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About Clunegapyears

Travelling around Europe with James in our motorhome. And now solo, with friends

Day 37: Meeting Archie

Monday

Shopping to replenish water, milk etc and even better …. gin!  Slight contretemps with Sally the sat nav who tried to take us the wrong way.  Ended up putting on the mifi and using the iPad with maps to navigate.  Would have used a map, honest, (not de-skilling) but the Europe map we have has very poor detail of Finland and the guide book’s maps are also basic and only show main towns etc of interest..

Thus we used googleland to head south – to see Archie –  Archie Pelago ! He has 25,000 islands off the coast of Turku.   We navigated Pargas, Nagu and Korpo and we will stay tonight in a supermarket car park on a marina on Nagu. The supermarkets name – you guessed it! “K Market”!  We crossed bridges and used small ferries – those who know – think Tarbert to Killimer size.  We cycled for 21 ‘kinometres, sorry kilometres, and almost got lost…..  Now for pre-prandials and supper….

We have seen some unusual road signs ? but “Sexinapantie” ? We offer no comment…

Ferry!

Ferry!

Coffee, No James drinking coffee whilst waiting for said ferry.

Coffee, No James drinking coffee whilst waiting for said ferry.

Typical view from Chard as we island hop.

Typical view from Chard as we island hop.

Camera course ... long leading line on Karpo

Camera course … long leading line on Karpo

From ferry; again typical view.

From ferry; again typical view.

!!!

!!!

Late Stockhom submission.  Mother claims she is not just a PA!

Late Stockhom submission. Mother claims she is not just a PA!

 

Days 33-36: Forests, Rauma and Sleepless in Turku

33: Thursday – Driving Rain / Driving Forests / Wooden Houses in Old Towns

Weather pretty grim so put some miles in going south.  Intended to stop in Oulu, but K driving and J napping,  so K kept driving.  Oulu from the ring road looked like a MASSIVE busy and modern town.  Known for its Air Guitar Championships!  Apparently it would have been good for a bike ride around the waterways and old market place, but the weather was not inviting.

We stopped and looked at coca-cola (Kokkola), basic shopping and asked some embarrassed girls where to find the old town.  All they could do was giggle and point.  On being asked if they learnt English at school (the teacher in me still!), they giggled again and nodded.  A quick wander around the old wooden houses and back on the road.

Stopped overnight at Jacobstadt, by a small marina.  Wandered the town in the morning with some of the best preserved wooden houses in Finland and this almost art deco clock tower.

Jacobstadt

Jacobstadt

34: Friday – Vaasa and a wonderful moment in time

Short drive to Vaasa.  Managed to find a 4 hour free parking right outside one of the museums.   A combined ticket gave us entry to the town museum and an art gallery.

Pohjanmaan Museo:  exhibitions about the changing natural history and life in Vaasa, and art and furniture that had come from two private collections.  Some English info cards in most rooms 🙂

BUT the Kuntsi Museum a short walk away.   This houses changing exhibitions and currently two photographic by Finn Teemu Mäki.  Early we spoke to one of the guides who then spent an hour with us explaining the sets of three photos in the ‘Be your enemy’ exhibition.  In workshops, people explored who they are now, their worst nightmare and their dream.  Without this amazing lady the pix would have been largely lost on us.  The other half of the exhibition was about challenging stereotypes about men and women and how much of society and it’s conventions you choose to take on board.

Check it out here:  http://kuntsi.vaasa.fi/index_eng.html

We were so buoyed up by this experience, we celebrated in the centre of the town with a glass of something red …

Had to celebrate a wonderful afternoon

Had to celebrate a wonderful afternoon

We moved Chard all of 50 metres from our roadside parking to a gravel parking on the waterfront for the night.

35: Saturday – Rauma and Turku

PANIC!  Awoke in the morning to find the chemical loo had somehow filled itself …. a quick pack up and on the road to find a service station …. fortunately we found one really close.  We emptied and filled with fresh water and then parked up and went back to bed!!!

Once we were up and going, we stopped in Rauma.  This is the KING of old wooden houses – all 700 of them.  Very pretty, but must be horrendous in high season.  A combined museum ticket got us through the Town Hall town museum with some exhibits of lace, for which the town is famous, and quickly through the merchant’s house and the seaman’s house.

Rauma

Rauma

Quirky humour

Quirky

Captions please!

Captions please!

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Toast to Turku

Drove onto Turku, again a waterside pitch alongside the river and the restaurant and cruise trip boats.

Late afternoon, so a quick walk along the river and into the town.  Bustling, sun shining and really attractive.

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Docked with all the diner cruise and bar boats

Docked with all the diner cruise and bar boats

Our overnight pitch was lovely by the river Aura and promised well for a peaceful evening once the strollers had departed for their tea and muFinns…  Now we had reckoned without the riverine Saturday night young partygoers? And were they goers? On the restaurant ship right opposite our non-party van, they started early – and finished at 5>00 am !  Clunegapyears had a major gap in the sleeping department !

Sunday:  Turku – liked and explored, without yawns

However, we rose late and headed out of Turku to replenish the ablutions and WC functions? Is there a law in Finland about assisting the forest life with human biogas _  Second time we have broken it…

Afternoon saw us walking around the open air handicrafts museum… it is actually a complete village of original 1700-1900 cottages each housed the trades that were necessary for life – from carpentry through printing to rug making. Our journey was greatly assisted by local lady guides who knew even the individual families (2 families next door to each other had 6 daughters ) 12 young ladies !  Later, we visited the Contemporary Art Museum. This leaves me wondering why I threw out my drawings and squiggles from 3 years old!  But there was a fascinating section downstairs about the original medieval town recently excavated and explained – in Finnish, Swedish and English.

Now we have moved downriver for our nights pitch to avoid Turku Temple Bar? and instead we currently have a coach load of KGB tourists examining our van! We might have to get a bit Bolshevik with them…..

Right next to Stockholm to Finland ferry port …. watched (and heard) 50+ twin trailered lorries leave… checked the timetable … safe till 0700 hrs, then the dinosaur noises start again!

Life saving equipment along the river - would we have saved the revellers?

Life saving equipment along the river – would we have saved the revellers?

Wooden village in Turku that escaped the fire.Apparently the roof ladders are for fire prevention!

Wooden village in Turku that escaped the fire.  Apparently the roof ladders are for fire prevention!

The wooden village still has some people living here.  Unusual as all the houses are in their original position.

The wooden village still has some people living here. Unusual as all the houses are in their original position.

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View from Netherlands Consulate of the cathedral

View from Netherlands Consulate of the cathedral – nothing Double Dutch about J though!

 

 

Days 31-32: Finland!

Tuesday:  And into Finland

After the Max burger, googled that they are a Swedish chain and beat Burger King and McD in taste tests … but no presence in Finland 🙂   J will have to wait till Norway.

Weather pretty wet, so decided on a drive … stopping in Pitea to fill up with LPG as there is NONE in Finland.  Thought we would stop overnight just over the border, but the town looked less than salubrious, so we headed onto Kemi a few miles on into Finland.  The sea mists blew in and off our pitch… the heating was on!

Wednesday:  Moving South

Initial thoughts on Finland which is new to both of us …

  • Lack of architectural planning – very utilitarian, square shapes, with lots of blocks of flats around 6 stories high.
  • Poorer than Denmark and Sweden
  • People wear black or black, and sometimes black.  And a lot of the men have crew cuts.
  • English seems less widely spoken, or at least well.  I thought may be Russian was compulsory, but apparently Swedish is mandatory for the last 3 years of primary, due the large Swedish speaking contingent.

However, as we have come south, we have seen more attractive buildings … we stopped for a walk around Kokkola old town and found a Alko shop …. yes the state run booze shops really are called this!  We ‘invested’ in a bottle of gin … ‘Finsbury’s Best London’ and a bottle of Schweppes …. joy!

Drove to Jakobstad (Swedish name) / Pietarsaari (Finish) and parked up along side the Old Marina … Swedish speaking area as we are back to red painted wooden summer houses.  Opened the gin and toasted the safe delivery of Jade to Sarah and Gareth – wonderful news.

Days 30 – 31 Max and Mountain

Monday Mountain

Never mind the mountain, let’s talk about Max ! The best thing in Sweden ! Can you detect that there has been a change of editor – anyway, Max is a hamburger chain, with a mountain of a triple cheese burger – and an enormous slab of prime Swedish beef ! But what about the mountain, you all cry – after all this is a travel burger – sorry, blogur. Ok, the hill was 296 metres of beef – sorry, forest and rocks. We commenced our ascent – (technical term for climbing) at 1030 am – got to the “toppen” (admire my Swedish) at about 1130. Again, the views were stunning but not quite as spectacular as the previous climb, the downhill was slower but a total trip time of about 2.5 hours. Back on the road again, only to discover Max within the hour ! Additionally, we had free and fast WiFi for two hours – to contact all our avid followers across the planet. Last night we parked overnight (…. guess where?) in a Marina at Borea. Very quiet apart from the heavy rain. We have also noticed that we are now experiencing only 2 or 3 hours of darkness, between 10 pm and about 1am……

This morning, rain and back on the road to meet Max at Lillea……. we will cross into Finland this afternoon, probably….

Top of Skulesberget

Top of Skulesberget

We could just see Chardonnay from the top - our night time pitch

We could just see Chardonnay from the top – our night time pitch

Views from highest hill / mountain in the area - 293 feet up

Views from highest hill / mountain in the area – 293 feet up

Watery pitch at Borea, about 65 degrees latitude

Watery pitch at Borea, about 65 degrees latitude

Maxed out - 2nd burger in 2 days and free wifi :)

Maxed out – 2nd burger in 2 days and free wifi 🙂

Days 26-29 Coasting Along and the High Coast

26. Wednesday: Failed Birka, first Swedish ferry and Mariefred

(wonder there was such a couple – and to have a town named after them!?)

Continuing our tour around Lake Malaren, we attempted to get to Birka, the first ever town in Sweden.

Interesting coffee stop – Jumbo Cafe a 747, turned hotel. James became quite animated in a geeky sort of way!

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Travelled for quite a way up a peninsula and came across a ferry to an island.  An overdue look at our map, showed that Birka is an island off another island and a more careful and belated proper perusal of the guide book informed us  that Birka was reached by boat from Stockholm in summer months!  Quick U Turn at the ferry dock much to the bemusement of the waiting ferry traffic!

Continued to West to Mariefred … and paid just over a fiver for our first Swedish ferry.  We travelled as a car (we did check our category), wish the Oresund Crossing considered us so …

First Swedish ferry, as a car :)

First Swedish ferry, as a car 🙂

At Mariefred we saw the impressive Grisholm Slott.  Apparently also best viewed from the water … in the summer!  However, still attractive with another wooden housed town.  Probably hideous in high season as there were lots of tourist attractions … tourist railway and mini golf.  But you we all know, we are not here in high summer …

Gripsholm Slot: the large tower is the theatre and it was plastered but then bricks painted on to match the rest of the bricks ... same they did not get the colour quite right!

Gripsholm Slott: the large tower is the theatre and it was plastered but then bricks painted on to match the rest of the bricks … same they did not get the colour quite right!

We know what you're doing!!!  And the paint did not come off.

We know what you’re doing!!! And the paint did not come off.

Raining pretty much all day, so we decided to cut our losses and head for the coast.  Parked up at a mini marina at Norrtalje.

Our night time pitch

Our night time pitch

Another lovely evening sunset

Another lovely evening sunset

26. Thursday:  Push North

A power walk into Norrtalje and a wander around the town.  Nothing much open…

Decided to put in a biggish drive.  Stopped off along a forest dirt track (!) and had lunch.

Lunch and unmentionables in the woods!

Lunch and unmentionables in the woods!

Forsmarks deserves a mention.  Like a model village with the Count’s manor house.  English garden and money from ironworks.  Museum not open!

Fourmarks: model village with church.  All built late 1700s

Forsmarks: model village with church. All built late 1700s

Fourmarks Slot: Count's family owned the village and iron works until the 60s

Formarks Slott: Count’s family owned the village and iron works until the 60s

Headed off the E4 (sort of motorway) and spent the night amongst the trees in holiday home land, a place called Trodje and had a BBQ.  Very peaceful.

Did you know that 50% of Swedes have access to a holiday cottage?  20% have ownership.  Apparently it is what many aspire to … a small cottage and the simple life … sort of what we have done, I guess.

 

27 Friday: Still Pushing on North

James did his second run along the dirt track …and we headed off to the High Coast.

A stop on the way at Hudiksvall, which had nothing to recommend it other than the picturesque warehouses along the quay.

Warehouses largely now craft shops

Warehouses largely now craft shops

Saw several SCA paper mills / pulp factories at Sundsvall – reminded me of the good times working for them.

We crossed the 1997 built Hogakustenbron Bridge into the High Coast area: 180 metre high pylons supporting the suspension bridge.

We parked up at a picnic area, again with lovely views over a lake near Nordingra in the middle of the High Coast area.

Shower and prune night .... fortunately J got me out of focus!

Shower and prune night …. fortunately J got me out of focus!  Notice the glasses, or I can’t see the little feckers!

Nordingra pitch, over yet another lake :)

Nordingra pitch, over yet another lake 🙂

28.  Saturday Blue dots walking / clamboring

We planned to spend the day walking but had a fairly late start as sorting the insurance claim form out with my UK based and much put upon PA!  Thanks Mum!!!

Despite the late start, the Tourist Info did not open until 1.00 – duh! – but a fantastic lady in an open air museum not only hunted me out last year’s leaflet on the High Coast but hand wrote directions for a walk.

It was quite a clamber over and under the tree branches and then over the rocks along the coast, but lovely.  Walked back along the road through another holiday hut area.

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Clamber along the coastline

Clamber along the coastline

Having read the leafelt we were given we realised there was quite a lot to do in the High Coast, so we headed into the Skuleskogen National Park.  Spent the night in the car park amongst the pines and had a BBQ followed by a fire log.

BBQ followed by firelog in the national park car park - we weren't the only one.

BBQ followed by firelog in the national park car park – we weren’t the only one.

We have now been travelling for 4 weeks …. it really is 4 weeks since we spent the night on the drive with Ian and Jimmy in Rusty!

29. Sunday Skuleskogan mountain, gorge and coastline

We walked for about 5 hours … a little weary at the end, but it was stunning.  The pix can do the talking.

Gorge aka Krevass.  You look down and then walk (clamber) through here

Gorge aka Krevass. You look down and then walk (clamber) through here

Conqueror!

Conqueror!

Typical rocky terrain and views opening out

Typical rocky terrain and views opening out

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A field of small boulders left from the ice age ... can understand why the Swedes are into folklore as it looked just like a field of small trolls.

A field of small boulders left from the ice age … can understand why the Swedes are into folklore as it looked just like a field of small trolls.

More views

More views

Looking down on the gorge and out to sea

Looking down on the gorge and out to sea

We even found traces of snow and we have a long way still to travel north!

We even found traces of snow and we have a long way still to travel north!

We needed Dave to tell us about the rock ... mostly granite.  Paths really well marked with coloured dots and small cairns.

We needed Dave to tell us about the rock … mostly granite. Paths really well marked with coloured dots and small cairns.

Wrapped up as the winds are chilly

Wrapped up as the winds are chilly

Definitely a land of trolls and fairy tales

Definitely a land of trolls and fairy tales

We had imagined that the forests will be all the dark green of pine trees, but the silver birches and spruce add variety.

We had imagined that the forests will be all the dark green of pine trees, but the silver birches and spruce add variety.

Lichens and mosses ...

Lichens and mosses …

Our route ... hence mentions of clamboring!

Our route … hence mentions of clambering!

Moved Chardonnay to the visitor centre underneath Skuleberget – a) as no phone signal where we were and b) trying not to stay more than one night in one place since the break in.  Heating on as we are feeling a little jaded after all the climbing up and over.

We plan to climb up this mountain tomorrow and then push on North.  We have booked St Petersburg from Helsinki and also I will do a flying visit home to see Munchkin on 4th – 6th June.  🙂