Days 98 – 103: Paddling, Tattoos, Tyres and Maddy Munchkin

Posted on July 31, 2015 by Clunegapyears

98 – Sunday: Mega exercise

K and J did a sluggish run. Zozo and Louis, who had shown us the route two days ago, both declined to accompany us. Funny that!

Niecey then showed K and Louis the way with the new Pilates DVD. Most excellent backwards roll Niecey!

Exhausted! And canoeing to come!

The Aged P’s departed with a few unwanted Nordic layers … less then they brought out to us … so we can argue that our piles in their attic are less …. not sure they would agree we have made much of a dent though!

After lunch down to the river near Aubeterre for canoeing. Louis was solo, but after assuring James that Niecey would NOT capsize him … K with Zoe and J with Niecey. Just at the point of departure Clare and co started bigging up the ‘OBSTACLE’. Something to do with a disruption of the river flow! We were taken up river with the canoes and left to wend our way gently down stream, enjoying the peaceful sounds and sights of nature … NOT. We had attempted boardings, attempted oar stealing, zig zags from one bank to the other (K and Z), ramming and turning each other around. Louis’ new rubber sandal went overboard in the attempt to draw him off. The obstacle was a weir … with a chute and then a drop for canoes. None of us managed to topple out, despite being told to hang on … quite what to we are not sure! Zozo decided to ride the canoe like Boudica until she toppled in. K then joined her for a river walk but could not re-enter the canoe until it was fairly shallow. The picnicking family only offered her water (bah!) when she asked for ‘un petite verre”! Zozo, fed up by now with standing in the canoe became the masthead, but at the back and sabotaged any directional work K was doing. Exhausting! And memorable!

James and Niecey … she kept her promise not to capsize him.

Louis with the technique!

Zoe as masthead

K now really exhausted and abandonning Zozo!

99 – Monday: Chalais market, Tattoo and Tyres

A wander around Chalais market and the obligatory cafe – grand creme. It’s all Niecey’s fault … she suggested it! K ended up with a tattoo on her arm …. similar to henna so it will fade. Unlike Maddy’s new tattoo, a Taurus branding on her thigh done in Lanzarote last week.

Am I really doing this? Bright idea Bakers!

Answers on a postcard as to what it says!

Also managed to fill up the 2 x 5l emptied water bottles with Merlot at EUR2.40/litre.

A huge lunch ‘formula’ in Bonne and then K and J were dropped off at Chalais Tyres, where we had left Chardonnay in the morning, to await delivery and fitting of two new front tyres. We had just got the damp laundry out to hand off the bike rack and J was just about to sleep off his boozy lunch, when the tyres arrived and were fitted.

Zero fuel so we headed to the Intermarche, sorry but our delivery did not arrive …. nearest was almost back at C2’s house, which we made on vapour. Finally we set off in the vague direction of Bordeaux. Stayed the night on a Bordeaux Grand Cru vineyard … the only motorhome there so very peaceful.

C2: we forgot to write in your visitor’s book. Our official entry …

Amazing free pitch with great company, free electric, pool and washing machine to be abused. Extra services include hair dying and motorhome washing.

Day 100!!! Tuesday: Maddy Arrived

We collected Maddy from Bordeaux airport via the biggest Carrefour we have ever seen. The whole retail area was infinitely bigger than Cribbs Causeway in Bristol! There was even a store devoted just to Table Football.

Poor Munchkin had come back from burning the candle both ends with what she described as ‘Fresher’s Flu’. Dosed up, she pretty much slept, so we put some miles arriving at a campsite in Crayssac (Cahors area). Yes we could BBQ and with coals and they had a pool.

K revealed her ‘tattoo’ and Munch was not taken in for a moment that it was real …. mostly amused that K would be stuck with it for about 2 weeks!

A quick dip and then supper. The band started warming up and were pretty good … a tribute to a French singer that we’d not heard of and nothing like typical Eurovision French music. We wandered down to listen with our chairs and a plastic jug of decanted Merlot … classy!

Cannot believe that we have been travelling 100 days. It has been the most amazing experience. Loving it.

101 – Wednesday: Cahors and Saint Enemite, Gorges du Tarn

Hilly and humid runs for K and J. It started to rain as we stuck camp, but we just got M’s tent down in time. We had planned to stop in Cahors for a coffee but the rain was still teeming down. And cars were all teaming into Cahors; probably everyone heading in as a wet day destination. So we kept going. Given the weather and Maddy’s cold we turned it into a driving day.

Stopped in the Gorges du Tarn. Scenery remincient of some of the Scandinavian drives … steep sides and J did not look down much as he was driving.

A tight turn into our campsite …. alongside the river. BBQ on the Cadac Safari gas grill.

102 – Thursday: River Walk to Saint Enimite and Saint-Gilles

Again, Maddy slept whilst K and J ran. After striking camp, we left Chardonnay on the pitch and crossed the bridge to the pretty path that led to the village of Saint Enimie for a coffee.

Typical chimney

Maddy and I used to make such twig houses when she was little

We had planned to stop for two nights within 1 hour of Marseille airport, but the traffic around Arles had other plans. Gendarmes in force, bouchons as far as you could see in all directions and cars abandonned in favour of walking home. We headed off a round about down the only road that was clear – and onto a Peage. Our first since the start of our trip, but we got off the motorway quick incurring a classe 2 toll of only EUR1.70 and headed south.

J googled a campsite in Saint-Gilles on his phone, but actually we could NOT have missed the huge banner across the road. To get a pitch that would take the >8m of Chardonnay and allow us to open the door, we ended up on a pitch with electricity … such expense! But we have a super large pitch and put the awing out!

Gas BBQ again and K got stuck into Apperol with sparking wine … thanks to Steph at Cotham for telling me about it …. absolutely spot on for a hot evening.

Breakfast … actually wearing some of it!

Is this what I ordered?

That Englishman abroad again!

Pilgrims old church

How Maddy occupied herself whilst we wandered the cemetry … Ugh, it’s disrespectful!

103 – Friday: Lazy Lunch and swim

No exercise today … both feeling indolent. A leisurely getting started … but then a hive of industry. K scrubbed and pounded, whilst James wrung and squeezed! Whilst all this laundry was being washed and hung out … Maddy slept!

We wandered into Saint-Gilles: it is on the pilgrim route from Italy to Compostella, so an old church and we wandered the ancient cemetery. Some of the old gravestones had signs stating that they were to be reclaimed … lack of use or rent?! One wonders what happens to the bones of the outgoing incumbent as the new arrives!

Ate far too much at a restaurant along the canal, where we fortunately had a breeze. Staggered back to the campsite … this is where a wheel barrow would have come in handy for our distended stomachs. K and M to bronze and cool off by the pool and J to nanny nap in the van, until he also came for a cooling dip.

Our PA in England had emailed all sorts of admin jobs, so we dealt with these and relaxed … hoping the heat will abate later. We have an early start … will leave at 7.00 tomorrow to drop Munchkin at Marseille airport.

Our pitch

Days 91-97: With K’s Family and a bit of J’s

Posted on July 26, 2015 by Clunegapyears

91 – Sunday: Quirky Chateau

We rose early – dawn had cracked – and the fearsome two went off to exercise – J to run – and K to run – K did 20 minutes for the first time! Cooling down in the shade of our awning – and Monsieur le Chateau appeared to ask if we were ready for le visite – in 15 minutes! Still gasping for air – we dressed (how to dress for a Chateau visit?) – the ultra casual look – watch Victoria Beckham next week….. Cafe first in the Chateau kitchen with mega small talk in French, which left James doing lots of nodding confidently – in fluent French nods. 3 Hours later, he had learned no more of the language – but some about life in the area in the 15th Century… K’s nodding was more impressive as it was accompanied by the spoken tongue. The lady of the Chateau had worked as the curator for 100 years: researched the residents and their relations, the costumes and food etc of Medieval times. When the castle was due to be sold, her life work was to be dismantled, so she and her husband ended up buying it.

inner courtyard with mannequins to depict Medieval life.

Chateau with moat

The van was readied for takeoff – and it was pointed towards – a village for facilities and a nap for the elderly gent ! Then SatNav was programmed for a France Passion near le Puy de Dome – volcanoes and amazing countryside (any other kind in France?)….. the Passion – a lovely farm where K stocked up on the local produce – Ferme Guy.

More about the volcanoes on the Monday blog…..

92 – Monday and Monts, volcanoes – and a cool train…

AM after some strange animal shriekings – could be some pigs still celebrating the end of the 30-year war – or asking not to be slaughtered ? To the ritual exercising – between Coheix and Mazaye (impressed by my local knowledge? I read road signs… I still cannot find the towns called “Sortie” and “Rappel” on the map of France – but I also failed with “Ausfart” in Germany – not an Aussie wind? J’s running was less Coheixive – maybe a small muscle twinge ? We motored to le Puy de Domes – parked in the heat and boarded a dinky train up to 1500 metres – sheer drops on one side – J went looking for the emergency braking system….. A collection of dome shaped volcanoes which are hugely impressive; some have a crater and some water. Paraglider trips for 80 Euro – we passed on that one – back on the train down the mountain and lunch in the van – amazing what K can do with sardines…..

EUR80! But not for us.

Le Puy de Dome train

The volcano craters

The temple ruin at the top

Another ruin at top!

To the road again (9000 miles in 3 months thus far) – via more motorhome facilities – we get so excited at emptying toilets and filling with water – and LPG – you all need to experience the backdraft of the LPG nozzle when it’s released – a real Ausfart ! To Engletons to overnight outside a pottery facility – free of course.

93 – Tuesday: Hot @ Hautfort

We were parked up in the shade and had NO excuse not to do cleaning inside Chardonnay. We keep saying that it looks so lovely when we do a clean that we should do it more often, but it is amazing how many other things get in the way!

We drove to Hautfort. Used the aire facilities again, which were free 🙂 K spoke to another motorhomer who was parked up on a large patch of crispy grass … yes this land belongs to the mairie and you can stay here overnight. We lunched and had every intention of walking up to the Chateau … K even read the guide book about how the previous owners had fallen in love with the dilapidated ruin and restored it …. twice, due to a fire. However, it got hotter and hotter and we would have expired on walking up the hill. All we could think of was how lovely our friend’s pool near Besancon had been when we were really hot. Wifi switched on, google used and a quick phone call … campsite at Brantome with pool and no need to book. 45 mins later we handed over the £15 for our pitch and an hour later we were in the pool. Quite an expensive price to pay for a swim, but Oh so worth it.

We BBQ’d sausages purchased from the pig farm Passion on the gas grill whilst watching a muppet add liquid BBQ lighter to an already lit BBQ! The people on the adjacent pitch were obsviousy as startled at the father’s antics as we were. He proceeded to try to cook immediately (coals not yet hot), which took such a long time that the three patient daughters filled up on bread. You get to see all sorts camping – often entertaining.

94 – Wednesday: Brantome and on to family

We had a wander around Branttome. Half a thought to have a menu for lunch, but being touristy, the prices were double what we had seen in other towns. Settled for an ice cream instead.

Of course J doesn’t need to visit this salle!

Brantome Abbey

Set off for C2’s holiday house just north of Chalais. K had received detailed instructions from her mother and maps from her sister …. it was fail safe to prevent getting lost. As it happens, we pulled off the main road at the start of the instructions only to have a mad English car flashing us like mad from behind …. K’s Aged P’s who had come from the other direction were arriving at the same time. They over took us and we followed them in to c2’s house … un convoi exceptionel!

Swim in the pool and BBQ … just lovely to be with the Aged P’s, Clare, Chris, Niecey, Louis and Zozo and the two hounds. Proper family time.

House surrounded by sun flowers

We brought our own accommodation

95 – Thursday: Chalais and Aubeterre River

K and J drove into Chalais, the main functional town, as Chris called it. Stocked up un petit cafe, bought the last of the wine shop’s EUR2 / litre merlot, which was due to be filled up into 5 litre water containers bought and emptied specifically for this purpose … will have to go back Monday. And ordered two new tyres for Chardonnay … we are assured that they will be delivered to the tyre place on Monday and we will receive a phone call to take Chardonnay down. Just means that we impose on the C2 hospitality a night longer, as had planned to head off to Bordeaux on Sunday.

Back to Perichat for lunch and then we drove down to the river by Aubeterre. The town council kindly create a dam across the river using a whopping inflatable sausage creating a large and deep swimming area, install diving platforms and a life guard. We sunbathed, relaxed and swam, trying to avoid all the other British. Louis skated to the corner shop for ice creams.

On the way back we climbed up the Moulin … Clare engaged gravel mode on the dirt track.

View from the top.

In the evening we went to a lakeside concert. The local small restaurant and campsite host a series of free concerts …. and sell a LOT of pizza & burgers and beer. This evening’s offering was the Blues night. A Belgian four piece, technically and musically extremely good. Unfortunately for us, they sang in English, so we could understand the lyrics. Memorable lines, such as:

– what is that I see between your shoulder blades …. virginia creeper

– my wonderful wheelchair

– my father had a dog, who sat salivating outside the butcher’s

– i want to be press-ent-able at my fun-er-al

We won’t be buying the CD!

Niecey, Louis and Zozo

Ready and waiting for the performance to start … hats to the ready!

The Band!

96 – Friday: Riberac Market and J’s Family

We ventured en masse to Riberac for our morning coffee and to visit the stunning market. French markets are usually good value for fresh produce and clothes / gift, but this one was par excellence. Bought all sorts of bits, from 3x magnification readers to a child’s handbag and foie gras!

Not for sale

Back to Pericat for lunch then we set off to meet J’s son and family at Lac de la Cadie. we built an almost impregnable one for the captured crayfish … not enough to take home for the BBQ.

Ready for the off in Chardonnay

97 – Saturday: Aubeterre, history and jobs!

We had our morning coffee in Aubeterre and then a wander around the town. Built on a cliff with a sub-terranean church (for another time) and lots of narrow streets. As we walked through an old codger, stopped K and J and gave a mini history into his street. This was the oldest building with a massive cellar that stretched across the street to the cliff and had a window looking out onto the chateau. This was the site of the old wooden bridge which was the main entrance to the medieval town. This was the wall that was adjacent to the route to the old bridge and went a further 7 metres below. This was the building that was having some renovation work and when they peeled back the plaster they discovered the remnants of windows and a big arch door … it had been a church … you could see the outlines of windows and door. He told the story that an old neighbour living there was complaining that her dog kept digging up the garden. After a while said hound brought her a petal cadeau … a human bone … the garden had been the cemetery!

Free ice lolly poses …

Niecey

Grumps

Thanks Zozo…

Aubeterre

Spot the odd one out …

Both smiling at the same time … a minor miracle

Back to Perichat via the Super U supermarket for K, J and Aged P’s. The Aged’s off tomorrow and needing travel fodder / K&J cooking for all tonight.

Niecey, Louis and Zozo: you really should not take selfies on my iPad – i will find them!

Jobs afternoon … a full family affair!

– Gran and Zozo on the skunk like strips attacking K’s hair. Gran, you really should not wear hair white trousers around hair dye!

– James, Chris, Niecey and Louis on cleaning Chardonnay. Poor Chard was sooooooo filthy (she’d not been abluted since Copenhagen and done thousands of miles since). Chris jet wash king. Niecey and Louis ATTACKING the blood bath of dead insects on the bonnet and then up the extendable ladder to clean the roof.

cleaner than she has ever been … thanks troops

Check out the reflection in her side …

Days 88- : Blimey – its hot!

Posted on July 19, 2015 by Clunegapyears

88 – Wednesday: Driving and France Passion

Made contact with a friend who has a house just west of Besancon… ‘yes come on over’. But by the time we exercised, tidied up and put the Sat Nav on and set the settings against Peages, we decided we did not have enough time to get there in one day. We basically drove. Stayed overnight in a France Passion … nothing to do with our sex life! France Passion are farms and small businesses with a bit of space around them who allow 3-5 motothomes to ‘park’ overnight. We used them last year on several trips and nearly all were pretty fabulous. This one was in a tiny village called Midreveaux on a small cow farm. We had the parking to ourselves so got the table and chairs out. Quick walk around the village and back for a glass …. gin straight from the freezer :). It is warm.

89 – Thursday: Blimey it’s hot!

With the heat starting, we staggered around our exercise … J made of more resilient stuff as K kept getting overheated and having to drop to a walk 😦

Sally Sat Nav took us down LOTS of VERY SMALL roads; fortunately little traffic. Arrived at our friend’s house: offered and gratefully received a cold drink followed by a dip in the pool. The pool has only been open two weeks and the surroundings are still work in progress. But the pool …. 32C and the water like silk. Just brilliant. According to the thermometer, the afternoon reached 41C. Blimey it’s hot!

We dined out in style at a restaurant called the Cactus … French chef whose Mexican wife is front of house. Don’t know where we put it given our reduced stomachs from our meagre and healthy rations from travelling Scandinavia, but we all managed three courses and a coffee.

90 – Friday: Thunderstorm and Hotter!

Having had a bellyful of food and wine last night, the exercise went awol this morning. Started to feel humid and then a thunderstorm making it more humid. We left about 11.00 just as the sun started with some heat …

Stopped at Beaune as James had not seem the Hotel de Dieu, a charitable hospital, still in use since C15. It has a very recognisable roof and is still part funded from its own vineyard sales. Not sure how that works on the PC front … wine and health! Absolutely boiling, airless and humid walking around the Hospital. Our ice creams were melting faster than we could eat them. Spot the Englishman abroad! Note, no socks though!

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Drove onto a place called Digoin on the Loire. We are in a large aire de camping car. It has facilities and were able to empty the chemical toilet. Attempted to pay for water using a variety of credit and debit cards, but the machine was not having any of it. The weather app says it was 38C – think real feel must be higher as it is soon debilitating. All windows and roof lights are wide open.

Maddy sent me a pic of her and her best friend on a camel; apparently it was very sassy … the camel that is!

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90 – Saturday: Vichy, funnily enough known for water!

Decided the aire was a rubbish place to overnight. Not just the insect sort, but gnats (mopeds) and little boy racers used the large car park as a circuit until about 4.30. And this on top of the noise and tannoy from the boules tournament going on below and, of course the heat. We both slept in the nud, with all the windows open … serve anyone right, had they looked in. But we were in good company as the other 13 ‘vans all did much the same, although i can’t vouch for their sleeping attire!

Not much at Digoin, but a rather pretty viaduct canal over the Loire river. Both J and I used it for our exercise … as we were late up and it was starting to get hot, I Norked, but J ran.

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We lunched and a neighbour helped us with buying the jeton for 100l of drinking water …. he had rung the supplier of the point de service earlier and sorted out the problem I had the day before. Both us and Chardonnay fully replenished, we set off for Vichy.

Vichy was the home of the collaborative government during WW2, but next to nothing is made of this. It is all about the spa drinking waters. And the waters came and got heavier as we started to explore …. I am sure the droplets were twice normal size. We sheltered in a coffee and cake shop :).

Then had a quick look at the park and the source of one of the springs. We did not go for a prescription of waters … apparently you have to book the Dr 3 months in advance!

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We did not linger in Vichy as we would have been washed down a gully. We found a France Passion about 40 mins from Vichy at a chateau in Vicq. As we arrived, we were shown onto a proper hedged camping spot. Offered water and electricity, which we did not need. Asked if we would like to attend the theatre production this evening; which we declined a J has little French and I would also have found it hard work to follow. By now the weather was on / off sun and rain, so we actually managed to get the awning out and sit out for our drinks and meal. Bear in mind that France Passion are supposed to be a arrive with what you need, leave nothing and few facilities, if any … these camping pitches over looking the Charolais white cattle were quite special.

K even made a mossie / wasp trap, which sadly did not catch even an ant, but has brought it with us and is determined to show it works.

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Days 83 – 87: In search of warm and sun

Posted on July 14, 2015 by Clunegapyears

83 – Friday in Frederikstad

More running, followed by packing up and using the emptying and refilling station on the campsite. We are hammered on toll roads as we are over 3.5 tons … somewhere around 3 times a car toll, so we set Sally Sat Nav for toll free. No idea how much she saved us, but the views were prettier than the main road and motorway, if slower and bendier.

We had been ‘collecting’ Norwegian beer and cider cans. You pay a ‘Pant’ (deposit) on them and then post the empties into a machine that prints a credit note for use in the supermarket. The machines cleverly spot fakes … it rejected a Finnish Fosters can. K went in with two bags full and came out with the tinies value in milk and cheese spread. We did well leaving Finland with only about 50p in local currency; K had looked for something for 6 NOK, but could not find anything that cheap!

We stopped off at Frederikstad. K thinks it vaguely familiar .. Must ask Mutt if we visited this … she WILL know. It is incredibly twee and pretty, but worth the stop. It was a fort for over 300 years. Cafes and craft shops now; see the crochet bench below. K had to explain to James that there is always room for an ice cream or cheese as they go into a different stomach. He was eventually persuaded to have an ice cream so K could … too embarrassed to pay for only one using a card!

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And so to Sweden, once more.

We have parked up off the main roads in an archipelago overlooking the Tjorn bridge, which opened in 1960. A disaster in the 1980s when it was destroyed by a ship in mist, who could not alert anyone for 45 mins that the bridge was down. 8 people died in cars that drove onto the bridge … and off.

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84 – Saturday: Another Archie Pelago

We decided to stay on the island and explore a bit. The plan had been to go onto Gothenburg, which is the 2nd city of Sweden and had 4 pages in the guide book to denote its importance. However, we were feeling a little citied out after our two days in Oslo. And the weather looked fair … time to enjoy being outside. We drove to the the tourist information in the main town on the island and picked up a cycling map and were told there was the annual harbour festival going on. We had a wee dander down there and an ice cream (separate stomach, remember!). What was really lovely to see was there was not a booze bar in sight. Lots of coffee and cake, music (including the diesel engine for the country and western railroad sound), local produce and arts and crafts stalls, old wooden sailing ships with joyful bunting. People were having a really good time without the need to get off their faces.

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The whole of the Swedish Ford Mustang Club had convened and James was finally towed away.

Lunch back in Chardonnay and call it a reaction to warm weather, but we both went for a nanny nap. The bike ride became a distant non-reality. We drove to the sculptures / ancient burial mounds and then decided not to go in as it was £8 each. Just as well we had not cycled after all!!!

Back to our pitch of last night and the view of the Tjorn Bridge. A BBQ at the picnic tables – lovely.

85 – Sunday: Driving to Denmark and Hamlet castle

Little to report … we drove, passing Gothenburg …. this will be another trip. Arrived at the dock for the boat to Helsingor DK… paid £72 and boarded almost immediately. Castle in view on arrival so we followed our noses and parked up between it and a marina. We had a leg stretch around the very pretty town and fair gawped at what seemed really cheap prices.

Another motorhome had checked it out with locals… yes it was free. The toilets were free. The chemical toilet disposal was free. And the water was free. And yet, the castle car park next door was fee paying and packed! We did laundry and both showered … it makes such a difference knowing you can replenish water supplies the next day really easily.

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86 – Monday: Ferry Unexpected Ferry

We wandered into the town to replace part of James’ e cigarette and by the time we had done this it was properly raining (again). Our urge to visit the castle was washed away. Something about the rain as we feel we should use the day as a driving day … so we did. Replenished water and set the sat nav for fastest route to Bordeaux, near our destination for 12 days time to meet up with K’s family.

It was not until the symbol of a ferry came up, that we became aware that Sally Sat Nav was taking us down to Rodby for the ferry to Germany … we had expected to go across the Storbaelt and Little Baelt – island hoping through Denmark. A quick phone call to Scandlines and J discovered that the 45 min crossing was less than we had thought it might be … £85. Given the Storbaelt bridge was £36 we decided to go for it. Unfortunately, we had a 2.5 hrs delay as one of the boats had broken down, fortunately we could see it gaping hull in the dock, so no one was stranded at sea. We took a thrown together salad up onto the boat and, as it was 9.00 p.m. when we alighted, we headed almost immediately to a Stellplatz in Burg auf Fehmarn. Stellplatz are motorhome parkings in Germany. Sometimes they charge and often have sanitary services and electricity. We had to do a wander and get coins for the parking ticket of EUR10 … does this count as a campsite? We have stayed in campsites for only 22 nights and in a fee charging marina for 2 nights. Pretty good going.

87 – Tuesday: Shorts and Driving

Exercised and K spotted really cheap shorts and trousers in the centre of Burg – she was definitely not moving fast enough! Given she is using string to hold some up, it really was time to replace some items in her wardrobe. After breaky we set off and returned with 3 pairs of shorts and one pair 3/4 length trousers – all for a grand total of £32. We do like Germany and its prices. The town offered multiple choices of lunch for around EUR10. We also stopped at Lidl and bought fuel on the way. As we departed, the queues to get into the town were humungous. Mostly S and some DK plates all on a much cheaper than home shopping spree.

A driving day and the rain came and went and returned and left again. Was K too optimistic in buying shorts?

Having decided to stop by 7.00 p.m., we found a free Parking … with free, if slow, wifi, at a place called Neuss (nice and free) Ski Hallen.

Days 79 cont – 82: Stave Churches and Osmosis in Oslo

Posted on July 10, 2015 by Clunegapyears

79 – Monday Continued

Having left Flam and its very efficient wifi, we headed off on the E16 for Oslo. The weather forecast for the next 5 days is cloud and showers. We stopped off to look at Borgund Stavkirke. There were 1000s of wooden churches built in the countryside before the (Lutheran) reformation. Very few remain and this one has remained unaltered since the Middle Ages. Slightly ominous as we drew up … big carpark, big visitor centre and biggish price – NOK80 each …. approx. £14 for the two of us. We desisted; we are all for supporting preservation work, but not yet another museum and infrastructure … especially on our budget! Whilst we missed out on seeing the inside, but could see a fair bit from the outside.

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Sally Sat Nav tried to take us off the E16, but as we were not expecting it, we ploughed on. Was it 15 or 20 miles of road works we encountered? Very slow and dirty. Just as well Chardonnay is well overdue a wash, however she has a new level of muck on her existing dirt.

As we have come further south, there have been fewer and fewer free parking (overnight) opportunities; again all part of the reaction against the sheer number of motorhomes and encouraging us to pay for campsites. However we found a lay by and joined a German van. We anticipated the noise from the E16 so close would keep us awake, however, there seemed to be very little traffic …. had everyone else known about the road works?

80 – Tuesday and Driving

Having slept in, we basically just drove all afternoon to the Ekenberg Campsite, over looking Oslo. I remembered staying here with Maddy and the Aged P’s about 8 years ago. Very busy … park up where you can so long as you are 3m apart and try and find a levelish bit – our wheel chocks have made an appearance! Two loads of washing and a BBQ – more fresh meat and enough for 3 meals … Aah lovely 🙂

As soon as we finished cooking it started to rain, so us and all the wet laundry (refused to pay for a dryer) into the ‘van. Quite inventive … smalls suspended from the rotary hanger, jeans from trouser hangers, T shirts on normal hangers, a towel from trouser hangers and the duvet from two trouser hangers … hanging off every shelf, hook and the roof lights. Starting to smell like a Chinese laundry. (J did a 2 mile run on arrival – the campsite was ideal for running as it is situated in a large multi facility park that stretches for miles – nice soft ground for running….).

81 – Wednesday: Osmosis in Oslo

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We knew the weather forecast was for wet … but it teamed down all day until 5.00. Waterproofed head to toe we caught the bus to the central station. Climbed the roof of the new Opera House. The Opera House is really impressive: completed in 2008, white Italian marble on the exterior sloping down to the sea shore. Still raining heavily so we booked tickets for one of the summer concerts.

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Took shelter in the cathedral, which surprised us as it only seats 900. The Crown Prince royal wedding must have been cramped and due the cross shaped seating only half the guests would have seen the ceremony. Whilst the foundation stone was laid in 1694, the ceiling is really low and was over painted in 1936-50 in a modern style. Slightly odd and incongruous looking.

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We persisted in our tourist walking route, but having picnicked under the shelter of a car park canopy we aborted! Back to the Opera House for a coffee and beer and somewhere dry to sit. After the concert we went to the National Gallery. Really well done as it is not too large, all on one floor, and it take you through only one room of icons and more swiftly onto explaining the more modern influences on Norwegian artists, from Munich, Berlin and Paris . So we saw and did not understand the Scream; it was more interesting reading about the two Scream thefts and how one of the 4 Screams is the most expensive painting sold in private ownership. Liked some of the Thomas Fernley and Christian Krohg.

As the rain stopped (for a while) we were able to BBQ and move some of the washing around …

82 – Thursday: Fram and Trams

Running am……….. J did 4 miles up and downand i ran for 16 mins VERY slowly for a lot less!

With a wet am forecast we planned a late start, as it was, it was fairly dry although still chilly. We bussed to the Bygdoy Island (now joined to the mainland as they filled in the sound in C19. I remembered the Kon-Tiki museum from my Maddy and Aged P visit, so we went to the Fram museum. My interest had really been stirred in the Arctic Explorers at the small and old fashioned museum in Tromso. We spent all afternoon here. Two floors explaining about the background to the race to reach the Poles, the crews and the technical developments towards each. The Fram was used initially by Nansen who believed they could be locked in the winter ice and drift over the North Pole. He realised the drift would miss the Pole, so he and one other headed off with kayaks and sledges and made it further north than any one previously. They saved each other’s lives and over wintered in a hut. Sverdup then used the Fram for a scientific exploration or the Arctic. Amundsen intended using it to go to the North Pole, but as someone claimed to be there already, changed his mind and chased off against Scott for the South Pole. There was also information about Scott’s expedition: it really was ill prepared for the conditions compared to Amundsen’s. The other boat there is the Gjoa, in which Amundsen was the first person to make it through the North West Passage.

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All (Arctic) Heros above.

Nansen is absolutely my new all time hero. After his exploring and contribution to science, he worked with refugees from all over and was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize. The Nanson ID card is still in use as identity for stateless persons. Amundsen was first through the NW Passage, contributed to science, first to South Pole and first to visit both the N and S Poles. A couple of biographies straight onto my reading list.

We were so late out of the museum, we’d missed the last bus out so had to use the tourist ferry, but it took us straight to the Town hall Area. We then used our public transport pass to tram and bus around the city a bit. We had planned to walk past the Bislett Stadium, but mistook trams for busses so gave it up as it was getting late. But saw the Town Hall and the Nobel Peace Prize building; Peace being selected by Norway, all the other prizes by Sweden.

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Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels