Autos and Churches

Posted on October 3, 2025 by Clunegapyears

02/09/3025

We had planned to make a good start up the highway today but the forecast was cloud all day and some rain. And very cold in the mountains. Not the best when the heating only works off the leisure batteries, which then drain … fast! So we kept close to Tbilisi rather than head to the hills.

J quite fancied the Tbilisi Auto Museum, tucked away in an industrial estate. But I found it fascinating too. Google was super helpful. So was the guardian, who spotted us outside and opened up an hour early for us. And offered to fetch an English speaking guide.

Initially Ford collaborated with Russia, kit cars purchased in return for assistance in building a Russian car factory. Opel, Fiat and then Renault in the ‘60’s similarly collaborated. Renault was a significant car factory shareholder until Russia invaded the Ukraine. They had to withdraw, so sold their shares to Putin for one Ruble. With a buy back clause of 6 years. Wonder if Renault is starting to panic yet?

All the cars are one man’s collection. All the cars in the shed are in driving order with original tyres. Really quite amazing.

*40s, 50s and 60s workers cars based on Fiat 500*

*The bigger cars for bosses, politicians and black for KGB. The Continental outside was nearly as big as Jez*

We elected to drive a badly truck rutted road the far side of Tbilisi Sea (lake) rather than go back through the centre. This took us to Mtskheta, pronounced Skayta … really?!? It was the capital of the region from the 4th to 5th centuries, scene of the royal family conversion to Christianity with several main UNESCO churches.

We really didn’t care for the Jvari Cross church, although the situation at the top of a hill was very striking. It is very old, 586-604, and was being propped up internally by columns so you couldn’t actually see a great deal. And there were tourists everywhere.

We drove down into Mtskheta and parked near the river and police station. Nice and safe so we decided to stay the night. But not before we walked to the Sveti Tshkhoveli Cathedral. This was more impressive than the Tbilisi cathedral.

The name means living pillar. The story goes that a local Jew bought Jesus’ shroud from a Roman soldier. His sister touched it and promptly died from the emotion of touching it. It could not be removed from her dead hands, so she was buried with it. An enormous cedar tree grew from her grave. It was cut down to make columns for the cathedral. One column rose up by itself and had a healing liquid that flowed from it. Couldn’t see any columns ourselves. But liked the architectural features.

*And a wedding and separate baptism being performed*

With our trusty water pistol J saw off a number of dogs when we walked back along the river.

Corrie’s Blog

Posted on October 2, 2025 by Clunegapyears

Kalimera reader(s)

It’s been some time since I wrote my blog! But better late than never…

I’ve been with my current owners for seven years! Well, they think they own me but it’s the other way round actually. I’ve taught them their Ps and Qs – James is quite good at peeing (outside of course) and Katherine gets to queue a lot while shopping!

It’s been two years since Oscar passed on – we miss him – but I am happy to be top dog – only dog… we’re on another grand motorhome tour for three months- currently in Georgia (not the Deep South) but the Georgia next to Turkey. Turkey, Georgia and Armenia are our destinations. Turkey was ok if you don’t want wine (I don’t obviously), Georgia is awash with it – and we’ll see Armenia soon.

Being K9 critical, Turkey is bad for people leaving loads of rubbish around – and Georgia is the worst ever for wild dogs! K and J have travelled for ten years and seen wild dogs in lots of countries but this place takes the biscuit – they are not getting my biscuits – well, occasionally…

We liked Ankara but not Istanbul – Kutaisi in Georgia is good and Tbilisi was very good. For the dogs, they carry a water pistol and shoot to soak them – it works… Some days ago I was bitten by a domestic dog – two wounds – a visit to a vet who wouldn’t charge anything, and lots of treats because I was “girl poorly”…..

K is completely potty over her new grandson – on FaceTime she coos and calls over and over “It’s Nana, Nana…”

Time to continue my seventeen hours per day sleeping… more K9 reports later – Kalispera…

Tbilisi

Posted on October 2, 2025 by Clunegapyears

30/09/2025
Dinner nearby last night … lost in translation, but a litre and a half of wine arrived! We did take some home. And the most garlicky chicken 🤤

*A relaxed* *J … anything to do with the wine?*

We did a 3 hour walking tour. Excellent guide, but why do they talk so fast? Sam, the Australian, we’d given a lift to from Svaneti, was on the tour.

*David the guide explaining the Georgian toasting tradition*

*Lunch was good until unusually J wanted pudding. A step (several mouthfuls) too far.*

We both really like the architecture and feel of Tiblisi so will stay another day.

Our Own Tbilisi Tour

01/10/2025

We loaded two bags with laundry and staggered 1.3km with it. Under £10. Georgia so much better value than Turkey.

Free of our burdens, we did a Katherine led walking tour. I’d plotted the main places of interest that we’d not done yesterday with the official walking tour. We had planned to use the cable car up to the view point, cafes and gardens and then take the funicular down. But the weather was grey so there would have been limited visibility.

*Lots of fun statues, I especially love the last one showing the joy of dance.*

Lots of decrepit buildings – shabby chic. Many with cracks from the 2002 earthquake. But economic uncertainty and decline since the Soviet collapse and insufficient building regulations to force demolition or repair.

The State buildings looked the part. Including a permanent demonstration outside the Government building. I wonder if the stormy skies above are symbolic? We checked on which day’s demonstrations were planned.

*Public Services Offices, known as the Umbrellas*

*Freedom Square. The St George was donated recently by a Georgian sculpturer*

*Fun clock tower built by the owner of the adjacent puppet theatre*

*Underpasses, some with shops and a convenient convenience*

*Part of the Berlin Wall – we saw a similar gift from Germany in Tirana*

We both think Tbilisi is possibly our favourite capital. Plenty to do for a city break.

Our lovely lunch of 2 soft drinks, bacon and cheese omelette (J), chunky fries (both) and delicious trout stuffed with cheese and walnut paste as only £16.10 in a side street restaurant. We didn’t eat again.

Gori: Stalin’s Birthplace

Posted on September 30, 2025 by Clunegapyears

29/09/3025

We had overnighted near the Katskhi Pillar, so walked up to it. Locals believed it to be the pillar of life.

*Katskhi Pillar*: *evidence of a church atop since C9/10. 130m* *high*

*Couldn’t climb it as the ladder was locked … I’d have given it a go!*

It was then a 40 min drive to the nearest vet. A funny little shop selling feed for cattle, pigs etc. With G translate, I explained that I wanted antibiotics for Corrie in case her wounds became nasty. Injection applied and bright blue antiseptic sprayed. And NO CHARGE. How kind.

The next stop was Gori. The guide book described it as unattractive. So it was a stop only to visit the Stalin museum.

Not that was his actual name. He didn’t have any emotional attachment for being Georgian. We were lucky to have an excellent English speaking guide. The museum was created 4 years after Stalin died by the Soviets, so nothing was in English, old fashioned and it was pretty much glorifying the man. The guide explained that some people locally revere his name, but she described how his overriding ambition was completely ruthless. Facilitated by his manipulation and persuasive skills. Definitely worth a stop, if you get a good guide.

*The cottage where his parents rented a room has been moved in front of the museum, but closed off for work*

*Stalin aged 12. His father was a cobbler. His mother was very religious and wanted Stalin to enter the Church. Despite attending Theological University (expelled), he did not believe*

*To fund his propaganda and proclamations (newspapers) he robbed banks. He served several terms in Tbilisi prisons and went to Siberia 3 times, escaping twice*

*Apparently he was short and had one arm shorter*

*He was self conscious of his bad skin so images were doctored. This photo journalist ‘disappeared’*

*All the public images of him show him surrounded by adoring happy people*

*His office furniture donated to the museum by the Kremlin*

We drove on to Tbilisi … just as well I’ve nerves of steel with the traffic and crap driving! Tonight is not a dry night.

Chiatura: Mining Misery

Posted on September 30, 2025 by Clunegapyears

28/09/2025

We’d left Kutaisi via the alcohol shop and Carrefour, so it was mid afternoon when we arrived.

I was expecting to see interesting Soviet architecture. Chiatura was a mining town of Manganese and one of the world’s main suppliers. The workers were expected to toil for 18 hrs per day until strikes reduced the day to 12 hrs hard labour. Lack of protection, no H&S etc. But even post the Soviet era conditions were harsh. They went on strike in 2019 to object to 15 days on, sleeping in a dorm, and 15 off. In March this year the mine closed … uneconomic. Miners have been left owed wages and no prospect of employment.
It was definitely the most depressing town we’ve seen on this trip. I know we’re were there on a Sunday, but men were hanging around in groups, many with large beer bottles.

The hope is that the recently restored network of Soviet cable cars (to transport workers efficiently to increase productivity) will fuel tourism. They need to do something about the general depressed feel of the town.

*Soviet WW2 monument. Its huge size is unusual*

The new cable cars are super easy to use. 1Gel (£0.25) and most depart from Central Station.

*The first cable car ride*. *New and French built*

Our first cable car was to near the Pioneer Palace. The Pioneer Youth was similar to the Hitler Youth: activities and political indoctrination. The building was not that old but a ruin.

*Pioneer Palace: the area around a newly restored park*, *they’re still deciding what to do with this*

The second cable car was my error, to the wrong place. Right platform. Wrong cable car. We can walk from here and then catch the correct one back down, says I. The walk was through miserable blocks of flats. Half of which were derelict, others had curtains and washing.

And then two dogs shot out and one bit Corrie. We left as quickly as we could. Corrie has 3 puncture marks in her shoulder, and it keeps bleeding. I’ve cleaned the wounds and applied iodine.

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels