Chefchouan

Posted on October 18, 2024 by Clunegapyears

12th October 2024 – Chefchouan

15th October dawned dry after a night’s heavy rain – so tent de-erecting (new word?) was good. Each time (only 3 so far) it gets quicker. When K and I got together I was an apprentice for multiple erections – woops! No double entendre intended. She grew up camping. Interesting mountain drive – not for motorhomes! Lots of farming ladies walking laden with branches of trees – K thought one group was a donkey trail, until closer inspection revealed 4 bent over ladies of burden.

Arrived at the campsite in Chefchouan (phonetic pronunciation Shefshooan). The only suitable tent site with electric would have placed us in the way of running ground water! Manager offered us a hostel – beyond basic – we declined! Booking.com produced an apartment 300 metres away – 2 bed very comfortable – booked for 4 nights for €100. Delicious hot and powerful showers! Worth every penny. We drove into town and dropped laundry, ours and Brian’s – early supper – K and I had excellent chicken and lemon tangine – Brian had chicken with veg – Zoa was entertained by wild cats – they are everywhere

More Shefsauntering tomorrow Inshallah …..

*I only just managed to pull Corrie away from the bottom tray in time!*

16th October – Dressed for Rain

Another bad night. K ended up reading till 3.00am. Grr. Mindfulness daily Calm this morning was about appreciating unexpected moments of inactivity and trying not to fill them.
We collected Brian. Drove down to the centre. Collected the laundry. €12 for what must have been 3 loads. 😊

Did a mapmycity app walk, which took us through a couple of squares, along the fortified walls and to the source of fresh water. People do laundry done at the top. Then, the water is collected in the town as drinking water! All the walk was through pretty streets. And lots of crafts such as knitting, weaving, painting, pottery etc going on … evidence that not all the handicrafts are shipped in from China. And all the while, it rained. Full body wet weather gear, including wellies. Even the backpack has a cover.

*Complete fluke to capture the canopy and man str*ipes

Easy p.m. back at the apartment… to appreciate the inactivity!

17th October – a short Shef walk

I’d even packed a lunch. Didn’t get a chance to eat it as the walk was so short. But in the time (embarrassing 1 mile in 1.5 hrs) we could have done 5 on the flat. It was steep. Not helpful to watch a young chap stride up and disappear from view within minutes. Down was worse for me … I slide and my knee started to give out. Did at least one section on my bum! Ho hum. Refreshment at the water source!

In the afternoon, J, Corrie and I had another town wander, an ice cream and a tea. I found a lady selling knitted hats and jackets. I bought 4 big balls of wool from her … €15. Unbelievable value.

Friday 18th – Magic Moment

We had thought 4th night here a waste. We’ve been into the city 3 times now. But we had a luxuriant slow (as in up at 11.00) start. I even unrolled my pilates mat and, even better, used it!

Drove to near the Spanish mosque. The path started as steps, then became a scramble. I was thinking I’ll be on my bottom coming down again. And I’ve only just bloody hand washed the trousers after yesterday! But once at the top, we spotted the easy route down.

There are unexpected magic moments. And this was one of them. Great views. A cafe with chairs facing the sun. And a lovely traveller singing with her guitar. Not for money, but for sheer joy. We sat. Basking in the sun, and the sound.

*The Spanish Mosque up there. Some folk go for sunset*

A short drive back into town. J had an oj whilst I went into the castle. Unremarkable at €8, but a tower with views. My drink was apple juice … I was offered it with oj or milk?!? Supper on the square people watching.

Car now 70% loaded. And off along the N coast tomorrow.

Oued Lalou

Posted on October 16, 2024 by Clunegapyears

12th October 2024

A very basic campsite. But we are pitched on grass, not sand or hardcore 😊. The tent was so wet from striking camp in Spain 4 days ago, there was a puddle in the tent bag. Facilities are 2 x long drop toilets; a bucket and scoop flush. No showers … there’s the sea 😆. No fresh water – a salt water well. But only €5 pn. And a fabulous long beach. Think we will only stay a few nights!!!

We also desperately need a laundrette.
We cooked outside with Brian and witnessed a fabulous sun set. It’s lovely to go to sleep to the sound of waves.

13th October – Akchour Waterfalls Walk

We took the car up to Akchour. There are 2 waterfalls of note. We walked to the smaller and much nearer waterfall. Very pretty with lots of mini waterfalls. A popular area with the Moroccans and tourists.

Brian had to explain to many local women that Zoa, a Vislar, had eaten his breakfast and was no longer hungry. Some really terrified. Too many aggressive wild dogs.
We attempted to walk to Gods Bridge, a natural arch. But the path was near vertical, so we aborted. Later to learn that we could have waded the river, but Corrie is water adverse.

Supper was a pre-ordered sardine tagine … yummy. €15 for the 3 of us.

14th October – Beach walk at Oued Laou

Up late. J’s airbed leaked (stopper, so couldn’t patch it), so he’s on the spare 10.5 tog duvet folded over and my pilates mat. That combined with heavy rain and barking dogs, close by, means neither slept well.

We walked from the campsite a no driving day.

*They hauled up boats when I took Corrie out for her last walk. I didn’t fancy asking for fresh fish in the dark on my own*

*So much rubbish and fag butts. They should redeploy some of the plentiful street cleaners to the beach. The amount* *of waste everywhere is really depressing.*

*A really long beach and* *esplanade.* *So many* *apartment* *blocks* *with* *hardly* *anyone* *currently* *in them. Perhaps* *it gets busy* *in the summer.* *Even* *the local* *fuel station was* *closed.*

The first cafe had no toilets. And desperate for a European toilet experience, we moved onto the Cafe Bristol (there’s a Hotel Bristol in most large towns). Lovely toilets, coffee and cake!

Brian cooked turkey and super tasty lentils.

Tasty Tetouan

Posted on October 15, 2024 by Clunegapyears

12th October 2024.

Cleared the apt and loaded the car by 9.45. Note to self: get everything laid out before packing … amazing how i can never pack the same. Corrie travelled some of the journey with a chair across her.

We do like a journey with a stop. Tetouan is known as the Daughter of Grenada due to Andalucian architecture. All very grand.

*Very Andalucian. Stopped here for coffee €3 including the tip. Not tourist prices*

*Entrance to one of* the King’s palaces. He destroyed a garden, so had another *built* *elsewhere*

Then you enter the Medina. A huge rabbit warren of narrow passageways. First all the jewellers, clothes and then leather products.

Leading to the tannery. Fortunately, this didn’t stink, as not used since the Romans.

We only had 3 men offer to guide us around. Ice cream a disappointment. May only have been €1.40 for both of us to have 2 scoops, but lacking flavour … they all tasted the same. And definitely no cream. Completely the opposite to my milk shake of yesterday, which was ALL cream, with 2 ice cubes and caramel sauce squirted on top!

Liked this 11th largest Moroccan city … a lot.

Tonight’s destination was Oued Lalou, on the north coast. Camping Ahmed was primitive to say the least! Two Turkish / long drop toilets, flushed by a bucket with a scoop. Showers? Try a refreshing dip in the sea OR stand over the loo and throw the bucket of water over your head. No difference between the 2 options really …the water in the bucket came from a salt water well! But we could pitch the tent on grass and we had the sound of the sea. €5 per night.

And Breathe … Tangier

Posted on October 15, 2024 by Clunegapyears

Thursday 10th 2024

I’d pinned some sights in Tangier. Off we set with Brian and Zoa. the Hungarian Vislar. He (Zoa!) got sooo much attention from the men … cos he looks butch. Little do they know that he is a girl’s blouse. Most women and kids seem to be terrified of all dogs, even our puss, Corrie. And it’s obviously very unusual for Moroccans to see hounds out with their owners.

Tangier was a good intro to Morocco. Walked the medina and old walls. This side of Morocco is much more European due to proximity to Europe and occupation. Spoke to some young ladies during our coffee stop. “This is Morocco, so women are liberated and we wear what we want”. These ladies worked in expensive restaurants and wore Western clothes. One displayed her midriff!! When pressed … married women tend to cover heads. And in the country, women are scared not too. It’s shameful not to comply.

*So many British,* that an Anglican Church was built. Garden very much in the style on an English country garden with Mediterranean plants. Entrance gate guarded by a seriously viscious cat who wanted to take chunks out of our dogs.

*Hotel Continental top left. The place to partei, during French occupation*

Carrefour hypermarche on the way home. Booze in a separate section. A bottle of mediocre red €14. A young chap ahead of me needed a thick blue bag to conceal his bottle of vodka! But I do like the prices here for veggies.

*Two large tomatoes equivalent to €0.27*

Friday 11th

Do not trust any weather forecast. Weather here seems to be totally contrary. Parc Perdicaris called us for a walk. Interesting drive up along Rue de la Montagne. Super sized walled and gated villas. Security guards on many. I googled … min price >€2m. Rebat is the capital, so presumably the Ambassadors live there? So who lives here?

*About 30 street sweepers along millionaire’s row*

*Lots of locals out too … including* *solo runners* *and walkers of* *both* (*main)* *genders*

Walk was progressing well. Nice paths. Nice scenery. Till we felt the first drops of rain. Rain that wasn’t forecast till late pm. It turned into a monsoon. Having set out in sunshine, we’d no jackets. Suffice to say, we drive carefully back through standing water to the apartment … stripped off every soaked garment and had hot showers!

After lunch the sun came out. Forecast was rain! Back up past the huge houses to Cape Spartel. Every place we go has “officials” who “help” you park. But for a euro or so, we’re happy to have the car watched.

*Not much there other* *than* *where Med meets Atlantic. But busy with locals.*

The next stop was the Caves of Hercules, where he is reputed to have stayed before accomplishing his 11th labour. And the Barbary Apes are said to have navigated underground passages to inhabit the Rock of Gibraltar. Super busy with locals, and another €1 private car park.

At €8 pp entry, they were a little disappointing, except for the patterns where the rocks had been carved out

Last stop of the day was Asilah. Two brothers had a vision of lifting the town out of depression. In the 70’s, they invited artists to paint the town. It now has an annual mural (graffiti!) festival.

*To be honest, all this geometric stuff ain’t to our taste. Bristol has a graffiti festival and that is art!*

*The walled old city was worth wandering. However, there seemed to be only 2 gates. How on earth would folk evacuate if a fire, let alone fire tenders get in?*

Having eventually found a gate to exit the old town, we walked to the Jewish cemetary. Closed sadly. Retraced our steps for refreshment. I had a milk shake … a novel version as it was whipped cream, two ice cubes and smothered in caramel sauce … I coped!

The rush hour drive home was like being in a video game, but with higher stakes. No rules and nerves of steel! Clare and I have cancelled the hire cars when the family comes over to celebrate my 60th in Marrakesh we’ll get taxis!!!

Another oops!

Posted on October 11, 2024 by Clunegapyears

6-7th October 2024

Slainte folks – my first blog for some years (J here)….. on the sandy Spanish campsite of San Jose we met Karen and David – friends from Turkey Sundance Camping in lock down 2020 – but originally met on a boozy day in Espana 2016 – fellow motorhomers. They know this area very well – we perambulated along lovely beaches for 20km over the two days. Coffee and vino tinto we forced ourselves to imbibe – no difficulty there.

*Cape Trafalgar, no battle whilst we there*

*Snails* *attached to every twig and br*anch

*Surfer beach … lots of schools and lots of falling off. Super long sandy beach.*

On the second night we supped in a local hostelry – pizza, lasagne and excellent tuna…do I need to say vinlyrinto, oops, it was good !

On the walk home David did a good impersonation of Indiana Jones by leaping backwards through a timber fence into an eight foot deep drainage channel! Not intended but spectacular to see his feet disappearing ! Only a grazed elbow resulted… and all he did was lean on the top bar.

We drove to Veger with K and D – a spectacular town with all white buildings – a good walk and a little wine…

8th October 2024

It rained on our new tent overnight – what a cheek! Dismantling and packing away was better – the second time. K and D sent us on our way with beakers of tea and coffee – we hope to see them in December – hasta pronto friends…..

We met Brian and Zoa for a long day in Algeciras centre – ferry tickets and Corrie vet visit. An anomaly with her rabies vaccination (K: I was 18 days late with one rabies vaccination which invalidates her titer tests) led to more time in the port – another vet appointment tomorrow to see if we can actually travel to Morocco! The lovely vet had communicated with the Spanish Defra in the evening, and we were told to get another titer test done, which they will email to us. Appointment at 10.00 with the vet.

A late (8:00 pm) drive to our booked hotel – very smart and quite retro. The restaurant initially looked expensive but K’s dish of cod and my salmon were both reasonably priced and delicious. Bedtime in a large bed brought quite a few noisy little feckers – mozzies! Not the best sleep but an excellent hotel.

9th October

Being anxious, we were super early. Vet confirmed that there was absolutely no chance of Corrie having insufficient antibodies given years of vaccinations. She showed me a thick wad of titer tests done and emailed for other travellers. We could travel to Morocco!

We bolted to catch the 11.00 ferry, but gates shut at 10.50. So a long wait for the 2.00, which was 1.5 hrs late. Ho hum.

All very confusing on arrival. But Brian had travelled at 0800 and sent us descriptions of what to expect: through a scanner, customs, then sim card and car insurance. On being asked to open the boot, I explained we had camping equipment and that I had packed it. He sent us off, to the chagrin of the cars in front of us having to completely empty everything. Took us just over 2 hours, which I believe is quick.

We arrived in rain and wind at the Tangier campsite where Brian was installed. The chap wanted to charge €40 to pitch with Brian or €30 up a bit with no electric!!! All immaterial as we couldn’t get a single peg into the hard-core under the manicured shingle. Abort! Found an apt nearby for not much more. And we are dry!

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels