Back to the Middle Atlas

Posted on December 3, 2024 by Clunegapyears

29/11/24 – Another Friday Foxtrot Uncle

The coast generally isn’t grabbing us. There’s only so much surfing you can watch. But we’ve been spoilt by the Greek, especially Cretan coast. Some pretty and interesting towns, notably Essaouria, Oualidia and Casablanca. We didn’t fancy Rabat, the capital, so back to the hills it is.

Three nights in an apt in Beni Mellal booked. Yay a washing machine; our bedding is needing changing, plus a big sack of clothes. Apt was more than we are used to paying but it has a washing machine. No campsites near here either. However, when we arrived … no machine. Apparently, it broke and no one used it! But it’s in the description … I’ve sent the owner the laundrette receipt. No response so far, but I’ll pursue through Airbnb. Only €15 but the apt wasn’t as clean as it should be either.

On the route we stopped at Bejaad / Boujad. A pilgrimage town with shrines to fighters for independence etc. And known for pile carpets. BUT we forgot it is prayer Friday. Nearly all the shops were closed and we couldn’t tell the mausoleums apart from the mosques.

*We got lost in the old narrow streets which aren’t mapped in Organic Maps. We worked on the principle of 4 sides of a square although the odd dead end complicated matters.*

*All that was open but we did find a cafe.*

*View from the cafe – memorial to someone from the fight for independence from the French*

30/11/24 – Beni Mellal Bonus

J has a cold, think it’s a proper cold, not dust inflammation so the walks I’d planned will be much curtailed. A local day, including the pharmacy. And the two laundry trips. Oh, and Carrefour … will eat in the next few days.

*Amazing how I’ve learned to find patisserie with dine in!* *And it’s open tomorrow!*

We drove up to the Kaabah overlooking the town. Not high expectations but found the end of the rainbow. Well, the source of the city’s wealth … water. Ain Asserdoun, means Mule Spring. A farmer blocked up the source and demanded a water ransom a few times too many. The townsfolk followed him on his mule to the source and have protected it ever since. Apparently, the castle was built in early C19 to protect it. The build was facilitated by a human chain passing up the materials.

*Just below the source, is a well irrigated water garden.*

*Rather pleased with this pic* *on a phone*

*The Kaabah protecting the town and its water*

P.s. I’m sure pyjama top has shrunk … blame the driers at the laundry!” Definitely not the cake!

O1/12/24 – Kasba Tadla

Ok, so the patisserie greeted us like regulars!

Once breakfast sorted, we drove to Kasba Tadla. Supposed to be a cascade but more of a dribble and slimey pools from the hydro wall. Time of year I guess.

*Locals just setting up the typical street market.* *We’ve noticed Moroccans have a slow start, things don’t get going till gone 11.*

*All the gates had been sealed, but I eventually found the entry one. The inside was a wasteland, bar a mosque*

*I headed to the French cemetery, but a local said it was locked, the view across to the hill didn’t look inspiring* … *another wasteland*

Corrie attracted a vocal canine entourage. One lady and later a man helped to deter the strays. Nice of them. Tbh it’s been a regular occurrence. Other than one petrol pump attendant trying to put premium diesel in the car, the Moroccans have been super helpful.

J didn’t have any energy so sat whilst I walked. Rather than go onto another village nearby, I drove the poorly one back to bed.

*Too many hair ideas in my FB feed. J described it as interesting. Mum said she knew what her father would say – must ask her but I suspect I won’t like it.*

Casablanca

Posted on November 30, 2024 by Clunegapyears

26/11/24

Using gps my city app we clocked up 12 km walking the city. We did both the old city and most of the new city walks. J achieved 22,000 steps compared to my 16,000. He’s a smaller stride, of course!

We used a small car park near the big mosque … 7.5 hours and only €1. Yet our first drink stop was tourist prices at €6 for two milky coffees.

Casa is definitely worth a visit and we nearly didn’t bother. Interesting architecture as new is art deco. The first French governor decided to transform Casablanca into a premier city so massive building works, which are still going on now. As we drove in we passsed housing / business / leisure development after development… all promising the perfect life. And ready customers as folk flea the dry barren hinterland. It would be interesting to see the demographic of city v country 20 years ago and now. J read that the European & African Investment Banks are heavily backing all the apartment block and road construction. J had dealings with the former in his bridge days … tough cookies and only invest for a good return.

The Mohammed II mosque is the largest in Africa and depending on the internet source, the 2nd / 5th / 17th largest in the world. Either way, it can accommodate over 208,000 people. Mohammed paid some. Domestic and international gifts and then “forced” public subscription for the rest. Despite only being finished in 1993, the rebars in the concrete corroded within 5 years and it had to undergo restoration – $50m. All materials are Moroccan, except Italian pillars and Murano chandeliers. We couldn’t even walk around the outside. A local explained that poor Moroccans from the country had been smoking in the grounds. This disrespect meant visitors could only get close when it is opened for prayer.

*My fave pic! It was built on former water slide* *site and rises out of the sea.*

Of course we had to pose at Rick’s Cafe. Actually the brain child of an ex USA foreign office official and opened 2004. Their web site has a whole video on the dress code … flip flops and sandals are a NO.

*Lots of art deco buildings, needing different levels of renovation*

*A mosque and medina wall … it’s not all new*

*The catholic cathedral, redeployed as a sports / arts* / *activity space. Fairly ugly frontage but I couldn’t get over the size of it when we saw the side view from the neighbouring park.*

*Skate, roller blade and pars cours park. Not a single child with a helmet, knee or elbow pads. Not seen a single bicycle helmet or lights either.*

*Trafalgar Square equivalent, except London had banned the pigeons! There is always a mad bird lady.*

27-28/11/24 – To Exchange or not to Exchange

… that is definitely the question. We are in the process of selling our Devon house. A chain of 3. All wanted the deals done for a pre Christmas move. But our buyer’s solicitor didn’t get / understand the memo. But we sat tight not wanting to commit to accommodation or moving too far from Marrakesh airport in case I needed to fly to the UK to clear the house. I needed to be back in Marrakesh as Kerstin arrives on 10th and family on 13th to help me into official middle age … 60! The time window passed so I got on with planning the next 2 weeks.

Two no drive days … we pottered. Walked the sea front. Ate ice cream. Hand washing. Even got the Pilates mat out – me, and running shoes -J.

*The rocky / sandy coast at Dar Bouazza*

North towards Casablanca

Posted on November 25, 2024 by Clunegapyears

25/11/24 – El Jadida

Salt pans and lots of agriculture as we left Oualidia. Incredibly lush. We didn’t see the oyster beds though; we’d have had to do a little boat trip.

Spontaneous stop in the centre of El Jadida. Built by the Portuguese who destroyed it as they left. Lovely walls we could walk atop. Sadly the underground cistern has been closed a while. I think part of the roof fell in. And I suspect will be closed a good while longer. They were only discovered in 1916 when a shop keeper broke through a wall.

The town had a nice feel.

*One of the entrance gates and the side of the cistern*

*Spot the palm tree that isn’t a palm tree! So much for making it blend in!*

Once on the motorway, doing 70 mph, with a full load, our mpg averaged 62! More than twice what Jez would have been!!

I’d read about a campsite just S of Casablanca in Dar Bouazza. It’s basically a market garden with a small camping area. Yoga lessons 3 x a week too. I thought the ground would be too hard, but we were directed to a corner. A bit wedged inbetween existing campers, one of whom didn’t look too thrilled. But the pegs went in easily and we’ve our own private garden off to the side. Facilites are basic, but at least it’s an European loo!

Essouria and Oualidia

Posted on November 24, 2024 by Clunegapyears

19/11/24 – Hear Here

Result. James can hear. Well mostly. We’ve gone from the repeat 3 times every time to one repeat every 3 times! On the dot of 9.00 we telephoned and got an appointment with an audiologist for 11.00. We had tried 2 drs previously so knew we needed a specialist. Unfortunately, he didn’t syringe ears – a mix up of my French and the receptionist’s English. But sent us over the road to an ENT consultant. Different syringing system here. Suction then tweezers followed by a camera to check his ear drums with the pic on a big screen. I got to watch. A bit gross but fascinating.

On to Sidi Kaouki. Recommend Camping le Soleil by a few folk. The owner seemed surprised we had a tent, which we managed to erect largely between showers. And the pegs went in due to the day’s rain. Walk on the beach and gin o’clock.

*Nice individual pitches with a little privacy*

20/11/24 – Sidi Kaouki

A no drive day. Rare. Lazy morning. Walked the beach into town and beyond. Salad lunch. Admin afternoon and back into town for a mixed grilled fish platter. Different vibe in the evening – the centre was full of surf bodies returning hire boards and crap music blaring. Not our scene. OK, so a little jealous of the taut surf bodies!

*Camels, horses and quad bikes tearing up the beach. But it’s big enough for all*

21/11/24 – Eassouria

Like like like. Hadn’t really expected to as we’ve not fallen in love with this Atlantic coast. Guess we’re spoilt with the fabulous Cretan beaches and coves. But Essouria is not just about waves and surfing.

It has history. It was created in the C7 BC by the Phoenicians. A manufacturing centre for purple dye in C1. C15 saw the Portuguese established a trading and military bridgehead. The walled town was built in 1760 by Mohammed III, so Moroccan. Sitting adjacent to the European designed port and fortifications.

*Fabulous fish market. Some stalls cooking sardines and prepping local oysters*

We wandered, bought gifts. Had an ice cream. Balked at totally inflated restaurant prices and then found an inexpensive gem. Liked so much we will stay another night in Sidi Kaouki and drive the 25 mins back in tomorrow.

*The rocks and islands distinguish Essaouria from other Atlantic coast places we’ve seen.*

*We often have the debate* *about whether we prefer a sea or mountain view*. *My conclusion, if I can’t have both is, sea view, but it’s got to have islands, rocks and sea traffic. Luckily we’ve both in Crete.*

22/11/24 – Essaouria Take 2

Who said “let them eat cake?” Dickens or Mr Kipling? We had copious cake for brekkie because K had watched “the British bake-off” the night before – the power of tv! Yummy start to the day

*5 a day??? No, that’s supposed to be veggies!*

Sadly breakfast had been too filling so we didn’t return to the taverna of yesterday. Stop off at Carrefour. K found the pork counter so supper was chicken & lardons salad. First pork since the UK.

23/11/24 – Oualidia

Tent down and on the road in good time – after a few hours we arrived at a very smart apartment in Oualidia. A good walk to the nearby lagoon – a very green area in spite of the water shortage. Stopped for a drink at the local taverna but they didn’t really understand us so we walked on – gin o’clock at the apartment.

*A real sense of tranquility and freshness*

*I guess there is more money using fishing boats to take tourists along the lagoon to the oyster beds, which Oualidia is known for*

24/11/24 – In search of a fish lunch

Up at the crack of dawn – well, 8:30 our dawn… Breakfast and we set off to the lagoon again all along the shore until we came to water – needed to go uphill past a heavily guarded estate – a soldier said it was a royal palace – google said it has been dilapidated for 50 years! One of the palaces that costs $1m per day to keep going?

*The royal palace – such a fabulous location. Such a shame it’s unused and falling into disrepair*

*Part of the 5* hotel here €600 pn – closest we got was to walk across its beach*.

Lunch at restaurant with lots of local people – always a good recommendation. K had the best fish so far in Morocco – I had excellent pizza – starters – fish salad for K and mine was cheese with tomato and pesto sauce. We rolled uphill to our residence – soporiffically…

Casablanca area tomorrow – but avoiding Rick’s Bar – hugely expensive anecdotally – “Play it again Sam…”

Tafrout to Sidi Ifni

Posted on November 18, 2024 by Clunegapyears

14/11/24 – K and Car Maintenance

I have been dyeing K’s hair for about 100 years – slight exaggeration…. But in many countries – now for Morroccodye ! With the Lions Head looking down. After but not because of – I developed Sahara dust cough which leads to some lack of energy.

We drove into town and parked for a car wash – €5. Does K need 2 more pairs of shoes? Yes!

Dinner was in a small restaurant attended by 6 cats! Good food and early bed…

*All stalls have the chaps hand making leather shoes. I couldn’t resist.*

*Decorating my 4th pair of Moroccan shoes*

*Salad, soft drinks and 2x chicken, pea and potato stew €8.50! Joined by 6 cats. Corrie just coped.*

15/11/24 – Surf’s Up

Tent dismantled and on the road to Sidi Infi – surf town – campsite ok – ground hard as the rock of Cashel… local boulders replaced pegs. Lovely sunset…

*Stones in the ground were bending the tent pegs, so we used rocks for the guy ropes*

*Fabulous light quality to the amazing sunset glow*

16/11/24 – Camel Souk

A camel market? Do we need one? Not even a dromedary one hump (Brian) – more food sheep goats markets than camels – Corrie bemused but calm.

*No auctioneer, individual negotiations*

*Cafes around the outside with men squatting drinking tea. Fabulous fresh produce, but so much of it; can’t believe it will all be sold*

A beach walk and wander of Sidi Ifni revealed we had exhausted the local delights. According to our surfer neighbours, surfs not good for a couple of days, so we won’t bother learning! We will move on tomorrow.

17/11/24 – Arch and Agadir

The arch at Sidi Ifni is the most photographed here. We failed to find it. But I think I walked across the top. J declined as sheer drops either side.

A stop at Agadir to buy yet another Decathlon air bed. That’s 2 Vango airbeds we’ve got through. Rubbish. I’ve still got airbeds that we used as children, but in Crete. Also managed to spend €85 on 5 bottles of wine, 6 lager and 1 gin. The gin was the cheapest on offer at €25 / ltr and made in Casablanca. Fortunately Schweppes tonic is available.

Overnight in a lovely apt. Laundry all done. J is completely deaf at the moment. Doctors don’t syringe ears, so we’ve identified a few to call. We have booked the apt for a further night, but our charming host told me it’s a national holiday. Nothing will be open. Independence Day. Parades, I asked? Only in Rabat and then on TV. The audiologist will have to wait a day.

18/11/24 – Cable Car & Beach Resort Tourism

A cable car journey – again! To the Kasbah – Corrie wasn’t sure about the wobbly movement… I tried not to think of Richard Burton fighting on top of a cable car in “Where Eagles Dare” – in snow!