We spent the morning at our lake pitch, doing jobs in readiness for our Dublin trip tomorrow. We’ve packed for Corrie for her 5 night stay in a Pet Hotel and two rucksacks for us.
The hand written sheet is details of our 3 hotel bookings, high speed train Ankara to Istanbul, flights Istanbul to Dublin and Dublin car hire. They are all held digitally but on email, WhatsApp and message.
After lunch we visited Gordion. This goes back to Hittites and was the capital of Phrygia. They both traded together until the Phrygians took over Hattusa, the Hittite capital. We didn’t visit the ruined fortress C9 BC, but the museum and Midas Tomb.
The museum flowed well and had English info boards. The pottery pieces are C6. There had been a fire at the fortress 800 BC and metres of clay were piled on top to make foundations for the new building, thus preserving artefacts often intact.
There are approximately 100 funeral mounds. Most were raided. The biggest, the Midas Tomb took 1000 men 2 years to construct. It is the 3rd largest in the world at 300m diameter and 55m tall.
Midas mound.
The Midas Tomb is now believed to be Midas’ father, Gordion, thanks to carbon dating of the bones. So c.740BC. It was one of the few to have not been robbed so even the funeral meal dishes were still there. Inside is the world’s oldest wooden building inside a mound. In fact, the world’s oldest standing wooden building. It is constructed from juniper and pine. The timbers have been standing over 2700 years. Turkish miners carefully constructed a tunnel for visitors. It was a bit of a wow moment.
A very quiet night until two sets of visitors to the water trough in the morning.
Early morning neighbours
We drove and then walked up to Gavur Kalesi, a Hittatie ruin fortress. Not much there other than a few corners and an entrance.
Jez is down there
Haymana is a thermal spa town. Fortunately, we didn’t expect much, as Harrogate or Bath it certainly ain’t. A few run down spa hotels in town and a large modern one on the edge. Many abandoned rotting houses. I then read that there was high unemployment and youngsters leaving. The ice cream and cold drinks were good though and cheap at under £6.
We discounted an overnight parking as way too busy with Ankara all spending the day by the lake. We came onto a a further away lake. Managed to find a patch without too much broken glass. We watched lads just fling their empty bottles. But then super quiet.
Hats off to the Hittites. A major civilisation in the Bronze Age. Fought and beat the Egyptians. Eventually signed a peace treaty with them. A copy exists in NY UN HQ as the first peace treaty. The Hittites took over from the Hatti people. Hattusa was their capital city from 1650. Evidence of developed trade with Syria, Persia etc. The Sea Peoples were their eventual undoing about 450 years later.
Yazilikaya
23/08/25
A longish drive to see the main Hittite sites. These are the most important group of Hittite rock art. Two main chambers displaying Gods and scenes. The holy site was in use until late C16 bc.
J and I both suffered yesterday (and so did our cassette toilet) from our bad eating day (cakes, ice cream and chocolate) so the French rubbish bin made sense!
Hattuşa
24/08/25
Thousands of tablets were eventually translated which told their history, laws, pacts trade etc. Finding them must have been an amazing archeological moment.
The only traces of this massive site are the stone foundations of the temples and the massive perimeter wall. They worshipped thousands of Gods, often those of assimilated civilisations. Lots of Gods so lots of foundations. Houses and the tops of temples were constructed from wood and mud bricks. Gates and walls also remain. Another them and us culture, but slaves were allowed to own property and marry.
3000 yr old lionTunnel through the city wallEngraved writingMore hieroglyphics Legal?
J and I elected to walk the route, whereas everyone else elected to drive. But we loved the walk (except the long uphill) and being able to take in the views. A Turkish car stopped to chat. Amazed that a) we were walking the route and b) at how many places we had and planned to visit.
Our parking tonight is south of Ankara. A quiet spot with just one family picnicking. As they left, we were presented with a bag of tomatoes, cay/tea and an inordinate number of peppers. What on earth to do with them ??? as we only have 2 more nights in Jez before our Ankara / Istanbul / Dublin expedition.
We have water and are almost level. So we decided to have a jobs morning. This turned into a jobs day!
I cut my Pilates short to get up on the roof before the sun made it too hot. It was dreadful … caked Sahara dust from Jez’s stay in Crete. Thankfully it’s been so sunny we have not had issues with solar harvesting. Followed by a full body wash. Two passes with suds and then multiple to rinse. I put a treatment on the rubber seals and J changed the bedding and cleaned inside. Reckon the laundry took nearly 4 hours! Clothes and 2 x knicker chandeliers inside. Airer for towels, bedding and mats. Really appreciated our showers. And the post hard work wine.
A lady came to the neighbouring graveyard to pray and plant a rose for her sister. She gabbled at me, I smiled and she patted my cheek. Can’t ever remember anyone doing that.
Amasya
22/08
Amasya’s history goes back over 7000 years, with a hill top castle. Pontiac cave tombs, starting 281BC. There are 21 tombs making it quite a necropolis of Kings.
Fortunately the guide book didn’t recommend climbing up to them!
Young Ottoman princes were posted here to cut their teeth ruling a district … I guess before a brother, uncle etc murdered them!
Ataturk came here a number of times. In June 1919 the Amasya Declaration was prepared – the roadmap to revolution. Then in October 1919 he met with a Government representative and Amasya Protocol was signed. A few other trips but the next significant one was in 1924 to promote the new alphabet. We took a look at the museum about the struggle for independence…
One room disappointing, and on the 2nd floor so we had a climb anyway
A restored Ottoman housing area. All spread out along the river, surrounded by mountains.
Very pleasant and clean, even if the river looked murky The usual number of mosques and Medrese
Whilst cleaning Jez yesterday, the windscreen wiper fell apart. A piece missing. After Amasya, we drove to a big industrial estate that seemed to be specifically for auto repair. The Google search for windscreen wiper shop was no good. But the lad hopped in Jez and directed us to another workshop. And then another, each several blocks away. New wiper fitted was under £8.
Great to have our own translator and guideA picnic area that has loads of space
Drove to a large reservoir picnic area. Corrie made a fuss of again. Whilst I was at a picnic table with my guide books, a couple tried to press a beautifully presented plate of food on me. Should have given it to Corrie as she is the one who tolerated their young daughter petting her. This is the second time we’ve been offered food. Culturally, I am slightly uncomfortable with it. My problem I know. Culinary wise, I love to just taste to see the flavour combinations.
Each town seems to have its own NOT StarbucksHave seen folk eating this healthy fast food … a pot of cornWe weren’t so healthy!
Yesterday was a nothing day. Effective in that we did housework and showered at our isolated parking by a graveyard and funeral building. Only one chap who came to check on his bees.
Long drive to near Tokat, broken by lunch by a river. The ancient site we planned to wander late afternoon, just for something to see, was closed. And the picnic site where we had planned to stay was solid with cars … the local village was out en force bbq’ing. We investigated a patch of ground behind a building but realised we could only reach it through a military area … the gunned up young guard asked what we were doing. With Google translate I proffered ‘looking for somewhere to stay in our motorhome’. The reply translated was ‘well you can’t stay here, dude’. Dude! Really!!!!
So we settled on a verge on a relatively quiet road. A pickup stopped by us. I was expecting him to tell us we couldn’t park here, but he presented us with a melon, huge tomatoes and 30 small cucumbers. How lovely, but any suggestions for so many cucumbers?
Tokat
20/08
Today was lovely. It goes like that, doesn’t it. Tokat was a proper bustling town. Some lovely Seljuk buildings. Some restored and the old mosque being restored.
HammanMedreseAnother mosque restoration with the castle behind. Of course no eye protection for the chap chipping rocksAnother Medrese which used to be the town museum, recently restored The caravanaserai turned into retail and restaurants
Great ice cream flavours that really tasted of what they were supposed to … j had melon and blueberry. I had pistachio, fig and blackberry – the latter being authentically tart.
Cold drink … limited non gas options for me … fermented carrot with turnip. Very salty but only 4 calories!
A short drive to a restaurant with good reviews for the local delicacy – Tokat kebab. Lamb with aubergine and potatoes with a bulb of garlic. Lovely mild smoke flavour. It took 45 mins so they brought yummy mixed starters. Only £38, but we really aren’t in an overseas touristy area.
Stuffed after starters!
A 40 min drive to Ballica cave. J rested with Corrie, I was in 2 minds, as still need a wheel barrow to support my stomach from lunch. But so pleased I did the caves. Entry and a fridge magnet was under £2. Five floors. 8 chambers. Over 700 steps each way. Sadly the orange lighting messed with my pix, but images just don’t do the stalagmites and stalactites justice anyway.
We meandered down the hillside looking for a park up. Fab … off the road. Almost level. Water. Quiet neighbours … a graveyard. And the rose 🍷 is very pleasant.
Clune Gap Years 