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Marrakesh Mania

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12/12-16/12/2024

Check out day after a week in a lovely apartment. Our host liked us so much she’d offered us a proper home cooked breakfast, sadly we had to refuse due to time pressures.

Kerstin and I took a full car load from our apt to the Riad, which we’ve booked for my 60th birthday. Gated entrance. Long driveway. Staff assisted with unloading. We didn’t have time to look around but the vibes were good. Back to the apt to collect Corrie and James and onto the airport to greet family, all arriving on the same flight.

Aged Ps were first through at the airport as assisted.

I took the Aged P’s and Maddy in the car whilst the others went in a mini bus. The Riad had organised all our taxis / minibuses whilst with them.

On arrival we were given a tour of the Riad and chose our rooms. Two buildings around a large pool. Huge suites. Heaters on. Lots of break out areas.

The Riad had lots to do. Louis and Ellie both plunged in the pool. Then straight out. Four of us had a massage. Gran did well in the pétanque competition. Clare gave up on tennis as her knees gave up. Table tennis. And Chris had a minor meltdown on the mini golf. Lots of board games. The Riad was so relaxing, even the next generation weren’t bothered about spending time in the city centre.

We had booked self catering with 2 evening meals. We hadn’t expected a full time staff. He was the gardener, who seemed to work evenings so we only were ever aware of his shadow. She was a poppet who was in charge of housekeeping. She had 2 ladies to support her cooking the meals and breakfast every day. Our rooms were made up every morning… a bit of an embarrassment on the first morning for the untidy amongst us! We couldn’t have booked anywhere better.

Trips were a walking tour around Marrakesh. We hired our own guide so we could factor in a tea and pee stop. Informative.

And Marjorelle Gardens. Restored by Yves St Laurent. Expensive tickets. And so busy you have to follow a set route. Extremely disappointing. The YSL museum of dresses was one room only. Nowhere in the gardens to sit and ponder. Too busy. The Berber museum was cold in its presentation. Not good value. Wish I’d know as we would have taken the family to Anima gardens which was fabulous.

I was made a real fuss of for my birthday. Gifts, which I’d not expected, as folk coming over was gift enough. I am truly blest with my family. We had the Riad cook for us … best of Moroccan food.

We had two meals out in Marrakesh. Shams rooftop was very good with professional service. But the Clock Cafe was truly rubbish food and service. Wish we’d booked all evening meals at the Riad.

On the 17th I took Kerstin for an early flight. The family left the Riad at 12.30. J and I set off mid morning.

Just fabulous.

More Marrakesh

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11th December 2024

J stayed in the apt with Corrie as he is preparing a talk to give in Crete.

The 5* La Mamounia hotel allows non staying guests to wander around admiring the decor and gardens, which were created by the founder of the Marjorelle Gardens. I fancied the tasting menu at €120, but settled with a €5 homemade ice cream
https://mamounia.com/fr/?utm_medium=google&utm_source=MyBusiness
I managed to leave my phone in their toilets. Of course, there, it was handed in.

In La Mamoudia hotel gardens

The Saadian tombs were walled up and left as I guess destroying your predecessors ancestors brings bad luck. Opened to the public in 2017. Some lovely plaster work, which has some parts unusually picked out with coloured paint.

Saadian Tombs with some lovely plasterwork

We wove our way to the tanneries. A self appointed guide explained that the small tanneries were right for Arab but left for Berber. Not sure about this, but he did guide us to the main cooperative. We could see men cleaning the hides and the carpet covered dying pits.

Many more small tannaries than Fez and the market area around is much more authentic than the touristy souk

A shared lunch of chicken brochette and omelette Berber. Big booze shop on the way home … the family arrive tomorrow! Yay.

Spices and Earthquake

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11th December 2024

We headed out to Tin Mal mosque, hoping it wasn’t hideously touristy like the Ourika valley. Kerstin had visited Marrakesh twice before, but not beyond. Tin Mal is of the two mosques open to non Muslims. With planned stops on the way. Of course things rarely go to plan. This was one of those days where things totally exceed the expectations. And led to grave reflections.

Stop 1 Asni for coffee. Hijacked by two Berber who showed us to the patisserie, then spice shops. The main one was a tiny and narrow shop where Kerstin’s orders for spices were ground up. A really authentic experience. What Kerstin saved on the spices, we both lost on the jewellery we were “encouraged” to buy. Both explained that their houses had been destroyed by the September 23 earthquake and were now living in tents.

An authentic spice ordering. Everything from dried mace to turmeric and galangal

We left the main road to find a salt mine, but aborted.

The road disintegrated. It had been built in 1930 by the French and we suspect not improved since. A major over haul. Over 40 km of rocks removal to widen. Stones being tipped into the valley. So many earth moving equipment. A very slow drive. We had thought we may go onto Tizi N’Test pass after the mosque, but not at this snails pace.

Good scenery and a picnic stop
Humbling to pass modular huts and tents for homeless families affected by the September 2023 earthquake

Onto the mosque. As we pulled up, our jaws dropped. It’s a shell. With walls shored up by scaffolding. A young man approached us. He’d been a mosque guide. He gave us the history. And more. His brother in law died in the earthquake. Leaving 4 small children. His sister now lives in Marrakesh. Nearly all the villagers now live in tents, on what used to be the motorhome overnight parking. Apparently, quality tents came from the UK. But all, and the plastic coverings, are degrading with the sun. Tourism and animals were the sources of income, but no open Mosque and no shelters for the animals. The government is managing all the emergency aid, but it is slow coming through. Materials and labour are expensive. Very little evidence of rebuilding. Our guide showed us the small footprint where he will rebuild his house. One day. We would not have gone to see the post earthquake hardship had we known / done better research, but hopefully we helped the men in Asni and our guide in Tin Mal, a little. We left our tent, which the guide said he would give to his parents.

Only part of the outside walls remain
One of the rubble piles
Only 6k from the epicentre and very cold at night. No one ever expected a quake in the mountains

Dark by the time we got home. Too late to cook. So stopped at an authentic locals place. Choose and buy your meat from the butcher. The restaurant cooks it.

Marrakesh

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07/12/24 – Gueliz the New Town

New Town lived up to its name – but very pleasant. Some greenery for Corrie to wee in – and the same coffee shop twice for a break, helped with auto logging into the WiFi.

Another Bake Off bake: Paris Brest. Delicious
The only building we saw of significance: the opera / ballet / theatre – impressive
The train station
The Jnane el Harti gardens were leafy, well irrigated and tranquille
Not a patch on the architecture of the new Casablanca

08/11 – Marrakesh Introduction Walk

This good self guided city introduction walk was about 7 km.

Lots of souks – the inevitable coffee stop. A bit too crowded for us. The most tourists we’ve seen anywhere. Added in are mopeds zooming and weaving through the narrow streets.

Kooutoubia mosque: built in 1147. Nice park for Corrie out the back of it
Wooden scaffolding and collapsed buildings. Cleaned up but still witness to last year’s September earthquake
Place Jemaa el Fna . Past monkeys and snake charmers. But don’t take a pic, as you’ll have to pay for it! Need to put a load of coins in our pockets. The wild dog followed Corrie for a while – tagged so neutered, and friendly

Stopped for late lunch on the way back to the apartment – excellent – K had chicken skewers and I had cheese burger with drinks for €10. About half the price of the tourist restaurants. No need for dinner…

09/12/24 – Nature created and destroyed

Jardins Anima

An early start – I walked Corrie at 5.5 centigrade! Brass monkey weather! We drove through dense fog to Garden Anima – watching the commuters pouring into Marrakesh from the opposite direction. The garden was amazing and Corrie was allowed in – just freezing cold and we had no extra clothes layers. Lots of cacti, water features, hammocks, tree sculptures and excellently maintained. A real treat!

The gardens opened in 2010, created by Andre Hellier as a place to make people smile. And they did. Really enjoyed just wandering the narrow paths to see what was around the corner.

Ourika valley

The afternoon went downhill in an uphill sort of way… up a valley in search of waterfalls. The track was through tatty cafes and shops with not nice wares and lots of rubbish – unpleasant really. We saw 3 places we could have dressed in Berber costume and had our photo taken. So much crap commerce, it was actually hard to see the river. The final straw was badly and boldly painted rocks at the first waterfall. Soldiers insisted that K delete an innocent photo. Time to about turn and get the hell out of there. Driving back down the valley, we swerved at least 30 times avoiding men and boys trying to get us to park and eat.

Back to the apartment via a cheese and crackers lunch in our not ancient Merc and to reflect on our day of nature created and destroyed.

10th December – Kerstin & Marrakesh

I collected Kerstin from the airport. She managed to smuggle more than her wine quota in by telling customs that she was travelling with the man behind!

Always a welcome visitor when she comes laden with white chocolate!

Back to our lovely apt for lunch. Then we had a wander in Marrakesh. J nobly drowned in cokes whilst K and I went into the Medersa, university accommodation, and then the Bahia palace.

The Ben Youssef Medersa: Koranic school accommodation and prayer rooms for 900 students. Built mid C14 and rebuilt C16. Very similar to the one I visited in Fez.
The much later, late C19, Bahia palace. Using Moroccan materials and craftsmen. I particularly admired the painted wooden ceilings.
Kerstin’s new money making scam. Get punters to pay to stroke Corrie. She earned 5MAD!

Ouzoud, Source and Natural Bridge

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4th December 2024 – Imi N’ifri natural stone bridge

“An hour and a half each way just to see a bridge!! ” said my daughter. But it was worth it. Amazing stalagmites, which looked to be made of dirt. We approached from the top, which still involved lots of steps. Dispensed with the guide that tried to tell me that as it’s dangerous, the government states all visitors need a guide. BS! Non, merci after 20 times finally got the message through. J aborted due to the narrow ledge and sheer drop. Vertigo. I went most of the way in and returned to him. Then descended even more steps to the lower end and walked up and under
Definitely worth it. It is spectacular.


A quick stop in Demnate to buy chicken and veg for chicken tagine cooked back at the tent.

5th December Ouzoud Source

Not far from the campsite is the source of the magnificent Cascades Ouzoud. But there were no cafes open there so we headed straight out. We returned to Ouzoud for omelette brunch.


Finally back to the Source. We walked up the gorge. A couple of streams joined. A merest trickle. Till all dry. Tea sat in the sun on the return leg.

Some water
Little water
No water

We cleaned the tent, as tomorrow it will be taken down for the last time on this trip. A good investment at £225, even if the quality of Vango isn’t what it used to be … the thin sewn in groundsheet now has numerous gaffer tape patches where stones have perforated it.

6th December – onto Marrakesh

4 hours only, including picnic time, to our apartment south of Marrakesh. Lovely apt, a bit more expensive than what we’re used to paying. A combination of location and wanting a 2nd bedroom for when Kerstin arrives. French / Moroccan couple. It’s really quality … even a heater in the bathroom. The sockets all work and aren’t falling out the way. Lovely.