rather pleased with this pic* *on a phone*

*The Kaabah protecting the town and its water*

P.s. I’m sure pyjama top has shrunk … blame the driers at the laundry!” Definitely not the cake!

O1/12/24 – Kasba Tadla

Ok, so the patisserie greeted us like regulars!

Once breakfast sorted, we drove to Kasba Tadla. Supposed to be a cascade but more of a dribble and slimey pools from the hydro wall. Time of year I guess.

*Locals just setting up the typical street market.* *We’ve noticed Moroccans have a slow start, things don’t get going till gone 11.*

*All the gates had been sealed, but I eventually found the entry one. The inside was a wasteland, bar a mosque*

*I headed to the French cemetery, but a local said it was locked, the view across to the hill didn’t look inspiring* … *another wasteland*

Corrie attracted a vocal canine entourage. One lady and later a man helped to deter the strays. Nice of them. Tbh it’s been a regular occurrence. Other than one petrol pump attendant trying to put premium diesel in the car, the Moroccans have been super helpful.

J didn’t have any energy so sat whilst I walked. Rather than go onto another village nearby, I drove the poorly one back to bed.

*Too many hair ideas in my FB feed. J described it as interesting. Mum said she knew what her father would say – must ask her but I suspect I won’t like it.*

Casablanca

Posted on November 30, 2024 by Clunegapyears

26/11/24

Using gps my city app we clocked up 12 km walking the city. We did both the old city and most of the new city walks. J achieved 22,000 steps compared to my 16,000. He’s a smaller stride, of course!

We used a small car park near the big mosque … 7.5 hours and only €1. Yet our first drink stop was tourist prices at €6 for two milky coffees.

Casa is definitely worth a visit and we nearly didn’t bother. Interesting architecture as new is art deco. The first French governor decided to transform Casablanca into a premier city so massive building works, which are still going on now. As we drove in we passsed housing / business / leisure development after development… all promising the perfect life. And ready customers as folk flea the dry barren hinterland. It would be interesting to see the demographic of city v country 20 years ago and now. J read that the European & African Investment Banks are heavily backing all the apartment block and road construction. J had dealings with the former in his bridge days … tough cookies and only invest for a good return.

The Mohammed II mosque is the largest in Africa and depending on the internet source, the 2nd / 5th / 17th largest in the world. Either way, it can accommodate over 208,000 people. Mohammed paid some. Domestic and international gifts and then “forced” public subscription for the rest. Despite only being finished in 1993, the rebars in the concrete corroded within 5 years and it had to undergo restoration – $50m. All materials are Moroccan, except Italian pillars and Murano chandeliers. We couldn’t even walk around the outside. A local explained that poor Moroccans from the country had been smoking in the grounds. This disrespect meant visitors could only get close when it is opened for prayer.

*My fave pic! It was built on former water slide* *site and rises out of the sea.*

Of course we had to pose at Rick’s Cafe. Actually the brain child of an ex USA foreign office official and opened 2004. Their web site has a whole video on the dress code … flip flops and sandals are a NO.

*Lots of art deco buildings, needing different levels of renovation*

*A mosque and medina wall … it’s not all new*

*The catholic cathedral, redeployed as a sports / arts* / *activity space. Fairly ugly frontage but I couldn’t get over the size of it when we saw the side view from the neighbouring park.*

*Skate, roller blade and pars cours park. Not a single child with a helmet, knee or elbow pads. Not seen a single bicycle helmet or lights either.*

*Trafalgar Square equivalent, except London had banned the pigeons! There is always a mad bird lady.*

27-28/11/24 – To Exchange or not to Exchange

… that is definitely the question. We are in the process of selling our Devon house. A chain of 3. All wanted the deals done for a pre Christmas move. But our buyer’s solicitor didn’t get / understand the memo. But we sat tight not wanting to commit to accommodation or moving too far from Marrakesh airport in case I needed to fly to the UK to clear the house. I needed to be back in Marrakesh as Kerstin arrives on 10th and family on 13th to help me into official middle age … 60! The time window passed so I got on with planning the next 2 weeks.

Two no drive days … we pottered. Walked the sea front. Ate ice cream. Hand washing. Even got the Pilates mat out – me, and running shoes -J.

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

Category Archives: 2024