sculpture school | Clune Gap Years

… unless they’re special!

Sardis: special as first coin mint

25/07/25

We attempted again to buy dog food. Was this going to be another HGS saga? When last in Izmir, I’d found a deceased pet store. As we left Karaburun, I found another shop. A telephone call to a lady with perfect American. Only basic dog food. Back into Izmir. Roadside parking and came away with a 15kg sack of I brand I’ve previously bought. It was the only high protein at the pet store, so I guess not much in demand at £65. Should last most of our trip.

*Traffic hold up. A helicopter dropping water. A car had caught fire and ignited the hillside.*

Onto Sardis. We had decided not to visit many more ancient sites. At c. £25 for the 2 of us and 4x what the locals pay, we could easily give them a miss. But I’d read that Sardis is where the first coins were ever minted, so special. And it was less than £3 pp. Guess not on the main rip off the tourist trail then.

*Similarly, my tea, with yogurt pot water, and James’ water were a non tourist price under a £1.*

J and Corrie rested in the shade. I checked out the huge Synagogue and Gymnasium. A Roman street with shops and latrines. Still being excavated.

The saying Rich as Croesus comes from here. King Croesus of Lydia 585 BC had silver and gold coins minted called Croessids, which were the first true gold coins, with standardised purity for general circulation. No museum showing the coins, but definitely worth the entry.

*The control panel fell out. Glue and blue tack are melting as the internal temperature is 44C.*

A short drive to shade near a waterfall. tried to walk to it, but the track was barred. Another Zeus Alter; blocked with no reason given. I did read the sulphur springs have been largely exhausted by extraction. We had passed a huge thermal springs hotel complex. Despite the lack of access to the waterfall, I’m now watching my second lot of pre wedding photography, folk who obviously think the scenery photo album worthy. Busy evening here with family and friends picnics. I commented to J that as little or no alcohol involved, we stood less risk of being bumped. And staff were out the next morning collecting bags of rubbish.

*I’d spotted a pide place. Like a flat crusty pizza. Yummy. Our first in 5 years.*

Amazing Aphrodisias

26/07

Slow drive to here. Main roads, but rattles, as against bumps. Had to swap story book for rock music as the rattles deafened us.Then the necessary music volume did!

Decided this site would be special as it was known for its fine sculpture. UNESCO. So I paid my €12 whilst J and Corrie dozed in the shade.

The sculpture school provided scholars a better understanding of marble production anywhere in the world. Sadly the museum was closed for restoration so I could only look at the few info board images.

Aphrodite temple 3BC, followed by a civic city 100 yrs after. Civic structures included temples, huge agora, theatre, 2 bath complexes and a huge stadium (better than the one at Olympia). In 400 AD they got bored with traditional athletics and adapted one end of the stadium for men / beast entertainment!

A long walk in 38C but worth it. And no problem to stay the night in the shade.