Wolf’s Lair

Posted on September 20, 2023 by Clunegapyears

18/09/2023

An early start … we were on the road at 7.30. There was over 6 hours of driving ahead of us with a stop on the way … Hitler’s war time bunker complex. We had been told the Masurian Lakes were attractive, and had we not run out of days we, we would have stayed. Lots of water, trees and gentle undulations … perfect for exploring on bikes. We had noticed that as soon as we left Lithuania, the landscape became more interesting, i.e. less pancake iflat.

At the Wolf’s Lair we parked in the dedicated motorhome bays, with EHU. Not that we bothered connecting as, with the fridge not working, all we have that can go off is milk. It does … but only after 2 days. We had an early lunch as even J was hungry; he’d missed breakfast, and all we’d eaten was a packet of biscuits. Normally, I batch make and freeze soup so we can vary the flavours. The fridgeless state means I’m buying jars of soup. Bit of a lottery as to the flavour unless I Google translate them. They’re OK.

The audio guide was good. Another one that is gps triggered and tells you where to walk. Hilter and his wartime government lived and worked here from June 1941 to November 1944. And why here? It was part of East Prussia and was close to the Eastern Front. Far from roads and towns. Accessible only by rail and light aircraft. And why the Wolf’s Lair? Wolf was a self adopted nickname of Hilter.

Hitler arrived on June 24th 1941, two days after the start of Operation Barbarossa. At it’s peak over 2000 people lived and worked here. He spent 800 days here continuously at one point. The bunkers were expanded and reinforced mid 1944. The works were never completed due to the rapid advance of the Red Army. Hitler fled to Berlin.

*Huge bunkers. The whole site was camouflaged with grass on roofs*, *fake trees and netting.*

*The whole complex is damaged*, *as sappers on January* 1945, *set huge bombs inside, leaving some walls* *leaning* *and* *massive concrete slabs with twist*ed metal.

*Hitler’s office. Plain decor as he didn’t think he should live in luxury whilst soldiers were fighting. The bunkers were very unpleasant to live in. Airless with the noise* of *ventilation and artificial light.*

There had been numerous attempts on Hilter’s life. He had food tasters in case of poisoning. The July 20th 1945 attempt nearly got him. Recognising that loosing the war was inevitable, a group of officers and civillians plotted. Staff officer Colonel Claus von Stauffenberg volunteered to carry a bomb hidden in a briefcase into one of the daily military briefings usually held in the bunkers, in the hope that the heavy reinforcements of the bunkers could be turned against the Führer through the shockwave of the blast reverberating off the heavily reinforced walls of the room and certainly killing him.

However, on the day of the planned assassination, the location of the meeting was unexpectedly changed to a light brick hut due to Hitler’s complaints about the immense heat within the bunkers that day. This change in venue, along with other factors, such as Hitler unexpectedly calling the meeting earlier than anticipated, would contribute to the eventual failure of the plot. Despite this change in plans, Stauffenberg went ahead with carrying out the plot. He carried the briefcase containing the bomb into the conference hut, making a request to be placed close to Hitler on grounds that he had trouble hearing due to his injuries sustained while fighting in North Africa, which would ensure that the bomb would be close enough to Hitler to be effective.

The bomb exploded at precisely 12:42 p.m., with Stauffenberg having excused himself from the meeting a few minutes before. The interior of the building was devastated, four officers were injured and would later die of their wounds but Hitler was only slightly injured. This was due to the fact that one of the other officers present at the meeting had, for his own comfort, moved the briefcase from where it had been put by Stauffenberg close to Hitler and placed it against one of the legs of the solid oak table being used for the meeting. The result of this innocent action was that the thick, heavy table absorbed most of the blast and this, along with the collapse of some of the hut’s thin walls thus dissipating the shockwave, saved the Führer‘s life. Four men died from the bomb. Most of the conspirators were shot.

*The conference centre where the assassination attempt was made*

There was a display about the Warsaw Uprising. Angered by the attempt on his life, Hilter ordered the complete destruction of the city and population.

It is doubtful that the Allies knew of the location as it was never bombed. Indeed, the Russian army only stumbled on it as they advanced west.

Another longish drive to Gdansk. We re-routed after a 10k stretch of shocking road where I was down to 25mph. Fortunately, we were driving into Gdansk as the roads leaving were completely stationary. It was like Operation Stack: mostly trucks with a few cars. Note to self, leave Gdansk late. Very late.

Parnu Walk and Lunch

Posted on September 16, 2023 by Clunegapyears

17/09/2023

Whilst most folk visit Parnu for a holiday, or at least a weekend break, we broke a long driving day here. Having walked along the river and round to the beach we could see why it is a top tourist destination. A local, a Finn married to an Estonian, told us the town swells by 25,000 during high season.

*A monument to the MS Estonia which* *sank claiming* *852 lives* in *1994*. *We saw another monument* in Tallinn.

*The town itself was pretty unremarkable compared to the historic cities we’ve been visiting, but it had a chilled vibe. Well, now it’s out of season*!

*Lunch was a recommendation from the* *blogger we met in Krakow … https://manvannoplan.co.uk/*. *Almond crusted chicken … couldn’t eat it all. Good value at €10.*

*We drove on for a further 3.5 hours to a parking just off the main road. All the radio masts belong to a logging processing plant. No idea why.*

Top Tallinn

Posted on September 16, 2023 by Clunegapyears

13-14/09/2023

Well, we definitely saved the best Baltic capital till last. By accident rather than design, as we had no expectations of which city would woo us. So much so we stayed a second day. This is despite getting absolutely drenched on the first visit, which you would have thought would have dampened our enthusiasm.

Day 1 we’d booked a free (tip based) walking tour. Our guide gave us a similar potted history to Latvia’s …except the Danes were first here. Then the Germans, Russian empire, independent between wars and then swinging between Germany and Russia during the WW2. With only 1.3 million people today, it is truly a small country. About 30% of the population are native / 1st & 2nd gen Russians … brought over to work and ‘Russanise’ Estonia. Like in Latvia, they go to Russian speaking schools and live and socialise only with each other. Our guide said she’d only recently made a Russian Estonian friend as their paths just do not cross. One has to wonder how many would welcome a Russian invasion.

Estonia lost nearly 18% of it’s population due to USSR deportations. The chap we met the other day told us his grandmother had been deported as a young girl with her parents and two sisters. She was the only survivor. Our guide explained that her grandfather had fought with the Germans during WW1, meaning his name went on a list, so durung Russian occupation post WW2, he went to hard labour camp for 3 years. His wife and son (our guide’s father) were sent to different Gulags. It was many years before they returned.

*Wet misty first view of the old town wall*

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral built late C19 as part of the Russanification. During the inter war independence, Estonia planned to pull it down. They didn’t have the funds for such a huge demolition project, so it survived.

*What was the castle is now the Parliament*

*A wealthy inhabitant decided there were insufficient statues in Tallinn and commissioned the* *monks,* *which* *now* *grace* *the Danish Kings* *Garden*

Freedom Square. The cross monument was built early 1990’s at huge expense and the glass sheets need annual repair. According to our guide, this and a public toilet are good examples of early independence corruption. It wasn’t until the turn of the century when Estonia was chasing joining the EU, *that corruption* was stamped out. EU and NATO were 2004. Euro was 2011.

*Lots of viewpoints, but oh, so misty in the stair rods. Tallinn actually has a proper hill in the city, making for views and a* *more interesting layout. Bear in mind, Estonia boasts the highest of the Baltic states mountains … at 318m. To p*ut into perspective, *Sca Fell Pike is 978m* *and* *Ben Nevis is* *1345*m.

*Cold and wet we splashed out on a lovely* *meal, including pud and a bottle of red!*

Our wet weather gear had been no match for the torrential downpours. We were cold and wet. On the way home, a small bottle of brandy was purchased … stiff Irish-ish coffees back at Jez! However, on the 30 minute train ride back to the campsite, we determined to visit for a second day.

Day 2 was sunny. What a difference a day makes. We left shoes etc drying outside Jez. I spent the morning grappling with some admin for one of our rental properties … the site had good wifi. We used gps.mycity again to follow a route to see most of the sites. Whilst we felt one day was just OK in Vilnius and Riga, as we can’t go into museums etc with Corrie, Tallinn definitely justified a round 2.

Of 46 defensive towers, 26 remain and a significant section of walls.

*The Ukrainian Greek Catholic (!) Church with a worshipping community since 988. The house dates back to C13 and as a church since* *C17.*

Super narrow St Catherine’s passage, now with craft shops which I managed to avoid. I did come away with Estonian wool from a factory, which was established under USSR occupation. I’m gifting Mother the wool … to knit a jumper for me!!

*The hotel visible through this gate was where the KGB put all overseas guests. It was reported that every room was bugged. The story goes that a guest tested it from his* *room by saying that for such a smart hotel. It should have paper in the toilet. Toilet paper arrived in 20 mins.*

So, just in case you’re wondering which city to pick for a long weekend, our top pick is Tallinn. But wear good shoes as most of it is cobbles.

Tallest and Most Northerly

Posted on September 13, 2023 by Clunegapyears

11-12/2023

Leaving Sillamae, we started westward, away from Russia. We’ve felt its presence on the last 2 stops. Russian being the main language, people looking more Russian (whatever that is) and the sheer proximity.

The plan was to stop at two waterfalls in the northern coasts cliffs … the tallest and the widest. The tallest, Valaste, was a damp squib. Actually, not damp at all. It was dry. I’m sure it’s spectacular in winter when torrents race through, or when the spray freezes on trees. J and C declined to descend the 376 steps down to the beach. Followed by the 376 steps ascent. I deserved that ice cream after, even if it wasn’t a very good one.

*Water … no fall. And a drop of only 26m. Estonia really is very flat. The tallest mountain is only 318m. And taller than any in Lithuania or Latvia. To put that into perspective, Sca Fell Pike* is *978m, and Ben Nevis is 1345m … I did fact-check* *these*!

*The 376 steps down to the beach. And yes, Autumn is showing in the leaves.*

Much of the north coast was a USSR military defence zone. We passed some derelict military buildings later. This area is now national parks, and there are walks along the coast. Despite this, we decided we could live without seeing the widest waterfall!

We drove directly to one of the peninsulars of the Lahemaa National Park … the Parispea Penisula. I’m sure pronouncing it Paris-pea must be incorrect. This is Estonia’s most northerly point.

*We didn’t much fancy crossing the seaweed, so this was as far as we went. Judging by the cairn on top of a large rock, others had. It was enough for us to jump from boulder to boulder thus* *far.*

*Lots of boulders brought down by retreating glaciers*. *A really* *tranquil* *place*.

We struck up a a conversation with a young Estonian. His parents had bought their forest house just after independence for about €15,000. He talked about the ‘them and us’ … Russian speakers who don’t speak Estonian. Segregated schools and living areas. The female prime minister had started an initiative to make all kindergartens Estonian speaking to further integration. The flaw is that there are insufficient teachers. We’ve since learnt that the PM is in the mire for loaning her husband money… he runs a company in Russia. I’d read that the government was concerned that Estonians wouldn’t have the will to fight a Russian invasion. His response was one word. NATO.

We stayed there overnight. It’s a permitted forestry camping spot with small bins and compost toilets. The main carpark had about 6 campers in it, so we stayed in the one just a bit back on our own. It was pitch black at night with some fab stars.

The next morning, we stopped at Viinistu on the P-pea Penisula (chortle). It’s a tiny hamlet with a decent art gallery in a former fish processing collective, restaurant and hotel. All Estonian artists from C18 to present day. It was set up by Jaan Manitski who had fled Estonia as a baby with his parents to Vienna, Finland, and then Sweden. Made his fortune as the financial manager for ABBA! He lived in exile until independence. He was a mushroom farmer, co-owner of a daily newspaper and politician – Minister of Foreign Affairs 1992. He established the art gallery in 2003. Would like him at a dinner party!

Silly Me … it doesn’t exist

Posted on September 11, 2023 by Clunegapyears

11/09/2023

We drove though, and then had a wander through a town that didn’t exit. During the Russian occupation, since WWII, it was a secret town. It didn’t even appear on maps. Sillamae (Silly Me) had long since been a mining town. The Swedes had extracted ores and then oil shale. The Russians discovered that the oil shale contained small amounts of uranium. It was developed to become USSR’s 3rd largest uranium mine and processing plant. But they needed a workforce. 5000 Russian political prisoners built the mine and 3800 Baltic Prioners of War (they’d served in the German army) built the accommodation. Blocks of apartments for workers and villas for management. All was designed by Russia in the Stalinist Neo classisist style in the 1940s and 50s. Wide boulevards with decorated facades. As the town grew, further apartment blocks in later Russian architectural styles were built. A Kulturhaus was built. The town hall was built with a spire to make the centre look more like a normal Estonian village. No churches as Communist Russia saw religion as a threat. Sillamae was described as a gilded cage for its residents. They couldn’t leave and people couldn’t visit. A large portion of the population was Russian, moved in to work at the mine. And it still feels very Russian.

When Estonia gained independence in 1991 the uranium extraction and processing stopped. Other precious metals are now mined by an America company. But the EU has had to step in to contain the uranium radio active waste … radiation levels are within acceptable levels … for now!

We wandered in from our parking and had a few drinks. Hard to find bars or restaurants in the centre. Even the shops seemed camouflaged.

*Our overnight … disturbed a little by air horns of trucks from the mine.*

The next morning we wandered back into the centre to visit the museum, housed in the nuclear bunker under the Kulturhaus. It was shut, but the Kulturhaus was open. A Russian speaking member of staff showed me around using Google translate. After independence, the director of the building protected the building from the de-Russianising that was prevalent.