Chiatura: Mining Misery

28/09/2025

We’d left Kutaisi via the alcohol shop and Carrefour, so it was mid afternoon when we arrived.


I was expecting to see interesting Soviet architecture. Chiatura was a mining town of Manganese and one of the world’s main suppliers. The workers were expected to toil for 18 hrs per day until strikes reduced the day to 12 hrs hard labour. Lack of protection, no H&S etc. But even post the Soviet era conditions were harsh. They went on strike in 2019 to object to 15 days on, sleeping in a dorm, and 15 off. In March this year the mine closed … uneconomic. Miners have been left owed wages and no prospect of employment.
It was definitely the most depressing town we’ve seen on this trip. I know we’re were there on a Sunday, but men were hanging around in groups, many with large beer bottles.

The hope is that the recently restored network of Soviet cable cars (to transport workers efficiently to increase productivity) will fuel tourism. They need to do something about the general depressed feel of the town.

Soviet WW2 monument. Its huge size is unusual
An old platform and car

The new cable cars are super easy to use. 1Gel (£0.25) and most depart from Central Station.

The first cable car ride. New and French built

Our first cable car was to near the Pioneer Palace. The Pioneer Youth was similar to the Hitler Youth: activities and political indoctrination. The building was not that old but a ruin.

Pioneer Palace: the area around a newly restored park, they’re still deciding what to do with this

The second cable car was my error, to the wrong place. Right platform. Wrong cable car. We can walk from here and then catch the correct one back down, says I. The walk was through miserable blocks of flats. Half of which were derelict, others had curtains and washing.

And then two dogs shot out and one bit Corrie. We left as quickly as we could. Corrie has 3 puncture marks in her shoulder, and it keeps bleeding. I’ve cleaned the wounds and applied iodine.

The sun shone as we drove away!

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