Beni Mellal | Clune Gap Years

02/12/24 – Saving the best campsite to last

J a little improved but really not well enough for the reservoir walk I’d planned – low energy. So we decided to go straight to Ouzoud.

Our MA sim 60gb nearly depleted so a quick stop at the WiFi shop before we left this sizeable town. First shop all shut up. A lovely young man walked 5 mins with me to an alternative. Mohoosive queue. And J minding the car, with no internet so I couldn’t tell him about the queue. Bugger. No passport, should’ve known. And would not accept my digital version. Back to collect J and Corrie. An even longer queue! Finally sorted. Had coffee and cake as a reward.

The first choice campsite had a group booking arriving tomorrow so no room at the inn. Really not worth erecting the tent for one night. . Finally found an alternative up a long track. Would not have wanted to bring our motorhome up here, so another win on this trip for the car.

Wow. Terraced pitches with views and space. The owner is German so extras that we’ve not seen on other Moroccan campsites, such as full camper’s kitchen, relaxing area, gas bbq and pizza oven.

With no light pollution, the stars and Milky Way made a night toilet trek less of a pain.

Really did save the best campsite to last.

*Hair is the result of too many hair ideas popping up on my FB feed. J described it as “interesting”!*

3rd December – Ouzoud Cascades

No cake today! But omelettes for brunch, whilst watching bus loads arrive on day trips from Marrakesh. The alighted en masse. Used the toilets en masse. And petted Corrie en masse.

*Hadn’t had an omelette Berber for a few weeks!*

J walked to the falls and then sat in a cafe whilst Corrie and I walked down river past rock pools, which in the summer would be full of swimmers.
Tallest MA waterfalls and definitely worth visiting, despite the tourists.

*All tourists going a very mini boat ride, we don’t consider ourselves tourists, so didn’t!*

*The scenery on the walk downstream is very similar to Crete*

Supper was a tinned sardine and vegetables home cooked Tagine. I borrowed a campsite tagine to see if I liked cooking with it. No point buying one if it’s going to sit on a shelf. Delicious. Will try a chicken one tomorrow.

29/11/24 – Another Friday Foxtrot Uncle

The coast generally isn’t grabbing us. There’s only so much surfing you can watch. But we’ve been spoilt by the Greek, especially Cretan coast. Some pretty and interesting towns, notably Essaouria, Oualidia and Casablanca. We didn’t fancy Rabat, the capital, so back to the hills it is.

Three nights in an apt in Beni Mellal booked. Yay a washing machine; our bedding is needing changing, plus a big sack of clothes. Apt was more than we are used to paying but it has a washing machine. No campsites near here either. However, when we arrived … no machine. Apparently, it broke and no one used it! But it’s in the description … I’ve sent the owner the laundrette receipt. No response so far, but I’ll pursue through Airbnb. Only €15 but the apt wasn’t as clean as it should be either.

On the route we stopped at Bejaad / Boujad. A pilgrimage town with shrines to fighters for independence etc. And known for pile carpets. BUT we forgot it is prayer Friday. Nearly all the shops were closed and we couldn’t tell the mausoleums apart from the mosques.

*We got lost in the old narrow streets which aren’t mapped in Organic Maps. We worked on the principle of 4 sides of a square although the odd dead end complicated matters.*

*All that was open but we did find a cafe.*

*View from the cafe – memorial to someone from the fight for independence from the French*

30/11/24 – Beni Mellal Bonus

J has a cold, think it’s a proper cold, not dust inflammation so the walks I’d planned will be much curtailed. A local day, including the pharmacy. And the two laundry trips. Oh, and Carrefour … will eat in the next few days.

*Amazing how I’ve learned to find patisserie with dine in!* *And it’s open tomorrow!*

We drove up to the Kaabah overlooking the town. Not high expectations but found the end of the rainbow. Well, the source of the city’s wealth … water. Ain Asserdoun, means Mule Spring. A farmer blocked up the source and demanded a water ransom a few times too many. The townsfolk followed him on his mule to the source and have protected it ever since. Apparently, the castle was built in early C19 to protect it. The build was facilitated by a human chain passing up the materials.

*Just below the source, is a well irrigated water garden.*

*Rather pleased with this pic* *on a phone*

*The Kaabah protecting the town and its water*

P.s. I’m sure pyjama top has shrunk … blame the driers at the laundry!” Definitely not the cake!

O1/12/24 – Kasba Tadla

Ok, so the patisserie greeted us like regulars!

Once breakfast sorted, we drove to Kasba Tadla. Supposed to be a cascade but more of a dribble and slimey pools from the hydro wall. Time of year I guess.

*Locals just setting up the typical street market.* *We’ve noticed Moroccans have a slow start, things don’t get going till gone 11.*

*All the gates had been sealed, but I eventually found the entry one. The inside was a wasteland, bar a mosque*

*I headed to the French cemetery, but a local said it was locked, the view across to the hill didn’t look inspiring* … *another wasteland*

Corrie attracted a vocal canine entourage. One lady and later a man helped to deter the strays. Nice of them. Tbh it’s been a regular occurrence. Other than one petrol pump attendant trying to put premium diesel in the car, the Moroccans have been super helpful.

J didn’t have any energy so sat whilst I walked. Rather than go onto another village nearby, I drove the poorly one back to bed.

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

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