Love a bit of architecture. Got it in spades here. The first bath house was built in 1870 as the waters were known to be beneficial. In 1913 they were proved to be medicinal… radon apparently. Stalin’s first visit was in 1920 and 3 spa houses were hastily erected using 4000 labourers. The Soviet’s ‘acquired’ the territory during the 1920s and declared it a Balneotherapy centre – treatment of medical conditions using mineral water. After WW2 there was an explosion of construction. By the 1950s there were 9 bath houses in Central Park and a further 22 sanitarium and wellness centres around the park.
At its peak there were 125,000 Soviet visitors p.a. There was even a direct train from Moscow. It was not just the party elite who visited. Every citizen had the right to rest and leisure. Good workers would buy a voucher for an inexpensive amount. About one third of a middle class monthly income. As well as baths there were entertainments in theatres, libraries and conference halls.
A bustling and thriving city. Lots of restoration and modernising in 1980s. Until 1991. Georgian independence. Visitor numbers dropped to less than 1000. Most of the buildings were abandoned and stripped of tiles, radiators … anything that could be reused or sold. Refugees from Abkhazia were housed here from 1992. Most of them were eventually rehoused the last ones officially by 2023. Although one building was full of clothes that looked like more recent squatters. And I was charged £1.25 by an elderly lady to enter one, where were living, to see the public areas.
I think we were lucky to be able to enter so many of the buildings. The Georgian government has tried a few times to ressurect Tskaltubo to top spa destination. Recently a number have been purchased and are being restored. Fences around some went up only this year. Stalin came here regularly on holiday. His bath house No. 6 is one of the few that is restored and operational.
We must have walked over 9k. The first park was through a huge beautiful park – Central Park. Loved it.
Central Park The first one we enteredOne of the functioning bath houses in the parkRestored Bath house No 6 where Stalin had his treatmentsThis was a public bath house – each grave was a bathLooked like squatters as no effort had been made to make the rooms home. They left piles of clothing. Here and in other hotels, the wallpaper in each room was different Hotel Medea. It was recently cleared of inhabitants and a guard on duty to prevent people moving it. Now a major wedding photography venue – 2 lots whilst we were thereMedea must’ve been beautiful in its daySome of the hotel / bath houses were for guests from specific jobs. This is metallurgist. Another was Miner. You can see which rooms are inhabited. I paid £1.25 to look at the public rooms. The concert hall with not so grand pianoEntrance hallThink it was the dining room as kitchens nearbyCould see daylightRenovations in progress, just When we left Tskaltubo, road hazards were cattle, pigs, horses, dogs, chicken andgeeseWe drove up to a peaceful ruin parking
Very heavy rain all evening and overnight with the grounds getting soft. I was concerned about getting Jez out of the campsite, but J guided the wheels over the best route. Phew. We filled with LPG (£ 0.37 per litre), replenished our cellar 🍷 and bought diesel. Lovely when the right things are empty / full.
We were headed for Kutaisi, but I plotted two activities en route.
The first was Vani archeological museum. Award winning as the exhibits really were well presented. Love the use of mirrors behind the artifacts. Vani was a cult temple / necropolis centre. Largely undisturbed and few tombs raided, with finds going back to C8-7 BC. A lot of gold and treasures were found. Mid C3 BC the Greeks arrived and there was a Hellenistic influence. And coins indicating trade. I was particularly struck by the bronze casts from C1 BC. They really were particularly fine.
C1 BC
Our second stop involved us abandoning Jez as the track was very pot holey and muddy. So were we (muddy not holey or even holy) by the time we had walked to Dikhashkho Sulphur Geyser. With our lack of on board shower, we didn’t fancy joining the others in the sulphur bath. I dipped my fingers in and the water was warm and smelly.
Apparently the tiny pool gets crowded at sunset
We parked up along the river in Kutaisi. A spot recommended by a motorhome builder / hirer. We are hopeful that he can perform magic on some of our needed repairs.
What a parking
Kutaisi Twice
21/09/25
An over 20,000 steps day. We walked twice into Kutaisi. Back for 1.00 to meet Rustam. He builds small campers and rents them and motorhomes. Repair isn’t really his business but there just aren’t any other options in Georgia. He said he’d have a go at most issues, but wouldn’t touch the Alde wet heating. We gave him a key to Jez and he returned that afternoon to do the work:
A screw had broken off that holds a window arm to the wall
A drawer handle had come off and the threads sheared.
The 220v system had stopped working on inverter. It works as if we are on hook up, or should. I’d tested the 220 by plugging in the external orange cable with an adapter, so I knew it was the connection. Rustam unconnected and reconnected everything between them. And it worked. Yay.
The roof light over the bed leaked in heavy rain whilst driving. We’d had it resealed 18 months ago, but Rustam thinks it is a rooflight design fault. We had replaced a wind up handle roof light with a bar to open some years ago, saving about £150. We may be able to block the ventilation holes with a rubber strip.
One shower drain had broken the tray around it. Rustam looked at the fitting of the tray, but to remove it would have involved first removing the shower walls. So we went for just sealing it over, leaving us with one drain.
Total price €150, so happy.
We just wandered Kutaisi in the morning.
Passing water gushing off a mountain and women sweeping debris from drains along the road. Where are the men?The rusty pipe along the road was Russia’s cheap way of supplying gas to properties. Cheaper than burying underground. I read that it recommended to call should you smell gas, 💥 boomSo many cars are missing front or rear bumpers. The driving is only beaten by Albania on the bad driving scale. Georgia is a major importer of used cars from the USA, which they repair and sell onto Russia and the ‘Stans. Either, a fair few of the wreaks make it onto the Georgian roads, or more worryingly, damage is caused whilst on the Georgian roads.
In the afternoon we went to Bugrati Cathedral. One of the 4 most important Georgian orthodox cathedrals. Gelati Monastery, which is a must see, is closed for renovation so Bugati is doing a production line in weddings. A standing service is held off to the side. Seems to be a quick affair with no music or guest / family readings. Three weddings just in the time we were there.
Bugrati cathedral Controversial as it was significantly restored, with a modern wing and supporting part of the inside. UNESCO very unhappy so moved the cathedral from a world heritage site to a site at risk. But having looked at the photos of the state it was in before, I’m with Georgia, not the purists.Supper was delicious. Walnuts in aubergine and chicken sauce, but smooth. My leftovers made 2 soups and a bottle of good white was only £10
Kutaisi Walking Tour
22/09/2025
We crossed the hydro plant and walked into town along the other side of the river.The river is still raging muddy water after all the rain and we could see Jez in his parking.
We did a guided walking tour with one other couple … Hungarian father and daughter living in Geneva. He grew up in London from age 9 and spoke English with a plummy accent, she with a strong accent. A good tour and it cemented some of the history I’ve been reading. Our guide does speak Russian, but is reluctant to use it … we witnessed this when a Russian lady asked for directions. He also advised against visiting 2 museums as they’d been built by Russia. I asked about the flood of Russians (I had read 1.2 million) after the invasion of Ukraine (either to avoid conscription or as they disagreed with the war). He said if you heard a loud booze fuelled party late into the evening, it was Russians. He also said that Georgians charged Russians more to rent or buy property.
Colchis Fountain – I’d driven around it … no rules at all. A complete free for all in every direction Quite a few statues around. Chap in the right, outside the No 1 public school, had taken the Georgian historic archives and treasures to France in 1921to protect them from the invading Red ArmyRestored open parkTells the history of Georgia
Lunch was fairly liquid, as one yummy glass of wine became 3. A recommendation from a young journalist who was at the next table. I got her to write down the names of some good wineries. We ate a hot chicken liver, onion and mushroom fricasse with iceberg lettuce – an interesting combination but it worked. We had taken the large rucksack and I filled it with meat, fruit and veggies at the daily market.
Our only evening visitors were cattle and a horse!
It was a surprisingly quiet night with the sound of the waterfall drowning out any truck noise.
A 15 minute drive to the border, with a quick stop to buy water. We were through the border into Georgia in 35 mins. J had to walk through.
We drove to Batumi. I’d not intended to visit, it as it is a holiday destination, but the old town was lovely. Once we had managed to find somewhere to park!
A wide leafy boulevard along the beach. The town planners had foresight not to allow hotels right on the beach Not seen one of these before. Also lots of boxing booths Batumi Tower: tallest in Georgia at 200m. Built 2012 …… with a ferris wheel near the top!Alphabet Tower: celebrating the uniqueness of the Georgian alphabet and peopleAli and Nino monument. He is Muslim, she Christian. At 7.00 p.m. they move for 10 mins. Merging and separating. Symbolising eternal love Astrological clockBeautiful restored buildingsWe also saw the less attractive Soviet style apartment blocks, similar ugly functional design to those we saw in Slovakia
The reason for going to Batumi was to get a Magticom sim and some cash. The Magti sim was £12 for unlimited data for a month and so far seems fast.
We tried to stop at Carrefour but couldn’t park, so stopped at a small supermarket to buy wine and beer. Felt we needed to celebrate being in Georgia, so our dry week was only 5 days.
On a very basic campsite for 2 nights to shower and do laundry. Seems to be a shower hose over the toilet and I’ve been warned it’s not hot! But my hair definitely needs doing.
Laundry all hanging in the shower and off every hook inside as the heavens opened. And now the twin tub spinner has stopped working, so it’s actually all dripping
Laundry
19/09/2925
Late up. Rain did not encourage us to rise. But then then the sun made an appearance so all the laundry went onto the clothes airer. I was about to tackle the bedding, but with dread as the twin tub spinner has stopped working. Quite a work out for J and I to hand wring. We did it the first year full timing, but as soon as we got back to the UK, I bought the twin tub. To be honest, it is 9 years old, so doesn’t owe me anything. I was filling the watering can and the campsite owner offered to drive me to a laundry about 5 km away. 2 large machine loads was only £4, but wash only as their drier broken.
We wandered into to local town along the promonade. Had a late soup / omelette lunch … and 2 very large glasses of wine each. Wine rubbish but how lovely to be able to order booze out … other than our side trip to Dublin, all meals out have been dry for 2 months.
Whilst out, our fabulous campsite owner messaged … he was off to collect our laundry. Could I pay him for his time and fuel? No, but he wouldn’t mind a bottle of beer. So we found a shop in the town and carried back 2 bottles, but they are 2.5 litres each. He seemed pleased. And I’m pleased to have all the laundry done. I’m not so pleased that I can’t get it all dry … it’s back to piss-cipation again until Monday.
Despite having paid last night to stay overnight in the Sumela Monastery car park, the bar steward on the gate was determined to charge for today too. Even J got a little angry. Think this is our only negative person encounter in Turkey in nearly 2 months.
Pretty scenery on our descent to a large mall. Corrie got left again as we headed into Starbucks for coffee and cake, a hoody for she who didn’t bring enough warm clothes and a small food shop. We came away with no booze!
Shocking colour
The plan was to spend the evening surrounded by tea plantations. Think French vineyard. But after a too busy / parked cars / small road abortive drive to a tea garden and then not liking a narrow road up hill to a plantation, we aborted altogether. We could see mounds of tea plants all around and that will have to do!
Mounds of tea plants
Our park up is sandwiched between trucks, many Georgian, by a picnic area. The best spots have been nabbed by the permanent caravans and other camping cars.
Just as well no booze on board, as I could have sunk a vat of gin tonight! Had an ice cream instead and watched a man tree climbing for figs.
Hemsin
16/09/2025
It got noisy from 0530 with the trucks firing up. Meant we got up and away before 0920. An easy drive to Hemsin, passing the rounded tea plants, planted wherever there is space.
We liked Hemsin. Totally ordinary. The municipality has installed a lovely riverside walk. With adult swings!
????
Asked a local with G translate about a road. He replied with perfect English as he used to live in Russel Square, London ££££s! Upshot was we left Jez in the town and walked from there. Uphill to a waterfall. Lunch at the top. Then staggered up a bit more before descending
It is just so lovely to be in lush green. Beach trees, ferns, a few nettles all indicate how damp this climate.
Should have shared!Saw a few log and hay barnsHouses dripping down the hillOwner v proud of his immaculate Lada. I had a red one briefly Tea factory Lots of Ottoman bridges
J tried to nap but trucks with picked tea leaves kept trundling past and elderly men yelling at each other (I sympathise with hearing loss as J’s hearing aids are rarely fully functioning). So we took the local’s advice to drive back to the coast and up the next valley for a quieter overnight parking.
We drove past miles of raft and zip wire offerings. Definitely the tourist route.Some major road improvements again. J read that overseas banks including Deutsche Bank are funding most of the widespread road construction. All to be paid back in 21 years?!?
We paid under £3 to enter the national park and stopped in a lay-by. This is 🤫
Camlihemsin
17/09/2025
The rain arrived at 0600, and rather than get stuck in mud in our lay-by, we drove / crawled up a dodgy road to a camper stop. It is / was being constructed and then was destroyed by an avalanche. Some derelict huts, a lot of new roofs and even more piles of broken timber and bent metal. Very sad when folk invest and try to make a living. We felt we needed to contribute so left a good tip after a shared lunch plate.
We walked up and up following a river. Then down and down. J’s legs telling him that he exercised yesterday too!
We were joined by big boy … a real softie. Even Corrie didn’t mind him as he didn’t keep shoving his nose up her bumLove these mountains for the mixed foliageand lots of white croci
Spoke to a couple (in French!) who were tapping the pine trees for resin. His wife makes all sorts of cures and balms. And spotted others picking wild bilberries.
Back down the mountain to get close to the border. Limited options so in a truck stop. But a waterfall behind us which will drown out any engine noise.
And that is a mini glacier we passed!
Tea
Rize is the premium Turkish black tea growing area due to high rainfall and fertile soil. More than 80% of Turkey’s tea comes from here … that is a LOT as they drink it constantly – highest tea consumption worldwide at over 3 kgs p.a. per person. The 2nd is Morocco at 2 kgs, followed by the UK at 1.7kgs. It wasn’t always tea though. They used to drink coffee, but it became too expensive after WW2, so Ataturk told people to drink tea instead. They used to import from China until they realised they had the perfect climate in the NE. They are the No. 5 worldwide producer.
The tea has health benefits … it reduces risk of heart attacks and diabetes, lowers cholesterol and increases metabolism. And we like the taste. I’ll buy into those benefits so I bought some and was drinking several large mugs. I eventually linked my bloating and severe flatulence to another side effect! The tannins irritate the bowel. Perhaps I was over consuming!
Although 2 mins from the Fiat garage, we had to go back on ourselves for 6 mins to get across the dual carriageway. We spoke to 4 people, but were eventually told they hadn’t the right oil. Could they get it? I don’t know! Obviously the right staff were not working Saturday morning. They referred us to Master Garage further past Trabzon. So back up along the same bit of road to turn again.
Master Garage said we were too big. Ho hum. This is becoming a saga. So we just bought some oil. It’s not quite right … I googled … we needed C2, this is C3, so we may loose 5% mpg. And it’s partially synthetic … we needed fully, so it’s not quite as pure. But at least we won’t seize the engine. It will have a full service mid November when I return it to the UK.
Zigana Tunnel -Turkey’s longest tunnel 14.48km. The pass used to close for 5 months due to snow. Surprisingly free
With the dull coastline, we continued up into the hills. So we spent a jobs afternoon in the car park of a viewing platform at Torul.
Torul viewing platform where a castle used to be Our park up views
All alone by 6.30, but then a car arrived. Two young chaps. I thought they were either going to ask for money or tell us to move. Just as well it is dry night No. 1, so I could drive. But no, they warned us we would be locked in until 9.00 am. Just fine by us.
Sumela Monastery
14/09/2024
We checked our planned route with the staff at the viewing platform. Yes the mountain road was ‘clear and comfortable’ for our camper. We didn’t want to return by the same tunnel. A beautiful drive.
I stoped driving a few times just to soak up the viewsWe also found a spring water pipe to refill, as we were down to 25%We had lunch on the way and it was a little chilly so they lit the stoveWe had planned to walk but whilst eating, the clouds descended so laziness prevailed
Our destination was one of the top attractions – Sumela Monastery. A Greek Orthodox monastery built into sheer cliffs. Originally founded around AD386, largely expanded during C6 and C13. It had 72 rooms including a rock church and various other chapels. It thrived and was a pilgrimage site until the population exchange in 1923. Thereafter it fell into disrepair, with a fire destroying wooden parts in 1930. The Turkish government funded restoration with it opening to visitors in 2011. It then had to close from 2015-2019 whilst they installed significant measures, including steel netting, to prevent rock fall. I had not expected so many frescoes to be on the exterior. Sadly so many badly damaged by graffiti. We got our steps in and it was very busy.
Aqueduct We had planned to walk up 1.7k but only got so far as the path had collapsed. Had to flag down one of the busses or it would have added 3km along the road. Eerie mist
Sumela Monastery J reading in the library … he great acting skills!The death of Mary, who the church is dedicated tooBloody graffiti With the steel rock protection Inside the being restored main rock church
We have spent the night in the car park here … another duvet night, it is definitely Autumn.
Overnight parking with good stars
More van woes. A drawer screw won’t screw back in so we are having to prop that drawer open. And the inverter is working but not supplying the 240 v system.
Clune Gap Years 