12/10/2023
Enver Hoxha had a plan for 207,000 bunkers to be built. 168,000 were constructed. Just north of Tirana is the large bunker built for Hoxha’s government.
106 rooms over 5 floors. The concept came from a visit to N Korea in 1964. Built from 1972 and ready by ’78. Enver Hoxha participated in two practice runs, but never stayed. Quite who did he think he would rule after a nuclear or chemical attack?
We drove on to Gjirokaster for 2 nights.
11/10/2023
Two nights in an apartment very central to sites. And thank goodness, it was a pleasant apartment. Nicely decorated and spacious. But why, so far, are none of apartments providing tea towels?
We did a walking tour but it was not up to much compared to those we did on the PELL trip. We pretty much knew everything from the guidebook and web. The guide wasn’t a historian and got a few facts wrong. Kindly, we (I) didn’t call her out on it. But it’s definitely a sanitised history. Wonder what is taught in schools? For instance … They revere King Zog and omit to recall that he ‘removed’ political enemies and fled in 1939, taking all the country’s gold. She said that during atheism, the religious clerics were not imprisoned or murdered. Etc!
Our guide proudly told us that a 10 tower sky scraper construction project was under way. Each to house shops, restaurants, offices and apartments. We couldn’t see the point when other infrastructure projects may help more people and stimulate the economy. Do we resorted to the good old Internet … articles state a high rise sky line is the vision of the PM and most of the bids to build, were won by people close to him. Ho hum.
On being asked about the largest Albanian export, we were told it is people. Again, we googled this. People had no support during Covid 19. Many used their savings to survive. Sold up. Many had already previously lost everything in a pyramid scheme in 1996-97. That collapse amounted to half the GDP!!! Affected about two thirds of the population. Rioting, 2000 people died, and the government collapsed. 30% of current GDP is from remittances from abroad – families receiving money from relatives abroad. The official minimum wage is €364 – June ’23. Petrol is €1.98 litre. Food is not cheap and accounts for 40% the monthly spend.
It’s not surprising that in 2022, 46,460 left Albania. 10.5% up on ’21. And 36,000 are young people. Stats from the Albanian institute of statistics, so likely to be conservative.
Interesting article on how many end up in the UK. Quite shocking how few UK asylum applications are processed p.a. compared to France. https://www.bbc.com/news/explainers-63473022
Albania is the 7th largest cultivator of cannabis worldwide. The market developed post the fall of communism. Oportinism and lack of civic order. We saw a huge number of newish Range Rovers, Mercs and Audis, as well as older ones. Quite a few with British plates. Maddy said all her friends’ drug dealers in the UK are Albanian.
Since the Russian invasion of Ukraine, there has been increased EU investment as Albania is seen as another geographical buffer. Albania has been keen to join the EU and is making good progress to meet the conditions … apparently!
Anyway, tirade over … back to the tour.
Lunch near the New (rebuilt) Market; we did not select sheep’s head or intestines!
I left J nanny napping and visited the Museum of Leaves. The main office for eavesdropping and spying on residents and foreign visitors by the organisation Sigurimi. Equipment came from Yugoslavia, Russia and China until they fell out. Then, Albania had to buy from the west, with hard currency.
There’s a shortage of central green spaces in Tirana. They’ve been built on. But early evening we walked to a large park south of the city. We needed to breathe. It was dusk, but it was buzzing.
10/10/2023
This ferry ride is rated as one of the world’s most beautiful. It certainly bests Gerainger Fjord in Norway. The one I’d booked is a car ferry, and tourists use this route to go walking in the mountains or drive into Kosovo. Had, we had the time, we would have forked out the additional £45 ish to take the car one way. Each leg is 2 hours, plus delays due to chaotic loading. Good value for the return ticket for 2 foot passengers at £33.
A few years ago, we’d planned to take Jez and drive the NE. Whilst smaller motorhomes did make the trip, I don’t think my nerves could’ve taken the reverse across a metal plank.
We then drove the return 32km crap road back to tarmac and onto Tirana. We thought the driving the worst ever before. This was the worst worst ever. Tirana is overpopulated, high density, and manic. Everyone is in a tearing hurry. It was another underground car park! But J watched me inch down, whilst the car park attendant shouted at me to hurry up as another car was behind me. Who incidentally was hitting his horn too! I’m afraid I shouted back when the attendant shouted in my face … not a proud moment. And the waiter at supper tried to short change us. Not sure we’re going to like Tirana.
Clune Gap Years 