About Clunegapyears

Travelling around Europe with James in our motorhome

Slow Road to Crete Bratislava and Around

Self Guided Bratislava

24/08/22

I AM the Tour Guide Extraordinaire!  Well with the help of Atlas Obscura and Maps.Me populated with bookmarks of what to see.  I dispensed with the umbrella or flag.  And I didn’t have to chase my tour group along or count heads.  There were only 2+2.  The +2 were on leads so had no choice but to follow.

I know it seems lazy to drive the 1.2 km to the bus stop from the campsite.  But we expected to be foot weary at the end of the day.  And that last km is always the killer.  Pay on bus.  CO2 half price.  Muzzled but actually forgot on return and no one blinked an eye.   All of EUR6 one way for an hour journey for the 5 of us.  I later googled what a Bristol to London day return is … £80 off-peak to £176 peak.  Kerstin was staggered.  It would have been crazy to drive.  And it was interesting watching the folk alight … various bus passes.  Some eligible for a discount.  Others no fee.  And we noticed the national genealogy traits of high cheek bones and pale skin.  Not that we are generalising, but we are!

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Muzzle (unnecessary) and wedged in!

When we alighted, we were unimpressed.  Architecture is a thing and it seemed all very Communist.  Blocks.  However, the old town with its shabby chic Austro Hungarian buildings was lovely.  Like a different world.  Worth a day trip, but not a weekend.  Unless you want to scrutinise all the museums in detail?

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First stop was the TV / Radio building.  Once voted one of the ugliest buildings in the world.  Being worked on and effectively sanitised.  Shame, as I liked the rawness of the rust.

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Great abseiling job.

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Largest city fountain and Freedom Square built to remember freedom from Communism … surrounded by (some high rise) buildings from the Communist area.  The fountain is the Linden flower – symbol of the Slavs.  Largest open city space.  Uninspired.

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An Atlas Obscura … Skater girls and a real post box.

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Camil the sewer worker … on a kerb.  Apparently responsible for a few damaged cars.

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The New Highway completely destroyed the old Jewish Quarter and the Fish Market.  I googled the UFO restaurant as a possibility for lunch but stupid money.

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View of the Danube, the UFO and the surrounding tower blocks from the castle.  We didn’t go in … as rebuilt relatively recently and CO2 unwelcome.

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Also from castle.  Check out those high rises … they are EVERYWHERE  And still being built.  Has no one read the erudite papers on high rises and mental health?

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Charmed by the shabby peeling Austro Hungarian architecture of the old town … but even MacD here.

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Town Hall … with …

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… a Bonaparte cannot ball still lodged.  Still amazes me how far east he got.

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Not a cocktail but a fresh fruit lemonade … yum.  We developed a taste for these.  Raspberry, forest fruits, citrus and even lavender.

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We (I) have misplaced (lost) J’s beard trimmer so J went for a head and chin chop.  K and I used our time usefully.  3 for the price of 2!

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The Blue Church.  Modern C19, but I liked.  Grammar school next door by same architect.

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Tour Guide – digital!

 

Nitra Nice But … Trnava Nice No But

25/08/22

Bit of a long drive to the furthest point Nitra and it was far too long a drive for what was there.

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Drove through several KM of what must be the largest central European logistics hub.  Impossible to get a pic of the scale of it.  We saw box pre fab new builds with flat roofs for the workers advertised for sale @ EUR starting 249 … property is NOT cheap here.

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K and J took a look at the small walled church and a few buildings (castle – small!).  I can’t remember what they said about it, so it can’t have been memorable … I didn’t go in.  We all had drinks and cake on a terrace listening the Radio Swiss Jazz … smooth easy listening which is now bookmarked on my radio app.  All agreed this was the best part of this town.

We moved onto Trvana.  I’d found an app.  Did I mentionI was tour guide extraordinaire!  A self guided walking tour.  Much improved once I realised I could play the text rather than read it.  Slightly dry humour in some comments, so good.  Trnava was the first Slovak free town and still is.  The Town Council had the foresight to build the walls wide to allow growing room, so they are still intact.  And interestingly made from brick as the right sort of soil was available locally … must have been a huge production as there are a huge number of bricks in this huge city wall. First and best university in Hungarian Empire.  Until Empress Marie Therese in about1770, had it moved by barge and road (lock stock and barrel – science labs, books etc) to Buda, her capital.  A new Uni was only established in the 1990s.  Now this was a town we could recommend for a weekend away. Very mellow with more shabby chic Austro Hungarian buildings, but sense that it was loved and lived in.

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Kertsin climbed the bell tower and suffered the bells ringing … J and I repaired for ice cream and a lemonade (for some of us!)

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Castel Cerveny and Modra

26/08.22

The Red Castle (although nothing red about it!) is a major tourist attraction (isn’t everywhere in the advertising?). K went in on a timed ticket … had to join a 75 min Slovak tour but was given an English paper with limited info.  She had to pay and extra Euro for this. And we’ve been aware that non Slovak speaking tours are few and far between and you pay extra.  In fact, not many non Slovak folk touring / exploring at all.

Whilst K toured, J and I walked and I climbed the mini tower for a view of the courtyard.  The Fuggers and Palfri family owners used the underground caverns as stores for their traded goods and copper from their mines … protected largely from the Ottomans by the castle fortifications.

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Lavender lemonade this time .. and cake!

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Castle Cerveny courtyard

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O with an unfeasible large stick.  Calf / shin basher.  

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Quite a complex.

And so onto Modra. Billed in the guide book as the home to the best red and white wines.  Hoped it was better than the supermarket Modra red I bought the other day that I was reluctant to even cook with!  We stopped outside Modra at a wine sign … had a tasting.  Nice whites @ EUR4/bottle.  Apparently the reds are rubbish … well that explains the supermarket trash.  Came away with 4 bottles for the 3 of us.  Chap also made and sold patisseries.  So K bought 4 cakes … for the one of her!

I looked at the Majolica Pottery.  Very predictable, so no purchase.  Would have liked to take pic of the 3 signs on the wall … each with a clock … London, Paris, Modra.  The fourth sign had had its clock removed  … Russia.  Does the Ukraine invasion mean Russia has lost it’s time?

Early supper in Modra was a mistake.  Modern gastro joint with over inflated prices … obviously the place to be seen!   Note to self … get the chap at the Tourist Office to write down his restaurant recommendations, so you can find it later!

Slow Road to Crete but Fast to Slovakia

 

Being Legal … Barely

 

19/08/22

 

We have had Jez in Crete with us since February.  Whilst this is (probably) illegal as we have Greek residency, and Greek law presumes that if you are avoiding road tax if you drive an overseas vehicle, this was a risk we were prepared to take.  Police are much less likely to check the credentials of  motorhome drivers than a car.  However, risks we were not prepared to take are:

a) Our insurance specifies a limit of 6 months in Europe.  And give our ex pat status I could only find one insurers for our UK registered van.

b) EU law used to be 6 months visit per country before you had to register/import the vehicle.  Since Brexit it is 6 months for the EU.  Grr!

 

We drove back arriving on 20th July and we have mostly stayed in Jez on woodlands Farm near the Aged P’s in Chichester.  I flew back on 28th July to fetch the car and camping kit, driving back with Gillian … Girls Road Trip.  J had 2 nights in Dublin to see family.  A quick 4 nights in the east country to see friend and collect a few items from the Devon house shed. 

 

But today we left Jez with Abacus Motorhomes in Andover.  They are an Adria dealer, service centre and motorhome sales and hire. Our insurers specify Gold standard, but given the £ooo’s of stock held here, they have accepted Abacus as our storers.  It works OK as they can pull Jez in for work whenever parts are in / they have time.  And at £65 per month, it is a lot more than we paid in Greece, but cheaper than most Gold storage.

 

We have largely emptied Jez, so our storage box at the Aged’s is full.  And the Greek car is also full.  Full of essentials we need to take back to Crete, a few want to take and we still managed to leave enough room for Kertstin, who will be joining us.  With roof box moved to the side and 3 x camping chairs wrapped in a tarp, we managed to fit most essentials in!

 

We had a last meal with the Aged P’s and Maddy & Jordan.

 

 

And we’re off

 

20/08/22

 

Ferry as used it coming across with the Greek car  – a lot cheaper than the Tunnel if you want a Flexi ticket.  With the ferry they will accommodate you on the next available 48hrs either side of your booking.  But never again.  Seemed to be at Dover for hours and then hours on the ferry.

 

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Don’t know why we had to have a yellow Pet sticker, it didn’t seem to make much difference as to where we were loaded! 

 

We arrived late in Belgium and erected the small new to us tent in the dusk.  Just as well I’m expert at erections!!!!  Grew up camping!  Supper was excellent at the Camping / leisure centre bar / resto.  Until we came to pay … no cards.  Cash only.  Opps, I had about EUR3 in coins only.  2km to the nearest ATM.  I was about to walk it … tired and the the post supper feeling of well being deserting me, when J said, I may have some Euros left from my trip to Dublin.  Yay … I went back and paid up, telling the bar man that my husband was hiding money from me!

 

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This looked so comfy and was! 


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Our diddy tent is not so diddy.


Put to Work!

 

21/08/22

 

We managed a cup of tea on arrival at Kerstin’s and a dog walk, before she dragged me out to work!  Why is it that she always seems to have a property project on the go?  We left Amsterdam early one summer to spend 2 weeks stripping wall paper and washing down when a tenant had left one house in an unbelievable condition.  This time, Kerstin has an inherited elderly relative’s apartment to clear.  She needs all the years of accumulated stuff sorted and boxed so the decorators can come in, before she can let it to students.  A wonderful old building with great features but stuffed to the gunwales.  She did treat us to supper though.

 

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And we’re off

 

22/08/22

 

Before leaving, we headed into a TUV, despite reducing the Greek car registration document to scant MBs, it would not upload to get the Unwelt Plakette.  So we headed off to a TUV (MOT test centre).  Nowadays it is rare to get good service, let alone something for free.  Got both here!  Happy.  The the pet store for dog food (Oscar had helped himself when we weren’t looking and what should have lasted for several days, was no more!) and a water bowl … left ours somewhere in Belgium … 1st casualty! 

 

We managed to cram Kerstin, her bedding, a rucksack AND her numerous food supplies … she’s a grazer … into the car, and even dropped off some plums at her work!.  Then decided to just keep going to Slovakia and the campsite north of Bratislava.  A long drive and only one misdemeanour form Oscar.  He found Kerstin’s special sausage, gifted by a neighbour,  and ate the end!  We left Germany in temperatures of 22C and it slowly dropped to 14C and started to rain.  We put the tents up in the dusk / dark … and drizzle.  It was late by the time we ate!  And it rained all night!  

 

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CO2 are like the princess and the pea  hardly any headroom.  And some of Kerstins food supplies!


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Camping Karpaty.  Home for 5 nights.


Bratislava:  Castle and Scrap

 

23/08/22

 

Easy morning.  K and I walked around the small lake.  Commenting on how lush and green it is … must be all this rain!  First muddy puddle I’ve seen since April!  No supplies sourced yet, so much was dog-eared (not dog aka Oscar this time) cup-a-soups with the promise of an afternoon snack!

 

Lots of stops planned, not all made.  And not by all of us, all the time.  First stop was Devin Castle.  Nicely told … No dogs.  J elected to snooze in the car with them.  It is a huge ruin on the Austrian border, overlooking the boats on the Danube.  Numerous owners until Bonaparte blew it up.

 

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 The Danube.


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Charred Roman loaf  might have gone down well with our meagre cup-a-soup!


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Views across to Austria.


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The most interesting part was the well. Yes, it did look deep, but you had no idea just how deep.  Until a bucket and tap were deployed.  You filled one with the other and tipped it into the well.  Waited.  And waited.  Waited some more until, finally … splash.  The acoustics amplified the sound of the splash too. The water separated into millions of droplets as it descended.   It was addictive, we and others had several go’s.


Long awaited … drinks and hotdogs (ice cream for me as I’m on me holidays!) at the base of the castle.  We tried to get close to the missile base but the road was blocked and it was too late and we didn’t have the energy for a 9km hike.  

 

So we moved onto Snot Park.  No, I misread this … it is Srot Park.  Kerstin and I had been discussing if we were born again (not the the Christian born again type!), what skill or talent we would like.  She would be someone who could construct long lasting beautiful and functional buildings.  I said I’d like to have vision.  To be able to create beautiful things that elicit an emotional reaction.  This park is by someone who has Vision.  He started it in 2019.  Animals and cartoon / fantasy characters made for bits of steel.  Loved it.  No one on the gate, just an honesty box.  And sadly one laminated photo of an owl, some b’stard had pinched.

 

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A slight detour on the way back home took in the VW factory car cable car.  No pix as I was driving and it was not in operation  Supper up the hill at the restaurant overlooking a small lake.  Traditional roasted lamb with small noodles and sauerkraut … actually delicious.  And the wine weren’t bad either!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

Another Canine Odyssey

Woodlands Farm and Stationary

21/07-28/07/22

Maddy didn’t come down to see us as her boyfriend had caught Covid.  So far, touch wood quickly, we’ve not had it and did not want to risk ourselves or passing it to parents and other family who are immune suppressed.  Sad not to see her, but better safe than sorry.

On Saturday, Stella’s new owners drove down to collect her.  They kindly took us out to lunch to say thank you.  What blew us away was on top of that, they arrived with 3 large boxes.  1. Filled with toys, cool mats and treats for CO2.  2.  Filled with yummies from Waitrose … things we may not get easily in Crete.  3.  Filled with booze!  Incredibly generous.  Just as well they did come for her as J was getting attached … on being asked he had said he would keep her.  So much for our no more dogs rule!  Feck, incidentally, was collected as we arrived in the UK on the M25 … not the live carriageway, of course, but at the services.

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Watching for deer.

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Card from Stella’s owners.

J got his 4th booster.  We ate with the Aged Ps.  BBQ at my sister’s.  And David and Karen (also part of our Turkey lockdown family) came over and stayed 3 nights:  walked, ate at a nice restaurant in Chichester and generally drank too much.  David is the man who ‘has a glue for that’ so he helped with a few maintenance jobs too :).

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Another K9 Odyssey

28/-7-04/08/22

We will be leaving Jez in the UK, but will need to get back to Crete by road as we have CO2 to take with us.  So I flew to Chania to fetch the Greek car and the camping kit.  Thank you to the train strikes  (NOT), J had to drive me even though there’s a perfectly good direct 1 hour train service from Chichester to Gatwick.  I had 4 nights in our Crete house to clean and shut it up for being empty.  Friends had used the house and left just before I arrived and there was just a bit of laundry to finish off. I got to see Gillian, Karl and June and Nicky and Rob.  I’d thought I would have had an empty suitcase coming over.  Paid for when I planned to fly back on my own after returning the van solo to the UK in Sept.  No refund on cases … so I’d offered to bring back anything for friends.  I did some ordering and shopping for us too.  So much so that my case was overweight with HP sauce, stain spray, Worcester sauce etc!  Had to borrow a small cabin bag from the Aged P’s!!!

Cretan Animal Protection had two smallish dogs for me to bring over.  Both absolute sweeties.

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Johnny who had cruised from house to house for left overs.  Had been fostered by a family who all cried when he was collected.  

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Little Alma.  Had been rescued from a couple who were alcohol and drug addicts.  They used to batter her.  When she was removed from their ‘care’ she had to spend weeks in vet hospital.  So nervous that cowered initially, but got used to us and is a real poppet.  Loves cuddles.  She’s available for adoption if anyone reading this is interested.

Gillian had been thinking about coming back to the UK to see her mother and sisters in and around Portsmouth and friends. She suggested joining me on the road trip.  Excellent … spent a lunch with her booking her onto the crossings.

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First ferry.  First Campari.  Daytime crossing from Chania to Pireaus.

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First ferry for dogs.

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Overnight at an AirBnB.  A wander with wine and beer, followed by a few red wines on our balcony.  Bit later to bed than panned!!!

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Coffee stop required after leaving our basic accommodation.

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Ferry No.2  No cabins to be had.  We bought airplane seats at the port.  I paid EUR20, Gillian EUR9!!!  Why????  She’s a certain age! LOL

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Ferry No.2.  Campari No. 2.

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Picnic lunch.  Dogs had been refusing their dog food (kibble supplied by Cretan Animal Protection) so I mixed out left over salmon and sardines with it … which they sucked off and left the biscuits.

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Pre supper drinks!

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Dogs starting to vomit bile and slime as soooo hungry.  They woofed up bread, ham and cheese!

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They also woofed up half a burger each!  The other half was given to Johnny’s new owners in case he refused to eat what they had bought.

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DFDS Calais.  Got here in under 22 hours from Ancona.  Both drove and stopped a couple of times for a nap.  

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White cliffs of Dover.  Always think first time visitors must be disappointed.  No Campari, but Gillian did force down a glass of white!

 

 

07/22: The Mounties Always Get Their Man

The Mounties Always Get Their Man

As the Canadian Mounted Police slogan goes.  Well the Pindos Mountains have certainly caught us.

08/07/22:  Aoos Lake

The Pindos Mountains are new to us.  We avoided the are when not too far away before as we are snow adverse … well Jez is.  Despite his 3 litre engine he has rubbish traction.  We headed up off into the mountains to one of the few official motorhome parking spots.  No services, but over looking Aoos Lake (reservoir). There were several water points on the ascent; the 3rd was a spring water standpipe with a constantly running tap.  We needed to do laundry, so having checked with the local potato farmers who were working, that it was OK to take water, the twin tub came out.

Only a further 6km to our parking, which was just as well.  Our fuel gauge was reading nearly a quarter full, but with the climbs, now declaring low fuel and no range!  On arrival, I considered getting the clothes horse out, but the heavens opened!  So all the laundry was hung on knicker chandeliers and hangers to dry inside the van.

We have both been a little incapacitated (more tired than usual) with the heat and some high humidity …. But up here the temperatures plummeted.  So cool that, after showering, we dug out long trousers and layers … we’d not anticipated wearing these until the U.K.!  It is super green and lush here after the scorched grass of lower slopes.  We were joined by a CH camper and a D big yellow off roader …. But super quiet …. To cold to sit outside and enjoy the peace though!

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Think this is one of the most beautiful / unusual places ever to get the two tub out.  One of those, where the Pix don’t do it justice.

 

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Undulating potato fields.

 

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One of the few Greek official motorhome parkings.

 

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The guide books states the weather is changeable up here … yep, we had hailstones! 

 

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Walk around part of the reservoir.

09/07/22:   Zagori Area in the Pindos Mountains

A lazy start.  Obviously too late up as Stella had peed, not once, but twice, in the van! J got up first so got to clean the floor!  Lucky him.

We refilled our tanks at the potato field spring water.  Free wheeled down most of the mountain, watching the fuel range exceed 300 miles lol!  Filled with under €2 diesel.  Filled with under 1 LPG at another garage … both much cheaper than other garages we passed. Happy us.   Popped into a large supermarket for 2 days worth of provisions, but they didn’t sell ice!  Why ever not?

We headed to a viewpoint over Vikos gorge, but after a wrong turn, a tight turn around, crunching gears, and brushing overhanging branches, I had a melt down!  I didn’t like the narrow slope of the correct route.  Think I’ve had enough driving for today.  Quick look at Park4Night … where’s the nearest decent over night spot?  Parked up, I took COS along a track for a good walk and then a shorter walk for Feck … with separate walking I’m getting lots of steps in. 18,000 today.  Lovely wooded scenery and some stunning rocks.  

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10/07/22:  Konitsa Stone Arch Bridge and Gifts

After yesterday’s aborted route, I looked for a destination along a main road.  We really struck lucky with Konista.  We parked up right next to the 1871 stone bridge.  Marketed as the largest single stone arch bridge in Europe, it really is stunning.  And in a stunning location.  We had a hot and sticky 1.8km climb up to the town square along some stone lanes.  Normally Stella walks beautifully on the lead but today I had to tow her.  I tied her to Oscar so he could pull her up, which worked for a while.  When she lay down and refused to go further, I had to carry her.  Coffee, ice cream and a glass of wine were my reward!

On the descent, I managed to loose J, who had been walking behind with Feck.  I thought I’d been walking slowly enough and had checked at most turns, but I still managed to loose him.  I back tracked, but no sign, so decided the best bet was to return to the van … J could ask for directions to the bridge.  This episode highlighted the need for communications … J’s phone is with Vodafone who are now charging for roaming under their fair usage policy.  We have switched his phone to airplane mode as he keeps getting sales calls.  And he didn’t have any glasses to see to be able to turn his phone off airplane mode, so I couldn’t get through when I tried to ring him  Morals of this story:  walk slower, check at EVERY turn and J to carry the Greek phone.

With us all safely back at the van, J and 4xK9 napped whilst I knitted and nattered.  Firstly to a chap who had followed a girlfriend to Manchester.  We talked politics, media and about how great the mountains here are.  He came back with some stalks of oregano for me to hang to dry.  My other chat was with a priest who had come to take part in name day services at the nearby monastery.  We talked about knitting and how precise the Greek vocabulary is.  His gift was his email address and should we ever need anything.  Just how lovely are the Greeks.

Supper was at the hotel over the bridge watching the evening sun’s rays on the bridge and mountains.

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Konista stone bridge.

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The Priest was waiting for the 4wd to collect him and colleagues to save the 5 km walk to the monastery.  Not every day you see priests squished into a pick up!

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Watching the sun set over the bridge.  Mellow.

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11/07/22:  Aoos Gorge Walk & Voidomatis River

Konitsa Bridge crosses the Aoos River; the first 70 km are in Greece, the remainder in Albania.  We had stayed on the Aoos Lake a few days before. With an early start to beat the heat, we walked 6km out and back along the gorge.  It would have been 5 km each way to the monastery but it would have been too far for the pup (and us!).  Stunning rocks above us and in the gushing river.

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We had considered heading to the coast north of Igounmitsa for our last night, but decided it would probably be busy and wild camping may be difficult.  And we were loving the mountains.  We settled on a destination, but stopped and stayed en route at a lovely big flat space by an arch bridge on the Voidomatis River. 

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Bridge by our parking.  Watched a a large flat bed truck with a digger on board attempt to drive forward and then reverse over it … totally ignoring the 5 ton weight limit. 

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Walk to the ruin bridge 

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12/07/22:  Ferry or Not to Ferry

It was an easy run down to Igouminitsa for the 2130 hrs ferry.  We found shade to park up whilst we walked 4xK9, packed, did admin etc.  We had “lundin” (lunch/ dinner as named by the Aged Ps) at about 3.00 … unremarkable but plenty left over for takeaway.

We headed for the port to collect the tickets … or so I thought!  The muppet at the Minoan email booking office had emailed me the revised booking ref, but not added James or a pet friendly cabin.  There was availability for a normal cabin, but 4xK9 would have had to go into the onboard kennels.  Now, our sensitive soul Oscar bolts past Stalag 17 so not quite sure what being an inmate would do to him … or the other 3.  So having parted with an additional EUR295, we are now booked for tomorrow night  … with a pet friendly cabin.  Just wish all 4xK9 could be friendly!

Concerned about being moved on by police, as it is high season, we elected to stay at Camping Drepanos.  When we drove over in February, we stayed here to spend an evening with Brian.  And our last night in Greece is here … a nice symmetry in that.

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13/07/22:  Money’s Worth

We got out pitch fee of EUR30’s worth.  We spent the morning showering, laundry, cleaning, toilet cassette cleaning (YUK!) and filling with fresh water.  With nearly full diesel and LPG … all is good with the world.  At 2.00 p.m. we had to move off pitch, so set up in the shade to relax until time for the second attempt at leaving Greece.  Presented my revised ticket at the port, all good.  Strange system here.  J had to walk through the pedestrian passport control.  I drove round, presented my docs and was inspected … well, the van was.  Then collect J on the other side.  On board … yippee … Italy next.  

 

14/07/22: To Sleep or Not to Sleep

Another not brilliant night’s sleep for me as CO2 shared my narrow bunk.  What’s wrong with joining J???  I’d brought the MacBook on board so have been able to charge it with my EU cable.  Blogging, knitting, reading, napping and showering … pretty boring really.  It is a long old crossing.  We are not due to arrive in Ancona, Italy until 17.30.

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15-21/07/22: Travelling through France

We had an appointment with a vet in Cremona Italy for Stella’s puppy boosters and had lost a day with the Minoan ticket mix up, so had to drive till midnight on arrival in Ancona.  Smart new vet facility with a dog walking area and pet washing outside!

Then another long driving day to Antibes.  We stayed at Camping Les Treilles, as it is handy for James’ daughter Sarah and family.  Only EUR22 per night without electric.  But being the silly season, it is busy and we felt very closed in.  James went for lunch with Sarah, children and one of his son’s who is also staying.  I stayed back with 4xK9.  Feck is unpredictable and we just didn’t want him to be around the children, they cannot help but move suddenly.

After 2 nights on the campsite, we headed up to see Geo and Anetta in the Jura, with an en route overnight at Chirens.  Anetta and Geo were part of our lockdown family on the Turkish Campsite.  They have renovated part of the farm house adjacent to his parents with mostly recycled and up cycled furniture.  Fabulous.  We met at Lac des Vouglans (know I’d camped here as a child with the Aged Ps): swim and ice cream.  Then stayed over at their house, nattering, drinking and a great BBQ.

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Anetta and Geo’s.

Early start to get to Cluny for another vet appointment.  EUR61 for 4xK9 worming tablets is the best price I’ve very paid.  Very thorough vet assisted by 2 interns.  She spotted Corrie’s dew claws and clipped them.  Rather than shove the huge tablets down their throats, she burried them in Royal Canin pate.  Dogs happy and I was happy with the price too!

Overnights at Mailly le Camp and then our usual Bergues.  Tunnel on 21st and arrived at Woodlands Farm Chichester just after lunch.  Car collected and washing on at Aged Ps!  Trip complete.  Wouldn’t bring an unknown dog back with us again, unless Oscar approved!

07/02: Warring Dogs not Greek Gods!

Dog Relationships

Animals, just like people take others into instant aversion.  I remember Nicky telling me in my youth that my face clearly declared I did not like the new girlfriend of a friend … it became known as my Nadine face.  I’ve learnt to look more impassive since.  Oscar has no such sensibilities … he’s extremely growly and snappy at Feck.  Feck is still very reactive and grumbly, even at little Stella when she wants to play with him.  Poor Feck, don’t think he was ever allowed to play.  We had to re-think how we manage the situation after a particular nasty incident where I was about to walk Feck on the lead with the 3 other loose.  Oscar attacked F resulting in J having received another warning nip (and small bruise) from Feck.  And Feck slipping his collar.  Really concerned we would not be able to catch him, I dived into the van to fetch his food bowl with biscuits.  Talking and moving calmly, i followed him around for a bit … he sniffed always several paces ahead and I rattled his bowl.  Eventually food got his attention and he was captured.  Just call me the dog whisperer!

J and I agreed our stress levels were too high and we needed a better routine.  So now O and F are tied opposite ends of the van.  A dog is held back as the other enters or leaves the van.  Not ideal for either, but it works.  CO2+S are walked separately to F, and if all out together J follows with F behind so O can ignore him!  We did contemplate bolting for the UK to offload poor F, but we calculated it was only 19 days … and we could manage. We brought 2 large dogs back in April last year, whilst a handful, worked.  We have said 4 dogs never again.  Oscar is too unpredictable with whom he will accept.  Oh, I’ve just heard that I’ve 2 dogs to bring back when I fetch the Greek car at the beginning of August!  It’ll be fine, she says hopefully… I won’t have Oscar with me!

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Feck.

A Mini Mainland Holiday

02/07/22:  Departing Crete

Having collected Hercules / Feck and our very expensive fully comprehensive insurance from our broker ( €1891 with discount, and excess of €1650, and only 3rd party for the U.K.), we finished cleaning the house and loaded the car.  Good friends are arriving with 3 boys to use the house on 17th so I even managed to work out how to pull out the sofa bed without getting frustrated and therefore asking James to step in!  Friends of friends are using the house in September and when empty, the fabulous Spiros, our cut-it-all-back-hard gardener, checks on the house and the water metre.  This latter is important … water is fed along overground black pipes along side roads etc to properties.  At least it is for agricultural water.  Traffic and age means the pipes spring leaks. Our landlady had a leak racking up a several hundred euro bill one summer.  We’ve already had a small leak, which was, of course €70 to fix.  Again proof of my trades standard price theory, Spiros messaged … he’s upgraded and reset the irrigation system …. €70!!!

At the airport parking we swapped and unloaded into Jez, leaving the Suzuki for Ian, Mel and 3 boys.  We paid for the parking up to when I collect the car on 28th July from 7th February.  Thrown in 3 car washes at €10 each, the total bill was under €200!  Bloody marvellous, really. CCTV, gated and 24 hr surveillance and it met our insurers terms.

We sailed from Heraklion at 2100hrs just over 2 hours drive away.  Not our choice given Chania port is on our doorstep.  But our choice to have an overnight crossing with a cabin on this date. Didn’t have time to eat on the way or to pick up cabin fodder, so we took it in terms to stay with the dogs or go and eat.  J didn’t stray far from the cabin and had pizza in the bar.  I wandered further and found myself in the waiter service restaurant… no surprises there then!  I was tempted, but given J’s lack of exciting meal, I compromised with the self service restaurant!

With carrying a bag containing wine (we had managed to organise that!) and hanging onto 4 dogs, we couldn’t manage dog beds.  Approaching a flight of stairs and an escalator, we had to do th manual climb, but a member of staff took the heavy bag from me, placing it moving escalator and another chap at the top lifted it back onto my shoulder.  Clever!  I shall remember that.   It was also good to shower after a busy sweaty day!

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I didn’t get much sleep as COS bunked up with me and they’re narrow bunks!  I finally got around to doing some planning for our 9 days on the mainland.

 

03/07/22:  We’ve Been Here Before

6.30 a.m. disembarkation.  It feels early.  It is early.  I did have to pull over for a 20 minute nanny nap after a while.  Our destination was UNESCO Osios Loukas monastery. It had a full page spread in one guide book so I was surprised we had not visited it.   However, we had!.  It was one of those ‘we’ve been here before’ moments.  I’d just not marked it off in the book.   But we’ll worth the €4 to spend nearly a couple of hours wandering around.  Rather than stay in the car park, we drove for 15 mins to a chapel.  It had trees (shade) and a few benches, if rather hard.  Perfect with the dogs as I could let 3 off the lead and walk in various directions.  A much needed easy afternoon.

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Just look at the quality of the road on the mainland  where are the potholes and Oleander growing over?

 

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Osios Loukas monastery.  When we were here in Feb 2020 when the almond blossom was out.

 

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COS walking with Mount Parnassos in the distance.

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Our afternoon and night stay.

04/07/22:  Not Leaves, but Wild Fires De-rail Planning

We both exercised under the shade.  Well, I stopped when I was completely fed up with the wind wrapping my Pilates mat around me!

Our plan was to explore parts of the mainland new.  We set off up towards Thermopylae.  But our best laid plan was thwarted by a wild fire.  J said there is smoke.  No a cloud surely?  You just don’t recognise clouds as we’ve not seen one for ages.  But as we past a couple of farmers on tractors with large water containers, who were diverted off the road along a shortcut, and the cloud looked blacker, I conceded to J.  Needless to say our route was blocked and we were now heading South towards Itea.  We’d stayed here for a couple of nights in early 2020 just before setting off for Turkey, so didn’t really fancy it.  A busy large car park with 4 barking dogs, err no thank you.

We found a lovely peaceful spot past Itea on the water’s edge.   We watched the sea planes come in low, lower and touch down on the water, to collect a belly full to douse the fire.  I’d expected big suspended sacks of water.

Another easy afternoon, although not what planned.  I started the blog post on my MacBook.  Low battery warning.  No problem, I’ll plug in my new charging cable …. No, it won’t work with my 3amp EU to 3 pin plug adaptor.  One dead MacBook!  Grr.

Stella and Oscar came for a swim …

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Yep, definitely looks like smoke from here.

 

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Tractor with water diverted directly to fire.

 

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Smoke in the distance all afternoon and the next morning. 

 

05/07/22:  Left at Lefkada

The sea planes were back at it by breakfast so we surmised the road would still be blocked.  Forget Thermopylae … we will follow the main road along the south and the up the west coast Lefkada … an island joined by a causeway.  Motorhoming friends regularly stay there out of season, so we thought we’d take a gander.  The guide book implied the west coast was quieter, so wither we headed.  Yes quieter … due to the roads … narrow and bendy.  Had to reverse a few times to let SBR, RO, BG, NO and A cars past.  We didn’t like the look of the busy parking spots I had identified … all far too touristy and not great for 4xK9.  Let’s just get off the island!  We stopped and looked at the map.  Unless we went back exactly the was we had come (err, no thank you), we had to carry on heading S to pick up the main road (and we knew it would be a better road as it is orange on the map!) to return north to the causeway.  It had been a long driving day for all of us and was going to be another couple of hours!  About half way back up, we were coming down a mountain and and spotted a sports field adjacent to the water at Vlycho … they usually have parking and it did.

3 of the dogs played in the stagnant, smelly and brown water by us, so I had to walk them along the road to a fresh water area and chuck them in one by one!  I was rather smelly and wet too by this point.  J decided that after all my driving, I should not have to cook.  We were also feeling rather frazzled as Oscar has made it clear he WILL NOT accept Feck.  The grumbling and growling continues and twice now, O has had F by the scruff of the neck and shook him. We are rather shocked by this behaviour in our boy!  Despite us repeatedly telling him that it is only for 3 weeks, O is not reading the Memo.

The local taverna owner was shut as he was getting ready for a big name day celebration tomorrow.  Busy laying out tables and chairs for an anticipated influx of 2000 people. It would be an all night party.  And the following night!  We love a good party, but not when you don’t know anyone and you’ve 4 waring dogs, so we decided to move on the next day.  Helpfully, the taverna owner suggested the yacht club.  It was small and staffed by two lasses from Cork working their summer Uni vacation.  Most customers were faded yachty types.  But it was a typical English pub menu and actually a welcome change from Greek cuisine, much as we love it.  My chicken fajitas (no wrap or rice) were so yummy, I walked back with a very full tummy.

We’ve seen a lot more campers and Motorhomes on the mainland than Crete, as you would expect given the ferry crossing €€€s.  But even more on Lefkada.  None of them wave back … is it us?  But a Hungarian pulled in next to us late.  I warned them that we had 4xK9 thinking that would be a good deterrent.  But no, they repositioned their motorhome even closer!  WHY???  We didn’t see them in the morning when Oscar enthusiastically barked his morning chorus!

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Vlycho 

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Some of the bigger boats … met some of the crew in the yacht club last night.

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At dinner, Stella assisted oscar by removing fur burrs from his tail. 

06/07/22:  Koronisia

Driving off Lefkada, we agreed it is pretty but not for us in the silly season.  We drove up past Arte not stopping for the Roman Walls etc … seen on a previous visit and headed up to a beach in the middle of a lagoon area near Koronisia.  We have been here before, but it was so stinky sweltering hot, we just needed to be able to lie in the water, even if it were the temperature of tepid bath water.  A popular spot with a German and two French vans, all with awnings and chairs out.   Knowing our awning is ‘difficult’ to retract, we took the moral NO CAMPING stance and just got chairs out!

So another lazy afternoon where we alternately dozed and swam.  Feck even came in for a paddle and let me pour water over him.  What we had not anticipated was the scale of the mossie invasion … we have a system …  bedroom sprayed and door closed.  As we go to bed, we spray the living area and shut the connecting door.  Than when J gets up in the night, as he does, he leaves the door open.  We’d also not anticipated the humidity.  We reckon it as up at over 80%.  Fortunately the 12v fan over the bed doesn’t draw down the leisure batteries unduly, as it was on all night.

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07/07/22:  Ioannina

Heading north to the Pindos Mountains, uncharted territory for us, we stopped of at Ioannina.  This had been our first ever stop in Greece in our motorhome Dec 2017.  This time we parked south of the city and walked along the lake, past the castle.  A peaceful coffee lakeside and then wandered the old town.  We were stopped a number of times with people cooing over 4xK9.  Well, specifically over CO2 and Stella, who are tied as a trio to my waist.  J is behind with Feck, who pulls randomly in every direction, so actually I think I’ve the easier job with 3 of them.

We commented that Ioannina would be a fab place to base yourself for exploring the area or, indeed, just a weekend break.  One lady who stopped to pet COS, said she loved living here … lovely city and easy to get to mountains and coast.

Leaving Ioannina we drove the other side of the lake, where we’ve stayed before and found a large cleaning with views of the city through the trees.  And most importantly, some shade!   Sadly previous folk stopping here had left a carpet of wet wipes, toilet paper, water bottles, fag packets and the odd condom.  Nice.  So with our disposable gloves that we use for dying my hair, we filled a black sack.  The other downside of this parking was the flies.  So another spray of one section of the van and then the other.

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Ali Pashacastle in ioannina.

 

 

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Ioannina old town.

 

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