About Clunegapyears

Travelling around Europe with James in our motorhome. And now solo, with friends

1118-1120: Biking around Dordrecht and Rotterdam

Posted on April 3, 2019 by Clunegapyears

1118: Dordrecht

Friday 29th March 2019

Yesterday arrived in Holland at Dordrecht. With wild camping being illegal, and not wanting a fine, we are using marinas, aires and campsites. This marina here was EUR14.50 with electric, showers, toilets and a waterfront location. Very secure and peaceful. We manoeuvred into a waterside pitch.

We deployed the bikes and the Os-car for the dogs and then wandered around Dordrecht. Dordrecht looks out over the busiest peice of water in Europe: it is where the Rhein and Meuse exit. A light lunch in town.

A cow on top of a chimney? A dutch BBQ? Although we suspect a more erudite meaning (Apollo and Europa – some of Stephen Fry’s Mythos audio book sunk in!), as this was over the library.

Dordrecht had been the major shipping city, before Rotterdam. In fact, the first Dutch city to be granted a city charter. All goods had to be stored here and pay taxes. The locals are known as Sheep’s heads, as a cunning farmer dressed a sheep in human clothing, walked it between two people through the city gates to avoid a tax … unfortunately it baaa’d just then and they are caught!

We didn’t go in, but this is the Hof, court of justice, where the States of Holland first convened.

1119: Biesbosch National Park

Saturday 30th March

So peaceful a spot, we decided to stay another day, so I climbed the tower to the Marina control to hand over another EUR14.50. Whilst there, we established from the timetable that the ferry across to the Biesbosch National Park wasn’t running yet. Ho hum, the bikes were ready. We were ready. And CO2 were ready, so we’d just do a shorter bike ride. As we got to the ferry crossing, one was just coming in. What luck. We jumped on and had a bike ride around the National Park. No pix as it was as flat as a pancake. A lot of geese! You are still very conscious of industry … power pylons, wind sails and the odd factory chimney in the distance. Give that the Netherlands is the third most densely populated country in Europe after Monaco and Malta, this is not surprising.

1120: Rotterdam

Sunday 31st March

Another visit to the marina master’s ivory tower to pay for a 4th night! We cycled to Dordrecht again and caught the hour long water bus (with dogs, bikes and Os-car, the dog trailer) to Rotterdam. Our bums are just getting used to the bike saddles after an absence of about a year! After a beautiful day yesterday it was blistering cold today. We were just on the point of ditching the bikes thinking it would be warmer walking – fast, when the sun finally came out. Biking around such a major city was a synch. Clearly defined cycle paths and we got to see more of the city that we would have otherwise.

I’d cleverly ordered the Holland Pass … museum card and we tried to redeem this at the Euromast (high tower with a lift) but no, I was told to go to the Central Station. No, you used to be able to collect it there, but no longer. There are ONLY only in 5 points in Amsterdam! Telecon and email correspondence with Holland Pass and hope we get a refund. Note to self … read the small print!!!

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Some interesting modern architecture … post war Rotterdam was the one place they allowed modern architecture to flourish and it still is. P&O Britannia was in for two days. A couple told us it was a short cruise … Rotterdam and then Guernsey.

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Witte Hus – this Art Deco 1898 sky scraper was one of the tallest in Europe for a long time at 148ft. Constructed form iron and steel, it has two thick interior walls. It survived WW2 bombing.

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Kubuswoningen, Cube Houses, the cube is tilted 45deg, and rests on a hexagonal pylon. There are 38 apartments, whilst they 100square metres, 25% is unusable due to the walls and the angled ceilings.

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The Markthal has 228 apartments as well as office space, with a huge daily food market in the middle. The outward facing apartments had balconies, and seemed much more desirable than the cube houses. Opened in 2014 it has a stupendous painted roof depicting fruit and vegetables.

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James nibbled the samples all the way round the market!

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We cycled onto Delftshaven, which was also fairly unscathed from WW2. Ancient warehouses are now restaurants antique and bookshops. We stopped outside the church where the Dutch Pilgrim Fathers set off for the new world. The leaky Speedwell boat barely made it to Britain, where they transferred to the Mayflower.

1102-1112: Friends and France

Posted on April 2, 2019 by Clunegapyears

1102- 1103: Leaving Home – Slowly

Wednesday 13th March – Thursday 14th March 2019

We both virtually killed ourselves cleaning and getting our stuff out of the house. On our knees. We left on the Wednesday and the first holiday visitors arrived on Saturday, so it had to be VERY clean. James left in the van, and all I had to do was clean the kitchen floor, have a shower and then clean the shower. And then follow in the loaded car. Cleverly I stuck the clothes I was wearing in the washing machine, only to discover I’d not tightened the seal enough when I’d cleaned the filter. Result … a bit of flood in the utility room. At this point I realised that my clean clothes, I’d planned to wear were actually in the van with James … it was chilly naked kitchen floor clean and then I had to wait till my clothes were just dry enough to put back on! Afterwards, I remembered I could’ve wrapped a towel around me!! Told you I was tired … not thinking!

Whilst parked up for 2 nights at the Fox and Goose pub in Greywell, we sorted out the van …. disposing stuff at the Aged P’s house … fortunately they were in South Africa and would have barred the door at how much we brought back to the house. So I kindly sent them photos of each stage of loading boxes in and, mostly, up to the attic!

As we were staying in a pub car park, it would have been rude not to eat there … first night with sister Clare and Chris, and second night with Maddy.

As well as a dentist for me, I lost 1.5 hours of my life in the vets, trying to get a form completed for the health cert that will replace the Pet Passport when / if there is no deal … only to discover the vet had the wrong form … the correct form would not be released by DEFRA for a few days! As we moved along the south coast visiting friends, we rang various vets whether knew nothing, or did not have the right sort of vet in the practice. A phone call to DEFRA established that the form would not be sent to vets until 20.03 … our Tunnel crossing was booked for early on 21st, and they could not tell me what time of day it would arrive. Ho hum. My DEFRA contact did go and check, when I asked, and confirmed that we could get the form done by any EU vet. Nothing about this on their web site … or what people already in Eurozone are supposed to do. No surprises there then!

The Aged P’s were delighted that we took the twin tub from their shed … but not so pleased, we left an awning, dog run and shopping trolley (mistake!) in its place!

Not to mention, what we left in the attic. Dad had only recently remarked how spacey the attic had seemed after we’d emptied it! They are not allowed to move house.

Sarah and Mac … this one is for you … we stayed at the Fox and Goose and had to have a Butterscotch sundae – yummy.

1104-1109:Sleeping on Driveways!

Friday 15th March – Wednesday 20th March

With Jez the motorhome ready to roll, we set off for Eastbourne. We met up for dinner both Friday and Saturday with friends staying in a hotel, whilst we wild camped in a street back from the coast. It was a 1.4km walk each way but along the front, so perfect for the dogs. Gale Eric was not so perfect, but we got blown one way and fought our way back.

Sunday night saw us parked up in Rustington, straddling the drives of Ian and Jimmy and their most lovely neighbours, Ted and Marj. We had a fishy lunch with a couple of my old muckers (Gill, Gordon and Al), who came down from London, Maddy, who came from Brighton, Mel and boys, Ian’s parents and Nicky’s parents Ruth and Brian. Really lovely to see them all. Not so lovely was my sense of being poisoned the next day … I blame Mel, who kept us drinking … a sea front run sorted that out though! For us anyway … not saying who might have had a late start the next morning!

We took refuge on a campsite for a DRY night, and then spent a night on Sue and Mick’s driveway. We met them in Greece and had another good night with them. A slow start and off to the Canterbury aire. Where I trawled ALL the opticians trying to find one that would sell me 4 months worth of 1.5 contact lenses! I should specify +1.5 contact lenses. Being new to using them, I’d ordered -1.5 (OK! I thought the – was not a negative but a dash!) … I soon found my error on applying one to my left eye and my vision being so compromised to be dangerous! A quick text to Lin and Bo, who we’d be seeing in a few days and they could be delivered to their home before they left! Phew!

1110-1115: Arras and WW1 Sights

Thursday 21st – Tuesday 26th March

We have never seen the Canterbury aire or Eurotunnel so quiet! And really quiet! So many people just haven’t travelled due to Brexit uncertainty. Just hope we have remembered to cover all the documentation we need!

Meg had ferried from Hull to Rotterdam and we’d liaised that if the weather was OK, she’d delay her journey south and meet us in Arras. We had such a lovely time, having coffee in the squares, at the market, doing the tourist sights and eating together in the evening … we all stayed 4 nights! Arras is really close to Calais and is definitely worth a few days trip. Blanche is a Papillon, the same breed that just won Crufts. She might be small and fluffy, but she doesn’t take any nonsense from CO2!

Meg left to head down through the Rhone valley, in the vague direction of Slovenia or Croatia, and we moved a short distance down the coast to Peronne and a campsite for 2 nights. After 12 days away, we desperately needed a free and voluminous water supply to do some laundry … the twin tub was deployed all afternoon! And the weather Gods smiled on us and send a good drying wind!

Our home for 4 nights on the banks of a canal in Arras. Great for running and dog walking. And a short walk or hop onto the free electric noddy bus.

Re-built as 80% of the city was flattened, in the original Flemish Baroque styles. Several such squares. Meg and I climbed the belfry … in a lift, and we all visited the Boves (caves) underneath, dug out for the chalk as a building material.

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I think it was 214 men who were executed here for their resistance work. Their names line the walls.

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The British cemetery.

Meg and I visited the Wellington caves. Also dug out for the chalk stone, but joined up and enlarged by 500 New Zealand engineers and British miners, so they could hold 20,000 Allies soldiers for a week before the Battle of Arras in April 9th 1917. They were dug out by hand so as not to alert the German forces.They were homed here in secret and some of the tunnels went up to the front line. The push gained the Allies 11 km at a cost of 4000 casualties on the first day. Total deaths were 160,000 British Third and First Army and the Germans lost 125,000.

Having got all excited and dragged Meg into the town on Friday, as I’d not listened to both Meg and James that I was a day adrift, we finally caught the market on Saturday! Huge market and I filled the fridge with veg, as well as half a rabbit (yummy). We ended up buying a shopping trolley…. madness really as this was an item we’d left in the Aged P’s shed! Spot Blanche.

I toured the WW1 museum in Peronne. It gave equal weight to the Allies and Germany and presented artefacts in a different way. Really worth a visit too. This is a British Officer’s tea making facilities for the trenches … for all as if going on a family picnic.

Rather than display uniforms and artillery in display cases, they were in ‘graves’ on the floor. I hadn’t known that due the mechanisation, they had re-armour troops. each country had its own styles of steel helmet, largely styled on native peasant hats.

1116-1117: Contact Lens Delivery!

Wednesday 27th – Thursday 28th March 2019

Electric cable and twin tub stowed away, we drove for less than an hour to Marcoing. We had an assignation with my contact lens couriers! We managed to throw in a meal and some wine, except Bo, who was the only one who showed restraint on the 0% lager! Amazing Lin and I did not suffer a bad head, but both just felt shaky … needless to say the menfolk drove late morning when we eventually set off! Lin and Bo (& Maud the cat) are heading in a leisurely way to Crete. Tempting to join them, but we are headed to the Keukenhof Gardens in the Netherlands and then to S Germany for Kerstin’s 50th; possibly Poland in between. Who knows!

Oscar and Corrie’s Diary

Bon Jours mes enfants! Ici deux chiens – Corrie et Oscar et moi est Corrie – Le TopDog….. Alors – Oscar est ok-ish… Nous avant en La Belle France, perchance. My command of Franglais even surprises moi! We are in France because our pets K and J say so. As for the language skills, please don’t alert L’Acadamie Francais! We’ve been to Arras, Peronne and Macoing – Lo and Bin and Maud we met – they’re good salty dogs (and cat). They imbibe a little but then – who doesn’t? K and J don’t know we steal out the gin when they’ve gone a bedding…. we clean our teeth to disguise the aroma. It’s all ‘mist to the grill’… I quite like ‘Trever Fee’ tonic. They say we’re going to someplace called ‘Neverthenlands’ – all water and canals filled with bicycles – a little boy stuck his pecker in a dyke to save people – it must been a big’un! Oscar could do that, I think… Well, we’ve moved on to Gouda – cheeses! Not the ones with holes in – that’s a place where the cheese is made by the little boys pecker! Tonight J dragged us out in a thunderstorm! Made my eyes water and my makeup ran… but I can borrow K’s makeup bag (later).

Ok – tot zien (Dutch) and watch out for stray peckers!

Yours in treats, songs and sardines – its a good life….

Corrie and Oscar.

New Home & Treatment

Posted on March 29, 2019 by Clunegapyears

So we are now back on the road, but just a quickish up date since our last travels in September … how the time flies.

Medical

James’ radiotherapy for prostate cancer started on 26.09.18 and continued for 7.5 weeks. During this time we stayed on our much frequented CL in Farnham. The treatment necessitated early starts for beat the Guildford traffic, J had a bacon roll and got to know the hospital cafe staff pretty well. He got a hug on his last day! I walked the dogs nearby and got back to the hospital as his treatment usually finished. Side effects have been increased hot flushes – worse than mine were, but he now has tablets which have dealt with that. He also gets tired which necessitates regular nanny naps.

About 3 weeks ago J had another PSA test (prostate problems blood test indicator) and a meeting with his rather glamorous (young, blonde, bright) oncologist. As both she and the urologist had said previously … all good and she doesn’t want to see him for 6 months. The hormone therapy continues. But we are super delighted and we really do know how lucky we are.

Houses

We have been thinking for some years about buying a property abroad, but J’s medical issues, made us feel more confident about staying in the UK where we both fully understand what is said to us. Not to mention Brexit uncertainty! So, France, Greece and Portugal all lost out! Our tenants moved out on 12th September 2018 and we moved our motorhome onto the driveway and lived in it whilst we sorted out furniture etc.

Our furniture that was in storage got delivered into the lounge. One jam packed garage was disgorged and sorted into the other garage, with numerous extraneous items offered for free on the local facebook page, such as a bread oven, tables, sofa bed …

I was able to go to Guildford hospital for James’ first radiotherapy session, then we had a staff lunch with the Aged P’s (they do car care and admin for us when we are away) and then I drove back to Bristol. The removals company had been in and loaded, so I slept in the floor and cleaned the house. The next day the property completion took place and we (or I) took possession of our new North Devon home in Combe Martin. I played the cancer card with the removals chaps …. please move that wardrobe 6 inches to the left! I did several full loads in the car to empty the Aged P’s attic of our stuff … full to the brim with barely breathing space for the dogs … and one trip I had a hight speed blow out on the M5. And where was the spare? Under a mountain of stuff, of course.

So what have we bought … a Devon long House in Combe Martin, North Devon, dating from late 1600s. Three double bedrooms, lots of downstairs space and no grass to cut … just flower beds and two patios! You can look at it here … We’ve bought it with a view to letting for holiday lets and when we (eventually) want to reduce or stop our roving life, we will live in it. So, in the meantime, if you fancy the N Devon coast for a break, you know where to book.

Whilst we were there, we had a new shower room installed, decorated one bedroom, widened the driveway, fenced the perimeter to make it dog safe, painted two lots of pine bed bedroom furniture and made 12 cushion covers, added plumbing to the utility room …. busy busy work work chop chop bang bang. Have come away for a rest!

Sorting garages and furniture that arrived down from the storage unit at the house we sold. Looks like a load of old rubbish!

Tythe Barn House used to be a B&B and this is an old postcard we were given. The porch and windows have since been updated.

North Devon Life

We commuted from Farnham weekends until mid-November, leaving the motorhome on site. We both strongly feel attached to the village, even in the short time we lived there … until mid March. It is a thriving village with a pulse … butcher, 4 all year pubs (we came second last a couple of times in the pub quiz!), library and doctors surgery. Lots of good local walks etc. Love it.

We had a lot of visitors too … great to spend time with so many folk, but we still didn’t manage to see everyone we would have liked to. James had a trip to Antibes to see one daughter and small grandkids and I had a week in Cuba with Maddy.

Damien Hurst’s controversial Verity (Truth and Justice statue in Ilfracombe.

Making paper mâché hats / lids for James and my New Year fancy dress costumes ….

In the local pub as Salt and Pepper pots!

We joined the RHS as Rosemoor Gardens is not far. Their pre Christmas Night Glow was magical.

More art and craft … what a creative mother I am!!!!

Lots of fudge making in the slow cooker … too tempting!

Combe Martin bay with the tide out.

Dog whisperer.

Body bags … best ever purchase.

Combe Martin Rememberance Service

Woolacombe Beach.

Christmas and Boxing Day with my Aged P’s and Clare, Chris etc.

Maddy, Niecey, Louis and Zozo used to put on plays for the family, and an old programme was dug out … the blonde wig make several appearances – think Louis may still have it!

Birthday running jacket. Oscar asking when we’re off!

Christmas full set of thermals … gotta remember that this is our first UK winter in 4 years, thank goodness it was a mild one!

A rather special Niecey’s 21st.

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It had to be climbed! We invested in a set of gaiters each as it is sooo muddy everywhere!

Worried our little Greek dog would feel the cold … a hand knitted jacket … she didn’t go out in it though!

Me, Mum, Clare, Tim and Dad!

Our Ladies in Havana

Posted on March 24, 2019 by Clunegapyears

Maddy will soon be 21, so her birthday gift was a trip to Cuba for a week. Actually it is the Christmas and birthday presents for the next 10 years. 3 nights in a room with an en suite in old town Havana and 4 nights in an all incl. resort.

No apologies, we were total tourists.

I have warned James that I spotted 3 hired motorhomes …. one day when we are dog free.

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The Capitol, copied from the States, of all places! We timed it wrong to go inside, but apparently it houses one of the worlds largest indoor statues.

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We estimated that every 6th car in the city was an old American 1050’s. A lot of Lada too from the post revolution close ties with the USSR.

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It is true … you are told to walk down the centre to avoid balconies falling on your head.

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Colour everywhere. Most bars had live bands.

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I jumped halfway to Jamaica when this chap moved.

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More local colour.

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Cars waiting for the visitors off the cruise massive ship, which was moored up for the whole of our stay.

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Our 1950’s 2.5 hour car ride. We’d booked seats, but as no-one else had booked, we had the driver and guide to ourselves. The young female guide and Maddy bonded … she really liked M’s eyebrow makeup! She told us that in Cuba you could only get the State branded makeup, which was rubbish, so you needed a friend to bring other brands in for you. She had wanted to share a house with 3 other female friends whilst at Uni. 3 of the mothers forbade it, as the community would gossip and assume they were all gay!

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Revolution Square where major events still take place. Our guide said that here really was NOT the place to criticise the government, as you wouldn’t be seen again.

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John Lennon in Lennon Park, not that the Beetles ever went to Cuba.

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Such a strong Dacquiri, the Mama had to help out!

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Open top tour bus; we both suffered sun burn despite, the sun lotion (unused) in my bag!

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A huge, and I mean vast, cemetery.

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View from the top of the Hotel d’Ingles, where we couldn’t get the blinking waiter to serve us, so we went elsewhere. The super posh hotel on the left exchanged some money later on and they were super pleasant and efficient.

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At the Cuban Rum Museum, they had a model of a sugar planation. The guide explained how rum was a by product of sugar, but most of the raw mush is now brought in, as the sugar plantations have mostly gone.

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The older run is matured in whisky barrels, so neither M nor I liked it. Later on I won a half bottle of 10 year old, but it is still at Maddy’s! And she doesn’t even like it!

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At Hemmingway’s fav Daiquiri bar El Floridita. You can just spot the big man himself behind the 2 bods, who would not move!

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I managed to run a few times along the sea front, dodging the water crashing over.

And dodging the drops straight into the sea underneath where man holes were missing. Most of the infrastructure was needing attention.

I told you to wear comfy shoes, and now we’ve had to swap.

Strawberry Daiquiri, just to ring the changes. We did manage a fair few Mohoitos too.

Our balcony view from our hotel in Varadero. Included in our stay was one night in the a la carte waiter served restaurant. They had really made an effort, by covering the chairs with fabric and bows and giving us a welcome glass of fizz … think sparkling apple juice … Oh that would be cider then. But the food was not good. Italian night, Maddy had mushroom risotto as the starter … long grain rice with cheese sprinkled on top and few tinned mushrooms! A number of people left their food and headed back to the buffet with its massive choice.

1088-1101: Back to the Emerald Isle

Posted on September 11, 2018 by Clunegapyears

1088: Drive to Holyhead

Wednesday 29th August 2018

I was driving and made a bit of mistake … I followed the sat nav and it took us across Wales on the A5 which we are sure is slower than crossing Wales at the top … BUT it was very pretty. Another must come back to place. We ate and rested near the Marina in Holyhead before catching our 2.30 am ferry. The Irish crossings are unenlightened when it comes to dogs – they either have to be booked into their Stalag metal cages in the kennels, or stay in the vehicles. We are not sure if they slept, but we got a humungous welcome when we returned. We did NOT sleep. There were quite a few solo men (lorry drivers without cabins) who were horizontal and the cacophony of snores was LOUD. One chap gave us serious cause for alarm with his breath rasping like a death rattle.

1089: Yippee Back in Ireland

Thursday 30th August

We rested up a Malahide, next to the castle and park, before driving down to Camac Valley Campsite. Our home for 4 nights, so awning up and dog walks in the adjacent park. We largely ignored the dogs on leads signs, unless someone with small children was approaching. We really do find Ireland pretty dog unfriendly … not allowed on busses, or in cafes etc.

1090: Kilmainham Goal

Friday 31st August

We cycled through the park to the Grand Canal, which is a cycle path. Now you would think a cycle path allows one to cycle freely. Not here! There were 8 barriers; you could just wiggle a bike through, although no room for panniers. But we had to tether the dogs, whilst we unhitched and lifted the Os-car over the barriers. Did I mention 8 times!!! We came back along the road, not as pretty but un-hitching free.

We had pre-booked timed tickets, taking it in turns to mind the dogs. The goal was built along the lines of Pentonville, with the 3 Ss: Silence, Separation and Supervision. As well as political prisoners, it also housed ordinary folk. The inmates swelled to over 4000 during the famine as people were imprisoned for stealing a loaf as well as begging. The leaders of the 1916 uprising were here and many were slaughtered in the yard used for rock breaking, until the British government put a stop to it as they realised the tide of public opinion was against. A really moving place.

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Later the Carbage 50cc scooter event arrived for one night. The rules are the bikes must be over 15 years old and only 50cc. They had driven from Harwich across England and Wales over 5 days.

1091: Family and Friends

Saturday 1st September

MaryKate (J’s niece and Goddaughter), hubby Michael and two off spring drove down to see us, later joined by old friends Fionulla and Sean for a late lunch, or is it early supper?

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1092: Kerstin and The Game

Sunday 2nd September

Two big events today. James got to go and see the GAA Gaelic Football Final, which his team won. Up the Dubs. He even managed to stay out till quite late!!!

Meantime, I did jobs around the van and walked the dogs. The other significant event was Kerstin arriving from Germany … she arrived around midnight, Ryan Air was late, but at least it was flying.

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UP THE DUBS!

1093: Onto Kerry

Monday 3rd September

After showers on board (we saved EUR6 between us buy not using the campsite showers), we headed off to Kerry. Our destination was the Killarney National Park before we drove the Ring of Kerry. K and I walked to Muckross Abbey and then around the outside of Muckross House. Although towards the end of the day, there were till lots of Jaunting Cars (horse and carts for which Killarney is well known) offering to drive us and the dogs around the estate for EUR40. Thank you but we like walking!

We found an overnight parking in a small leafy car park further on around the lake. As well as Motorhome Craic, we also used Park4Night as the best apps for Ireland.

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The Abbey was free to wander. Huge and with some massive fire places … how those Monks lived.

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The graveyard was still in use.

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The house had superb views down the lawn to the lake.

Each evening, I get the map, guide books and iPad apps out to plan where we go and stay, often over a glass of sherry!

1095: A Day of Walks

Tuesday 4th September

We walked from our parking to Torc Waterfall. Easy to loose the crowds on a circular walk past the waterfall. A slight incident, where we lost Corrie … we could hear her barking excitedly from a distance. It seamed like she was gone about 15 mins, but Kerstin timed our wait and it was only 5 mins. She came back pleased with herself, only to be promptly put on the lead until the landscape was more open and we could see her!

At Torc Waterfall.

I had posted a question about driving along the scenic Gap of Dunloe, to be advised that it was hardly suitable for cars, let alone motorhomes. In Killarney, the TIC told us that there was parking at Kitty’s Kitchen. We were heading along the start of the Ring of Kerry, travelling anti-clockwise as advised so as to travel with the coaches … narrow roads and negates the need to suck in our sides and pass. We did a spontaneous turn following the signs for the Gap of Dunloe. We were really pleased we did … fabulous scenery. Very like Scotland. J joined us for an ice-cream on our return! We had done something like 15kms, so deserved.

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Joseph and his technicolour dream coat. No mistaking these for boulders on the hills.

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Waiting for our triple ice creams 🙂

We overnighted on the Comane Peninsular. Great views out across to Dingle. The pub next door, Jack’s, is a well known seafood restaurant, but sadly shut for food on Tuesdays. Probably just as well as mains were around EUR29-34! We did manage a drink though and got some advice from the locals.

Planning.

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1096: Mega Sightseeing

Wednesday 5th September

Sight seeing included the Kerry Bog Village, where local dwellings had been relocated. The information was a little dumbed down … coaches stop here. Fortunately, the ticket office gave us the group rate so entry was only EUR5 pp, saving of EUR1.50. Actually, we have been pleasantly surprised at how reasonable all entrance prices have been.

Cahersiveen had a lot to offer and it was here that we really started to find out about Daniel O’Connell, The Liberator. He was a pacifist and believed that independence should be gained through legal means. He was elected to the British Parliament and attended but refused to take the oath as it was Protestant. To avoid an uprising, the Act of Catholic Emancipation was passed. He also supported the abolition of slavery, women’s rights etc.

Our overnight was an absolute gem. Cooncrome Harbour. Just us, the waves and the stars. Lovely chat with a local fisherman who was delighted we had found the place, he wanted to share.

Kerstin kindly walked the dogs whilst J and I ran. Cromane looking across to Dingle.

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At the Kerry Bog Village. The neighbouring pub was offering Irish coffees for EUR6, but we decided we’d make out own using the cooking brandy!

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During the famine, which lasted years, these pots were filled with soup for the starving … often just made with herbs and nettles. Over a million and a half died and a further million emigrated. The population has never recovered to its pre famine 8 million.

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Irish wolfhound.

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I just managed to use the flash as mama bird swooped in to feed her young.

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Just outside Cahersiveen is a monument and short river walk to Daniel O’Connell.

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His birth place is the ruins on the opposite bank. He and his brother were adopted by his wealthy uncle and educated in France and London.

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In Cahersiveen the old Police Station / Military Barracks is now a local museum with a section on Daniel O’Connell.

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Ballycarberry Castle, not open to the public, but a romantic ruin.

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Two ring forts in the drizzle.

Cooncrome harbour – our best night spot.

1097: Valencia Island

Thursday 6th September

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Kerstin’s morning swim followed by a Pilates session. I did offer loan of a wet suit!

James advised us that Valencia Island is the wettest place in Europe. We don’t doubt him. Portmagee had won some tourism award, but we drove through looking for somewhere to park, aborted and reckoned all it had to offer was brightly painted buildings. Just over the bridge on Valencia Island is the Skellig Experience Centre. This covered the history of the monks inhabiting Skellig Michael and carving 3 stairways out of the rock up to the monastery with beehive buildings at the top. We watched a H&S film about how the boat landing, the climb up and down can be fraught … an American died this summer. Boats onto the island were booked up till next week, dogs not allowed and the crossing each way could have taken 1.5 hours … so not for us. We none of us fancied the EUR40 pp boat ride just to sail around the island. Since the island was in a Star Wars film, it has become very popular.

Valencia Island is also where the first Atlantic telegraph cable came ashore. It worked for 12 days, broke and wasn’t fixed till the following year. The Cahersiveen Barracks was built to protect the cable. We felt the area could have made more of the cable, but Skellig Michael over shadowed it.

A short drive up to Bray Head where K and I walked. The views out to the Skellig islands and across the coast were stunning, or would have been, had it been less misty.

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We had a quick look at Knight’s Town, the main town on Valencia, pleasant, but not much there….

… so little, that the tourist information board made much of the loos!

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We overnighted in the car park for the Tetrapod Trackway, only discovered in the 1990’s, these marks were left by the first amphibian 3.5 million years ago.

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Our overnight view – the lighthouse and coast.

1098: Waterville and Derrynane – Best Beaches

Friday 7th September

Given the narrow roads and how small our car park was, we got up and left pretty early. We stopped at Waterville for breakfast and lunch. Really lovely views and the morning light was superb. Well, it was until about 10.30 when the coaches arrived. Fortunately we’d had the cameras out before the ‘trippers’ wreaked the atmosphere. I know we are ‘tourists’ too, but we do not come in multitudes!

Derrynane is the home of Daniel O’Connell, which he inherited from his uncle. A good introductory film about him at the start. J rested, whilst K and I walked the most beautiful beach to Abbey Island and quickly around the house gardens, as the rain came in.

We overnighted in the really heavy rain at the motorhome parking in Sneem … sounds of conkers being thrown on the roof, is NOT conducive to a good night’s sleep! An opportunity to charge everything up and take on water for showers in the morning.

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Waterville.

Charlie Chaplin used to visit.

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Kerstin’s second sea swim. We overheard some people admiring (!) her hardiness! J and I shopped for a woollen Jumper for him … stocking up on warm clothes for our first winter in the UK for 4 years!

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Derrynane House

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Daniel O’Connell was imprisoned for 3 months for organising monster rallies (a million people would come to hear him). On his release he was paraded around Dublin atop this chariot, with his grandchildren dressed in green velvet on the lower tier.

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Abbey island by Derrynane.

Kerstin had a couple of items on her check list of things to do … fish and chips was one of them. And boy, was it good fish and chips.

My fish chowder was pretty good too.

Sadly no music in any of the pubs in Sneem (too few tourists here), but we did have two Irish coffees in two pubs.

1099: Kenmare

Saturday 8th September

K walked the dogs again, whilst J and I ran. Then we all showered. We parked up in Kenmare by the pier and had a wander … Oh and an ice cream in the rain! Kenmare was laid out as a model town by lord Landsdowne, later the British Prime Minister. It had a good feel to it and, whilst full of tourist shops and bars, real people live here. I think we must have touristed ourselves out, as music was on in some bars later, but we had a quiet night in … and I let K beat me for the first time at crib!

1100: Return to Dublin

Sunday 9th September

Another thing on K’s bucket list was a full Irish .. so we had a healthy start to our driving day! We got back to Camac Valley Campsite and erected the awning. We wouldn’t normally bother for one night, but we were entertaining some of J’s family … Delia and Liam, and John who’s over from Chicago. Sadly Amelia didn’t make it.

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More cream James?

1101: Journeys Home

Monday 10th September

Runs and Pilates before taking the awning down. Tom (another brother) and Mary popped over for coffee and kindly drove Kerstin the airport. J and I parked up for the afternoon and early evening in Phoenix Park before heading off to Dublin Port for our 0215 hrs stupid o’clock ferry.

We walked through Phoenix Park to see the Papal Monument where the current Pope recently delivered Mass.

A new type of Disk Lock to stop your vehicle being stolen!

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

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