Back to the Middle Atlas

29/11/24 – Another Friday Foxtrot Uncle

The coast generally isn’t grabbing us. There’s only so much surfing you can watch. But we’ve been spoilt by the Greek, especially Cretan coast. Some pretty and interesting towns, notably Essaouria, Oualidia and Casablanca. We didn’t fancy Rabat, the capital, so back to the hills it is.

Three nights in an apt in Beni Mellal booked. Yay a washing machine; our bedding is needing changing, plus a big sack of clothes. Apt was more than we are used to paying but it has a washing machine. No campsites near here either. However, when we arrived … no machine. Apparently, it broke and no one used it! But it’s in the description … I’ve sent the owner the laundrette receipt. No response so far, but I’ll pursue through Airbnb. Only €15 but the apt wasn’t as clean as it should be either.

On the route we stopped at Bejaad / Boujad. A pilgrimage town with shrines to fighters for independence etc. And known for pile carpets. BUT we forgot it is prayer Friday. Nearly all the shops were closed and we couldn’t tell the mausoleums apart from the mosques.

We got lost in the old narrow streets which aren’t mapped in Organic Maps. We worked on the principle of 4 sides of a square although the odd dead end complicated matters.
All that was open but we did find a cafe.
View from the cafe – memorial to someone from the fight for independence from the French

30/11/24 – Beni Mellal Bonus

J has a cold, think it’s a proper cold, not dust inflammation so the walks I’d planned will be much curtailed. A local day, including the pharmacy. And the two laundry trips. Oh, and Carrefour … will eat in the next few days.

Amazing how I’ve learned to find patisserie with dine in! And it’s open tomorrow!

We drove up to the Kaabah overlooking the town. Not high expectations but found the end of the rainbow. Well, the source of the city’s wealth … water. Ain Asserdoun, means Mule Spring. A farmer blocked up the source and demanded a water ransom a few times too many. The townsfolk followed him on his mule to the source and have protected it ever since. Apparently, the castle was built in early C19 to protect it. The build was facilitated by a human chain passing up the materials.

The source
Rather pleased with this pic on a phone

P.s. I’m sure pyjama top has shrunk … blame the driers at the laundry!” Definitely not the cake!

O1/12/24 – Kasba Tadla

Ok, so the patisserie greeted us like regulars!

Once breakfast sorted, we drove to Kasba Tadla. Supposed to be a cascade but more of a dribble and slimey pools from the hydro wall. Time of year I guess.

Locals just setting up the typical street market. We’ve noticed Moroccans have a slow start, things don’t get going till gone 11.
Nice crumbling castle walls
I headed to the French cemetery, but a local said it was locked, the view across to the hill didn’t look inspiringanother wasteland

Corrie attracted a vocal canine entourage. One lady and later a man helped to deter the strays. Nice of them. Tbh it’s been a regular occurrence. Other than one petrol pump attendant trying to put premium diesel in the car, the Moroccans have been super helpful.


J didn’t have any energy so sat whilst I walked. Rather than go onto another village nearby, I drove the poorly one back to bed.

Monument to ??? overlooking the town