Kracking Krakow

18-19/08/2023

At 8.00, I did battle with the Ojcow National Park ticket machine again. Ticket to 11.30, which would give us time for a short walk and an ice cream.  Well, that was the plan. The walk part was fine … although it was hunt the limestone outcrops amongst the beech trees.

Arriving at Ojcow hamlet, we found an establishment that was open … only just finished cleaning the tables. No ice cream. Brunch then. Not wanting a big meal, we opted for 2 types of pierogi.  Soft filled dumplings with assorted fillings. Nice but not worth a repeat. And very filling. At least one traditional Polish food ticked off.

I had Russkie … curdled cheese and potato which was nicer than it sounds. J had meat.

By the time our meals arrived, time had marched on.  So we had a march back up hill to Jez, arriving somewhat after 11.30. Fortunately, no ticket inspector.

Decision time … where to go next, bearing in mind Kerstin was flying in Friday evening. Not too far, said I.  Let’s check out the free or car park parking in Krakow and do a bit of the city before K arrives.  We went via Lidl for a limited shop as the fridge had packed up (again) in gas.

Having found what seemed to be the perfect spot, we had lunch, J rested, and then we set off on a walk. Just as the city police arrived and started clamping the cars!  Lucky escape for us. We drove to a few other car parks but they were either very expensive, no attendant or just for cars. Ho hum … enough time investigating. Time to head for a campsite.

Camping Smok isn’t expensive, compared to the UK at £33 per night for 2 adults, a dog and EHU, but it seems a lot. So we made good use of the electricity and water tap the next morning. I did laundry: clothes, bedding, Corrie’s beds and rugs. J cleaned and then I polished the outside windows and Jez’s nose. Phew. 

Camping Smok

After lunch it was an easy bus and tram, thanks to the Jakodjade trasport app. We pay for gps.mycity app annually and had downloaded the Krakow self guided walking tours. We planned to visit the main sights tomorrow with Kerstin.  Today, we followed the Jewish Tour.  The area definitely has it’s own feel.  Lots of Jewish business and signs. And some fab looking small eateries.

A lot of synagogues were mostly used as warehouses during WW2. One was used as an ammunition store. Only 2 are still in use.
The Old Synagogue and J purposefully walking off to find a bush!
The main Jewish square.  Shame so many cars.
This square was in the former Ghetto. Different coloured stones marked where the walls were. The Germans collected Jews here before moving them to extermination camps. The chairs are a reminder of how the Jews brought domestic items with them, little realising they would be of no use.  On the far side of the square is a pharmacy. It was the only one in the Ghetto. The Polish owner would pass information, food and hid Jewish families’ previous items when they were shipped out.

Supper was bacon, corn and cheese risotto. Sort of!  Couldn’t find the tin of corn and couldn’t buy arborio rice, so used bulgar wheat.  Different but OK.  I left J washing up whilst I bussed to the airport.   Kerstin’s flight was early and we even managed to catch a direct bus back in time for a few glasses of wine.

I’d spotted the van of some motorhome bloggers on the campsite. Useful chat as they are ahead of us and doing roughly our route in reverse. Some useful overnight tips. https://manvannoplan.co.uk/

The campsite wouldn’t allow a late check out, so we moved 2 bus stops along the road to a perfect lay by.

Wawel Castle. Until we went in we’d no idea how large it was
Wawel Castle… we thought the way the side extentions were staggered that they must have been toilets.
Cathedral inside the castle
Also inside the cathedral… it is a big area!
Kerstin and I went in the cathedral
A pretty side Chapel. Liked the black marble
The crypt was the resting place for centuries worth of Polish Kings and Bishops.
As we’d walked into the castle grounds, we were yelled at … NO DOGS. J kindly elected to sit out.
Another church and another crypt. This one only a few tombs for recent poets, scientists etc. Lots of room for future Polish stars.
Modern tomb
Jordan proposed to Maddy on this spot in February but he didn’t go down on one knee … to be fair there was snow on the ground.
Another church with unusual stain glass. This is the creation.
The Basilica in the main market square … one of the largest in Europe.
The Cloth Hall

Krakow survived WWI and WW2 so the buildings are original. It truly justifies being labelled one of Europe’s most beautiful cities. There are some appealing museums, such as the Underground and Schindler’s museum. Not to mention the castle rooms. It really does deserve a week … with no dog

Castle and Knights in Shining Armour

16-17/08/2023

J started the day with a mini run. I did Pilates overlooking the dessert … my mat has come out in some lovely locations.

With Kerstin joining us on Friday night, we have delayed visiting some of the main sights, such as Krakow, Auschwitz and the salt mines.  It seems disrespectful to call Auschwitz a sight though.   So we drove slightly north to pick up some of the Eagles Nest Trail. A line of Middle Ages castles on limestone rocky outcrops, largely ruined during the Swedish invasions during the 1650s. Bet that was news to you, too.

We only visited the first castle we planned to visit, as we spent most of the afternoon waiting for the RAC. Unhappily, Jez just wouldn’t start. We checked what fuses we could access, and then decided we were clueless, so called the RAC in the UK. Who passed us to their EU partner in France. Thence to Poland and then a local mechanic. The longest time between each stage was 50 minutes, and we were kept informed all the way. They were our Knights in Shining Armour. So the moral is, based on our experiences, break down in Poland, Greece or Portugal, but NEVER in France.

Jez kindly obliged us by starting when the mechanic arrived. The old chap laughed and said it was just because he was here … again my German came in useful. We followed the lowloader for 30 mins, breaking all speed limits, to the garage. The boss had a quick look at the engine and tested the battery. All seems well, and we hope it will stay that way! I can only think I’d left the electrics on whilst I plotted the sat nav and the air con drained it. Then, after a couple of hours, the solar panels put enough juice back in. At least, that’s what we hope!

Ogrodzieniec Castle built into limestone rocks
And some of the limestone outcrops! And yes, I did think it resembled something!!!
What I particularly liked about this castle is the one-way system of stairs and walkways that takes you up and down inside to areas of a ruin you’d never normally access

Given the time lost to Jez’s tantrum, we aborted our 2nd planned castle and headed to a carpark in the Ojcow National Park, Poland’s smallest.

Little solar harvesting due to the trees but bins, benches, a porta-loo and big parking bays for big vans. Free 8pm till 8am, but nearly £2 per hour otherwise!
With no one around we got the Cadac out and bbq’d the marinated chicken served with Katsu curry sauce. I do cook properly when away.