About Clunegapyears

Travelling around Europe with James in our motorhome. And now solo, with friends

Days 114 – 117: Pistols at dawn if you don’t eat and be merry!

Posted on August 16, 2015 by Clunegapyears

114 – Tuesday 11.08: Pistoia … third time lucky

A ‘free time’ day. Having not successfully visited Pistoia town centre despite having stayed Saturday night there, we caught the train to see the main square. It was worth it on 3 counts:

Did some shopping including an Italy map book. We figured that since we were planing to spend some months in Italy, the Europe map book has insufficient detail. (We have also downloaded Italian language podcasts, as we really ought to get to know a few basics other than the few phrases J can remember from 100’s of years ago and K’s well used and successful phrase which buys stamps for postcards for England.)
Found the square which was very pretty
Had an amazing lunch in a slow food restaurant… K’s was very fresh tasting … the slow food meant we consumed an extra bottle of white!

K’s Tuscanny Soup! The word soup is used very loosely. Fresh salads with tuna and salsa verde. Yum.

Approaching our second bottle of white 🙂

Pistoia Basilica

At dinner tonight we celebrated Amelia’s 70th AND Tom presented his book on the Clune ancestry. He has put a huge amount of work into researching and writing up, within the context of the Irish history. He now has a hit list of family who had not passed him information BEFORE he went to print. Top of the list was James, followed by Amelia and then Mary Kate, who announced that she possessed the family bible with the family tree! Not sure if Tom can face revision number 212!

Amelia with her cake … delicious!

The Clune Siblings with the family history that Tom researched.

Two of the youngest members … second cousins

115 – Wednesday 12.08: Frenzied in Florence

An early start and the train to Florence. Our groups was gain split into two smaller groups, each with a guide. History and the main sights seen. HOWEVER, it was very hot and very busy. Tourists everywhere. Packed with ’em and then horse drawn carriages trying to get through … James nearly lost his hat to one horse, and I nearly lost James to the carriage wheels!

As we will be spending a lot more time in Italy, we will come back and do the INSIDE of some of the sights when it is quieter.

With the tour guide in Florence

Michelangelo’s David … well the copy

It was a matter of pride to celebrate the human form

Cathedral and Campanile

Basilica’s doors that Michelangelo dubbed the Gates of Paradise

Ponte vechio: A German General disobeyed orders as he refused to blow it up as the Allies approached. It has housed jewellery shops since c.15 as the butchers’ smells offended the Medici’s who crossed between Palaces in the tunnel way across the top.

So after another amazing lunch … K and J only went for one course for this meal … chicken cacciatore 🙂 … we then caught the train back to Montecatini. We checked on Chardonnay, patted her bonnet and she introduced us the tourist busses that she has befriended!

116 – Thursday 13.08: Up to Alto and in High Alt with Football

Quite a number of the Clunes had already caught the funicular train up to Montecatini Alto and said the views worth it. We walked through the park, past the thermal baths complex (apparently people take the waters at 8.00 and have a movement at 10.00!) to the train station. It has operated since 1898 and as one goes up, one comes down on the same track with a passing place half way up. It was a surprisingly long way.

At the top we planned to have a coffee, a walk and then lunch. The coffee turned into a beer and a wine. The walk was a very slow stroll to see one of the churches and the castle walls … Oh and a memorial to Sainta Barbara which included bombs and barbed wire … she is the saint of war amongst other things!

The planned lunch did not happen in Montecatini Alto …. we selected a restaurant. J said in his best Italian ‘Buon Girno’ and was ignored by the waiter, who then flung two menus at J without a word …. so we left! He will presumably never know why he did not get our custom … just wish we had taken a note of the restaurant name … TripAdvisor is such a powerful weapon … wonder if Sainta Barbara would have been on our side?

As we had a bit of time before the first train down the hill, we wandered into one of those magic finds that occur only when you are not looking for them. We stumbled into a small locals’ bar: elderly men with a glass of wine or an ice-cream watching the TV. We moved through to one of the back rooms and discovered a draft set. We had both completely forgotten a) how to set up the board, but the barman helped us and b) the rules, but we cobbled through. Our glass of wine and coffee has half the price of the main square. A gem.

As we wandered back into the hotel, we were informed that the Clune blood team would be playing the Non-Bloods this afternoon. The football match had been declared at a previous evening’s dinner and the Captains had picked their teams, but given the extreme heat, we had thought it would not come to anything. How foolish and naive! Michael had not only booked a 5-aside pitch but ordered taxis to take us there and back. Sharon, the ref, had picked up yellow and red cards anticipating that she would need them – a lot. I don’t know how to say this, but K, the non-footballer, had been picked for the Non-Bloods as the only sub and J, the fittie, had not been picked for the Bloods! K had told Captain Mark that the ONLY time she had played football was last summer, when she kicked the ball at full force into the face of Jimmy aged 4. Even chocolate did not stem the tears. Mark seemed to think that hurting the opposition was a good thing?! It was also a VERY small gene pool for Mark to pick from. J determined to have a go, came prepared in his kit and, just as well, as there was a HUGE amount of subbing going on in the Blood team! Result? Non-bloods slaughter of Bloods with a 2-0 win, despite their enormous team of about 15 subs! Oh Yes!!!

The Clune Blood Team: Youth and numbers on their side!

The Non-Bloods: ranked as underdogs, but the captain Mark scored twice!

A fake dive by Michael, but he did a real one later!

Yes, I did actually get my boot to the ball! As well as my left boob … thank you David!

Husband and wife: Opposing!

117 – Friday 14.08: Leisurely and then cooking course

Free time, which meant a welcome lie in! Into town for a coffee and ice cream so huge, that K could not finish it – unheard of! There are so many Clunes in Montecatini, that Sharon and John passed us on a mission to find a football deflater and we discovered the Mary Kate, Boyler and baby Daniel had been inside whereas we had been outside! Indeed, as we left the hotel on Sunday, the head receptionist said that he would miss us all … the majority of the other guests were half dead neck up!

J declined the cookery lesson … can’t cook / won’t cook. We drove out to a villa, where guests can stay, learn to cook Tuscany style, ride horses etc. The villa was C17, but the staff were very modern. Sandra, matriarch, was a full on personality. Her son, was eye candy and the other teacher Texan Scarlett a poppet. We learnt knife skills, including how to sharpen, chopping skills and all cried with the onions! Laura did a bit more than cry and attempted to chop off a finger! We then made pasta and watched demonstrations on an orange (9 jested oranges!) sponge and Creme Anglaise.

What was really interesting was how long the chopped veggies were cooked … all their juices had to cook and reduce with the voluminous quantity of olive oil. Tip: Heat the veggies in the pan with the oil or they caramelise. But the sauce was unctuous …. no need for lip balm. The pudding was light and soaked up the cream. Over- stuffed again!

Head Chef Sandra with all our choppings and a vat of olive oil

Holly, aged 4, making pasta

The cooking group with the trainers

Days 112-113: Clune Family Reunion Commences

Posted on August 11, 2015 by Clunegapyears

112-Sunday: Heat to Storms and Montecatini Terme to Lucca

We basically expired from the heat last night … could hardly move. Had to set the alarm to go off at 5.30 to pack so we could do it at the coolest time of day. We then went back to sleep for a bit. Packing to join the vast majority of James’ family – 28 adults and 3 babies – in Montecatini Terme, located between Lucca and Florence.

The intention of walking the 20 mins from the motorhome parking to the centre of Pistoia was put paid to by the heat for a second time. We moved slowly to drain our grey and fresh water tanks and emptied the toilet: we are laying Chardonnay up for a whole week. 40 minute drive to Montecatini Terme …. Sally the Sat Nav had received a map update in April and we have been surprised at how out of date she sometimes is … she was VERY wrong as we tried to find the hotel and kept trying to take us the wrong way down one way streets.

Off loaded our bags. i am sure no-one else in this smart hotel has ever arrived in an 8m motorhome with luggage consisting of a large blue Ikea and other assorted shopping bags!

Finding the secure parking space was also interesting with the one way system and we had a street name but no number … it was quite a long street. Once we found it, we were parked with the tourist busses. A barrier with a code to get in and we are in bay no. 21. A German bus driver was washing his coach, so in my best German I asked if he would clean Chardonnay. Obviously, my German was not quite polite enough as he refused and made it quite clear that we should not park there if we had not booked!

Lunch back at the hotel, followed by unpacking and a swim on the rooftop pool. It was blowing such a gale, that it almost felt cool!

A Prosecco reception and supper …. strike that … a sumptuous 4 course meal … parma ham and melon, pasta course, veal with black olive mash (delicious) and finished with ice cream and fresh fruit salad! We did not need breakfast this morning!

113-Monday: Lucca, Montecarlo olive farm & vineyard and Villa Torrigiani

We awoke to a thunder and lightening downpour – temperatures down to around 24C. Blissful, but it actually felt quite chilly!!! We packed our waterproofs and they were much used during the day.

Coach to Lucca; regular grid of streets that were established by the Romans and completely surrounded by high ramparts. Churches were a sign of wealth and due to the silk industry here and the Pilgrim route, Lucca had dozens of them. 15 within the old town are still practicing churches.

San Michelle church

San Michelle church – we sheltered from the downpour

Pucchini was born here. His home is the red brick building behind. He chain smoked and always shown with a cigarette. Apparently his spurious lifestyle was an embarrassment to the Luccase!

Puccini was born here. His home is the red brick building behind. He chain smoked and always shown with a cigarette. Apparently his spurious lifestyle was an embarrassment to the Luccase!

Architecture with hints of Roman

Three eras of building … three window styles

Duomo: frontage off centre to accommodate the pre-existing Campille

San Martino Cathedral: frontage cramped to accommodate the pre-existing Campille

Lunch was at a fattore … apt as we will all be very fat … antipasta, pasta, meat and chips and then biscuits dunked in sweet wine for pud … accompanied by 4 types of wine, The wine and the olive oil produced here. A quick tour of the vines and an explanation about cold pressing the olives.

Typical olive press. The olives are ground up pastes onto the ‘plates’ and then pressed. Nowadays the olives go to the collective large press in the town.

Four course lunch with four wines 🙂 And we did leave unfinished bottles on the table!

We then drove to Villa Torrigiani – the building dates back to the 1500s and is intact. The original frescos on the ceilings were cleaned in 1920, but look freshly painted.

Statues … on the front of the Villa!

The remaining flowers garden as the rest were replaced by and English style parkland

Inside the chapel

After such a full on day, most took a nanny nap before supper.

Days 104 – 111: Granddad James with Jade and Sarah

Posted on August 8, 2015 by Clunegapyears

104 – Saturday: See you soon Munchkin and Hello Jade

We set alarms for 6.00 a.m. – a very uncommon occurrence in Chardonnay. Packed up once we finally got M up and were at the campsite barrier at 7.01 …. it opened at 7.00. We made such good time heading to Marseille airport that will pulled over and two members of the group breakfasted on croissant and pan au chocolat. We all then napped … my goodness … a second alarm clock in the same day!

K saw Maddy off at Departures. Apparently being Squeezey Jet, passengers were all contained in an over stuffy tent. Maddy getting over a cold and not feeling brilliant, felt much worse and bolted for the door. The security guard asked what she was doing and M said she felt she might faint … she then promptly did so into his arms. Consequence: she managed to delay the flight a few mins, but the cabin crew did give her an aisle seat 🙂

K and J then drove to Biot, by Antibes to an over crowded and expensive campsite. We need somewhere safe and local to Sarah and Jade to leave Chardonnay whilst we meet J’s new grand-daughter. Showered and threw a few bits in a bag and caught the train into Nice.

K is not into babies, but Jade is the most chilled poppet. Most babies seem to have an agonising screetch designed to demand attention. Jade simply whimpers a little, then gurgles and smiles.

105 – Sunday: Nice wander and Gaellic Football

K and J exercised … after two days absence: K sweaty puddle but J managed a good 4 miles at a good pace. Amazing to run around the head and along Le Promenade des Anglais. And the hard core Nicois were out sun bathing by 9.30!

A second shower in two days and K’s fake tattoo has very nearly disappeared 🙂

We wandered into the town centre. K and J were last here 18 months ago and the Place Macena was not quite complete. It is now a real gem in the city centre – a long stretch of green, fountains and children’s climbing frames with a nautical theme. Lunch and a wander back through the old town.

106-109 – Monday – Thursday: Nice and Jade

It has been so lovely to spend time with Jade … sorry Sarah – you take second fiddle now! She is such a poppet … K professes NOT to be a baby person, BUT ….

What’s not to love?

Granddad was not prepared to lend a hand when we were entrusted with Jade ... machine gun fire followed by a stinky nappy. Funny that! K's first nappy in 14+ years..... it just about stayed on when jake held up!

Granddad was NOT prepared to lend a hand when we were entrusted with Jade … machine gun fire followed by a stinky wall paper paste nappy. Funny that! K’s first nappy in 14+ years….. it just about stayed on when I held Jade up! Could have been worse … Sarah had Jade producing sausages in the bath two nights running!

Just how beautiful!

In between cooing, we managed a few walks into the old town, a light lunch at favourite restaurant, a bus ride up to a small town in the hills …. called Tourratte! Poo, bum, arse … everything was shut until 2.00 and J had a Dr appointment in the PM, so managed a slow and hot walk and a coffee before catching the bus back.

We walked to the top of the hill to discover the castle was hut until 2.00.

We walked to the top of the hill to discover the castle was shut until 2.00.

But views of the surrounding hills were worth it.

Fav dessert – Tiramasu!

Of the 6 nights we invaded Sarah’s space for 4 nights. Two nights were spent on the campsite … quite an experience for the uninitiated in high tourist area camping….

Cramped and tight pitches and road ways: needing a ‘spotter’ to move Chardonnay around due tight turns and overhanging trees
Most pitches given over to ‘statics’ … not camping at all! Your could argue that – nor do we!
Regulation ridden:
- one way systems with tight turns
- we could not drive Sarah’s car onto the campsite … anywhere for 3 mins to spot for each other to vacate our pitch! Not their problem!
- the campsite pool cost EUR 2 despite the steep nightly fee of EUR 33 … why is it NOT included?
- And the pool shut at 7 p.m., despite temperatures of 30 deg plus

It also boasted of a pizzeria, shop, entertainment etc … Great for families, but SUCH A DIFFERENCE to our lovely wild camps of Scandinavia.

We have to be balanced … the plusses for the site (admittedly few!):

Secure and safe parking for Chardonnay when we left her for a total of 4 nights
Close to the beach for a FREE swim
Close to the train EUR 9 or bus EUR3 for the both of us.
Dredging the positives … electric was included

J has been to Nice number of times / K’s 4th visit. It feels like a second home. We both ran varying distances and speeds along the Bay of the Angels and swam in the Med. Wandered the old town and ate far too well. A wonderful place to be (if a bit hot this time). We gave up on trying to be be too active due the temperatures of 30+. And actually after all our running around, it was really lovely to just be …. in Nice … and with Jade and Sarah.

110 – Friday: Nice Adieu and into Italy

Leaving Sarah and Jade with threats to return end January, we checked out of the cess pit of humanity (campsite) and drove along the coast to Italy. We still had Sally the Sat Nav set to non-toll roads, so she crawled us through Monaco (Country no. 11 this trip) and the coastal road of Italy, which is town touching town. Given the warm temperatures, we were surprised to see so many greenhouses built into the terraced hillsides … we read later that this area is a main supplier of cut flowers.

Italian driving is renowned and not in a good way … but peak season and add in tourists and pedestrians and you have mayhem. After about an hour of numerous near misses (well, that it is what it felt like) and not many miles covered, we re-programmed Sally to include motorways.

Due to traffic issues …. motorways slowing due to weight of traffic, we headed up the hills to a Parking in Cassella, but there were no other motorhomes there so we ploughed on along hilly and bendy roads to Torrigino (!) and a busier Parking … one motorhome had a flower arrangement on their table!

111 – Saturday: Torrigiana and kindness and Into Tuscany and major heat!

We headed for a wander into the town. Kindness Number 1: A chap called after us and J was able to put his sentence ‘no parla Italiano’ into good use … but they chap managed to explain that if we headed up a different street … we would see stone typical of the area. We duely climbed up the hill (getting hot by now) and made it to the castle on the hill … did i mention, it was on a hill and hot? The castle was shut!

The castle on a hill

Another one shut!

Back down to the town, we needed a few green beans for the slow cooker soya casserole … Kindness No. 2: the green grocer saw how few I had in a bag and basically told me to flit … he ws not going to put a few cents through the till!

We meandered down the hills, through hair pin bends and small towns to the coastal motorway and then into a Parking in Pistoia. Apparently they made pistols here. the clue is in the name. It still has metal works, but the main industry is train engines and carriages manufacture … we saw some on the drive in. Apparently also, it has a lovely town square which we had had the intention of walking to …. high humidity and 38C put paid to that. So this afternoon we did …. nothing. Trying not to move and to keep hydrated.

Amazing how easily things can be mis-understood! Text conversation with Maddy! I was complaining about the heat!

Amelia … a very Happy Birthday … so looking forward to seeing everyone tomorrow X

Days 98 – 103: Paddling, Tattoos, Tyres and Maddy Munchkin

Posted on July 31, 2015 by Clunegapyears

98 – Sunday: Mega exercise

K and J did a sluggish run. Zozo and Louis, who had shown us the route two days ago, both declined to accompany us. Funny that!

Niecey then showed K and Louis the way with the new Pilates DVD. Most excellent backwards roll Niecey!

Exhausted! And canoeing to come!

The Aged P’s departed with a few unwanted Nordic layers … less then they brought out to us … so we can argue that our piles in their attic are less …. not sure they would agree we have made much of a dent though!

After lunch down to the river near Aubeterre for canoeing. Louis was solo, but after assuring James that Niecey would NOT capsize him … K with Zoe and J with Niecey. Just at the point of departure Clare and co started bigging up the ‘OBSTACLE’. Something to do with a disruption of the river flow! We were taken up river with the canoes and left to wend our way gently down stream, enjoying the peaceful sounds and sights of nature … NOT. We had attempted boardings, attempted oar stealing, zig zags from one bank to the other (K and Z), ramming and turning each other around. Louis’ new rubber sandal went overboard in the attempt to draw him off. The obstacle was a weir … with a chute and then a drop for canoes. None of us managed to topple out, despite being told to hang on … quite what to we are not sure! Zozo decided to ride the canoe like Boudica until she toppled in. K then joined her for a river walk but could not re-enter the canoe until it was fairly shallow. The picnicking family only offered her water (bah!) when she asked for ‘un petite verre”! Zozo, fed up by now with standing in the canoe became the masthead, but at the back and sabotaged any directional work K was doing. Exhausting! And memorable!

James and Niecey … she kept her promise not to capsize him.

Louis with the technique!

Zoe as masthead

K now really exhausted and abandonning Zozo!

99 – Monday: Chalais market, Tattoo and Tyres

A wander around Chalais market and the obligatory cafe – grand creme. It’s all Niecey’s fault … she suggested it! K ended up with a tattoo on her arm …. similar to henna so it will fade. Unlike Maddy’s new tattoo, a Taurus branding on her thigh done in Lanzarote last week.

Am I really doing this? Bright idea Bakers!

Answers on a postcard as to what it says!

Also managed to fill up the 2 x 5l emptied water bottles with Merlot at EUR2.40/litre.

A huge lunch ‘formula’ in Bonne and then K and J were dropped off at Chalais Tyres, where we had left Chardonnay in the morning, to await delivery and fitting of two new front tyres. We had just got the damp laundry out to hand off the bike rack and J was just about to sleep off his boozy lunch, when the tyres arrived and were fitted.

Zero fuel so we headed to the Intermarche, sorry but our delivery did not arrive …. nearest was almost back at C2’s house, which we made on vapour. Finally we set off in the vague direction of Bordeaux. Stayed the night on a Bordeaux Grand Cru vineyard … the only motorhome there so very peaceful.

C2: we forgot to write in your visitor’s book. Our official entry …

Amazing free pitch with great company, free electric, pool and washing machine to be abused. Extra services include hair dying and motorhome washing.

Day 100!!! Tuesday: Maddy Arrived

We collected Maddy from Bordeaux airport via the biggest Carrefour we have ever seen. The whole retail area was infinitely bigger than Cribbs Causeway in Bristol! There was even a store devoted just to Table Football.

Poor Munchkin had come back from burning the candle both ends with what she described as ‘Fresher’s Flu’. Dosed up, she pretty much slept, so we put some miles arriving at a campsite in Crayssac (Cahors area). Yes we could BBQ and with coals and they had a pool.

K revealed her ‘tattoo’ and Munch was not taken in for a moment that it was real …. mostly amused that K would be stuck with it for about 2 weeks!

A quick dip and then supper. The band started warming up and were pretty good … a tribute to a French singer that we’d not heard of and nothing like typical Eurovision French music. We wandered down to listen with our chairs and a plastic jug of decanted Merlot … classy!

Cannot believe that we have been travelling 100 days. It has been the most amazing experience. Loving it.

101 – Wednesday: Cahors and Saint Enemite, Gorges du Tarn

Hilly and humid runs for K and J. It started to rain as we stuck camp, but we just got M’s tent down in time. We had planned to stop in Cahors for a coffee but the rain was still teeming down. And cars were all teaming into Cahors; probably everyone heading in as a wet day destination. So we kept going. Given the weather and Maddy’s cold we turned it into a driving day.

Stopped in the Gorges du Tarn. Scenery remincient of some of the Scandinavian drives … steep sides and J did not look down much as he was driving.

A tight turn into our campsite …. alongside the river. BBQ on the Cadac Safari gas grill.

102 – Thursday: River Walk to Saint Enimite and Saint-Gilles

Again, Maddy slept whilst K and J ran. After striking camp, we left Chardonnay on the pitch and crossed the bridge to the pretty path that led to the village of Saint Enimie for a coffee.

Typical chimney

Maddy and I used to make such twig houses when she was little

We had planned to stop for two nights within 1 hour of Marseille airport, but the traffic around Arles had other plans. Gendarmes in force, bouchons as far as you could see in all directions and cars abandonned in favour of walking home. We headed off a round about down the only road that was clear – and onto a Peage. Our first since the start of our trip, but we got off the motorway quick incurring a classe 2 toll of only EUR1.70 and headed south.

J googled a campsite in Saint-Gilles on his phone, but actually we could NOT have missed the huge banner across the road. To get a pitch that would take the >8m of Chardonnay and allow us to open the door, we ended up on a pitch with electricity … such expense! But we have a super large pitch and put the awing out!

Gas BBQ again and K got stuck into Apperol with sparking wine … thanks to Steph at Cotham for telling me about it …. absolutely spot on for a hot evening.

Breakfast … actually wearing some of it!

Is this what I ordered?

That Englishman abroad again!

Pilgrims old church

How Maddy occupied herself whilst we wandered the cemetry … Ugh, it’s disrespectful!

103 – Friday: Lazy Lunch and swim

No exercise today … both feeling indolent. A leisurely getting started … but then a hive of industry. K scrubbed and pounded, whilst James wrung and squeezed! Whilst all this laundry was being washed and hung out … Maddy slept!

We wandered into Saint-Gilles: it is on the pilgrim route from Italy to Compostella, so an old church and we wandered the ancient cemetery. Some of the old gravestones had signs stating that they were to be reclaimed … lack of use or rent?! One wonders what happens to the bones of the outgoing incumbent as the new arrives!

Ate far too much at a restaurant along the canal, where we fortunately had a breeze. Staggered back to the campsite … this is where a wheel barrow would have come in handy for our distended stomachs. K and M to bronze and cool off by the pool and J to nanny nap in the van, until he also came for a cooling dip.

Our PA in England had emailed all sorts of admin jobs, so we dealt with these and relaxed … hoping the heat will abate later. We have an early start … will leave at 7.00 tomorrow to drop Munchkin at Marseille airport.

Our pitch

Days 91-97: With K’s Family and a bit of J’s

Posted on July 26, 2015 by Clunegapyears

91 – Sunday: Quirky Chateau

We rose early – dawn had cracked – and the fearsome two went off to exercise – J to run – and K to run – K did 20 minutes for the first time! Cooling down in the shade of our awning – and Monsieur le Chateau appeared to ask if we were ready for le visite – in 15 minutes! Still gasping for air – we dressed (how to dress for a Chateau visit?) – the ultra casual look – watch Victoria Beckham next week….. Cafe first in the Chateau kitchen with mega small talk in French, which left James doing lots of nodding confidently – in fluent French nods. 3 Hours later, he had learned no more of the language – but some about life in the area in the 15th Century… K’s nodding was more impressive as it was accompanied by the spoken tongue. The lady of the Chateau had worked as the curator for 100 years: researched the residents and their relations, the costumes and food etc of Medieval times. When the castle was due to be sold, her life work was to be dismantled, so she and her husband ended up buying it.

inner courtyard with mannequins to depict Medieval life.

Chateau with moat

The van was readied for takeoff – and it was pointed towards – a village for facilities and a nap for the elderly gent ! Then SatNav was programmed for a France Passion near le Puy de Dome – volcanoes and amazing countryside (any other kind in France?)….. the Passion – a lovely farm where K stocked up on the local produce – Ferme Guy.

More about the volcanoes on the Monday blog…..

92 – Monday and Monts, volcanoes – and a cool train…

AM after some strange animal shriekings – could be some pigs still celebrating the end of the 30-year war – or asking not to be slaughtered ? To the ritual exercising – between Coheix and Mazaye (impressed by my local knowledge? I read road signs… I still cannot find the towns called “Sortie” and “Rappel” on the map of France – but I also failed with “Ausfart” in Germany – not an Aussie wind? J’s running was less Coheixive – maybe a small muscle twinge ? We motored to le Puy de Domes – parked in the heat and boarded a dinky train up to 1500 metres – sheer drops on one side – J went looking for the emergency braking system….. A collection of dome shaped volcanoes which are hugely impressive; some have a crater and some water. Paraglider trips for 80 Euro – we passed on that one – back on the train down the mountain and lunch in the van – amazing what K can do with sardines…..

EUR80! But not for us.

Le Puy de Dome train

The volcano craters

The temple ruin at the top

Another ruin at top!

To the road again (9000 miles in 3 months thus far) – via more motorhome facilities – we get so excited at emptying toilets and filling with water – and LPG – you all need to experience the backdraft of the LPG nozzle when it’s released – a real Ausfart ! To Engletons to overnight outside a pottery facility – free of course.

93 – Tuesday: Hot @ Hautfort

We were parked up in the shade and had NO excuse not to do cleaning inside Chardonnay. We keep saying that it looks so lovely when we do a clean that we should do it more often, but it is amazing how many other things get in the way!

We drove to Hautfort. Used the aire facilities again, which were free 🙂 K spoke to another motorhomer who was parked up on a large patch of crispy grass … yes this land belongs to the mairie and you can stay here overnight. We lunched and had every intention of walking up to the Chateau … K even read the guide book about how the previous owners had fallen in love with the dilapidated ruin and restored it …. twice, due to a fire. However, it got hotter and hotter and we would have expired on walking up the hill. All we could think of was how lovely our friend’s pool near Besancon had been when we were really hot. Wifi switched on, google used and a quick phone call … campsite at Brantome with pool and no need to book. 45 mins later we handed over the £15 for our pitch and an hour later we were in the pool. Quite an expensive price to pay for a swim, but Oh so worth it.

We BBQ’d sausages purchased from the pig farm Passion on the gas grill whilst watching a muppet add liquid BBQ lighter to an already lit BBQ! The people on the adjacent pitch were obsviousy as startled at the father’s antics as we were. He proceeded to try to cook immediately (coals not yet hot), which took such a long time that the three patient daughters filled up on bread. You get to see all sorts camping – often entertaining.

94 – Wednesday: Brantome and on to family

We had a wander around Branttome. Half a thought to have a menu for lunch, but being touristy, the prices were double what we had seen in other towns. Settled for an ice cream instead.

Of course J doesn’t need to visit this salle!

Brantome Abbey

Set off for C2’s holiday house just north of Chalais. K had received detailed instructions from her mother and maps from her sister …. it was fail safe to prevent getting lost. As it happens, we pulled off the main road at the start of the instructions only to have a mad English car flashing us like mad from behind …. K’s Aged P’s who had come from the other direction were arriving at the same time. They over took us and we followed them in to c2’s house … un convoi exceptionel!

Swim in the pool and BBQ … just lovely to be with the Aged P’s, Clare, Chris, Niecey, Louis and Zozo and the two hounds. Proper family time.

House surrounded by sun flowers

We brought our own accommodation

95 – Thursday: Chalais and Aubeterre River

K and J drove into Chalais, the main functional town, as Chris called it. Stocked up un petit cafe, bought the last of the wine shop’s EUR2 / litre merlot, which was due to be filled up into 5 litre water containers bought and emptied specifically for this purpose … will have to go back Monday. And ordered two new tyres for Chardonnay … we are assured that they will be delivered to the tyre place on Monday and we will receive a phone call to take Chardonnay down. Just means that we impose on the C2 hospitality a night longer, as had planned to head off to Bordeaux on Sunday.

Back to Perichat for lunch and then we drove down to the river by Aubeterre. The town council kindly create a dam across the river using a whopping inflatable sausage creating a large and deep swimming area, install diving platforms and a life guard. We sunbathed, relaxed and swam, trying to avoid all the other British. Louis skated to the corner shop for ice creams.

On the way back we climbed up the Moulin … Clare engaged gravel mode on the dirt track.

View from the top.

In the evening we went to a lakeside concert. The local small restaurant and campsite host a series of free concerts …. and sell a LOT of pizza & burgers and beer. This evening’s offering was the Blues night. A Belgian four piece, technically and musically extremely good. Unfortunately for us, they sang in English, so we could understand the lyrics. Memorable lines, such as:

– what is that I see between your shoulder blades …. virginia creeper

– my wonderful wheelchair

– my father had a dog, who sat salivating outside the butcher’s

– i want to be press-ent-able at my fun-er-al

We won’t be buying the CD!

Niecey, Louis and Zozo

Ready and waiting for the performance to start … hats to the ready!

The Band!

96 – Friday: Riberac Market and J’s Family

We ventured en masse to Riberac for our morning coffee and to visit the stunning market. French markets are usually good value for fresh produce and clothes / gift, but this one was par excellence. Bought all sorts of bits, from 3x magnification readers to a child’s handbag and foie gras!

Not for sale

Back to Pericat for lunch then we set off to meet J’s son and family at Lac de la Cadie. we built an almost impregnable one for the captured crayfish … not enough to take home for the BBQ.

Ready for the off in Chardonnay

97 – Saturday: Aubeterre, history and jobs!

We had our morning coffee in Aubeterre and then a wander around the town. Built on a cliff with a sub-terranean church (for another time) and lots of narrow streets. As we walked through an old codger, stopped K and J and gave a mini history into his street. This was the oldest building with a massive cellar that stretched across the street to the cliff and had a window looking out onto the chateau. This was the site of the old wooden bridge which was the main entrance to the medieval town. This was the wall that was adjacent to the route to the old bridge and went a further 7 metres below. This was the building that was having some renovation work and when they peeled back the plaster they discovered the remnants of windows and a big arch door … it had been a church … you could see the outlines of windows and door. He told the story that an old neighbour living there was complaining that her dog kept digging up the garden. After a while said hound brought her a petal cadeau … a human bone … the garden had been the cemetery!

Free ice lolly poses …

Niecey

Grumps

Thanks Zozo…

Aubeterre

Spot the odd one out …

Both smiling at the same time … a minor miracle

Back to Perichat via the Super U supermarket for K, J and Aged P’s. The Aged’s off tomorrow and needing travel fodder / K&J cooking for all tonight.

Niecey, Louis and Zozo: you really should not take selfies on my iPad – i will find them!

Jobs afternoon … a full family affair!

– Gran and Zozo on the skunk like strips attacking K’s hair. Gran, you really should not wear hair white trousers around hair dye!

– James, Chris, Niecey and Louis on cleaning Chardonnay. Poor Chard was sooooooo filthy (she’d not been abluted since Copenhagen and done thousands of miles since). Chris jet wash king. Niecey and Louis ATTACKING the blood bath of dead insects on the bonnet and then up the extendable ladder to clean the roof.