Wroclaw: a history lesson

Posted on August 15, 2023 by Clunegapyears

13-14/08/2023

Leaving the bustle of Karpacz, we motored to Magnolia Park. Sounds like an American TV show? Appropriate, as it was a huge retail mall. There was a Decathalon, but I restrained myself. I don’t like shopping but always find something I most definitely need in outdoor shops. I did make use of both the toilets and Carrefour!

I accosted several people with a gin dobry (hello, not a gin and mixer), and do you speak English? A Russian native speaker with excellent English helped me. I would love to have asked how come she speaks Russian, but I’d already delayed her enough. I downloaded the Jakdojade transport app. It is brilliant. Real-time info on when busses and trams nearby are leaving for your selected destination. And a gps map to help you walk to your stop. It’s a model of how a transport system should work. J, being over 65, was free and each trip was under £1 for me.

After a quick lunch, we went into Wroclaw. No gps.my city downloadable walking tour, despite it being Poland’s 3rd largest city. I asked in the Tourist Information, but none available I was told! I later found an interactive map, which helped guide us. In the meantime, we used the guidebook and tried to identify the main sites. We ended up on the original city originally an island, which houses the ecclesiastical area. Nice.

*Ostrow Tumski where* *the bishopric* *was* *formed in 1000*. *The city* *moved in 12*92

*Kids wandering around with maps and stickers (and parents!)* *Dwarf hunting. They were created as an amusing dig at the idiosyncrasies of Communism and now represent significant events.*

Desperate for a sit down (and pee) we sought out a cafe. No. 1 choice was aborted … 20 mins to get a menu and then no sign of staff to take the order. We left! No. 2 choice was a gem. After my first Apperol of the trip, 2 actually, we decided to eat there. The young girls were lovely and we had taken root.

*J’s delicious salmon on black quinoa and citrus notes.*

*Always a risk that* *duck breast* *will not* *be tender …* *this was perfect* *with raspberry* *and* *rhubarb* *notes!!*

On Monday we wandered a few more sights, before brunch.

*Hansel and Gretel houses, as they’re holding hands!*

*Eggs royale for brunch for both of us.*

We joined a ‘free / tip what you think’ walking tour with the focus on Wroclaw Jews and WW2. Local Lucas had read history and been a tour guide for 11 years. Excellent English and possibly one of the best walking tours we’ve done. This part of Poland had been German until 1948. It had the 3rd largest Jewish population in Germany. The town was heavily pro Nazi. After Krystallnacht, half the Jews fled. The remainder ended up at extermination camps. Treatment of Jews in Wroclaw swung from inclusion to persecution over the previous centuries. And even more sadly persecution in 1968. The economy was in freefall, and people couldn’t afford bread. The government had cast blame. It landed on the Jews. A number were allowed to get passports and leave Poland. Only 54 years ago!

Not until 1945 did Wroclaw receive a few Allied bombs but was ‘given’ to the Russians to invade. Women and children fled to the hills in the south, but 90,000 perished in the January hard winter of 1945. Men and boys were forced to stay and hold the city. They were more scared of the Nazi mayor who publicly executed any dissenters. Wroclaw fell after very heavy bombing 2 days after Berlin.

Post war, the borders were re-drawn again. Poland effectively shifted west, losing eastern land to the Ukraine and gaining German land to the west. Wholesale populations moved. Lovely Lucas explained his grandmother had been displaced from what is now the Ukraine. With the shortage of housing, they shared an apartment with Germans for 5 years, until the Germans were given 2 hours notice by the Russian police to pack and join a train, taking them to Germany. Under Communist rule, Poles could buy farms and apartments for about 10% of their value. Lucas said, like elsewhere, young Poles now can’t afford to purchase their own home.

*Site of the burning of 48 Jews in 1483.*

*All the Communist era neon signs in a hip alley. Lucas explained he remembers some* *of them in situ* *and being* *the only colour* *in a grey* *city.*

*The synagogue designed to blend in.* *The square* *was the* *site of Krystallnacht*.

Too Busy For Us

Posted on August 12, 2023 by Clunegapyears

10-12/08/2023

On a campsite on the edge of Karpacz. Only £16pn, no EHU. 3 nights. On arrival I deployed the twin tub.

*Just us and one other the first night.*

*By Saturday evening, cheek by jowl. The German roof tent has been invaded by a Polish group the far end and the latest arrival is on their other flank. Somehow, we have to navigate through it a*ll to the stairs to the washrooms. Glad we’re leaving tomorrow! *A lot of sirens going off too, competing with the noise from the group.*

We walked into town. Busy. But found a restaurant with a small queue. Great supper, each dish around £7.50. Wine imported from France … small bottles of cab sav by Paul Maas at £3.50 each. Vodka or beer would’ve been cheaper.

*J had minced pork roll around bacon, onion and mushroom.* *With a* ‘*delicate’* *sauce.*

*I ordered pork loin with mushroom* *sauce*. *Actually, it was pepper sauce (offered elsewhere on the menu)*, *with* *mushrooms thrown in. Tast*y though.

*As well as these fountains, Karpacz offers numerous museums such a Lego and toys.* We *won’t* be *going!*

Yesterday was a quiet day. We needed it after all the socialising before leaving the UK and then long drives followed by busy days. We managed a walk into town to find an ATM and a light lunch … a soup, a huge plate of pate, and 2 soft drinks for £13.10. BBQ in the evening and early to bed despite the snoozy day.

Today, we elected to NOT pay the £16 each to ride the cable car up and down. Being Saturday, the top of the mountain paths would’ve been mobbed anyway. Instead, we elected to walk up to the Vang stave Church. Imported from Noway, where there used to be 400+, now only 40 remain. Rebuilt here in 1842 … no nails. This was busy, so we just had an ice cream. Lovely lunch on the return nearing town.

*Then up a small granite hill.* *(S)he’ll* be coming around the mountain.

*View from granite mountain … impossible to get a shot without other people. Busy.*

*The tower was an addition to assist against strong winds.*

*We didn’t go in. There was a queue for tickets. Then a queue to* *get in.* *Too busy.*

I don’t know why people said I wouldn’t like Polish food. These crispy potato pancakes with rice pork goulash we so delicious, I nearly ate the lot. Interestingly, J had white wine … from Chile … adding fuel to my theory that Poland is too far north for decent wine

Then a tad more laundry, cos there’s water, a van clean. And an evening gawping at the tightly packed campers … the other side of us is empty, so why??? It is a nice area, but just too popular.

Stalag Luft III

Posted on August 12, 2023 by Clunegapyears

09/08/23

For the first time in ages, J ran and I did a short pilates. After all the driving, my back demanded it. My stomach muscles paid for it for the next 2 days.

The Stalag Luft museum started with a short film … the area had been a German military zone, and there were POW camps here in WW1. During WW2, there were camps housing 300,000+ POWs. Stalag Luft III housed 49,000 airmen. Initially, officers and then a further camp was built for non-coms. The German Luftwaffe ran the airmen camp following German tradition. POWs were relatively well treated. They were not used as forced labour. They received Red Cross parcels. To pass the time, they organised extensive entertainment, including theatre / cabinet twice weekly.

Despite the camp’s location …. a long way from neutral Switzerland and the route to the coast was German or occupied territory. Numerous escape attempts were made. Tunnelling was the method. Another factor against the would be escapees was the camp was sited on sandy soil. They used bed slats, wood from Red Cross parcels, mattresses, etc, to shore up the tunnels. After the Great Escape, all beds were limited to 9 slats! The subsoil sand was also a different colour to the top soil, so had to be mingled or hidden. Huts were half a foot above ground and English speaking Goons used to lie underneath trying to ear wig escape plans.

Tom, Dick and Harry were dug simultaneously. One abandoned as the camp was extended where it planned to exit. Harry was used and was a few metres short, and escapees were discovered. 79 escaped. Only 3 made it to Norway. 50 were shot on Hitler’s orders. Two chaps named Churchill and Nelson escaped the firing line due to their names. Lucky.

*We walked through the pine wood, noticing the sheer size of the camps are*a *to the mass grave. The cement lines added in 1961. They estimate* *120*,*000* *bodies. Many* *now exhumed.*

*The site of the exit of Harry, which was several metres short of the shelter of the forest.*

*The museum and our previous night’s parking.*

Bunkery Ostwall

Posted on August 10, 2023 by Clunegapyears

09/08/2023

Pleased to report a dry night in bed. No, incontinence or roof leaks despite the heavy rain. Perhaps yesterday’s leak was the heavy downpour combined with driving, forcing the rain under the lipped roof light. Will need sorting, but possibly be able to be left till Jez on return to the UK.

I took C for her morning walk, discovering some of the above ground bunkers. Poland seems to be like Slovakia … you pay an entrance then share the cost of the guide by the number of people. Tickets £14.50, but the English speaking guide would have been an extra £35. So we booked onto the 11.00 Polish tour, with no guide cost as over 10 people. On my morning walk, I’d spotted audio guide numbers … downloaded the free app.

Obviously, the guide gave a lot more info than the audio guide, but he answered some of our questions in very good English. A few facts:

1. The German army was restricted to 100,000 men post WWI, leaving them vulnerable. Poland was a threat as their army was over 1 million.

2. Germany had to design a defensive strategy. A series of underground tunnels just inside the Polish German border running from the coast north south. Workers from Germany were paid 3x normal wages and could complete a bunker in 2.5 months. The tunnels were worked on for only 2.5 years. Very impressive project management. However, they were never completed as Germany’s strategy became offensive …

3. The middle section, where we were is 32km long. A narrow gauge railway was installed with 14 stations. These are alphabetically named … I’d gone looking for Heinrich on my morning walk as I spotted an ‘attraction’ on the map. No wonder I couldn’t find it, it was underground. Most of this section is now occupied by central Europe’s largest bat colony. Apparently, they are not in this tourist section as they need access to water during hibernation, and this part is dry.

*Overground bunkers, ventilation shaft and* *flame* *thrower.* *Damage* *to the* *left side* *from* *Russian* *guns.*

*The tourist entrance. Fortunately the 5 metre* *pit* *immediately* *through the door had* *been* *filled in.*

*Some room mock ups as they* *were never* *fitted out.*

*The electric cabling and pipes were laid under the floors*

*We climbed down these (and up) adjacent to an unfinished lift* shaft.

*Poland is purple. The red line are* *the tunnel* *defences.*

*During WW2 Daimler* *Benz* *moved* *aircraft* *engine* *repair* *here.*

*We must’ve walked over easily over a* km *each way along this dead straight tunnel.*

Enough. We found it fascinating and can’t believe it only received one line in only one of our guide books. Thank goodness for Atlas Obscura, where I’d found it.

After lunch, it was a short hop to see Jesus

*The view from his feet, confirmed the area is very flat. Apparently there was a public outcry when radio mast were placed in the crown.*

I’m trying to find things to look at to break up the driving. Zagan was attractive and it had a Lidl … not seen any large supermarkets yet.

*Corrie phot bombing the Planets in Zagan*

*A socialite lived here and entertained the likes of Verdi and Liszt, so the th*eatrical *faces above the* *windows are appropriate.*

*Confused as to why Lidl has Greek edition toilet roll.* *Most places in Greece don’t* *even allow paper down* *the pan.*

Our overnight is outside Stalag Luft III, famous for the Great Escape. A small camper has arrived and erected a tent for the 3 teenage children … wild camping seems to be accepted. I had a conversation with a local. Not really a conversation, as my German is sehr schlecht, but it was better than his.

Corrie’s Post

Posted on August 8, 2023 by Clunegapyears

Summer 2023 – August I think… They say we’re in Ecosse – sounds Franglais to me….. I think we are in Scotland – home of Andy Murray, Murrayfield, Muray Firth and Murraymints ! I made the last one up…..

I must talk about Oscar – very sadly passed away in Calais – my mate – we used to snuggle together on his bed at night. But no pain or suffering which was good – much missed…

Back to Ecosseshire – we visited the Elphins – giant metal horses which changed colour at night. Then the Falkirk Wheel – they made me go upside in this device – Not my fancy at all. We ran along the canal – I went slow to make them look fast – the things I do for them….but they do look after us – sorry me…..

Got to see / sniff old and new friends. Sotland – Jesus – very lively but didn’t play? Scottish setters….. one minus one leg but very agile…..South West England and we saw Evie – a bit rumbustious and Kensey – not too well. Zoa made Evie look calm. Then Doris and Kevin at the same time. I’m exhausted and need my/their bed…

Off to Polski via Rustington – more hairy dogs – a tunnel train, night at Bergues. Polski was in a curtain – something about ironing – K has ironed curtains- why ?

Two days driving and we’re overnight at Bunkerville for a tour tomorrow – I may decide to stay in bed – K made me walk 113 km this afternoon – well, 13 actually. They discovered a leak over their bed – I hope it doesn’t disturb my sleep under their duvet – I might have to relocate James !

Goodnight and adieu Oscar ….

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels