Although, I think they are pronounced the same. We had booked an apartment with parking. I’d messaged our height with the roofbox, in case the parking was underground. No problem! Of course, it was underground and of course, we didn’t fit! Resulting in a very steep reverse back up the slope in the heavily laden car! Street parking it was, then. Our host assured us that Albania is safe and car theft is rare. Not what we’d heard, but perhaps all the ageing Mercs were stolen in W Europe, not here! We were more worried about the fact that we had to leave stuff in it. We checked on it periodically. But he was right, and the car and our stuff were safe.
In the apartment, we hooked up to the wifi and watched the England game. And I deployed the washing machine.
Great that Wales and Ireland also through, but not sure England will survive the next round based on this game. Our first Albanian wine. Nice but not specialNearby fish restaurant was recommended by our host. Sea bass offered on or off the bone. And beautifully cooked.
A no drive day to wander Shkoder and purchase a sim … £14.75 for a month 10gb. Whilst all the accommodation we’ve booked has wifi, we need it when out and about, as much for Google translate!
Albania was declared the first ever atheist country from 1967. Most churches and mosques were either destroyed or redeployed. This Catholic St Stephen’s cathedral was used as a sports hall.Most priestsand imams were imprisoned or executed.Mother Teresa is claimed by Albania as their own, although she was born in North Macedonia. The flowers were left on her recent Saints DayThe main Mosque. The original was destroyed in 1905 by an earthquake. The Ottomans rebuilt it in 1910, only for it to be pulled down in 1960’s during the atheism period. Rebuilt in 1995 by a private sponsor.What a waste £££. Most buildings seem to have been privately funded from overseas. Half the main pedestrian Street.Typical mid rise accommodation
We didn’t get far down the main street before we stopped for a boozy salad. No alcohol in the salad, but lots in us. In the evening, after a nanny nap, we found the other end of the long main street, with lots of stray and over friendly dogs. And people. So many folk out. Had a rubbish grill meal but chatted to an Australian Slovenian couple who told us of their fave places for our return trip. Yes, we’ve decided that we really ought to do Albania properly. So after our 10 days in Corfu with the Aged Ps, we come back. Got the month on a sim now!
The other end of the main streetThe mosque again, but lit upCaged canaries here too 😔 Driving school cars are often aging Mercs. One man and hishorseOne man and his cow
Leaving Shkoder town, we headed for Rozafa Castle. But the road kept shrinking, and cars just kept coming the other way. We valued our car panels and nerves, so we aborted.
Roads fine to our next stop, but driving not. We driven in Paris during rush hour. Milan, Naples and Sicily. Never ever have we experienced under taking, over taking, and general free for all at roundabouts and junctions. Throw in the cyclists, pedestrians, and the odd cow or donkey who all think they have right of way. The government has imposed very slow speed limits, which everyone ignores. And a LOT of speed bumps.
We arrived, car panels intact, to stop at the Mesi bridge built in 1770, one of the longest Ottoman bridges. Reinforced with additional arches (13 of them), so architecturally significant. Despite the river being dry now, there are huge river bank defences, so there must be a torrential flow after rain.
It has been restored but the force of water has created cracks. Remains of the old new bridgeIt ain’t straightProtective banks
We aborted the next castle too, as didn’t like the path up. So it wasn’t to be a castles day! According to the guidebook, the Ottomans had destroyed it, so it was probably little to see. And what there would have been, would have been overgrown like the path.
Walk through this hamlet to the 2nd aborted castleProper mountains 9Chicksat our lunch stop. Chicken had to pre-ordered … I’m sure they would have wrung the neck of one of the garden ones!
We then headed up to Koman. Another interesting road. I use the term loosely. 32km of bits of tarmac with lots of disintegration and subsidence. A very slow drive but lovely views. Would have been great for wild camping in the van. Overnight was a hotel in Koman and a fab meal at a local restaurant. So much food, it was also lunch the next day. Bonus, as we’d been told only a sandwich shop at ferry port.
Fisheries along the road to KomanI lay on a hotel sun lounger for a while … recovering from the bumpy road!
We drove fast to Sangatte which gave us a day in hand to rest before our tunnel. I did enquire about bringing our crossing forward a day but that would have cost us a further £70. We managed to hold back from spending that cost and possibly more at the near fish restaurant. We ate up the last of our tinned food 😔
I sorted and bagged the food cupboards and did admin. We walked along the beach and found an ice cream. We also ran … me reluctantly but J had put the scales out and they guilted me into it.
The new aire at SangatteHave to remind ourselves that these German bunkers were to keep us out. Fabconcrete walkway.
Back in Blighty we booked Jez onto Woodlands Farm in Chichester for 3 nights. But only stayed there one night. Mum cooked for us and we stayed over. I should mention that she also dealt with load after load of laundry … from mattress protectors to rugs etc. The house had our stuff drying off every door. Dad had tried to start both cars before we arrived the 12 year Merc started immediately. The 18 month Greek Vitara was dead as a dodo. The lithium battery starter pack got it going and we drove it up to London on Sunday. If there was anything else wrong with it, we wanted to know before we set off!
Lovely walk around Battersea Park before Maddy and Jordan cooked Sunday lunchSpotty coat for a spotty dog … too big for Kevin the grandpup
With both cars parked next to Jez, I emptied Jez and made 4 piles outside. 1. Not to be used until Crete and going in the roofbox. 2. Not to be used until we get to Albania and Corfu going in the boot. 3. Used on our journey to Albania, small 12v fridge, some clothes, picnic equipment and Corrie! 4. Stuff for storage at the Aged Ps, such as the twin tub. Then I loaded it all … was taught to pack by my father!
J drove up to Egham to see Sinead and baby K-M and so avoided the packing! Necessary though as we were doing a fast turnaround.
On Tuesday we both finished cleaning Jez and took him down to storage in Andover. With a list of repairs … top of the list is the fridge / freezer and boiler not working on gas. Mum fed us again and we finished the fruity vodka we’d brought!
Up at 0400 to catch our return ferry. Ferry this leg as their flexi ticket is about the same price as the Tunnel normal one.
Long driving days with stops in Karlsruhe, near Ljubljana and Split.At Katlsruhe we ate next-door to the Ibis (truly) Budget at an American diner. My naked chicken burger came with an unfeasible mountain of wedges. I did leave a few!We don’t need reminding how much we like Slovenia. A wedding party singing and waving flares The historical centre of Split is simply stunning. Fortunately we have visited before as it was rammed with folk off cruise ships. Our room was 3kmfrom the centre and the rest of the town was dirty, ugly and tatty.Quick salad on the stairwell (our balcony) in Split Low tyre pressure came on. Found the nearest tyre repair … on the side of a house. The guilty nail cost all of £15. Just relieved it wasn’t a blow out.
Border crossings were all quick. And so quick into Albania, we weren’t even stamped out of Montenegro. Fortunately, the Greek car’s green card covers Montenegro and Albania. But not BiH, so we used the new bridge around Dubrovnik. Driving down the Dalmatian coast is stunning. BUT so slow. Most of Montenegro is limited to 50kmph. And so we are now in a new to us country for a week … Albania.
Night of 21st was spent at a lovely spot along the Vistula outside Torun. The intention had been to visit Torun, medieval historic centre and birthplace of Copernicus. However, J woke up and wanted to run. So it was Torun or To Run. J ran and I walked Corrie.
Riverside overnight spot. Nice chat in the morning with local river authority man and fisherman.
We arrived at the campsite in time to pay and shower. I threw a load in the included in the price machine. So I’m now on load 3. It’s included in the canpsite price. We’re here for 4 nights, so I reckon I’ve one load to go!!!
We caught the bus and tram into the centre, after a 2.2km walk to the nearest bus stop. I’m sure the campsite website implied the stop was nearer. Ho hum. We met Simon, J’s no. 2 son, who has just taken a job here. Another bus into the old town and a lovely meal in the square. It was an Uber home. 30 mins by car, over 80 mins by bus and foot. At £8.50, it was a no brainer!
On Saturday, we were up and at ’em. J skipped breakfast! Walk, bus, and tram into the old town to join a 10.30 old town walking tour (free … tips). We had time for breakfast … croissant eggs benedict. A large tour group but the diminutive guide had good voice projection. And a very dry sense of humour. She’s managed to convince us that whilst Warsaw it is not as pretty as Krakow, it fought and was flattened in WW2. Funnily enough, she didn’t mention Gdasnk which is stunning and was flattened.
CopernicusThe Warsaw University. Krakow Uni is much older and both vie for top spot. Parliament King Sigismund moved the royal court here after his science experiment blew up Warwel Castle in Krakow.ThePresident’s Palace with 2 former Siefmund’s columns.And another brick cathedral.
In the afternoon, Corrie went home with Simon and crashed out. J and I visited the Jewish Museum. Well, only half it. An audio guide was included in the price, but we still got confused as to how Jews integrated and were accepted or not through the centuries. It’s a massive museum and despite folding chairs you could carry around with you, it was tiring. We aborted by the time we got to the interwar period. It really needs two bites at it.
Modern structure with the symbolic chasmA synagogue Rulers at the start of the 123 years of Partition, when Poland did not exist
An Uber back to Simon’s apartment for J to have a nanny nap and watch the England v Chile rugby World Cup. Then supper out and just a few wines in an Irish bar for the much better Ireland v South Africa game. J’s two daughters were there for this game and Sarah’s husband is from South Africa… can imagine the banter.
Corrie in the Irish bar … an enthusiastic rugby supporter.
Uber back to the campsite. Just as well one of us was sober to get us home … and I wouldn’t dare say which of us that was!
On Sunday we caught bus and trams to Praga. It took longer than it should as I wasn’t paying attention so we over shot an interchange. Praga is over the Vistula River. It used to be a no go area but has been cleaned up. Not much there but a good cafe vibe.
Late C19 Russian Orthadox Church built during the Partition years when Poland didn’t exist. The bells were removed for smelting during WW2 but were the wrong sort of metal, so patched up and left beside the church. It was the busiest church we’ve seen this trip with worshippers in groups and solo, and cleaners.The Catholics built this just down the road in response to the Russian one!Fabulous brunch
Simon had told us about the free Chopin concert in the park. We missed a bus and then got dropped by the bus right over the other side. Part of our route to the concert was barred by road works. And then we were evicted by a park official … no dogs in this park! We walked around the park, up the hill which Simon’s running club uses for hill training!, to the park’s main gate. Late and barred, we sat on a bench outside and listened.
ChopinConcert by Chopin statueAn ice cream as solace for being barred!
We met Simon after and went for a drink. Lovely view over the park we’d been barred from (have I mentioned that before?!) and of the Legia football stadium. We had passed loads of supporters walking to and around the park. And nearly as many policemen. And a squad of riot police with gas, shields and batons! Simon explained that Poland still has football hooliganism. Strange given how safe it is.
View of the park we were barred from. Football stadium over to the left. Whilst we had a boring Uber home, Simon has a scooter. Soooo much fun. I want one as well as a canal boat!
Our last day in Warsaw. We had booked at 10 a.m. Jewish history tour. That was cancelled as we would have had to leave before 8.00! Booked a 1.30 WW2 instead, which gave us time for a light lunch. Good tour covering the Ghetto Uprising and the Warsaw Uprising. But to be honest, we knew most of the content by now. The sheer numbers of killed are just staggering. For instance, 100,000 Jews died in the Ghetto from starvation, homelessness and disease alone. After the Warsaw Uprising, the Germans systematically looted and then blew up 85% of the city. In 1939, Warsaw was the 7th largest European city with a population of 1.3 million. When Russia took over, Warsaw only 6% of the population were attempting to live in the ruins. We walked a bit more around the old (reconstructed) town before Simon joined us for supper in the old town.
Sigismund Column in the sun Lots of these plaques around the town to denote where and how many Poles were shot in round upsThe symbol of the Polish resistance The site of the former Jewish Ghetto wall. It was moved as Jewswere shipped out to TeblinkaThe Warsaw Uprising monument … 1st weeks. They had expected Allies and Russian help.Help was not forthcoming … it suited the Russians for the Poles and Germans to kill each other. Old city wallsMarket squareFishy Tits, dubbed by Sarah when she visited Simon. The mermsid is the symbol of Warsaw.
We really enjoyed our time in Warsaw. Definitely want to visit the museums on the next trip. But it is a big city and doesn’t have the charm of Gdasnk or Krakow. We are sooo citied out that we’ve made the decision to skip Poznan.
We are now on the long road back to the UK to empty and clean Jez and pick up the Greek car.
Given the huge 20km+ stationary traffic jam we’d seen on arriving in Gdasnk, and being tired, we decided not to leave that evening, but to wait till morning. Very early the next morning. We hit the road at 6.15. It hurt! Lots of roadworks and one jam for us, but it was over in 5 mins.
When we arrived at Malbork we put our heads down for half an hour. J went into the castle first and I walked C. Then we swapped. I was a LOT longer than J as I picked up the included in the ticket audio guide. I skipped some sections. Skimmed others. It still took me 2 hours! It ain’t the largest brick castle in the world for nothing!
The Teutonic Knights ruled their independent state from here from C13. They ran out of money and sold to Polish royalty. Swedes invaded and improved. When the Germans took over, it wasn’t modern enough for them to live in. Then WW2 near destroyed. The chapel was only finally restored in 2016. A beast of a castle!
Even having their own postal routes.Some of the Teutonic Knights And their burial sitesEffectively three castles. A water moat and a dry oneLots of displays. Didn’t need to drool (too much) over the amber collection as got my own fine new piece!Dumb waiterOnly 2 private toilets .. one for the chief Knight. The other for the chef!
We stayed in our shopping centre car park for 3 nights. Not the quietest of places at night as one store was having a refit, and they worked into the small hours. And of course, large expanses of tarmac just invite wheelies! But it had a huge Auchan and a 30 min bus into the city centre. Oh, and it was free! We would normally park further out or use campsite when visiting cities. But Poland just feels safer than most countries.
We caught the bus on visit 1 by the skin of our teeth. Expected to be able to buy the ticket from the driver. No, he wafted his hand over to the other side of the road to the ticket machine. Grr … it’s 30 mins till the next bus and he wasn’t going to hold the bus for us. A passenger rummaged and offered us one of his tickets … 3 passengers helping with translations and checking J was free. I recently read a post about Glimmer moments. When you are unexpectedly pleased, happy, grateful etc. This was a glimmer moment. The next day had no glimmer. We missed bus 1. Got evicted from bus 2 as the jobsworth driver told us we needed a muzzle for Corrie. Not had to use one so far this trip. I fetched the torture apparatus just in time for bus No. 3!
We were wowed by Tallinn. More so by Gdasnk. The mediaeval centre was largely bombed and burned in WW2 … the target being the ship yards. Instead of rebuilding as was, they went for Belguim / Dutch style. And the buildings in the centre are taller than we’ve seen … 5 storeys. Making them more elegant and imposing.
And detail also sets Gdansk apart. Detail in building decoration and structural.
These are drain spouts!The C14 crane is wooden, with brick pillars either side. It is operated by a hamster wheel. Actually a human man wheel! Destroyed in 1945 it was fully reconstructed including the mechanisms. It can lift 2 tons to 27m. The former prison just got a new inmate. Church of St Mary is the largest medieval brick built church in Europe. It really is taaaall! Lovely astronomical clock.Modern developments along the river
Day 2 was a Shipyard free tour.
We rewalked the long market street, just as it is so beautiful. Then, we joined a free (tip based) walking tour of the Gdansk Shipyard. The guide covered 2 main topics. This history of the ship yard and how the unions contributed to independence.
We saw where Dreadnaughts had been built, followed by groundbreaking turbine engine U-boats. It was the production of these that drew the Allies bombs. The shipyards had been Imperial German, Russian and stripped of all their technology by the Russians. So when independence came, production stopped. The main market, post war, had been merchant ships for Russia. An attempt was made to revive the ship building, but now the site is largely derelict with small scale yacht building.
We heard how small local unions had been repressed. How after the 1950s, people stopped armed resistance. How many people were either paid or blackmailed to work for the secret service. How in 1971, the government tried to put up food prices overnight by 20%. 1971, the government tried to put up food prices overnight by 20%. How rationing was reintroduced in 1981 due to food and transportation inefficiencies. How if you were caught for being a member of a union, you were sacked, and there was no state support. How various uprisings were crushed with oversized force. How in 1980 Solidarity was born in Gdansk, but their demands were for the whole country. This led to Solidarity being the first legal union. But then, having identified the union members, a year later Solidarity had to go underground and many members were imprisoned, certainly sacked. A fascinating tour, especially given it is recent history.
This press was used for about 150 years. Built in 1980 in honour of those killed during the1970 strike, the monument is 30m from where the first 3 victimsSolidarity was the first union (illegal) to ask for nationwide reforms. This was their 21 demands.
So Gdasnk is definitely our top recommendation for a city break, followed by Tallinn. And it’s the main Amber centre … would have been a shame not to … yes, I’ve a fabulous new necklace. Always sweetened by a 50% for cash discount. Leave you to guess who played good cop and who played bad cop!
Clune Gap Years 