In Search of a Quiet Cup of Tea (and Flatulence)

Posted on September 19, 2025 by Clunegapyears

Cayeli

15/09/2025

Despite having paid last night to stay overnight in the Sumela Monastery car park, the bar steward on the gate was determined to charge for today too. Even J got a little angry. Think this is our only negative person encounter in Turkey in nearly 2 months.

Pretty scenery on our descent to a large mall. Corrie got left again as we headed into Starbucks for coffee and cake, a hoody for she who didn’t bring enough warm clothes and a small food shop. We came away with no booze!

The plan was to spend the evening surrounded by tea plantations. Think French vineyard. But after a too busy / parked cars / small road abortive drive to a tea garden and then not liking a narrow road up hill to a plantation, we aborted altogether. We could see mounds of tea plants all around and that will have to do!

Our park up is sandwiched between trucks, many Georgian, by a picnic area. The best spots have been nabbed by the permanent caravans and other camping cars.

Just as well no booze on board, as I could have sunk a vat of gin tonight! Had an ice cream instead and watched a man tree climbing for figs.

Hemsin

16/09/2025

It got noisy from 0530 with the trucks firing up. Meant we got up and away before 0920. An easy drive to Hemsin, passing the rounded tea plants, planted wherever there is space.

We liked Hemsin. Totally ordinary. The municipality has installed a lovely riverside walk. With adult swings!

Asked a local with G translate about a road. He replied with perfect English as he used to live in Russel Square, London ££££s! Upshot was we left Jez in the town and walked from there. Uphill to a waterfall. Lunch at the top. Then staggered up a bit more before descending

It is just so lovely to be in lush green. Beach trees, ferns, a few nettles all indicate how damp this climate.

J tried to nap but trucks with picked tea leaves kept trundling past and elderly men yelling at each other (I sympathise with hearing loss as J’s hearing aids are rarely fully functioning). So we took the local’s advice to drive back to the coast and up the next valley for a quieter overnight parking.

*We drove past miles of raft and zip wire offerings. Definitely the tourist route.*

*Some major road improvements again. J read that overseas banks including Deutsche Bank are funding most of the widespread road construction. All to be paid back in 21 years?!?*

We paid under £3 to enter the national park and stopped in a lay-by. This is 🤫

Camlihemsin

17/09/2025

The rain arrived at 0600, and rather than get stuck in mud in our lay-by, we drove / crawled up a dodgy road to a camper stop. It is / was being constructed and then was destroyed by an avalanche. Some derelict huts, a lot of new roofs and even more piles of broken timber and bent metal. Very sad when folk invest and try to make a living. We felt we needed to contribute so left a good tip after a shared lunch plate.

We walked up and up following a river. Then down and down. J’s legs telling him that he exercised yesterday too!

*We were joined by big boy … a real softie. Even Corrie didn’t mind him as he didn’t keep shoving his nose up her bum*

*Love these mountains for the mixed foliage*

Spoke to a couple (in French!) who were tapping the pine trees for resin. His wife makes all sorts of cures and balms. And spotted others picking wild bilberries.

Back down the mountain to get close to the border. Limited options so in a truck stop. But a waterfall behind us which will drown out any engine noise.

Tea

Rize is the premium Turkish black tea growing area due to high rainfall and fertile soil. More than 80% of Turkey’s tea comes from here … that is a LOT as they drink it constantly – highest tea consumption worldwide at over 3 kgs p.a. per person. The 2nd is Morocco at 2 kgs, followed by the UK at 1.7kgs. It wasn’t always tea though. They used to drink coffee, but it became too expensive after WW2, so Ataturk told people to drink tea instead. They used to import from China until they realised they had the perfect climate in the NE. They are the No. 5 worldwide producer.

The tea has health benefits … it reduces risk of heart attacks and diabetes, lowers cholesterol and increases metabolism. And we like the taste. I’ll buy into those benefits so I bought some and was drinking several large mugs. I eventually linked my bloating and severe flatulence to another side effect! The tannins irritate the bowel. Perhaps I was over consuming!

Oil, Hills & Sumela Monastery

Posted on September 15, 2025 by Clunegapyears

Oil and Back to the Hills

13/09/25

Although 2 mins from the Fiat garage, we had to go back on ourselves for 6 mins to get across the dual carriageway. We spoke to 4 people, but were eventually told they hadn’t the right oil. Could they get it? I don’t know! Obviously the right staff were not working Saturday morning. They referred us to Master Garage further past Trabzon. So back up along the same bit of road to turn again.

Master Garage said we were too big. Ho hum. This is becoming a saga. So we just bought some oil. It’s not quite right … I googled … we needed C2, this is C3, so we may loose 5% mpg. And it’s partially synthetic … we needed fully, so it’s not quite as pure. But at least we won’t seize the engine. It will have a full service mid November when I return it to the UK.

*Zigana Tunnel -Turkey’s longest tunnel 14.48km*. *The pass used to close for 5 months due to snow. Surprisingly free*

With the dull coastline, we continued up into the hills. So we spent a jobs afternoon in the car park of a viewing platform at Torul.

*Torul viewing platform where a castle used to be*

All alone by 6.30, but then a car arrived. Two young chaps. I thought they were either going to ask for money or tell us to move. Just as well it is dry night No. 1, so I could drive. But no, they warned us we would be locked in until 9.00 am. Just fine by us.

Sumela Monastery

14/09/2024

We checked our planned route with the staff at the viewing platform. Yes the mountain road was ‘clear and comfortable’ for our camper. We didn’t want to return by the same tunnel. A beautiful drive.

*I stoped driving a few times just to soak up the views*

*We also found a spring water pipe to refill, as we were down to 25%*

*We had lunch on the way and it was a little chilly so they lit the stove*

*We had planned to walk but whilst eating, the clouds descended so laziness prevailed*

Our destination was one of the top attractions – Sumela Monastery. A Greek Orthodox monastery built into sheer cliffs. Originally founded around AD386, largely expanded during C6 and C13. It had 72 rooms including a rock church and various other chapels. It thrived and was a pilgrimage site until the population exchange in 1923. Thereafter it fell into disrepair, with a fire destroying wooden parts in 1930. The Turkish government funded restoration with it opening to visitors in 2011. It then had to close from 2015-2019 whilst they installed significant measures, including steel netting, to prevent rock fall.
I had not expected so many frescoes to be on the exterior. Sadly so many badly damaged by graffiti. We got our steps in and it was very busy.

*J reading in the library … he great acting skills!*

*The death of Mary, who the church is dedicated too*

*Inside the being restored main rock church*

We have spent the night in the car park here … another duvet night, it is definitely Autumn.

More van woes. A drawer screw won’t screw back in so we are having to prop that drawer open. And the inverter is working but not supplying the 240 v system.

Driving Days in Search of Oil

Posted on September 15, 2025 by Clunegapyears

11/09/25025

It was always going to be a long driving day. But it was made longer than planned. We intended to stop in Samsun to sort renewal on our sim. We had not factored in:

how huge Samsun was. Half an hour of unpleasant urban sprawl till we stopped. And still not near the centre. At times an 8 lane highway. When we turned off to park, drivers had no sense of the space we need. They dash into a gap and wonder why all the traffic is grid locked.
not one of my dodgy roads, a dual carriageway, but a mini bus sent what must’ve been a brick up to make contact with our windscreen. The resulting star shape would’ve looked good on a Christmas tree. Once we found a repair place, parking was non existent, so we abused the space in a petrol station. Yes they could fix. 2000 tl. After J’s initial miscalculation of £500, we agreed at £40. But not here. Mustapha would show us. This is Must-ava-fag. He reeked of smoke. He covered his eyes with mock fear as I, a mere woman, sat down to drive. He asked when we got the chip. ‘This morning, a lovely Turkish stone’ I replied with G Translate. He did the repair and said that since we had the damage from a Tr stone, we would discount to £28. A nice encounter, despite his wiff!

We are in Hazelnut territory. They are left sun drying along roads, in car parks …

*We drove through Fatsa (great name) and, no kidding, at least a km each side of the road of dealer upon dealer of mini busses and minivans. Mostly white, of course!*

Tonight we are parked up at the start of a coastal bulge, which we were recommended to drive. A pretty fishing village and small beach. Not touristy and a perfect antidote to a longer day than expected.

We were very politely asked to move … apparently a market will start being set up from 5.00 am … we’d be stuck all day.

In Search of Oil

12/09/25

We wandered the market. Just as well we had moved, it was large and we’d have been stuck the far end. I bought a long sleeved T for under £3, as I’m conscious that I’ve not enough warm clothes with me. And, oh my, bags of wonderful super fresh produce. The peaches now seem past their best. But the figs! I bought 10 for under a £1.

We continued around the bulge in the coastline. Still pretty but reckon where we stayed last night at one of the best bits. We stopped at the point … a light house and a Greek church built in the 1880s. Jason stopped here after gaining the fleece, so it’s called Jason Cape.

Afterwards, the road is quite dull. Dual carriageway and sprawling urbanisation. We had wanted to stop in Ordu to ascend to views by cable car. We could spot the cable car, but not anywhere to park.

*Just to remind us we are in hazelnut territory*

We stopped at Fiat Professional just past Ordu to ask if they could do an oil change. Although, the oil was changed at the service in Jan, it is halfway down the dipstick and quite black. Not treacle yet, but we’ve a lot of km still to do. We were too big, so they suggested their sister company. Yes they would be working tomorrow, Saturday. So we drove further than planned onto near Trabzon. En route, I found my eyes dropping, so had to pull over for a 10 min Power Nap. That is the first time I’ve had to do that this trip.

I found a P4N 2 mins away from the Fiat garage. Very built up area, but by the beach. Too many dogs, so C and I walked the streets, with the water pistol. I had to shoot 2 dogs. Weirdly a sawmill amongst the apartment blocks.

*View of the beach that we didn’t walk on due to dogs and huge Trabzon*

J and I have been on holiday mood, drinking every night. So we finished all the booze in Jez last night. Including the winery bottle I had been saving to take to the Aged Ps. Jez is now dry and will we be dry for a whole week!!!

Along the Black Sea

Posted on September 11, 2025 by Clunegapyears

09/09/2025

We continued driving east along the Black Sea coast road. The Black Sea has a staggering average depth of 1,253 metres, so not unsurprisingly most of the coast is mountains or cliffs. It is 1175 metres / 730 miles long. Major rivers including the Danube feed it and the main outsource is the Dardanelles. Weird, but the water here flows both ways – the denser more saline flows into the Black Sea below the fresher less dense water from the Black Sea.

*Being behind a bus made the narrow and bendy coast road easier, but it kept stopping, so we had to go past. After Doganyurt, the road vastly improved. Phew.*

*The coast is definitely similar to N Devon* *mixed trees, including beech, tumbling to the shore*

We stopped at Inebolu for coffee and cake. An ordinary town, so we liked it.

*Inebolu beach. Despite the guide books talking about beautiful Black Sea beaches, they are all grey and many are stones*

Abana was recommended for fish restaurants, but we had lunch in Jez. Couldn’t see a fish shop or I’d have bought supper. The small water park and fun fare were closed up now. Children returned to school this week.

*A lot nice square with pigeons bathing in the fountain. Another house model, we’d seem one in Inebolu too*

J wanted to nap and I needed water to deploy the twin tub, so we’ve stopped about 2.00 at a coastal picnic spot. Another sign the season is over is how few families came to use the bbqs. Super peaceful night with the sound of waves.

*Sunset from our edge of the sea front parking as we BBQ’d*

Sinop

10/09

*We both exercised, did the van services and still awa*y by 9.20

We reckon at least half the population are employed in construction and mostly road building. We crossed over several very wide rivers, most of which were also having work done. As well as whole new roads.

We planned to go to waterfalls, but after the first gravelly small hairpin and 23 km of similar ahead, I aborted. Still scarred by the road to Cide!

Our first destination therefore, was Turkey’s only fjord. Hamsilos Koyu. Or so they claim, cos it ain’t really a fjord. The fjord itself and the walk along it, where you couldn’t see anything or trees, were not up to much.

But through the Hamsilos National park, on the way, was lovely. Pretty beaches and a small harbour. We lunched here and then J had a nanny nap.

Sinop is interesting. It’s main attraction is the Alcatraz of Anatolia. A prison built in 1887 inside a castle, on the site of what was one of the Ottoman’s main 3 ship building sites. I was there an hour and I scooted round and missed bits as J and Corrie were outside. Think Midnight Express. It only ceased operating in 1997.

The main gates of Sinop town would close at night. Very few escaped, one though the sewers. But the next chap who tried the same route had a shite ending and drowned as they’d put up bars.

*Entrance where prisoners were searched*

In November 1953, the Battle of Sinop, saw the Russians destroyed a squadron of Ottoman ships. This prompted retaliation by Western Forces … the Crimean War.

*I ‘guided’ J uphill to a closed Byzantine ruined church and round lots of back streets*

Fish supper overlooking the huge fishing boat harbour. Watched a boat come in with a load of melon.

We liked Sinop. Corrie didn’t. She was attacked twice by city dogs. We carried the water pistol. Actually J, for a pacifist, got trigger happy. No cats or dogs were truly harmed.

Not a Disaster, but could have been!

Posted on September 9, 2025 by Clunegapyears

07/09/2025

A bit of a disappointing and difficult day.

The Horma Valley board walk was shut due to the earlier heavy rain. Disappointing but sensible as the wood was slippery. What we could see was lovely.

Drove to Valla Canyon. The deepest gorge in Turkey and the 2nd highest in the world. No. 1 is Arizona. The last part of the approach was tight with cars parked along the road. J guided me past with an inch either side. The tiny car park was full. Nowhere to turn. Fortunately someone indicated for us to keep going forward as it looped back to the wider part of road. Two attempts to get up the slippery slope. So that was our visit to the deepest canyon!

*Valla Canyon from a distance as we couldn’t stop close by*

Once out of the crammed parking, we aborted Valla and followed the sign to Cide on the coast, where we planned to sleep. The road got progressively worse. More track than tarmac.

And then it got worse and worse. Big earth movers, as they attempt to widen and improve it. There were some very anxious moments as there was mud from trucks and the heavy rain, and steep bends. About an hour and a half in, we stalled. Literally. Just no way was Jez going up a particularly muddy steep bend. Nothing for it but to reverse (down mud) to turn around. Trundling our retreat, I was amazed Jez had got up some of the slopes. We didn’t think to take pix of the particularly bad sections.

We have come back to the large and solid parking at Horma. Exhausted from the stress, with aching shoulders and jaw from being clenched. But so thankful Jez didn’t slide off the track. I’ve checked with a bus driver on our exit route for tomorrow!

Horma Now Open … Wow

08/09/25

We showered and filled with water. Wandered across to the canyon entrance with Google translate on the phone …is the gorge open all the way to the waterfall. Yes. So we got to walk some the most spectacular nature we have seen in Turkey. Capodochia was amazing too.
3km each way along a board walk to a waterfall. Narrow in places, sheer and super deep, up to 230m in places. I couldn’t stop grinning. Or taking photos. It completely fed my soul.

We then drove the orange roads (A-roads) to Cide, where we had attempted to reach yesterday. Still quite bumpy at times, but a relief after yesterday.

Described as a pretty fishing village. A few boats in the harbour but other than the mountains behind, it had nothing to recommend it. Many restaurants have closed up. Seems Sept 1st is the end of summer. Bought some washing up liquid and snacks and left, taking the coast road east. Oh dear, this road is c.250km to Sinop and is another orange roads, but being resurfaced with spray and a ton of chip. Bendy and narrow. Taking 2 of us to peer around right hand bends.

We’ve spent the night on a small quiet beach other than the mosque, which bellowed very loudly at 4.00 am. Another small camper. Russian … I googled that Turkey is still visa free for Russians.

We made the decision to continue along this coast road as the scenery is pretty. It reminds me of N Devon. But we will skip the 200+ detour S to Ilgaz national park … looks good, but we do want to make Georgia and are conscious our visa free allowance is 90 days in 180.

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

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