Kutaisi and Another Repair

Posted on September 24, 2025 by Clunegapyears

20/09/2025

Very heavy rain all evening and overnight with the grounds getting soft. I was concerned about getting Jez out of the campsite, but J guided the wheels over the best route. Phew. We filled with LPG (£ 0.37 per litre), replenished our cellar 🍷 and bought diesel. Lovely when the right things are empty / full.

We were headed for Kutaisi, but I plotted two activities en route.

The first was Vani archeological museum. Award winning as the exhibits really were well presented. Love the use of mirrors behind the artifacts. Vani was a cult temple / necropolis centre. Largely undisturbed and few tombs raided, with finds going back to C8-7 BC. A lot of gold and treasures were found. Mid C3 BC the Greeks arrived and there was a Hellenistic influence. And coins indicating trade. I was particularly struck by the bronze casts from C1 BC. They really were particularly fine.

Our second stop involved us abandoning Jez as the track was very pot holey and muddy. So were we (muddy not holey or even holy) by the time we had walked to Dikhashkho Sulphur Geyser. With our lack of on board shower, we didn’t fancy joining the others in the sulphur bath. I dipped my fingers in and the water was warm and smelly.

*Apparently the tiny pool gets crowded at sunset*

We parked up along the river in Kutaisi. A spot recommended by a motorhome builder / hirer. We are hopeful that he can perform magic on some of our needed repairs.

Kutaisi Twice

21/09/25

An over 20,000 steps day. We walked twice into Kutaisi. Back for 1.00 to meet Rustam. He builds small campers and rents them and motorhomes. Repair isn’t really his business but there just aren’t any other options in Georgia. He said he’d have a go at most issues, but wouldn’t touch the Alde wet heating. We gave him a key to Jez and he returned that afternoon to do the work:

A screw had broken off that holds a window arm to the wall
A drawer handle had come off and the threads sheared.
The 220v system had stopped working on inverter. It works as if we are on hook up, or should. I’d tested the 220 by plugging in the external orange cable with an adapter, so I knew it was the connection. Rustam unconnected and reconnected everything between them. And it worked. Yay.
The roof light over the bed leaked in heavy rain whilst driving. We’d had it resealed 18 months ago, but Rustam thinks it is a rooflight design fault. We had replaced a wind up handle roof light with a bar to open some years ago, saving about £150. We may be able to block the ventilation holes with a rubber strip.
One shower drain had broken the tray around it. Rustam looked at the fitting of the tray, but to remove it would have involved first removing the shower walls. So we went for just sealing it over, leaving us with one drain.

Total price €150, so happy.

We just wandered Kutaisi in the morning.

*Passing water gushing off a mountain and women sweeping debris from drains along the road. Where are the men?*

*The rusty pipe along the road was Russia’s cheap way of supplying gas to properties. Cheaper than burying underground. I read that it recommended to call should you smell gas,* 💥 *boom*

So many cars are missing front or rear bumpers. The driving is only beaten by Albania on the bad driving scale. Georgia is a major importer of used cars from the USA, which they repair and sell onto Russia and the ‘Stans. Either, a fair few of the wreaks make it onto the Georgian roads, or more worryingly, damage is caused whilst on the Georgian roads.

In the afternoon we went to Bugrati Cathedral. One of the 4 most important Georgian orthodox cathedrals. Gelati Monastery, which is a must see, is closed for renovation so Bugati is doing a production line in weddings. A standing service is held off to the side. Seems to be a quick affair with no music or guest / family readings. Three weddings just in the time we were there.

Controversial as it was significantly restored, with a modern wing and supporting part of the inside. UNESCO very unhappy so moved the cathedral from a world heritage site to a site at risk. But having looked at the photos of the state it was in before, I’m with Georgia, not the purists.

*Supper was delicious. Walnuts in aubergine and chicken sauce, but smooth. My leftovers made 2 soups and a bottle of good white was only £10*

Kutaisi Walking Tour

22/09/2025

*We crossed the hydro plant and walked into town along the other side of the river.*

*The river is still raging muddy water after all the rain and we could see Jez in his parking.*

We did a guided walking tour with one other couple … Hungarian father and daughter living in Geneva. He grew up in London from age 9 and spoke English with a plummy accent, she with a strong accent. A good tour and it cemented some of the history I’ve been reading. Our guide does speak Russian, but is reluctant to use it … we witnessed this when a Russian lady asked for directions. He also advised against visiting 2 museums as they’d been built by Russia. I asked about the flood of Russians (I had read 1.2 million) after the invasion of Ukraine (either to avoid conscription or as they disagreed with the war). He said if you heard a loud booze fuelled party late into the evening, it was Russians. He also said that Georgians charged Russians more to rent or buy property.

*Colchis Fountain – I’d driven around it … no rules at all. A complete free for all in every direction*

*Quite a few statues around. Chap in the right, outside the No 1 public school, had taken the Georgian historic archives and treasures to France* in 1921 *to protect them from the invading Red Army*

Lunch was fairly liquid, as one yummy glass of wine became 3. A recommendation from a young journalist who was at the next table. I got her to write down the names of some good wineries. We ate a hot chicken liver, onion and mushroom fricasse with iceberg lettuce – an interesting combination but it worked.
We had taken the large rucksack and I filled it with meat, fruit and veggies at the daily market.

*Our only evening visitors were cattle and a horse!*

Into Georgia

Posted on September 19, 2025 by Clunegapyears

18/09/2025

It was a surprisingly quiet night with the sound of the waterfall drowning out any truck noise.

A 15 minute drive to the border, with a quick stop to buy water. We were through the border into Georgia in 35 mins. J had to walk through.

We drove to Batumi. I’d not intended to visit, it as it is a holiday destination, but the old town was lovely. Once we had managed to find somewhere to park!

*A wide leafy boulevard along the beach. The town planners had foresight not to allow hotels right on the beach*

*Not seen one of these before. Also lots of boxing booths*

*Batumi Tower: tallest in Georgia at 200m. Built 2012 …*

*Alphabet Tower: celebrating the uniqueness of the Georgian alphabet and people*

*Ali and Nino monument. He is Muslim, she Christian. At 7.00 p.m. they move for 10 mins. Merging and separating. Symbolising eternal love*

*We also saw the less attractive Soviet style apartment blocks, similar ugly functional design to those we saw in Slovakia*

The reason for going to Batumi was to get a Magticom sim and some cash. The Magti sim was £12 for unlimited data for a month and so far seems fast.

We tried to stop at Carrefour but couldn’t park, so stopped at a small supermarket to buy wine and beer. Felt we needed to celebrate being in Georgia, so our dry week was only 5 days.

On a very basic campsite for 2 nights to shower and do laundry. Seems to be a shower hose over the toilet and I’ve been warned it’s not hot! But my hair definitely needs doing.

Laundry

19/09/2925

Late up. Rain did not encourage us to rise. But then then the sun made an appearance so all the laundry went onto the clothes airer. I was about to tackle the bedding, but with dread as the twin tub spinner has stopped working. Quite a work out for J and I to hand wring. We did it the first year full timing, but as soon as we got back to the UK, I bought the twin tub. To be honest, it is 9 years old, so doesn’t owe me anything. I was filling the watering can and the campsite owner offered to drive me to a laundry about 5 km away. 2 large machine loads was only £4, but wash only as their drier broken.

We wandered into to local town along the promonade. Had a late soup / omelette lunch … and 2 very large glasses of wine each. Wine rubbish but how lovely to be able to order booze out … other than our side trip to Dublin, all meals out have been dry for 2 months.

Whilst out, our fabulous campsite owner messaged … he was off to collect our laundry. Could I pay him for his time and fuel? No, but he wouldn’t mind a bottle of beer. So we found a shop in the town and carried back 2 bottles, but they are 2.5 litres each. He seemed pleased. And I’m pleased to have all the laundry done. I’m not so pleased that I can’t get it all dry … it’s back to piss-cipation again until Monday.

In Search of a Quiet Cup of Tea (and Flatulence)

Posted on September 19, 2025 by Clunegapyears

Cayeli

15/09/2025

Despite having paid last night to stay overnight in the Sumela Monastery car park, the bar steward on the gate was determined to charge for today too. Even J got a little angry. Think this is our only negative person encounter in Turkey in nearly 2 months.

Pretty scenery on our descent to a large mall. Corrie got left again as we headed into Starbucks for coffee and cake, a hoody for she who didn’t bring enough warm clothes and a small food shop. We came away with no booze!

The plan was to spend the evening surrounded by tea plantations. Think French vineyard. But after a too busy / parked cars / small road abortive drive to a tea garden and then not liking a narrow road up hill to a plantation, we aborted altogether. We could see mounds of tea plants all around and that will have to do!

Our park up is sandwiched between trucks, many Georgian, by a picnic area. The best spots have been nabbed by the permanent caravans and other camping cars.

Just as well no booze on board, as I could have sunk a vat of gin tonight! Had an ice cream instead and watched a man tree climbing for figs.

Hemsin

16/09/2025

It got noisy from 0530 with the trucks firing up. Meant we got up and away before 0920. An easy drive to Hemsin, passing the rounded tea plants, planted wherever there is space.

We liked Hemsin. Totally ordinary. The municipality has installed a lovely riverside walk. With adult swings!

Asked a local with G translate about a road. He replied with perfect English as he used to live in Russel Square, London ££££s! Upshot was we left Jez in the town and walked from there. Uphill to a waterfall. Lunch at the top. Then staggered up a bit more before descending

It is just so lovely to be in lush green. Beach trees, ferns, a few nettles all indicate how damp this climate.

J tried to nap but trucks with picked tea leaves kept trundling past and elderly men yelling at each other (I sympathise with hearing loss as J’s hearing aids are rarely fully functioning). So we took the local’s advice to drive back to the coast and up the next valley for a quieter overnight parking.

*We drove past miles of raft and zip wire offerings. Definitely the tourist route.*

*Some major road improvements again. J read that overseas banks including Deutsche Bank are funding most of the widespread road construction. All to be paid back in 21 years?!?*

We paid under £3 to enter the national park and stopped in a lay-by. This is 🤫

Camlihemsin

17/09/2025

The rain arrived at 0600, and rather than get stuck in mud in our lay-by, we drove / crawled up a dodgy road to a camper stop. It is / was being constructed and then was destroyed by an avalanche. Some derelict huts, a lot of new roofs and even more piles of broken timber and bent metal. Very sad when folk invest and try to make a living. We felt we needed to contribute so left a good tip after a shared lunch plate.

We walked up and up following a river. Then down and down. J’s legs telling him that he exercised yesterday too!

*We were joined by big boy … a real softie. Even Corrie didn’t mind him as he didn’t keep shoving his nose up her bum*

*Love these mountains for the mixed foliage*

Spoke to a couple (in French!) who were tapping the pine trees for resin. His wife makes all sorts of cures and balms. And spotted others picking wild bilberries.

Back down the mountain to get close to the border. Limited options so in a truck stop. But a waterfall behind us which will drown out any engine noise.

Tea

Rize is the premium Turkish black tea growing area due to high rainfall and fertile soil. More than 80% of Turkey’s tea comes from here … that is a LOT as they drink it constantly – highest tea consumption worldwide at over 3 kgs p.a. per person. The 2nd is Morocco at 2 kgs, followed by the UK at 1.7kgs. It wasn’t always tea though. They used to drink coffee, but it became too expensive after WW2, so Ataturk told people to drink tea instead. They used to import from China until they realised they had the perfect climate in the NE. They are the No. 5 worldwide producer.

The tea has health benefits … it reduces risk of heart attacks and diabetes, lowers cholesterol and increases metabolism. And we like the taste. I’ll buy into those benefits so I bought some and was drinking several large mugs. I eventually linked my bloating and severe flatulence to another side effect! The tannins irritate the bowel. Perhaps I was over consuming!

Oil, Hills & Sumela Monastery

Posted on September 15, 2025 by Clunegapyears

Oil and Back to the Hills

13/09/25

Although 2 mins from the Fiat garage, we had to go back on ourselves for 6 mins to get across the dual carriageway. We spoke to 4 people, but were eventually told they hadn’t the right oil. Could they get it? I don’t know! Obviously the right staff were not working Saturday morning. They referred us to Master Garage further past Trabzon. So back up along the same bit of road to turn again.

Master Garage said we were too big. Ho hum. This is becoming a saga. So we just bought some oil. It’s not quite right … I googled … we needed C2, this is C3, so we may loose 5% mpg. And it’s partially synthetic … we needed fully, so it’s not quite as pure. But at least we won’t seize the engine. It will have a full service mid November when I return it to the UK.

*Zigana Tunnel -Turkey’s longest tunnel 14.48km*. *The pass used to close for 5 months due to snow. Surprisingly free*

With the dull coastline, we continued up into the hills. So we spent a jobs afternoon in the car park of a viewing platform at Torul.

*Torul viewing platform where a castle used to be*

All alone by 6.30, but then a car arrived. Two young chaps. I thought they were either going to ask for money or tell us to move. Just as well it is dry night No. 1, so I could drive. But no, they warned us we would be locked in until 9.00 am. Just fine by us.

Sumela Monastery

14/09/2024

We checked our planned route with the staff at the viewing platform. Yes the mountain road was ‘clear and comfortable’ for our camper. We didn’t want to return by the same tunnel. A beautiful drive.

*I stoped driving a few times just to soak up the views*

*We also found a spring water pipe to refill, as we were down to 25%*

*We had lunch on the way and it was a little chilly so they lit the stove*

*We had planned to walk but whilst eating, the clouds descended so laziness prevailed*

Our destination was one of the top attractions – Sumela Monastery. A Greek Orthodox monastery built into sheer cliffs. Originally founded around AD386, largely expanded during C6 and C13. It had 72 rooms including a rock church and various other chapels. It thrived and was a pilgrimage site until the population exchange in 1923. Thereafter it fell into disrepair, with a fire destroying wooden parts in 1930. The Turkish government funded restoration with it opening to visitors in 2011. It then had to close from 2015-2019 whilst they installed significant measures, including steel netting, to prevent rock fall.
I had not expected so many frescoes to be on the exterior. Sadly so many badly damaged by graffiti. We got our steps in and it was very busy.

*J reading in the library … he great acting skills!*

*The death of Mary, who the church is dedicated too*

*Inside the being restored main rock church*

We have spent the night in the car park here … another duvet night, it is definitely Autumn.

More van woes. A drawer screw won’t screw back in so we are having to prop that drawer open. And the inverter is working but not supplying the 240 v system.

Driving Days in Search of Oil

Posted on September 15, 2025 by Clunegapyears

11/09/25025

It was always going to be a long driving day. But it was made longer than planned. We intended to stop in Samsun to sort renewal on our sim. We had not factored in:

how huge Samsun was. Half an hour of unpleasant urban sprawl till we stopped. And still not near the centre. At times an 8 lane highway. When we turned off to park, drivers had no sense of the space we need. They dash into a gap and wonder why all the traffic is grid locked.
not one of my dodgy roads, a dual carriageway, but a mini bus sent what must’ve been a brick up to make contact with our windscreen. The resulting star shape would’ve looked good on a Christmas tree. Once we found a repair place, parking was non existent, so we abused the space in a petrol station. Yes they could fix. 2000 tl. After J’s initial miscalculation of £500, we agreed at £40. But not here. Mustapha would show us. This is Must-ava-fag. He reeked of smoke. He covered his eyes with mock fear as I, a mere woman, sat down to drive. He asked when we got the chip. ‘This morning, a lovely Turkish stone’ I replied with G Translate. He did the repair and said that since we had the damage from a Tr stone, we would discount to £28. A nice encounter, despite his wiff!

We are in Hazelnut territory. They are left sun drying along roads, in car parks …

*We drove through Fatsa (great name) and, no kidding, at least a km each side of the road of dealer upon dealer of mini busses and minivans. Mostly white, of course!*

Tonight we are parked up at the start of a coastal bulge, which we were recommended to drive. A pretty fishing village and small beach. Not touristy and a perfect antidote to a longer day than expected.

We were very politely asked to move … apparently a market will start being set up from 5.00 am … we’d be stuck all day.

In Search of Oil

12/09/25

We wandered the market. Just as well we had moved, it was large and we’d have been stuck the far end. I bought a long sleeved T for under £3, as I’m conscious that I’ve not enough warm clothes with me. And, oh my, bags of wonderful super fresh produce. The peaches now seem past their best. But the figs! I bought 10 for under a £1.

We continued around the bulge in the coastline. Still pretty but reckon where we stayed last night at one of the best bits. We stopped at the point … a light house and a Greek church built in the 1880s. Jason stopped here after gaining the fleece, so it’s called Jason Cape.

Afterwards, the road is quite dull. Dual carriageway and sprawling urbanisation. We had wanted to stop in Ordu to ascend to views by cable car. We could spot the cable car, but not anywhere to park.

*Just to remind us we are in hazelnut territory*

We stopped at Fiat Professional just past Ordu to ask if they could do an oil change. Although, the oil was changed at the service in Jan, it is halfway down the dipstick and quite black. Not treacle yet, but we’ve a lot of km still to do. We were too big, so they suggested their sister company. Yes they would be working tomorrow, Saturday. So we drove further than planned onto near Trabzon. En route, I found my eyes dropping, so had to pull over for a 10 min Power Nap. That is the first time I’ve had to do that this trip.

I found a P4N 2 mins away from the Fiat garage. Very built up area, but by the beach. Too many dogs, so C and I walked the streets, with the water pistol. I had to shoot 2 dogs. Weirdly a sawmill amongst the apartment blocks.

*View of the beach that we didn’t walk on due to dogs and huge Trabzon*

J and I have been on holiday mood, drinking every night. So we finished all the booze in Jez last night. Including the winery bottle I had been saving to take to the Aged Ps. Jez is now dry and will we be dry for a whole week!!!

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

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