mekness | Clune Gap Years

23rd October 2024 – Value at Vouloubis

Dogs allowed, so no one had to take turns to sit outside with Corrie and Zoa. It’s a huge roman site that was an outpost of the Roman Empire. Still much to be excavated.

We spotted where the tour groups were standing, which alerted us to something of note. Mostly mosaics. Fairly well preserved, although how long will that remain the case with bring exposed to the elements. And a layer of sand dulling the colours. Twas on the outreaches of the Roman empire. €10pp. So totally good value.

Brian spoke to a mosaic restorer … she said the site is a major revenue source for the government. Very little of the ticket money is spent on preservation.

We stopped off after at Moulay Idriss Zerhoun. Famous for the mausoleum of Moulay Idriss, which non-Muslim are barred from entering. And supposedly, the only round minaret in Morocco. We failed to spot it despite the steep climb to viewpoints.

*The long corridor to the mausoleum. A wooden bar to prevent non Muslim entering. Muslims duck below to be reminded they are* *subservient*

*At least there were few motorbikes in these* *streets,* *just* *children and hopeful opportunistic* *tour* *guides,* *hoping* *for* *coins*

*Green roofs of the mausoleum complex. Couldn’t spot a round minaret*

Drinks in the square … it was explained that no ice cream anywhere. 😔 A waiter fetched out for J’s coke and Brian’s coffee. We watched near fisticuffs until the police calmed it down.

24th October – Meknes a Miss

Brian decided not to join us as he thought it’d be too hot today. So we had space in the car for our French campsite neighbours. They were stood by the road waiting for a bus that has no timetable. They’d waited 2 hours yesterday to go to Moulay Idriss. Only 30 mins each way, so I had a lot of practice speaking French.

The Mausoleum here just worth a visit. But the Kara Christian prison was closed. I’d read that it was a labyrinth of underground tunnels and rooms with no windows. Prisoners were dropped from above. Closed for renovation. The fortified walls were also being worked on. Spraying concrete over them. And all over the street lighting and pavements. Not worth going out of your way for.

*Kara prison from our light lunch terrace*

*Meknes* *is the only place that makes Damascene … tin fired to make it black, silver thread hammered in, fired and polished. Similar to Toledo in Spain, but they use gold thread.*

*An ornate gate, but also under restoration*

Clothes hand washing, showers and supper back at the campsite.

21st October 2024

The first stop was Grottes of the Pigeons. No pigeons, but the car park(€0.30) money collector’s chickens. They were allowed inside. We weren’t. Peered through the fence and could see that there was a vertical excavation section. They’ve found evidence of human life from 100,000 years ago!!! Findings show that the cave was used as a workshop, for cooking, a necropolis etc. A major find is the oldest trepanned skull ever found- (medical procedure, drilling a hole – I googled that!).

We attempted to get to the grottes des Chameux but the whole road was closed under repair. Probably land slip. So we continued along the Zegzel gorge. It didn’t live up to its hype. Problem is, yet again, spoilt by gorgeous Greek gorges.

*We had our picnic just by the interesting section*

With the road closed on our end, I reckoned there had to be a way to join it part way along. The other option was to drive into Berkane … with no guidebook mention. The lure of ice cream almost swayed the decision, but I held out for the mountains. Anyone who knows me, will find ice cream loosing out, unbelievable.

So we took a non motorhome road with fabulous views, as well as steep twists. J wouldn’t look down! Back to the apt in Oujda.

21st October 2024 – Driving day

To be honest the only thing comment worthy was that the scenery was of 2 halves. The first half was a massive expanse of flat dessert. Not sand as such but dirt and small stones. Very few habitations. I commented to J that I wondered what they did for water. Outside one house, I spotted a tractor hooked up to a water tank. Don’t know what the other properties did for water. A few herds / flocks of goats / sheep, although who know what they grazed on as no scrub. A tough area to live.

The second half had a hilly national park to our left. We could’ve diverted to walk to a waterfall, but it would have added 1.5 hours in driving time to our journey. We saw crops and green things. Truly a drive of 2 halves.

We bypassed Fez to a campsite North of Meknes. Mostly motorway on our 5 hr drive and €11.90. Our destination was where Brian and Zoa were already encamped. Arriving before us is proving useful, as Brian scopes toilets, showers etc. We arrive and are greeted as long-lost friends by the owner, as Brian has pre-announced our arrival.

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

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Vouloubis and Meknes

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