Oil, Hills & Sumela Monastery

Posted on September 15, 2025 by Clunegapyears

Oil and Back to the Hills

13/09/25

Although 2 mins from the Fiat garage, we had to go back on ourselves for 6 mins to get across the dual carriageway. We spoke to 4 people, but were eventually told they hadn’t the right oil. Could they get it? I don’t know! Obviously the right staff were not working Saturday morning. They referred us to Master Garage further past Trabzon. So back up along the same bit of road to turn again.

Master Garage said we were too big. Ho hum. This is becoming a saga. So we just bought some oil. It’s not quite right … I googled … we needed C2, this is C3, so we may loose 5% mpg. And it’s partially synthetic … we needed fully, so it’s not quite as pure. But at least we won’t seize the engine. It will have a full service mid November when I return it to the UK.

*Zigana Tunnel -Turkey’s longest tunnel 14.48km*. *The pass used to close for 5 months due to snow. Surprisingly free*

With the dull coastline, we continued up into the hills. So we spent a jobs afternoon in the car park of a viewing platform at Torul.

*Torul viewing platform where a castle used to be*

All alone by 6.30, but then a car arrived. Two young chaps. I thought they were either going to ask for money or tell us to move. Just as well it is dry night No. 1, so I could drive. But no, they warned us we would be locked in until 9.00 am. Just fine by us.

Sumela Monastery

14/09/2024

We checked our planned route with the staff at the viewing platform. Yes the mountain road was ‘clear and comfortable’ for our camper. We didn’t want to return by the same tunnel. A beautiful drive.

*I stoped driving a few times just to soak up the views*

*We also found a spring water pipe to refill, as we were down to 25%*

*We had lunch on the way and it was a little chilly so they lit the stove*

*We had planned to walk but whilst eating, the clouds descended so laziness prevailed*

Our destination was one of the top attractions – Sumela Monastery. A Greek Orthodox monastery built into sheer cliffs. Originally founded around AD386, largely expanded during C6 and C13. It had 72 rooms including a rock church and various other chapels. It thrived and was a pilgrimage site until the population exchange in 1923. Thereafter it fell into disrepair, with a fire destroying wooden parts in 1930. The Turkish government funded restoration with it opening to visitors in 2011. It then had to close from 2015-2019 whilst they installed significant measures, including steel netting, to prevent rock fall.
I had not expected so many frescoes to be on the exterior. Sadly so many badly damaged by graffiti. We got our steps in and it was very busy.

*J reading in the library … he great acting skills!*

*The death of Mary, who the church is dedicated too*

*Inside the being restored main rock church*

We have spent the night in the car park here … another duvet night, it is definitely Autumn.

More van woes. A drawer screw won’t screw back in so we are having to prop that drawer open. And the inverter is working but not supplying the 240 v system.

Along the Black Sea

Posted on September 11, 2025 by Clunegapyears

09/09/2025

We continued driving east along the Black Sea coast road. The Black Sea has a staggering average depth of 1,253 metres, so not unsurprisingly most of the coast is mountains or cliffs. It is 1175 metres / 730 miles long. Major rivers including the Danube feed it and the main outsource is the Dardanelles. Weird, but the water here flows both ways – the denser more saline flows into the Black Sea below the fresher less dense water from the Black Sea.

*Being behind a bus made the narrow and bendy coast road easier, but it kept stopping, so we had to go past. After Doganyurt, the road vastly improved. Phew.*

*The coast is definitely similar to N Devon* *mixed trees, including beech, tumbling to the shore*

We stopped at Inebolu for coffee and cake. An ordinary town, so we liked it.

*Inebolu beach. Despite the guide books talking about beautiful Black Sea beaches, they are all grey and many are stones*

Abana was recommended for fish restaurants, but we had lunch in Jez. Couldn’t see a fish shop or I’d have bought supper. The small water park and fun fare were closed up now. Children returned to school this week.

*A lot nice square with pigeons bathing in the fountain. Another house model, we’d seem one in Inebolu too*

J wanted to nap and I needed water to deploy the twin tub, so we’ve stopped about 2.00 at a coastal picnic spot. Another sign the season is over is how few families came to use the bbqs. Super peaceful night with the sound of waves.

*Sunset from our edge of the sea front parking as we BBQ’d*

Sinop

10/09

*We both exercised, did the van services and still awa*y by 9.20

We reckon at least half the population are employed in construction and mostly road building. We crossed over several very wide rivers, most of which were also having work done. As well as whole new roads.

We planned to go to waterfalls, but after the first gravelly small hairpin and 23 km of similar ahead, I aborted. Still scarred by the road to Cide!

Our first destination therefore, was Turkey’s only fjord. Hamsilos Koyu. Or so they claim, cos it ain’t really a fjord. The fjord itself and the walk along it, where you couldn’t see anything or trees, were not up to much.

But through the Hamsilos National park, on the way, was lovely. Pretty beaches and a small harbour. We lunched here and then J had a nanny nap.

Sinop is interesting. It’s main attraction is the Alcatraz of Anatolia. A prison built in 1887 inside a castle, on the site of what was one of the Ottoman’s main 3 ship building sites. I was there an hour and I scooted round and missed bits as J and Corrie were outside. Think Midnight Express. It only ceased operating in 1997.

The main gates of Sinop town would close at night. Very few escaped, one though the sewers. But the next chap who tried the same route had a shite ending and drowned as they’d put up bars.

*Entrance where prisoners were searched*

In November 1953, the Battle of Sinop, saw the Russians destroyed a squadron of Ottoman ships. This prompted retaliation by Western Forces … the Crimean War.

*I ‘guided’ J uphill to a closed Byzantine ruined church and round lots of back streets*

Fish supper overlooking the huge fishing boat harbour. Watched a boat come in with a load of melon.

We liked Sinop. Corrie didn’t. She was attacked twice by city dogs. We carried the water pistol. Actually J, for a pacifist, got trigger happy. No cats or dogs were truly harmed.

Not a Disaster, but could have been!

Posted on September 9, 2025 by Clunegapyears

07/09/2025

A bit of a disappointing and difficult day.

The Horma Valley board walk was shut due to the earlier heavy rain. Disappointing but sensible as the wood was slippery. What we could see was lovely.

Drove to Valla Canyon. The deepest gorge in Turkey and the 2nd highest in the world. No. 1 is Arizona. The last part of the approach was tight with cars parked along the road. J guided me past with an inch either side. The tiny car park was full. Nowhere to turn. Fortunately someone indicated for us to keep going forward as it looped back to the wider part of road. Two attempts to get up the slippery slope. So that was our visit to the deepest canyon!

*Valla Canyon from a distance as we couldn’t stop close by*

Once out of the crammed parking, we aborted Valla and followed the sign to Cide on the coast, where we planned to sleep. The road got progressively worse. More track than tarmac.

And then it got worse and worse. Big earth movers, as they attempt to widen and improve it. There were some very anxious moments as there was mud from trucks and the heavy rain, and steep bends. About an hour and a half in, we stalled. Literally. Just no way was Jez going up a particularly muddy steep bend. Nothing for it but to reverse (down mud) to turn around. Trundling our retreat, I was amazed Jez had got up some of the slopes. We didn’t think to take pix of the particularly bad sections.

We have come back to the large and solid parking at Horma. Exhausted from the stress, with aching shoulders and jaw from being clenched. But so thankful Jez didn’t slide off the track. I’ve checked with a bus driver on our exit route for tomorrow!

Horma Now Open … Wow

08/09/25

We showered and filled with water. Wandered across to the canyon entrance with Google translate on the phone …is the gorge open all the way to the waterfall. Yes. So we got to walk some the most spectacular nature we have seen in Turkey. Capodochia was amazing too.
3km each way along a board walk to a waterfall. Narrow in places, sheer and super deep, up to 230m in places. I couldn’t stop grinning. Or taking photos. It completely fed my soul.

We then drove the orange roads (A-roads) to Cide, where we had attempted to reach yesterday. Still quite bumpy at times, but a relief after yesterday.

Described as a pretty fishing village. A few boats in the harbour but other than the mountains behind, it had nothing to recommend it. Many restaurants have closed up. Seems Sept 1st is the end of summer. Bought some washing up liquid and snacks and left, taking the coast road east. Oh dear, this road is c.250km to Sinop and is another orange roads, but being resurfaced with spray and a ton of chip. Bendy and narrow. Taking 2 of us to peer around right hand bends.

We’ve spent the night on a small quiet beach other than the mosque, which bellowed very loudly at 4.00 am. Another small camper. Russian … I googled that Turkey is still visa free for Russians.

We made the decision to continue along this coast road as the scenery is pretty. It reminds me of N Devon. But we will skip the 200+ detour S to Ilgaz national park … looks good, but we do want to make Georgia and are conscious our visa free allowance is 90 days in 180.

Amasra, not quite Amazing

Posted on September 9, 2025 by Clunegapyears

06/09/2025

An old town with Byzantine and Genoese castle wall remains. Little other interesting architecture. But pretty with a stone bridge to an island. Harbours either side. We followed overgrown paths up to the Temple of Poseidon. Hunted the stone blocks, as it was even more overgrown than the paths. Views and being away from the tourists was worth the climb.

*Corrie was not a fan of the English Setter, although she is half that breed*

Tourist prices for all the tat. Pretty enough, but we just don’t like the commercialism or the tourists! We had a very good lunch.

*My sea bream was perfectly cooked, so that was amazing. I kept trying for decent fish in Morocco, but it was always over cooked.*

Slow drive from Amasra down to a National Park. Narrow roads. Subsidence and pot holes. Bends, hills and adverse camber. And biblical rain. My shoulders were tight. A few gins were purely medicinal.

*Corrie chilly, so her ganzie came out. Don’t think I’ll need to shear her fur again*

Discovered the roof light resealing done in the UK had been bodged. It leaked in heavy rain whilst driving. Fortunately for me, onto J’s side of the bed. Another trip to the motorhome repair in Ankara on our return trip, I think.

Safranbolu & Tolkali Gorge

Posted on September 9, 2025 by Clunegapyears

05/08/25

Nothing fantastic, but a lovely day.
Awoken at 6.00 by a freight train, friendly driver hit his horn, not so lovely. Googled and there is a passenger train on this line 3 times a week. It was built in 1936 to connect a port with the coal field east of Ankara. Different wagons so now shifting a lot of different stuff. And frequently as trains every 2 hours 24/7. And they were seriously long and slow.

Drove to Safranbolu. It’s a UNESCO city. On the silk route. Most visit Turkey sites, list it as a must do.

Nice as original Ottoman buildings and cobble streets, which were actually slippery due to use. We could have feasted on saffron flavoured Turkish delight samples as we passed shops, but we shared a kofte dish. A cat attacked Corrie and drew a little blood.

*The houses are original and most now seem to be either shops, hotels or restaurants*

*I went into an Ottoman house. The same as we saw in Albania … men and women celebrated weddings in different rooms*

*My fave part was actually not in the guidebooks – a small park with miniature clock towers from across Turkey*

Short drive to a Tokatli Gorge. A short gorge walk, accessed via rickety steps, a glass viewing platform and an aqueduct.

*J not happy with heights, but suffered the Crystal Terrace. The sign on the glass by his knees, forbade ‘prancing*

*The aqueduct that used to feed Safranbolu*. *The centre part had been filled in.*

We stayed the night in the car park near the aqueduct and watched folk go through the broken gate to cross it and pose for selfies. Interestingly, a big sign displays the ambulance number.

We were joined by a young Turkish couple and daughter in their camper. With his basic English and Google Translate, they gave us lots of tips for the N coast.

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

Category Archives: 2025

Oil, Hills & Sumela Monastery

Along the Black Sea

Not a Disaster, but could have been!

Amasra, not quite Amazing

Safranbolu & Tolkali Gorge