Kracking Krakow

Posted on August 20, 2023 by Clunegapyears

18-19/08/2023

At 8.00, I did battle with the Ojcow National Park ticket machine again. Ticket to 11.30, which would give us time for a short walk and an ice cream. Well, that was the plan. The walk part was fine … although it was hunt the limestone outcrops amongst the beech trees.

Arriving at Ojcow hamlet, we found an establishment that was open … only just finished cleaning the tables. No ice cream. Brunch then. Not wanting a big meal, we opted for 2 types of pierogi. Soft filled dumplings with assorted fillings. Nice but not worth a repeat. And very filling. At least one traditional Polish food ticked off.

*I had Russkie … curdled cheese and potato which was nicer than it sounds. J* *had* *meat*.

By the time our meals arrived, time had marched on. So we had a march back up hill to Jez, arriving somewhat after 11.30. Fortunately, no ticket inspector.

Decision time … where to go next, bearing in mind Kerstin was flying in Friday evening. Not too far, said I. Let’s check out the free or car park parking in Krakow and do a bit of the city before K arrives. We went via Lidl for a limited shop as the fridge had packed up (again) in gas.

Having found what seemed to be the perfect spot, we had lunch, J rested, and then we set off on a walk. Just as the city police arrived and started clamping the cars! Lucky escape for us. We drove to a few other car parks but they were either very expensive, no attendant or just for cars. Ho hum … enough time investigating. Time to head for a campsite.

Camping Smok isn’t expensive, compared to the UK at £33 per night for 2 adults, a dog and EHU, but it seems a lot. So we made good use of the electricity and water tap the next morning. I did laundry: clothes, bedding, Corrie’s beds and rugs. J cleaned and then I polished the outside windows and Jez’s nose. Phew.

After lunch it was an easy bus and tram, thanks to the Jakodjade trasport app. We pay for gps.mycity app annually and had downloaded the Krakow self guided walking tours. We planned to visit the main sights tomorrow with Kerstin. Today, we followed the Jewish Tour. The area definitely has it’s own feel. Lots of Jewish business and signs. And some fab looking small eateries.

*A lot of synagogues were mostly used as warehouses during WW2. One was used as an ammunition store.* *Only* *2 are still in use.*

*The Old Synagogue* *and J purposefully walking off to find a bus*h!

*The main Jewish square. Shame so many cars.*

This square was in the former Ghetto. Different coloured stones marked where the walls were. The Germans collected Jews here before moving them to extermination camps. The chairs are a reminder of how the Jews brought domestic items with them, little realising they would be of no use. On the far side of the square is a pharmacy. It was the only one in the Ghetto. The Polish owner would pass information, *food and hid Jewish familie*s’ *previous items when they were shipped out.*

Supper was bacon, corn and cheese risotto. Sort of! Couldn’t find the tin of corn and couldn’t buy arborio rice, so used bulgar wheat. Different but OK. I left J washing up whilst I bussed to the airport. Kerstin’s flight was early and we even managed to catch a direct bus back in time for a few glasses of wine.

I’d spotted the van of some motorhome bloggers on the campsite. Useful chat as they are ahead of us and doing roughly our route in reverse. Some useful overnight tips. https://manvannoplan.co.uk/

The campsite wouldn’t allow a late check out, so we moved 2 bus stops along the road to a perfect lay by.

*Wawel Castle. Until we went in we’d* *no idea* *how large it was*

*Wawel Castle… we thought the way the side extentions were staggered that they must have been toilets.*

*Also* *inside the cathedral… it is a big* *area!*

*A pretty side Chapel. Liked the black* *marble*

*The crypt was the resting place for centuries worth of* *Polish* *Kings* *and* *Bishops.*

*As we’d walked into the castle grounds, we were yel*led at *… NO DOGS. J kindly elected to sit out.*

*Another church and another crypt. This one* *only a few tombs for recent poets, scientists etc.* *Lots of room* *for future Polish* *stars.*

*Jordan proposed to Maddy on this spot in February but he didn’t* *go down on one knee … to* *be fair there* *was snow on the ground.*

*Another church with unusual stain glass. This is the creation.*

*The Basilica in the main market square … one of the largest i*n Europe.

Krakow survived WWI and WW2 so the buildings are original. It truly justifies being labelled one of Europe’s most beautiful cities. There are some appealing museums, such as the Underground and Schindler’s museum. Not to mention the castle rooms. It really does deserve a week … with no dog

Castle and Knights in Shining Armour

Posted on August 17, 2023 by Clunegapyears

16-17/08/2023

J started the day with a mini run. I did Pilates overlooking the dessert … my mat has come out in some lovely locations.

With Kerstin joining us on Friday night, we have delayed visiting some of the main sights, such as Krakow, Auschwitz and the salt mines. It seems disrespectful to call Auschwitz a sight though. So we drove slightly north to pick up some of the Eagles Nest Trail. A line of Middle Ages castles on limestone rocky outcrops, largely ruined during the Swedish invasions during the 1650s. Bet that was news to you, too.

We only visited the first castle we planned to visit, as we spent most of the afternoon waiting for the RAC. Unhappily, Jez just wouldn’t start. We checked what fuses we could access, and then decided we were clueless, so called the RAC in the UK. Who passed us to their EU partner in France. Thence to Poland and then a local mechanic. The longest time between each stage was 50 minutes, and we were kept informed all the way. They were our Knights in Shining Armour. So the moral is, based on our experiences, break down in Poland, Greece or Portugal, but NEVER in France.

Jez kindly obliged us by starting when the mechanic arrived. The old chap laughed and said it was just because he was here … again my German came in useful. We followed the lowloader for 30 mins, breaking all speed limits, to the garage. The boss had a quick look at the engine and tested the battery. All seems well, and we hope it will stay that way! I can only think I’d left the electrics on whilst I plotted the sat nav and the air con drained it. Then, after a couple of hours, the solar panels put enough juice back in. At least, that’s what we hope!

*Ogrodzieniec Castle built into limestone rocks*

*And some of the limestone outcrops! And yes, I did think it* resembled something!!!

*What I particularly liked about this castle is the one-way* *system of stairs* *and walkways* *that takes* *you* *up and* *down* *inside* *to areas of a ruin* *you’d* *never normally access*

Given the time lost to Jez’s tantrum, we aborted our 2nd planned castle and headed to a carpark in the Ojcow National Park, Poland’s smallest.

*Little solar harves*ting *due to the trees but* *bins*, *benches*, a *porta-loo* *and big* *parking* *bays* *for* *big vans.* *Free* *8pm* *till* *8am*, *but* *nearly* £2 *per* *hour* *otherwise!*

*With no one around we* *got the* *Cadac out* *and* *bbq’d* *the marinated* *chicken* … *served with Katsu* *curry sauce.* *I do cook* *properly* *when* *away.*

Black Madonna and a Dessert

Posted on August 15, 2023 by Clunegapyears

15/08/2023

Yesterday we left Wroclaw and drove 3.5hrs to Jasna Gorna, monastery with a black Madonna.

It was a more interesting journey than it should have been. Especially after a busy day.

We drove on an eflow motorway. Up to now, there have been toll booths. I’d downloaded the app, entered our reg, but had no facility to create an account. It just returned the message that under 3.5 tons are free. Jez is most decidedly not under 3.5 tons. An email has since gone to eflow.
A sign appeared on the next motorway … 15km of bumps. The speed limit reduced from 140km to 80. I was lucky to be do 40km in places. It was like an old amusement ride I used to take Maddy as a toddler to, called the cake walk. Basically a walkway rocked and bucked and tried to throw you off.
As we approached Jasna Gora, the roadworks were long and rough. Lots of sections of one way with lights. Raised man holes. And switching across a raised central reservation to the other side … frequently. I have yet to inspect if the contents of my wardrobe have left their rail.
Arriving at the car park, we were lucky to get a space. The car park attendant had me back and forth until I was perfectly on the white line. £16 just to park for 15 hours … dearer than the Karpacz campsite, which had services.

*Roadworks, not fun in the dark last night.*

Last night was supposed to have been dry, but I reckoned I deserved a glass or two after a wander to get a sense of place and to see how the Poles celebrate the Feast of Assumption.

*10s of thousands of people. Families, all ages and groups. Some in festival tents* *and others slept in their cars.* Jasna Gora also had block upon *block of* *accommodation. We’d* *arrived at the largest pilgrimage* *site in all of Poland on its* *busiest* *day!*

My back and sciatica were starting to niggle, so this morning, I did pilates in the shade of the van in the car park. J headed off to attend the 9.30 mass, thinking there would be a live broadcast in the field to the throng of people. It wasn’t. Deciding we’d had enough of crowds, we left with no mass for J and neither of us seeing the black Madonna.

A 2 hour drive back through the roadworks, but leaving the motorway before the cake walk ripples, to the largest dessert in central Europe. Pustynia Bledowska was created due to deforestation. The timber was used in nearby silver and lead mines. It really is a great spot. Locals coming for the view. A good chat with a family and an ice cream seller. 😊

*Our afternoon and overnight parking spot with a view of the dessert. It’s mostly used as a military training ground.*

*Afternoon walk in the cool of the beach* *trees.*

*To 2 small lakes where families were swimming and sun bathing.*

Wroclaw: a history lesson

Posted on August 15, 2023 by Clunegapyears

13-14/08/2023

Leaving the bustle of Karpacz, we motored to Magnolia Park. Sounds like an American TV show? Appropriate, as it was a huge retail mall. There was a Decathalon, but I restrained myself. I don’t like shopping but always find something I most definitely need in outdoor shops. I did make use of both the toilets and Carrefour!

I accosted several people with a gin dobry (hello, not a gin and mixer), and do you speak English? A Russian native speaker with excellent English helped me. I would love to have asked how come she speaks Russian, but I’d already delayed her enough. I downloaded the Jakdojade transport app. It is brilliant. Real-time info on when busses and trams nearby are leaving for your selected destination. And a gps map to help you walk to your stop. It’s a model of how a transport system should work. J, being over 65, was free and each trip was under £1 for me.

After a quick lunch, we went into Wroclaw. No gps.my city downloadable walking tour, despite it being Poland’s 3rd largest city. I asked in the Tourist Information, but none available I was told! I later found an interactive map, which helped guide us. In the meantime, we used the guidebook and tried to identify the main sites. We ended up on the original city originally an island, which houses the ecclesiastical area. Nice.

*Ostrow Tumski where* *the bishopric* *was* *formed in 1000*. *The city* *moved in 12*92

*Kids wandering around with maps and stickers (and parents!)* *Dwarf hunting. They were created as an amusing dig at the idiosyncrasies of Communism and now represent significant events.*

Desperate for a sit down (and pee) we sought out a cafe. No. 1 choice was aborted … 20 mins to get a menu and then no sign of staff to take the order. We left! No. 2 choice was a gem. After my first Apperol of the trip, 2 actually, we decided to eat there. The young girls were lovely and we had taken root.

*J’s delicious salmon on black quinoa and citrus notes.*

*Always a risk that* *duck breast* *will not* *be tender …* *this was perfect* *with raspberry* *and* *rhubarb* *notes!!*

On Monday we wandered a few more sights, before brunch.

*Hansel and Gretel houses, as they’re holding hands!*

*Eggs royale for brunch for both of us.*

We joined a ‘free / tip what you think’ walking tour with the focus on Wroclaw Jews and WW2. Local Lucas had read history and been a tour guide for 11 years. Excellent English and possibly one of the best walking tours we’ve done. This part of Poland had been German until 1948. It had the 3rd largest Jewish population in Germany. The town was heavily pro Nazi. After Krystallnacht, half the Jews fled. The remainder ended up at extermination camps. Treatment of Jews in Wroclaw swung from inclusion to persecution over the previous centuries. And even more sadly persecution in 1968. The economy was in freefall, and people couldn’t afford bread. The government had cast blame. It landed on the Jews. A number were allowed to get passports and leave Poland. Only 54 years ago!

Not until 1945 did Wroclaw receive a few Allied bombs but was ‘given’ to the Russians to invade. Women and children fled to the hills in the south, but 90,000 perished in the January hard winter of 1945. Men and boys were forced to stay and hold the city. They were more scared of the Nazi mayor who publicly executed any dissenters. Wroclaw fell after very heavy bombing 2 days after Berlin.

Post war, the borders were re-drawn again. Poland effectively shifted west, losing eastern land to the Ukraine and gaining German land to the west. Wholesale populations moved. Lovely Lucas explained his grandmother had been displaced from what is now the Ukraine. With the shortage of housing, they shared an apartment with Germans for 5 years, until the Germans were given 2 hours notice by the Russian police to pack and join a train, taking them to Germany. Under Communist rule, Poles could buy farms and apartments for about 10% of their value. Lucas said, like elsewhere, young Poles now can’t afford to purchase their own home.

*Site of the burning of 48 Jews in 1483.*

*All the Communist era neon signs in a hip alley. Lucas explained he remembers some* *of them in situ* *and being* *the only colour* *in a grey* *city.*

*The synagogue designed to blend in.* *The square* *was the* *site of Krystallnacht*.

Too Busy For Us

Posted on August 12, 2023 by Clunegapyears

10-12/08/2023

On a campsite on the edge of Karpacz. Only £16pn, no EHU. 3 nights. On arrival I deployed the twin tub.

*Just us and one other the first night.*

*By Saturday evening, cheek by jowl. The German roof tent has been invaded by a Polish group the far end and the latest arrival is on their other flank. Somehow, we have to navigate through it a*ll to the stairs to the washrooms. Glad we’re leaving tomorrow! *A lot of sirens going off too, competing with the noise from the group.*

We walked into town. Busy. But found a restaurant with a small queue. Great supper, each dish around £7.50. Wine imported from France … small bottles of cab sav by Paul Maas at £3.50 each. Vodka or beer would’ve been cheaper.

*J had minced pork roll around bacon, onion and mushroom.* *With a* ‘*delicate’* *sauce.*

*I ordered pork loin with mushroom* *sauce*. *Actually, it was pepper sauce (offered elsewhere on the menu)*, *with* *mushrooms thrown in. Tast*y though.

*As well as these fountains, Karpacz offers numerous museums such a Lego and toys.* We *won’t* be *going!*

Yesterday was a quiet day. We needed it after all the socialising before leaving the UK and then long drives followed by busy days. We managed a walk into town to find an ATM and a light lunch … a soup, a huge plate of pate, and 2 soft drinks for £13.10. BBQ in the evening and early to bed despite the snoozy day.

Today, we elected to NOT pay the £16 each to ride the cable car up and down. Being Saturday, the top of the mountain paths would’ve been mobbed anyway. Instead, we elected to walk up to the Vang stave Church. Imported from Noway, where there used to be 400+, now only 40 remain. Rebuilt here in 1842 … no nails. This was busy, so we just had an ice cream. Lovely lunch on the return nearing town.

*Then up a small granite hill.* *(S)he’ll* be coming around the mountain.

*View from granite mountain … impossible to get a shot without other people. Busy.*

*The tower was an addition to assist against strong winds.*

*We didn’t go in. There was a queue for tickets. Then a queue to* *get in.* *Too busy.*

I don’t know why people said I wouldn’t like Polish food. These crispy potato pancakes with rice pork goulash we so delicious, I nearly ate the lot. Interestingly, J had white wine … from Chile … adding fuel to my theory that Poland is too far north for decent wine

Then a tad more laundry, cos there’s water, a van clean. And an evening gawping at the tightly packed campers … the other side of us is empty, so why??? It is a nice area, but just too popular.

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

Category Archives: Poland