We considered hitching to the main start of the Truso Valley walk. But unsure if we’d get a lift, and more concerning, a return lift with Corrie, I drove the 3.6 dirt track. I’m absolutely NOT doing any more dirt tracks … we lost a piece of the wheel arch on the return.
The walk itself was busy with people and 4×4 passing us. Note to self: if we want to get down another dirt track, we need to rent a car / and driver.
Along the valley are abandoned Ossetian villages. One guidebook warned there may be Georgian soldiers as it’s close to the South Ossetian border. We didn’t walk that far 😂
I left J at a cafe when the path had a sheer drop one side and I walked onto a thermal sulphur pool. The scenery is majestic.
Where we parkedTravertine terraces Abano Lake: I didn’t swim as I didn’t want to smell of sulphur
We drove onto Sno. And we hope it doesn’t Sno. Even more majestic mountains as we drove here.
Incredible colour – almost blue
We are parked up, just off the road (no dirt tracks) adjacent to the huge stone heads. I like a bit of the bizarre, but do they all have to be bearded men?
Nose picker!We wandered into Sno, drawn by the tower. I like the shabby architecture Evening view, with moon
The Military Highway. With stops. It connects Russia to Georgia. Was a main freight route until a railway along the Caspian Sea was built in 1883. Started life as a track. 800 Russian soldiers converted it to a carriage road in 1783.
The drive up was not as stunningly pretty as the drive up to Mestia, Svaneti, but the road was much less under construction, so easier. Although J may disagree … the overtaking on blind bends had our hearts in our mouths. Including a coach. Being right hand drive, as the passenger, he bore the brunt of cars and trucks coming round on our side. We only saw one accident.
Several stops en route.
Bodorna Church was 1.6km up a a seriously steep and muddy hill. But I promised J he would see hooks outside where they used to hang the sacrificial lamb. Sadly we couldn’t find the hooks, but the views were good.
Steep and muddyDogwood berries, had to stop C consumingNo hooks 😢Monument of 300 Aragvians … lost their lives fighting Persians … quite a bizarre structure
We stopped to admire the Zhinvala Reservoir. Apparently protests prevented the level being higher and saved some ancient churches.
We elected not to go inside the Ananuri Castle to see its churches. Very attractive setting.
Ananuri Castle on Zinvala Reservoir. A tourist hotspotOld road heading … into water!
Everyone on the road stopped at the Georgian Russian friendship monument. Tourist central. 70m mosaic, created by Russia in 1983 to commemorate a treaty 200 years before. Quite how that worked with Soviet occupation … ??? But the views from there were staggering.
70m of mosaic and 700 tourists. Tourists central with folk selling crap. And a coach load with blue and pink hoodies,all with ‘friends’ on the front. Friends as in TV series. No colours for non binary, gay etc. Views from the monument were stunning. And some expansive views (and sun) as we descended from the Jvari Pass 2,395m
We considered driving 9k down a dirt track for a parking but saw a closed ski cable car so have sheltered from the winds in front of it. Expecting 4C tonight. Brr!
Dirt track I didn’t fancy and lorries coming up full of cattle Expecting 4C tonight. No heating on. I’m ok!
We had planned to make a good start up the highway today but the forecast was cloud all day and some rain. And very cold in the mountains. Not the best when the heating only works off the leisure batteries, which then drain … fast! So we kept close to Tbilisi rather than head to the hills.
J quite fancied the Tbilisi Auto Museum, tucked away in an industrial estate. But I found it fascinating too. Google was super helpful. So was the guardian, who spotted us outside and opened up an hour early for us. And offered to fetch an English speaking guide.
Initially Ford collaborated with Russia, kit cars purchased in return for assistance in building a Russian car factory. Opel, Fiat and then Renault in the ‘60’s similarly collaborated. Renault was a significant car factory shareholder until Russia invaded the Ukraine. They had to withdraw, so sold their shares to Putin for one Ruble. With a buy back clause of 6 years. Wonder if Renault is starting to panic yet?
All the cars are one man’s collection. All the cars in the shed are in driving order with original tyres. Really quite amazing.
40s, 50s and 60s workers cars based on Fiat 500The bigger cars for bosses, politicians and black for KGB. The Continental outside was nearly as big as Jez
We elected to drive a badly truck rutted road the far side of Tbilisi Sea (lake) rather than go back through the centre. This took us to Mtskheta, pronounced Skayta … really?!? It was the capital of the region from the 4th to 5th centuries, scene of the royal family conversion to Christianity with several main UNESCO churches.
We really didn’t care for the Jvari Cross church, although the situation at the top of a hill was very striking. It is very old, 586-604, and was being propped up internally by columns so you couldn’t actually see a great deal. And there were tourists everywhere.
View from the top down to Mtskheta What you could see insideA tad chilly
We drove down into Mtskheta and parked near the river and police station. Nice and safe so we decided to stay the night. But not before we walked to the Sveti Tshkhoveli Cathedral. This was more impressive than the Tbilisi cathedral.
The name means living pillar. The story goes that a local Jew bought Jesus’ shroud from a Roman soldier. His sister touched it and promptly died from the emotion of touching it. It could not be removed from her dead hands, so she was buried with it. An enormous cedar tree grew from her grave. It was cut down to make columns for the cathedral. One column rose up by itself and had a healing liquid that flowed from it. Couldn’t see any columns ourselves. But liked the architectural features.
Sveti Tshkhoveli CathedralAnd a wedding and separate baptism being performed
With our trusty water pistol J saw off a number of dogs when we walked back along the river.
It’s been some time since I wrote my blog! But better late than never…
I’ve been with my current owners for seven years! Well, they think they own me but it’s the other way round actually. I’ve taught them their Ps and Qs – James is quite good at peeing (outside of course) and Katherine gets to queue a lot while shopping!
It’s been two years since Oscar passed on – we miss him – but I am happy to be top dog – only dog… we’re on another grand motorhome tour for three months- currently in Georgia (not the Deep South) but the Georgia next to Turkey. Turkey, Georgia and Armenia are our destinations. Turkey was ok if you don’t want wine (I don’t obviously), Georgia is awash with it – and we’ll see Armenia soon.
Being K9 critical, Turkey is bad for people leaving loads of rubbish around – and Georgia is the worst ever for wild dogs! K and J have travelled for ten years and seen wild dogs in lots of countries but this place takes the biscuit – they are not getting my biscuits – well, occasionally…
We liked Ankara but not Istanbul – Kutaisi in Georgia is good and Tbilisi was very good. For the dogs, they carry a water pistol and shoot to soak them – it works… Some days ago I was bitten by a domestic dog – two wounds – a visit to a vet who wouldn’t charge anything, and lots of treats because I was “girl poorly”…..
K is completely potty over her new grandson – on FaceTime she coos and calls over and over “It’s Nana, Nana…”
Time to continue my seventeen hours per day sleeping… more K9 reports later – Kalispera…
30/09/2025 Dinner nearby last night … lost in translation, but a litre and a half of wine arrived! We did take some home. And the most garlicky chicken 🤤
Soup with the leftovers A relaxedJ … anything to do with the wine?Parked up near the new cathedral
We did a 3 hour walking tour. Excellent guide, but why do they talk so fast? Sam, the Australian, we’d given a lift to from Svaneti, was on the tour.
David the guide explaining the Georgian toasting tradition Peace Bridge opened 2010Theological UniSulphur bathsLunch was good until unusually J wanted pudding. A step (several mouthfuls) too far.
We both really like the architecture and feel of Tiblisi so will stay another day.
Our Own Tbilisi Tour
01/10/2025
We loaded two bags with laundry and staggered 1.3km with it. Under £10. Georgia so much better value than Turkey.
Free of our burdens, we did a Katherine led walking tour. I’d plotted the main places of interest that we’d not done yesterday with the official walking tour. We had planned to use the cable car up to the view point, cafes and gardens and then take the funicular down. But the weather was grey so there would have been limited visibility.
Lots of fun statues, I especially love the last one showing the joy of dance. Lots of decrepit buildings – shabby chic. Many with cracks from the 2002 earthquake. But economic uncertainty and decline since the Soviet collapse and insufficient building regulations to force demolition or repair.The State buildings looked the part. Including a permanent demonstration outside the Government building. I wonder if the stormy skies above are symbolic? We checked on which day’s demonstrations were planned. Armenian Church with no floorArmenian church tower as Soviets destroyed restDid enjoy the frescos, some C18Public Services Offices, known as the Umbrellas Freedom Square. The St George was donated recently by a Georgian sculpturerFun clock tower built by the owner of the adjacent puppet theatre Underpasses, some with shops and a convenient convenience Part of the Berlin Wall – we saw a similar gift from Germany in TiranaThe new cathedral Side view of the Peace Bridge
We both think Tbilisi is possibly our favourite capital. Plenty to do for a city break.
Our lovely lunch of 2 soft drinks, bacon and cheese omelette (J), chunky fries (both) and delicious trout stuffed with cheese and walnut paste as only £16.10 in a side street restaurant. We didn’t eat again.
Clune Gap Years 