11th December 2024

We headed out to Tin Mal mosque, hoping it wasn’t hideously touristy like the Ourika valley. Kerstin had visited Marrakesh twice before, but not beyond. Tin Mal is of the two mosques open to non Muslims. With planned stops on the way. Of course things rarely go to plan. This was one of those days where things totally exceed the expectations. And led to grave reflections.

Stop 1 Asni for coffee. Hijacked by two Berber who showed us to the patisserie, then spice shops. The main one was a tiny and narrow shop where Kerstin’s orders for spices were ground up. A really authentic experience. What Kerstin saved on the spices, we both lost on the jewellery we were “encouraged” to buy. Both explained that their houses had been destroyed by the September 23 earthquake and were now living in tents.

We left the main road to find a salt mine, but aborted.

The road disintegrated. It had been built in 1930 by the French and we suspect not improved since. A major over haul. Over 40 km of rocks removal to widen. Stones being tipped into the valley. So many earth moving equipment. A very slow drive. We had thought we may go onto Tizi N’Test pass after the mosque, but not at this snails pace.

Onto the mosque. As we pulled up, our jaws dropped. It’s a shell. With walls shored up by scaffolding. A young man approached us. He’d been a mosque guide. He gave us the history. And more. His brother in law died in the earthquake. Leaving 4 small children. His sister now lives in Marrakesh. Nearly all the villagers now live in tents, on what used to be the motorhome overnight parking. Apparently, quality tents came from the UK. But all, and the plastic coverings, are degrading with the sun. Tourism and animals were the sources of income, but no open Mosque and no shelters for the animals. The government is managing all the emergency aid, but it is slow coming through. Materials and labour are expensive. Very little evidence of rebuilding. Our guide showed us the small footprint where he will rebuild his house. One day. We would not have gone to see the post earthquake hardship had we known / done better research, but hopefully we helped the men in Asni and our guide in Tin Mal, a little. We left our tent, which the guide said he would give to his parents.

Dark by the time we got home. Too late to cook. So stopped at an authentic locals place. Choose and buy your meat from the butcher. The restaurant cooks it.