And Breathe … Tangier

Thursday 10th 2024

I’d pinned some sights in Tangier. Off we set with Brian and Zoa. the Hungarian Vislar.  He (Zoa!) got sooo much attention from the men … cos he looks butch. Little do they know that he is a girl’s blouse. Most women and kids seem to be terrified of all dogs, even our puss, Corrie. And it’s obviously very unusual for Moroccans to see hounds out with their owners.

Tangier was a good intro to Morocco.  Walked the medina and old walls. This side of Morocco is much more European due to proximity to Europe and occupation.  Spoke to some young ladies during our coffee stop.  “This is Morocco, so women are liberated and we wear what we want”.  These ladies worked in expensive restaurants and wore Western clothes. One displayed her midriff!!  When pressed … married women tend to cover heads. And in the country, women are scared not too. It’s shameful not to comply.

So many British, that an Anglican Church was built. Garden very much in the style on an English country garden with Mediterranean plants. Entrance gate guarded by a seriously viscious cat who wanted to take chunks out of our dogs.
“But marched breast forward”
Hotel Continental top left. The place to partei, during French occupation

Carrefour hypermarche on the way home. Booze in a separate section. A bottle of mediocre red €14.  A young chap ahead of me needed a thick blue bag to conceal his bottle of vodka!  But I do like the prices here for veggies.

Two large tomatoes equivalent to €0.27

Friday 11th

Do not trust any weather forecast. Weather here seems to be totally contrary. Parc Perdicaris called us for a walk. Interesting drive up along Rue de la Montagne.  Super sized walled and gated villas. Security guards on many.  I googled … min price >€2m. Rebat is the capital, so presumably the Ambassadors live there?  So who lives here? 

About 30 street sweepers along millionaire’s row
The start of Parc Perdicaris.
Views of the Med
Lots of locals out too … including solo runners and walkers of both (main) genders

Walk was progressing well. Nice paths. Nice scenery. Till we felt the first drops of rain.  Rain that wasn’t forecast till late pm. It turned into a monsoon. Having set out in sunshine, we’d no jackets. Suffice to say, we drive carefully back through standing water to the apartment … stripped off every soaked garment and had hot showers!

After lunch the sun came out. Forecast was rain!  Back up past the huge houses to Cape Spartel. Every place we go has “officials” who “help” you park.  But for a euro or so, we’re happy to have the car watched.

Cape Spartel
Not much there other than where Med meets Atlantic. But busy with locals.

The next stop was the Caves of Hercules, where he is reputed to have stayed before accomplishing his 11th labour. And the Barbary Apes are said to have navigated underground passages to inhabit the Rock of Gibraltar.  Super busy with locals, and another €1 private car park.

At €8 pp entry, they were a little disappointing, except for the patterns where the rocks had been carved out

Last stop of the day was Asilah. Two brothers had a vision of lifting the town out of depression. In the 70’s, they invited artists to paint the town. It now has an annual mural (graffiti!) festival. 

To be honest, all this geometric stuff ain’t to our taste. Bristol has a graffiti festival and that is art! 
The walled old city was worth wandering.  However, there seemed to be only 2 gates.  How on earth would folk evacuate if a fire, let alone fire tenders get in?
Having eventually found a gate to exit the old town, we walked to the Jewish cemetary.  Closed sadly. Retraced our steps for refreshment. I had a milk shake … a novel version as it was whipped cream, two ice cubes and smothered in caramel sauce … I coped!

The rush hour drive home was like being in a video game, but with higher stakes. No rules and nerves of steel!  Clare and I have cancelled the hire cars when the family comes over to celebrate my 60th in Marrakesh we’ll get taxis!!!