Oil, Hills & Sumela Monastery

Oil and Back to the Hills

13/09/25

Although 2 mins from the Fiat garage, we had to go back on ourselves for 6 mins to get across the dual carriageway. We spoke to 4 people, but were eventually told they hadn’t the right oil. Could they get it? I don’t know! Obviously the right staff were not working Saturday morning. They referred us to Master Garage further past Trabzon. So back up along the same bit of road to turn again.

Master Garage said we were too big. Ho hum. This is becoming a saga. So we just bought some oil. It’s not quite right … I googled … we needed C2, this is C3, so we may loose 5% mpg. And it’s partially synthetic … we needed fully, so it’s not quite as pure. But at least we won’t seize the engine. It will have a full service mid November when I return it to the UK.

Zigana Tunnel -Turkey’s longest tunnel 14.48km. The pass used to close for 5 months due to snow. Surprisingly free

With the dull coastline, we continued up into the hills. So we spent a jobs afternoon in the car park of a viewing platform at Torul.

Torul viewing platform where a castle used to be

All alone by 6.30, but then a car arrived. Two young chaps. I thought they were either going to ask for money or tell us to move. Just as well it is dry night No. 1, so I could drive. But no, they warned us we would be locked in until 9.00 am. Just fine by us.

Sumela Monastery

14/09/2024

We checked our planned route with the staff at the viewing platform. Yes the mountain road was ‘clear and comfortable’ for our camper. We didn’t want to return by the same tunnel. A beautiful drive.

I stoped driving a few times just to soak up the views
We had lunch on the way and it was a little chilly so they lit the stove
We had planned to walk but whilst eating, the clouds descended so laziness prevailed

Our destination was one of the top attractions – Sumela Monastery. A Greek Orthodox monastery built into sheer cliffs. Originally founded around AD386, largely expanded during C6 and C13. It had 72 rooms including a rock church and various other chapels. It thrived and was a pilgrimage site until the population exchange in 1923. Thereafter it fell into disrepair, with a fire destroying wooden parts in 1930. The Turkish government funded restoration with it opening to visitors in 2011. It then had to close from 2015-2019 whilst they installed significant measures, including steel netting, to prevent rock fall.
I had not expected so many frescoes to be on the exterior. Sadly so many badly damaged by graffiti. We got our steps in and it was very busy.


Sumela Monastery
J reading in the library … he great acting skills!
The death of Mary, who the church is dedicated too
Bloody graffiti
Inside the being restored main rock church

We have spent the night in the car park here … another duvet night, it is definitely Autumn.

Overnight parking with good stars

More van woes. A drawer screw won’t screw back in so we are having to prop that drawer open. And the inverter is working but not supplying the 240 v system.

No showers either

Driving Days in Search of Oil

11/09/25025

It was always going to be a long driving day. But it was made longer than planned. We intended to stop in Samsun to sort renewal on our sim. We had not factored in:

  • how huge Samsun was. Half an hour of unpleasant urban sprawl till we stopped. And still not near the centre. At times an 8 lane highway. When we turned off to park, drivers had no sense of the space we need. They dash into a gap and wonder why all the traffic is grid locked.
  • not one of my dodgy roads, a dual carriageway, but a mini bus sent what must’ve been a brick up to make contact with our windscreen. The resulting star shape would’ve looked good on a Christmas tree. Once we found a repair place, parking was non existent, so we abused the space in a petrol station. Yes they could fix. 2000 tl. After J’s initial miscalculation of £500, we agreed at £40. But not here. Mustapha would show us. This is Must-ava-fag. He reeked of smoke. He covered his eyes with mock fear as I, a mere woman, sat down to drive. He asked when we got the chip. ‘This morning, a lovely Turkish stone’ I replied with G Translate. He did the repair and said that since we had the damage from a Tr stone, we would discount to £28. A nice encounter, despite his wiff!

We are in Hazelnut territory. They are left sun drying along roads, in car parks …

We drove through Fatsa (great name) and, no kidding, at least a km each side of the road of dealer upon dealer of mini busses and minivans. Mostly white, of course!

Tonight we are parked up at the start of a coastal bulge, which we were recommended to drive. A pretty fishing village and small beach. Not touristy and a perfect antidote to a longer day than expected.

We were very politely asked to move … apparently a market will start being set up from 5.00 am … we’d be stuck all day.

In Search of Oil

12/09/25

We wandered the market. Just as well we had moved, it was large and we’d have been stuck the far end. I bought a long sleeved T for under £3, as I’m conscious that I’ve not enough warm clothes with me. And, oh my, bags of wonderful super fresh produce. The peaches now seem past their best. But the figs! I bought 10 for under a £1.

We continued around the bulge in the coastline. Still pretty but reckon where we stayed last night at one of the best bits. We stopped at the point … a light house and a Greek church built in the 1880s. Jason stopped here after gaining the fleece, so it’s called Jason Cape.

Cape Jason

Afterwards, the road is quite dull. Dual carriageway and sprawling urbanisation. We had wanted to stop in Ordu to ascend to views by cable car. We could spot the cable car, but not anywhere to park.

Just to remind us we are in hazelnut territory

We stopped at Fiat Professional just past Ordu to ask if they could do an oil change. Although, the oil was changed at the service in Jan, it is halfway down the dipstick and quite black. Not treacle yet, but we’ve a lot of km still to do. We were too big, so they suggested their sister company. Yes they would be working tomorrow, Saturday. So we drove further than planned onto near Trabzon. En route, I found my eyes dropping, so had to pull over for a 10 min Power Nap. That is the first time I’ve had to do that this trip.

I found a P4N 2 mins away from the Fiat garage. Very built up area, but by the beach. Too many dogs, so C and I walked the streets, with the water pistol. I had to shoot 2 dogs. Weirdly a sawmill amongst the apartment blocks.

View of the beach that we didn’t walk on due to dogs and huge Trabzon

J and I have been on holiday mood, drinking every night. So we finished all the booze in Jez last night. Including the winery bottle I had been saving to take to the Aged Ps. Jez is now dry and will we be dry for a whole week!!!