12/10/2023
Enver Hoxha had a plan for 207,000 bunkers to be built. 168,000 were constructed. Just north of Tirana is the large bunker built for Hoxha’s government.
106 rooms over 5 floors. The concept came from a visit to N Korea in 1964. Built from 1972 and ready by ’78. Enver Hoxha participated in two practice runs, but never stayed. Quite who did he think he would rule after a nuclear or chemical attack?
We drove on to Gjirokaster for 2 nights.
11/10/2023
Two nights in an apartment very central to sites. And thank goodness, it was a pleasant apartment. Nicely decorated and spacious. But why, so far, are none of apartments providing tea towels?
We did a walking tour but it was not up to much compared to those we did on the PELL trip. We pretty much knew everything from the guidebook and web. The guide wasn’t a historian and got a few facts wrong. Kindly, we (I) didn’t call her out on it. But it’s definitely a sanitised history. Wonder what is taught in schools? For instance … They revere King Zog and omit to recall that he ‘removed’ political enemies and fled in 1939, taking all the country’s gold. She said that during atheism, the religious clerics were not imprisoned or murdered. Etc!
Our guide proudly told us that a 10 tower sky scraper construction project was under way. Each to house shops, restaurants, offices and apartments. We couldn’t see the point when other infrastructure projects may help more people and stimulate the economy. Do we resorted to the good old Internet … articles state a high rise sky line is the vision of the PM and most of the bids to build, were won by people close to him. Ho hum.
On being asked about the largest Albanian export, we were told it is people. Again, we googled this. People had no support during Covid 19. Many used their savings to survive. Sold up. Many had already previously lost everything in a pyramid scheme in 1996-97. That collapse amounted to half the GDP!!! Affected about two thirds of the population. Rioting, 2000 people died, and the government collapsed. 30% of current GDP is from remittances from abroad – families receiving money from relatives abroad. The official minimum wage is €364 – June ’23. Petrol is €1.98 litre. Food is not cheap and accounts for 40% the monthly spend.
It’s not surprising that in 2022, 46,460 left Albania. 10.5% up on ’21. And 36,000 are young people. Stats from the Albanian institute of statistics, so likely to be conservative.
Interesting article on how many end up in the UK. Quite shocking how few UK asylum applications are processed p.a. compared to France. https://www.bbc.com/news/explainers-63473022
Albania is the 7th largest cultivator of cannabis worldwide. The market developed post the fall of communism. Oportinism and lack of civic order. We saw a huge number of newish Range Rovers, Mercs and Audis, as well as older ones. Quite a few with British plates. Maddy said all her friends’ drug dealers in the UK are Albanian.
Since the Russian invasion of Ukraine, there has been increased EU investment as Albania is seen as another geographical buffer. Albania has been keen to join the EU and is making good progress to meet the conditions … apparently!
Anyway, tirade over … back to the tour.
Lunch near the New (rebuilt) Market; we did not select sheep’s head or intestines!
I left J nanny napping and visited the Museum of Leaves. The main office for eavesdropping and spying on residents and foreign visitors by the organisation Sigurimi. Equipment came from Yugoslavia, Russia and China until they fell out. Then, Albania had to buy from the west, with hard currency.
There’s a shortage of central green spaces in Tirana. They’ve been built on. But early evening we walked to a large park south of the city. We needed to breathe. It was dusk, but it was buzzing.
10/10/2023
This ferry ride is rated as one of the world’s most beautiful. It certainly bests Gerainger Fjord in Norway. The one I’d booked is a car ferry, and tourists use this route to go walking in the mountains or drive into Kosovo. Had, we had the time, we would have forked out the additional £45 ish to take the car one way. Each leg is 2 hours, plus delays due to chaotic loading. Good value for the return ticket for 2 foot passengers at £33.
A few years ago, we’d planned to take Jez and drive the NE. Whilst smaller motorhomes did make the trip, I don’t think my nerves could’ve taken the reverse across a metal plank.
We then drove the return 32km crap road back to tarmac and onto Tirana. We thought the driving the worst ever before. This was the worst worst ever. Tirana is overpopulated, high density, and manic. Everyone is in a tearing hurry. It was another underground car park! But J watched me inch down, whilst the car park attendant shouted at me to hurry up as another car was behind me. Who incidentally was hitting his horn too! I’m afraid I shouted back when the attendant shouted in my face … not a proud moment. And the waiter at supper tried to short change us. Not sure we’re going to like Tirana.
07-08/10/2023
Although, I think they are pronounced the same. We had booked an apartment with parking. I’d messaged our height with the roofbox, in case the parking was underground. No problem! Of course, it was underground and of course, we didn’t fit! Resulting in a very steep reverse back up the slope in the heavily laden car! Street parking it was, then. Our host assured us that Albania is safe and car theft is rare. Not what we’d heard, but perhaps all the ageing Mercs were stolen in W Europe, not here! We were more worried about the fact that we had to leave stuff in it. We checked on it periodically. But he was right, and the car and our stuff were safe.
In the apartment, we hooked up to the wifi and watched the England game. And I deployed the washing machine.
A no drive day to wander Shkoder and purchase a sim … £14.75 for a month 10gb. Whilst all the accommodation we’ve booked has wifi, we need it when out and about, as much for Google translate!
We didn’t get far down the main street before we stopped for a boozy salad. No alcohol in the salad, but lots in us. In the evening, after a nanny nap, we found the other end of the long main street, with lots of stray and over friendly dogs. And people. So many folk out. Had a rubbish grill meal but chatted to an Australian Slovenian couple who told us of their fave places for our return trip. Yes, we’ve decided that we really ought to do Albania properly. So after our 10 days in Corfu with the Aged Ps, we come back. Got the month on a sim now!
Leaving Shkoder town, we headed for Rozafa Castle. But the road kept shrinking, and cars just kept coming the other way. We valued our car panels and nerves, so we aborted.
Roads fine to our next stop, but driving not. We driven in Paris during rush hour. Milan, Naples and Sicily. Never ever have we experienced under taking, over taking, and general free for all at roundabouts and junctions. Throw in the cyclists, pedestrians, and the odd cow or donkey who all think they have right of way. The government has imposed very slow speed limits, which everyone ignores. And a LOT of speed bumps.
We arrived, car panels intact, to stop at the Mesi bridge built in 1770, one of the longest Ottoman bridges. Reinforced with additional arches (13 of them), so architecturally significant. Despite the river being dry now, there are huge river bank defences, so there must be a torrential flow after rain.
We aborted the next castle too, as didn’t like the path up. So it wasn’t to be a castles day! According to the guidebook, the Ottomans had destroyed it, so it was probably little to see. And what there would have been, would have been overgrown like the path.
We then headed up to Koman. Another interesting road. I use the term loosely. 32km of bits of tarmac with lots of disintegration and subsidence. A very slow drive but lovely views. Would have been great for wild camping in the van. Overnight was a hotel in Koman and a fab meal at a local restaurant. So much food, it was also lunch the next day. Bonus, as we’d been told only a sandwich shop at ferry port.
30/09-07/19/2023
We drove fast to Sangatte which gave us a day in hand to rest before our tunnel. I did enquire about bringing our crossing forward a day but that would have cost us a further £70. We managed to hold back from spending that cost and possibly more at the near fish restaurant. We ate up the last of our tinned food 😔
I sorted and bagged the food cupboards and did admin. We walked along the beach and found an ice cream. We also ran … me reluctantly but J had put the scales out and they guilted me into it.
Back in Blighty we booked Jez onto Woodlands Farm in Chichester for 3 nights. But only stayed there one night. Mum cooked for us and we stayed over. I should mention that she also dealt with load after load of laundry … from mattress protectors to rugs etc. The house had our stuff drying off every door. Dad had tried to start both cars before we arrived the 12 year Merc started immediately. The 18 month Greek Vitara was dead as a dodo. The lithium battery starter pack got it going and we drove it up to London on Sunday. If there was anything else wrong with it, we wanted to know before we set off!
With both cars parked next to Jez, I emptied Jez and made 4 piles outside. 1. Not to be used until Crete and going in the roofbox. 2. Not to be used until we get to Albania and Corfu going in the boot. 3. Used on our journey to Albania, small 12v fridge, some clothes, picnic equipment and Corrie! 4. Stuff for storage at the Aged Ps, such as the twin tub. Then I loaded it all … was taught to pack by my father!
On Tuesday we both finished cleaning Jez and took him down to storage in Andover. With a list of repairs … top of the list is the fridge / freezer and boiler not working on gas. Mum fed us again and we finished the fruity vodka we’d brought!
Up at 0400 to catch our return ferry. Ferry this leg as their flexi ticket is about the same price as the Tunnel normal one.
Border crossings were all quick. And so quick into Albania, we weren’t even stamped out of Montenegro. Fortunately, the Greek car’s green card covers Montenegro and Albania. But not BiH, so we used the new bridge around Dubrovnik. Driving down the Dalmatian coast is stunning. BUT so slow. Most of Montenegro is limited to 50kmph. And so we are now in a new to us country for a week … Albania.
Clune Gap Years 