Stalin | Clune Gap Years

29/09/3025

We had overnighted near the Katskhi Pillar, so walked up to it. Locals believed it to be the pillar of life.

*Katskhi Pillar*: *evidence of a church atop since C9/10. 130m* *high*

*Couldn’t climb it as the ladder was locked … I’d have given it a go!*

It was then a 40 min drive to the nearest vet. A funny little shop selling feed for cattle, pigs etc. With G translate, I explained that I wanted antibiotics for Corrie in case her wounds became nasty. Injection applied and bright blue antiseptic sprayed. And NO CHARGE. How kind.

The next stop was Gori. The guide book described it as unattractive. So it was a stop only to visit the Stalin museum.

Not that was his actual name. He didn’t have any emotional attachment for being Georgian. We were lucky to have an excellent English speaking guide. The museum was created 4 years after Stalin died by the Soviets, so nothing was in English, old fashioned and it was pretty much glorifying the man. The guide explained that some people locally revere his name, but she described how his overriding ambition was completely ruthless. Facilitated by his manipulation and persuasive skills. Definitely worth a stop, if you get a good guide.

*The cottage where his parents rented a room has been moved in front of the museum, but closed off for work*

*Stalin aged 12. His father was a cobbler. His mother was very religious and wanted Stalin to enter the Church. Despite attending Theological University (expelled), he did not believe*

*To fund his propaganda and proclamations (newspapers) he robbed banks. He served several terms in Tbilisi prisons and went to Siberia 3 times, escaping twice*

*Apparently he was short and had one arm shorter*

*He was self conscious of his bad skin so images were doctored. This photo journalist ‘disappeared’*

*All the public images of him show him surrounded by adoring happy people*

*His office furniture donated to the museum by the Kremlin*

We drove on to Tbilisi … just as well I’ve nerves of steel with the traffic and crap driving! Tonight is not a dry night.

03/09/2025

Love a bit of architecture. Got it in spades here. The first bath house was built in 1870 as the waters were known to be beneficial. In 1913 they were proved to be medicinal… radon apparently. Stalin’s first visit was in 1920 and 3 spa houses were hastily erected using 4000 labourers. The Soviet’s ‘acquired’ the territory during the 1920s and declared it a Balneotherapy centre – treatment of medical conditions using mineral water. After WW2 there was an explosion of construction. By the 1950s there were 9 bath houses in Central Park and a further 22 sanitarium and wellness centres around the park.

At its peak there were 125,000 Soviet visitors p.a. There was even a direct train from Moscow. It was not just the party elite who visited. Every citizen had the right to rest and leisure. Good workers would buy a voucher for an inexpensive amount. About one third of a middle class monthly income. As well as baths there were entertainments in theatres, libraries and conference halls.

A bustling and thriving city. Lots of restoration and modernising in 1980s. Until 1991. Georgian independence. Visitor numbers dropped to less than 1000. Most of the buildings were abandoned and stripped of tiles, radiators … anything that could be reused or sold. Refugees from Abkhazia were housed here from 1992. Most of them were eventually rehoused the last ones officially by 2023. Although one building was full of clothes that looked like more recent squatters. And I was charged £1.25 by an elderly lady to enter one, where were living, to see the public areas.

I think we were lucky to be able to enter so many of the buildings. The Georgian government has tried a few times to ressurect Tskaltubo to top spa destination. Recently a number have been purchased and are being restored. Fences around some went up only this year. Stalin came here regularly on holiday. His bath house No. 6 is one of the few that is restored and operational.

We must have walked over 9k. The first park was through a huge beautiful park – Central Park. Loved it.