An Unsubmerged Village and a Monumental Plane Tree

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Aposelemis Reservoir

3rd March 2025

We left our gorge overnight location and walked the 1km to the village – through and headed for the barragem. About 3km on the road  – we heard a sheep’s cry ! A newly born lamb appeared with its umbilical cord. It stuck to us and was obviously hungry  – would not take water. We decided to take it back to the village and look for someone to help.  A shepherd we spoke to said he might know the lambs flock and took it from us. With a “efharisto,” we turned back on the road to the reservoir and deserted village…  The reservoir was almost empty, and the village was high and dry. We took a shorter road back to the village. It was “clean Monday” – the precursor to Lent in Greece – the taverna beckoned – wine  appeared as if by magic! We managed to consume a half kilo with crisps… a further vino jug was brought with lunch  – the road back to the van took no time.

Nearly new member to our family … NOT!
Wine led to lunch!
Reservoir cost €330m. Opened in 2012 … nearly empty.  They’ve had to stop supplying water to nearby towns as levels are so low that the infrastructure is at risk.  The residents of 450 year old Sfendili were forcibly moved on, and now their village is well above the water line.

Krasi and Gouves

4th March

After a restful night we headed in Jez to Kera a town with a famous tree! Parking at a basketball pitch – up in the plateia – the oldest plane tree in the world (?) – 2,400 years old! It suffered storm damage recently, as the photos show.

The mineral rich springs serve the Krasi and local agriculture. Better than the expensive reservoir! Ironically Krasi is Greek for wine, but the village is known for its water.
Apparently the trunk needs 12 men linking hands to encompass it. The top was decapitated by a lightening strike, then recently a large branch fell. So sad that after 2,400 years, the recent years have not been good.
Pretty village, with many tavernas for the summer tourists. Worth a revisit as good hiking trails.

We directed our van to Gouves on the seafront via some sharp twists and turns  – to a beach wild camping place – it’s lovely to camp and hear the waves. Eggy lunch – I napped and K walked C. Then we sought a cafe for coffee and biscuits  – not vino! Back via the beach to chill for the evening….

Gouves parking.   Our first ever stay on Crete was at Creta Camping.  Clouds ominous, but no rain.

Meeting Zorba the Greek

5th March

Meeting Zorba the Greek, well his author. Well, to be really truthful, not the author himself as he’s long since deceased. The museum is dedicated to him. Nikos Kazantzakis was recommended to us after James recently gave a talk on James Joyce. Both reacted to the restrictions and controls dictated by the Church, lived for years with their lovers before marrying and travelled. But actually, I thought Kazantzakis is Joyce on steroids. He travelled and lived in many countries worldwide, studied religions, held government offices, had books placed on the Vatican banned list … and had 2 long term lovers whom he finally married (not concurrently!).  I’ve just started Zorba the Greek audio book. Stunning descriptions and use of language.

A steady drive home to collect the car and give Jez a quick clean, parked up by the beach.
Also collected some parcels from Hassan’s bar … the local police are on a money making exercise … massive fines for any one without an in-date fire extinguisher, enough hi vis for all passengers, triangle and first aid kit. All local shops out of stock, hence the delivery.
Jez back in his secure parking, until 18th March when Jez will get new break pads and disks.

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