09/08/2023
Pleased to report a dry night in bed. No, incontinence or roof leaks despite the heavy rain. Perhaps yesterday’s leak was the heavy downpour combined with driving, forcing the rain under the lipped roof light. Will need sorting, but possibly be able to be left till Jez on return to the UK.
I took C for her morning walk, discovering some of the above ground bunkers. Poland seems to be like Slovakia … you pay an entrance then share the cost of the guide by the number of people. Tickets £14.50, but the English speaking guide would have been an extra £35. So we booked onto the 11.00 Polish tour, with no guide cost as over 10 people. On my morning walk, I’d spotted audio guide numbers … downloaded the free app.
Obviously, the guide gave a lot more info than the audio guide, but he answered some of our questions in very good English. A few facts:
1. The German army was restricted to 100,000 men post WWI, leaving them vulnerable. Poland was a threat as their army was over 1 million.
2. Germany had to design a defensive strategy. A series of underground tunnels just inside the Polish German border running from the coast north south. Workers from Germany were paid 3x normal wages and could complete a bunker in 2.5 months. The tunnels were worked on for only 2.5 years. Very impressive project management. However, they were never completed as Germany’s strategy became offensive …
3. The middle section, where we were is 32km long. A narrow gauge railway was installed with 14 stations. These are alphabetically named … I’d gone looking for Heinrich on my morning walk as I spotted an ‘attraction’ on the map. No wonder I couldn’t find it, it was underground. Most of this section is now occupied by central Europe’s largest bat colony. Apparently, they are not in this tourist section as they need access to water during hibernation, and this part is dry.














Enough. We found it fascinating and can’t believe it only received one line in only one of our guide books. Thank goodness for Atlas Obscura, where I’d found it.
After lunch, it was a short hop to see Jesus

I’m trying to find things to look at to break up the driving. Zagan was attractive and it had a Lidl … not seen any large supermarkets yet.




Our overnight is outside Stalag Luft III, famous for the Great Escape. A small camper has arrived and erected a tent for the 3 teenage children … wild camping seems to be accepted. I had a conversation with a local. Not really a conversation, as my German is sehr schlecht, but it was better than his.