724-729: Final Antrim Days

724 – Friday 19th May 2017: Dark Hedges & Six Mile Water

A busy morning to make the most of being on a campsite with electricity and services … knowing we had to be off by 12.00, and they drove around to check who was still there!  So J got a much needed hair cut and Jez a sweep out … K a shower and Jez all services done.  A stop at the Dark Hedges included a coffee at the hotel  / golf complex.  And then onto our overnight parking just S of Antrim on Six Mile Water … Jez’ parking fro the next two nights nearby was Seven Mile Straight … a bit of theme going on there.  The reason for this parking was to be near the overnight parking for me to get a flight home.  It was a super quiet spot with information boards about how the river had steamed and clanged to the manufacture and treatment of flax to be used in linen. The walk is called the Mill Trail.   I missed them, but a local dog walker told me there were otter playing.

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The Dark Hedges were 150 beach trees planted by a house owner to impress his neighbours, but only 90 remain.  It is now a public road; fortunately not busy as visitors dart into the middle (us included) to take pix.   The lower branches have been pruned which adds to the intertwining feel.

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725 – Saturday 20th May: K Flies home and J to the Pub

Another walk for O along the river and then we set off, early for us, to our parking for James, Oscar and Jez, whilst I was away.  Now we all do silly things sometimes, and this was one of mine.  J cannot drive Jez at the moment (uninsured as issues with his 70 year old and 3.5+ ton driving license).  I booked my overnight flight home with no thought of how I was to get to the airport with J unable to drop me.  So a very generous local came to my rescue.  I’m a member of the Irish motorhome wild camping forum, Motorhome Craic (they helped us out big time recently with the fridge not running on gas) and I posted asking for any suggestions of where we could park up with public transport links to Belfast airport.  The chap, Ally, who runs Motorhome Craic, instantly said we could park over at his … only a few mins from the airport.  He runs a caravan storage and has lots of space.  An absolute result.  We arrived at 9.30, my taxi arrive late, but it did arrive and I headed off to Gatwick.  James was told about the local pub and he headed off there … it was dog friendly and Oscar was the star of the show AND there was live music playing all afternoon … J only left as he had to give Oscar his dog’s dinner.  

My dinner was with the ‘Girls’ and families in Chiswick to celebrate Gill’s birthday.  Only Bron knew I was attending and as I’d had a motorway closure en route, I arrived late and made the big surprise entrance.  Really lovely to be able to chat to the girls, as I’d been too busy at J’s 70th birthday party for more than a passing word.

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726 – Sunday 21st May:  Maddy Munchkin Day

Knowing Maddy is NOT an early riser, I had time to rung amongst some of our ‘stuff’ stored in the Aged P’s attic.  They are in France at the moment, and again, I was able to use and abuse the house! Don’t tell them, but I actually put the heating and water on so I could have a shower!  I’ve made an inventory of our guide books, so I know what to order for the coming summer and the big Balkans trip starting in October, and I found some of the maps I wanted.  I returned the house keys to Clare and grabbed a coffee … Louis is now driving!

Maddy and I had an indifferent pub lunch and then went bra shopping … how is it daughter’s always manage to come away with something???  A late flight back and taxi to join James and Oscar … James had lunched at the pub too today … but no live music.

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Sporting a new fringe, but she really does look more like David than I.

727 -Monday 22nd May:  The 9 Glens of Antrim

A slow and wet start to the day.  And we headed off to Whitehead to do some motorhome services … the water should have cost £1, but the receptionist told us to use the other free hose, nice of her.

We plan to potter around the 9 Glens of Antrim for the next couple of days until our ferry on Thursday 25th.  We stopped at the Glenarm TIC and avery helpful chap issued leaflets and gave advice on where to park Jez, even showing us exactly on the pix on his phone.  We did the red squirrel Walk in Glenarm Forest.  The TIC chap told us that the fish sculpture had been stolen and has been spotted sporting new white paint in someone’s garden.  He’d reported it to the Police who said they could not do anything as it had not been notified missing.  So he’d had to go to the council and get them to report is stolen!  An easy 3.5 km walk through trees and along a river.  The bluebells and wild garlic are just coming to an end.

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We didn’t see any squirrels other than the one J is leaning on.

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Glenarm Harbour where we overnighted.

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Spotted in our car park.  A wedding ceremony ritual?  Chap and bride to be arrived in the back of the flatbed with horn honking …. only to be covered in flour, eggs and ketchup!

 

728 – Tuesday 23rd:  Laragh Lodge & Glenarrif Waterfall Walk

We stopped at a lay-by on the way up to Glenariff to walk up to the Hidden Village – another recommendation by the chap at the Glenarm TIC.  The Village has long been deserted, bar one house that obviously collects its water in a water butt.  What a fabulous location.

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We parked at Laragh Lodge, a cafe / restaurant … another top recommendation, to save paying the £5 per car at the main car park … not sure what Jez would’ve been.  Over lunch we got chatting to the owner … we could stay as long as we liked … he even offered us a hook up.  We ended up having both lunch and supper there … fabulous sea bass with asparagus and a couple of very strong Irish coffees.  During the afternoon we did the waterfall walk.  We reckon this is possibly the best non coastal walk we’ve ever done in Ireland.  Just stunning, especially this time of year.  Progress was slow as I kept stopping to take pix!  And at the end we got a view of the sea.  This area of Antrim is just stunning, but is overshadowed by the well known Rope Bridge and Giants Causeway.  Incidentally, one muppet (being polite) has tried to cut the cable of the rope bridge and the National Trust has had to close it losing a lot of revenue!

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729 – Wednesday 24th:  The Scenic Trail

A longer walk this morning from our Laragh Lodge parking.  This took us steeply up the opposite hill, around the head of the valley and down the waterfall Walk.

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Spot the Belle amongst the bells!

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Coffee and Cake? … possibly.

We reluctantly returned southwards towards Belfast as we would happily have stayed on a Laragh Lodge and walked for the next few days.  A stupid o’clock ferry the next morning at 0330hrs … i must’ve been on an economy drive when I booked that one!  We returned again to a council run aire by a golf course and showered and refilled water etc.  Antrim is most definitely on our ‘must return to’ list.

 

718-723: Amazing Antrim

718 – Saturday 13th May 2017:  The Point of Magilligan

We arrived at Magilligan Point for our next wild camping – narrow space to reverse the van – oops!  We just clipped the pub guttering – the kind workman nearby said he would repair it – human kindness, again…

Beach walk – almost deserted – cold wind – O was happy with his usual stick…  Military firing range inland and a Martello Tower – we really did keep Napoleon out!   Pub supper booked at 7:00 … table ready at 7.40 – just had to have a second bottle.  Doesn’t it just irritate you when you point out they’ve left at £15 bottle of wine off the bill and no-one has the grace to say thank you much for pointing it out to them!    But we did manage to watch some of Eurowiddle  Song Contest on tv – winners – Portugal – we raised a glass to them!  Obrigado!

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My boys playing.

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The Napoleonic Matello Tower 1812.

719 – Sunday 14th May:   All Downhill at the National Trust 

A run in the morning…..   Drove to the Downhill National Trust Estate.  Walk along by dovecot, Mussenden Temple, to Castlerock, and back via Hazlett House (beam structure and same family for centuries) and then Downend House.  The builder, the ‘Earl Bishop’ was very wealthy and liked his mistresses (many), including the mistress of Frederick William of Prussia and Emma Hamilton, mistress of Nelson … they were a busy ladies, and he was a busy man.  Shame about his wife, they became estranged, once they had bred a number of offspring.

The Earl Bishop was the Bishop of Derry  – the most lucrative Irish living given to him by his brother, the Lord Leieutenant of Ireland.  The Lord L. promptly died and the Bishop became the  Earl of Bristol, inheriting the Ickworth Estate in Suffolk.  Yet more money.  Having fallen out with his sone and heir, he left Downed left to his cousin, who had acted as Steward who looked after it … in their family for years.  He sounded a most colourful character.  King George III called him ‘that wicked prelate’.

Ali the coffee stall man at the carpark was a character and we chatted to a couple who came to see him from Derry – they had 3 springers and Oscar was much admired … again! We spent a peaceful but wet night snug in our Jezacarr. 

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So much colour with the wild flowers.

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The dovecot with the ice house under.  The Earl Bishop spared no expense on his estate.  But he spent in the district to support the locals with employment.  

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View from the Temple.

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Mussenden temple clinging to the cliff edge.  Built by the Bishop to house his library and his books.  A fire was lit in the basement to keep the books (not his mistress!) warm.  He was for acceptance of all religions and allowed Catholics to have a Mass in the basement.  My sister Clare will attend a wedding here, but not until August 2018 … hopefully it won’t have fallen off the cliff by then!

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We debated descending on a minor detour to the lake, built for leisure and to supply the big house with fish.  We were so pleased we did.  It proved to be the highlight … bluebells and wild garlic amongst mossy stones and trees … a heady mix of colour and scent.

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We continued along the coastal path to Castlerock.  The railway in bottom follows the coast to Derry … for another SUNNY day.

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The big house … built in 1774, burned down in 1851, rebuilt in 1876 and abandoned after WW1 – the farmer who owned it had to remove the roof to avoid property tax and it fell into complete disrepair.

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720 – Monday 15th May:  Mount Sandel-rain

AM – K walked Oscar in pouring rain – wet through to her underwear!  Rainy Coleraine beckoned for mega shopping … B&Q, Pets at Home, Lidl and Saninburys … whew.  But K delighted to purchase preserved lemon, she’s seen a recipe somewhere!  Walked around Mount Sandel-fort – the rain has brought the vegetation on hugely – immense shades of green….  A nice lady recommended beach walk at Portstewart just along the coast.   Our overnight was by the river with a Victorian salmon leap.

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View from the Fort of the carpark on the opposite bank where we overnighted.

721 – Tuesday 16th May:  Rain Delayed Play Portstewart

K and O walked early in the nearby woods. K phoned the TIC for Jezparking – parked close to town and beach. Town, promenade walk – coffee – and – guess what?  Another lovely beachwalk!  Following the end of the NorthWest 200 motorbike races, the hospitality tents and fencing were being removed.  It is obviously quite an event.

Whilst at Camac Valley in Dublin, a lady had recommended a campsite in Bushmills –  our next location – (not just for the whiskey). The site is Ballyness and is a real gem – manicured and whitewashed with immaculate lawns and pitches!  Great music playing in the sanitary block, including Tom Jones and Abba … great to dance in the shower to!  Oh, and underfloor heating!  BBQ in the evening – not fire log though as too many people around… 

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Portstewart.

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Easy walking around the bottom of cliff….

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… and then you arrive at …. this!

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 We drove on along the coast stopping at a view point of Dunluce Castle.

722 – Wednesday 17th May: Show us your Bush

I ran early from our pitch – I’ve been trying to practice slower running to build stamina before speedework – and it is working. K did her Pilates. I did my regular Khairdying and it was a success, thankfully. K:  so thankful to loose the skunk stripe in the middle of my head!  We walked to the town for the distillery (oldest in the world) tour – a bit disappointing with some lack of detail, family background, etc. But, we both tasted – and I drank my old favourite – Black Bush!  At least the distillery is still producing, unlike Jamesons and Smihwicks.   In fact, it was bought by a Mexican Tecilla company and the plans are to double production.  Town walk with lots of boarded up shops.  We stopped at a bar for another glass  .. very limited choice, so K chose port, having spied a bottle lurking in the corner … think the barman may have wanted to get rid of the bottle as it was huge! 

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723 – Thursday 18th May: Causeway Rambler

An early bus to the Carrick a Rede rope bridge. Suspended 100 feet above the gorge – I went first and almost turned back when I saw the sheer drop – narrow rope bridge – trying not to think of “Galloping Gerty”as I crossed gingerly!   A quick look at the island and back to the mainland – scariest thing I have done for yonks!  K breezed it, naturally.  She saw the Kittiwakes nesting.  So many tourists there, Asian and American mostly.  We must have been asked about 20 times if ) had crossed the bridge … no not allowed and he would not have liked it anyway!  The Giants Causeway is Northern Ireland’s most visited tourist attraction – no wonder!  Read Oscar’s report below – I won’t steal his thunder…

Walked for 2 hours to White Park Bay – fabulous rock formations and slippery seaweed….  I photographed a very ‘nimble” cumulous. Then the Causeway Rambler bust to the Giant’s Causeway … when asked where to by the driver, K instantly responded Cribs Causeway … a shopping mecca in Bristol! Again so many people here.  A little know fact is that the National Trust try to get you to walk through their multi million pond visitor centre and charge £5.50 for the privilege, but the actual Causeway is owned by ??? Heritage and is free … just go through the arch!  Sneakily there are signs up stung your ticket will be checked on exit … by whom exactly?

A quick pub visit and then – bus home via Causeway Rambler. Oscar was knackered and I wasn’t far behind – another BBQ and the end of another great day out. Due to pressure of booking , we had to move pitches to the lakeside – with swans and ducks…. 

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Everything today was determined to be stunningly beautiful.

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The bridge was built every summer for local salmon fisherman who stretched nets from the point of the island.

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Look – no hands!

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No apologies – so many pix.

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People atop this one.

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The shack was once a Youth Hostel on White Park Bay, but had to shut due to vandalism :(.  Would have been an amazing place to stay.  But with Jez we’ve no need of it’s like.

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Giant’s Causeway.  National Trust at the top would charge you £10.50 to walk through their visitor centre, but you can avoid this and walk freely, as the actual site is managed by ?? Heritage.  The most visited attraction in Northern Ireland … and everyone was here!  I’d been told I would find it disappointing … but I didn’t … just wish fewer people.


Oscar’s Diary

Hi there – avid readers – all 9 of you – but, who’s counting?  Now my owners ( beautiful people – for Muggles – Potterspeak, again) – like innov8. They call it “CPD” -“Contiguous Processional Devilment”!    Sometimes it works and other times – well, let’s say – it’s a good effort.  They have given me “Kongs” – a basic ball filled with frozen sardines… They forgot to measure the circumference of my tongue!  I cannot get the little feckers out – so they spoon it for me – why not put the nice fisywishys on a plate, for heavens sake!   

They took me to this place called “The Giants Pawsway” – well, the Giant’s dog had huge paws to walk  all the way to Scotland on the giant rocks… No facilities for dogs – why?  20 people stopped to ask if I had crossed the Bridge – many Oriental folk got me to pose for photos – obviously for the Hong Kong Spaniel Corporation!   With all this wet weather – at least K and J are letting my fur grow.

But no more sardyKongs, please? 

They tell me I will see Boppy and Poo soon – Yippee!  And of course Shags and Mags, too… Maybe Kensey also in the summer – I am a truly pampered pooch – life is good here at Jez Holiday Home…

Hidey Ho, then for now….

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707-717: Fridge Flights of Fancy

707-710 – 2nd-5th May 2017:  Kilkenny

We found a friendly campsite on the River Nore outside Kilkenny – Dan’s the man there – 30 minutes walk to the city.  I hadn’t been here for 40 years and explored the Cathedral, music (Irish traditional),  Smithwicks brewery – tasting too. We were so taken by Kilkenny – we stayed for 4 days instead of 2! 

A little history …. Kilkenny is a city.  The smallest in Ireland and apparently locals are a little sensitive if you call it a town!  It was the unofficial capital of ireland in the Middle Ages.

Back to Camac Valley Campsite on 5th – for early start for moi on 6th.

 

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View as we walked into Kilkenny.

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Coffee stop in one of the narrow streets full of bars and eateries.

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 Roathe House – Ireland’s best surviving example of C16 Merchant’s house.  now a museum.

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Inside St Canice’s Cathedral.  The second largest medieval cathedral in ireland.  It was defaced by Cromwell who used it to store horses and troops.  Alice Kyteler’s (more anon) brother saved himself by paying for a lead roof … it proved too heavy and collapsed.  Kilkenny is also known as the marble city as much of it was built using local black marble.  Well, it looks grey until polished.  The church is home to a fine collection of floor grave slabs and Medieval tombs when life sized effigies of the interred were carved.  J paid to go in, whistle I sat outside with Oscar.  When I went to pay, I was told J had spent so little time, I could go free.  Nice.  

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This grave slab is thought to be the father of Alice.  I know the song “Who the F is Alice” comes to mind!  The story of Alice is that she was widowed 4 times and all to wealthy men.  Perhaps it was jealousy but she was convicted of being a witch and condemned to death.  English nobility who were friends smuggled her away to London where she was not heard of again.  Her poor maid, Petronella, was burned at the stake in her stead!

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Effigies of Piers and Margaret Butler 1539 – The Butler family owned the castle from 1391 until 1935. 

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Stone chair of St Keiran embedded in the wall from C13.  In the C5th, he is said to have visited Kilkenny and challenged the Chieftains to accept the Christian faith.

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A boozy long lunch at Kyteler’s Inn, where the with Alice was born.  A superb rambling building….

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… We returned the next night for more food and music.

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I asked Dan the Man of the campsite if we could cycle along the river to Bennetsbridge … No, path not suitable and about 15 stiles, but he offered to give us a lift up there so we could walk back.  He dropped us at the old flour mill that is now a working pottery … some lovely patterns but not for us at EUR24 for a mug!

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One of the 28 man made obstacles along the river walk … not a mere 15!  So pleased we’d asked if it was suitable for bikes!

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We’ve seen a few derelict mills.  It was a 9km walk where we did not see another sole … just lovely.

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The Smithwick brewery tour was quite interactive – these portraits of Smithwick’s talked to us … Harry Potter-esque.  In 1710 the first brewer, a Catholic, was forbidden to own a business, so he had a Protestant sleeping partner.  It was centuries before he bought the business outright.  When Smithwick sales out stripped Guinness, it was sold to Guinness in the 1960’s.  More recently Budweiser was brewed here, but now nothing.  Sad that it is just a tourist attraction after centuries of brewing.  It was the same story at Jameson’s – the original distilleries are too small and inefficient.

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J had a ‘senior paddle’ to taste Smithwick’s ale, pale ale and the new Blonde.  I managed to ‘lift’ the shapely pale ale glass … naughty but Kerstin would be proud.

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The Black Abbey, dissolved by Henry V111, and turned into a courthouse.  Roofless post Cromwell and then restored in 1866.  I admired this window to a local chap working inside … The traceries (stonework) date back to C12.  The glass was designed by a German Jew who was killed in WW2 and all the plans went with him.

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St Mary’s Cathedral C19, but some wonderful mosaics inside.

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In the Castle Grounds, where Prince Charles has just been photographed with a sliothar and hurley (hurling ball and stick to me!) and was in the papers.

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The bag contains some Donegal wool … I am a knitting maniac now!  And two picture frames we had converted to Perspex so they won’t shatter if they fall off the wall.  This pic is a shop in Tralee, named J Clune.  A friend of Delia’s had spotted it in an antique’s market and give it to J at his Dublin birthday bash.  It has pride of place … above the bog!  Actually the only bit of wall large enough ..

711- 713 – 6th-8th May:  Medical for James and Fridge

OK readers – what’s considered an early start?  Howsabout 2:30 am???  Flight at 6:00 am – walk to bus at 3:15!  I was so earlybird that on my walk – the Saturday night party at the Green Isle Hotel was still in full swing… A ‘domestic’ going on outside – “Pleeze don’t leave me” from husband as wife walked to car?  Gatwick at 8:00 – and Ash Vale for sleep…..  Trip was for the medical to get my over-70 driving license for Jez.   Wonderful opportunity to have supper with Sinead and Shane in London – on the South Bank – memorable meal.  I was pushing out Zzzzs at 9:00 pm.

Monday – all complete by 10:00 am and back to Gatwick to complete the whirlwind journey. In the meantime, K had been cleaning, had coffee with sister-in-law Amelia and investigating a repair for our fridge – not looking good so far…  K:  Perhaps I should not read forums so much … both the ones I use had suggested that since the fridge vents had been cleaned by our supplying dealer mid April, it was likely to be dirty gas, blocking pipes and destroying regulators.  I drove to a reluctant (difficult to get him to agree to look at Jez) motorhome dealer outside Dublin.  He was at pains to be alarmist and explain all the dire consequences of dirty gas to every part of our gas system and said he would not touch our van due to the later issues that could crop up.  Cripes!  Someone on Motorhome Craic forum suggested we try Leisure Technical Services in the North … he could see us on not until Thursday.  Feeling low with a sense of doom and £ signs in form of my eyes!  

714 – Tuesday 9th May:  Dogheda Not

K here:  I telephoned the Tourist information to find out where we could park Jez.  On arrival the carpark had a height barrier.  Back on the phone … the second suggestion also had a height barrier.  So we aborted and headed for the coast as I had seen a wild parking spot there.  We parked up outside yet another car park’s height barrier and I joined a local couple for a dog walk.  As we passed a small area of statics, the gent (and he was a gent) asked a local where J and I could park up for the night … Tom, as he introduced himself offered to let us stay at the end of the statics’s strip … but we sailed slightly past the the end of the road and parked up just outside the now demolished fisheries.  We really ought to have been on electric for the F/F, but with two ice packs and a frozen water bottled … fingers crossed I would not have to do a massive defrosted cook off.  And this area was too lovely to pass up.  J joined me on another walk (lucky Oscar) and we found the long beach round the head.  We were only disturbed by a few walkers, birds and some passing freight ships and yachts.  Idyllic.  

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How about this for a peaceful spot.

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 Passing traffic!

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Maiden’s Tower and Maiden’s Finger (yes all it needs is a couple of boulders at it’s base to be another part of anatomy!).  The local couple told the tale that the women folk would watch for the return of their fishermen from the told of the tower.  Our heroine understood from the flags on the fishing ships that her man had perished.  in anguish she jumped from the top of the tower to her death, leaving a finger caught in the stone wall.  

715 – Wednesday 10th May: Dogheda Yes and MK’s

A further phone call to the Tourist Information and the good lady had been doing her homework for us, identified a surface carpark with no height barrier.  Drogheda, here we come.  Now the good folk of Drogheda were not big fans of Oliver Cromwell in the 1600s – he captured the town and slaughtered 2,000 inhabitants.  Not sure why but the Irish seem to think that the Brits totally love Cromwell, I know he established Parliament, but he was quite brutal.  Today, its a commuter town for Dublin 30 miles to the south.  It is a pleasant town … not architecturally stunning but the history is interesting.  It also has not one, but two St Peter’s Churches.  

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St Lawrence’s Gate C13:  Dogheda was one of Irelands largest 4 walled towns in min C15.  This is pretty much all that remains.  The guide books tells me that it is in fact a Barbican, a fortified structure to defend the gate.

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Magdalene Tower – the bell tower from a C13 friary.  King Richard II accepted the submission of the Gaelic chiefs in 1395.  Peace only lasted a few months.  And it looks like this spindly structure should not have lasted as long as it has.

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Cadaverous Medieval wall tomb (not James!!!)  in the graveyard of the Catholic St Peter’s Chuch.  It was in this church that Cromwell burned the spire, killing 100 people who had taken sanctuary inside.  

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The Catholic St Peter’s houses the head of Saint Oliver Plunkett … Archbishop who refused to leave his people but then his head left his body in London in 1681! 

My Goddaughter and niece Mary-Kate lives near Banbridge and she, Michael, Daniel and baby Amelia welcomed us into their home and provided the driveway for Jez and our sleepover. Wonderful meal by K and lots of family chats during a top evening…

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A gorgeous pic of Mary Kate and the baby.  Sadly Daniel was not up before we left.  But he helped with the cooking, played with bubbles in the washing up sink and I read him a few stories.

716 – Thursday 11th May:  Leisure Technical Services Trumps All

Our next shot at fridge repairs was LTS near Banbridge (Dromore) – and they came up trumps (not the ‘Donald’ kind, thankfully… ). They quickly identified that the gas was getting to the fridge burner, so all this talk of dirty LPG was misleading.  A part removed, showed signs of a burn out at the back.  Tomorrow, they may have the part – so a campsite with electric hookup for the freezer at nearby  Oxford island on Lough Neagh was the overnight for us.  Fabulous walking around the largest freshwater lake in the British Isles . BBQ in the evening after warm sunshine – sitting out in the heat – Oscar and I used sun lotion!   We could easily spend a week exploring this area of Northern Ireland – another time, definitely.  K:  I should mention that the camping gave us a 10% discount for the cafe… was that another full Irish James?  

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A wildlife haven, so lots of hides.

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Our walk was through wild flower meadows and different woodlands.  When we texted Mary kate to tell her where we were staying, she replied with OMG – that is our favourite place.  We can see why.

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717 – Friday 12th May:  Fridge Fixed and Wilding Again

Excellent spot for running – K back to running after a hamstring problem.  A slow breakfast and a walk in the best park in the area – Lurgan.   LTS fixed the fridge – and seriously debunked the myth about ‘dirty’ gas – but filters fitted to our tanks, for extra care.  And LTS will process the warranty claim for the fridge part and the filters and fitting only cost us £100.  A superb result.  

At last – a return to ‘wild’ camping – where?  The top of a mountain in the Sperrin range – called Eagle Rock. Remote, no phone or internet signal – gorgeous views – until the heavy mist and rain surrounded us!  Almost Harry Potter-esque spooky – the ‘forbidden forest’ – and Hagrid’s cottage could be around the corner. You can tell we’ve been listening to the audio books while driving – excellent tales!!!  Soooo quiet here……

In the morning, we will travel to Magilligan Point for more ‘wilding’ and sea walking – possibly better weather – but we have all the wet gear we need.

A good life?  “The Good Life”, indeed…..

 

 

 

 

 

 

698-706: BIG Number Birthday in Dublin

698-706- Monday 23rd April – Monday 1st May 2017:  Dublin And Family

A bit of a summary as we’ve not been blogging!

Ferry from Rosslare – we were a rather late arrival – bow doors opened as if by magic. Next morning, K collected hire car using the nearby Airport hopper bus.  On my actual birthday, we drove to Enniskerry and I had a fantastic full Irish breakfast (first on over 6 months) in the local hotel (where I was barred for too much drinking as a camping young adult) and then walked the Scalp hill/mountain and  collected Kerstin from the airport – then straight to a pub in Bray pub with some family – a good night was had by all…….

Next day (Thursday), we did a walking tour of Dublin city. Kerstin and I toured the Jameson distillery – and tasted their produce – a few times! She liked it with lime and ginger…  The Brazen Head welcomed us for lunch with an outside heater!

Another magic day in Baile Atha Cliath…my spiritual home.

Friday – Kerstin went alone to Dublin sightseeing – we stayed by the van and did some jobs – K cooking. Kerstin enjoyed herself so much that she was quite late back – and she is always ‘laid back’!

The excitement is mounting – for the second big party tonight – 70 is only a small number, isn’t it?  Collected salmon from Clondalkin and then to the party house (Delia and Liam’s) in Cabinteely. Food prepping and Oscarwalking… Huge surprise when Sinead and Shane arrived – with Sarah!!!  Out of the blue, completely!   My first ever girlfriend at age 13 – Mary Garrihy (King) travelled all the way from Ennis to be here – we last met 30 years ago but always keep in touch for birthdays.  Blind wine tasting organised by K and K – much mirth ensued.  Not too late to bed – in our Jez on the roadway outside. Oscar was bemused at so many people in our gathering – but huge thanks to everyone for coming along…

Sunday, we cleaned the house – and Liam discovered our Karcher window/surface cleaning tool – we decided to buy one for them as a thank you gift – he’s been cleaning windows ever since – Delia is happy. There’s an old song – “When I’m Cleaning Windows” – Music Hall history.  Back to Camac Valley campsite – and suitably tired – a nanny nap for all, including K9…..  Supper – Bed later for J – K and K stayed up until 2:00 am – playing cards and working their way through wine and Grand Marnier – and my birthday chocolates!!!  K:  We did score them so he knew exactly what he’d missed … we saved him the one we neither of us fancied too!

Monday early – K brought K to airport and returned our hire car. A chilled afternoon.

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It might be expensive at EUR27 but Camac Valley Campsite is our Dublin home with large fully serviced pitches.

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James’ actual birthDAY and started with a full Irish!  Or English or Scottish!

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A birthday walk around the Scalp – so named due to the rocks and gorge.

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Yes we are on the right path.

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I knew about the Sugar Loaf mountain (every country seems to have one), but here there are the Great and Little Sugar Loafs and also a wee Sugarlump!

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Meeting up with some of the family in the evening..

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Kerstin working her way through different beers.

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A walking day out with Kerstin around Dublin.  The President’s Palace is in Phoenix Park and we saw the cavalcade.

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Kerstin was unimpressed with the sheer number of ‘original and best’ tour busses.  She has a thing against the little tourist trains too.  Funnily enough the next day she used the hop on hop off bus which transported her from the campsite and as no-one asked for any money, she managed to get a free tour!

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Kerstin and James toured the Jameson’s Distillery … although no distilling is still done here, they enjoyed the tasting.  They were given Jamesons, Johnnie Walker Black Label and Jack Daniels to compare.  A revelation to J – he has always been fond of Black Label, but reckoned Jamesons came out top.

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Kerstin decided the best way to drink it was with ginger ale and lime.  Meanwhile … I was freezing my butt off in a outside cafe next-door!

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Lunch to warm us up at the well known ancient Brazen Head Inn.

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Again outside … Oscar, what we suffer for you!  And you get your own glass!  But they did put the heater on for us and made a fuss of Oscar.

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Are we lost?  And still cold?

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Temple Bar area with their inflated prices.IMG 8098

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James’ 70th BIG number birthday party in Dublin was held in sister Delia and hubby Liam’s house.  We did a blind wine tasting.  Kerstin placed a sign over the sink!

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And she wrapped and labelled all the bottles … I could not have coped without her.

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A gift from Stephen and Diedre – S had come across the photo from Tralee in Kerry.  You can just make out the J Clune over the door.  We’ve replaced the glass with perspex, just in case it does fall off the wall!

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J’s niece, Mary-Kate supplied the most amazing cake … it had a motorhome and a map of Europe on it – with red dots to show where we have travelled  so far.  Sorry not a large image as my camera died.  Not sure if J is about to praise it, pontificate or weigh it!

432-436: Last Days in Donegal

432 – Saturday 30th July 2016:  A very Important Game

We filled our water containers and emptied the toilet in the very convenient public toilets and wandered up the road the the regular Saturday local market int he village hall.  A bit of knitting, some local slate products, a stall of local fruit and veg and a lot of cakes.  I picked up red onions and a lettuce … J picked up a carrot cake!  The healthy and unhealthy!  But we will share :).

J was keen to watch the Donegal and West Meath GAA Gaelic Football  All Ireland quarter final, so we were looking for a pub.  We headed into Dungloe, which had its Mary of Dungloe festival – they select a local lass to be the Mary (a bit of a beauty pageant) and lots of bands in bars.  Limited parking, so we ended up adjacent to the fun fair … concerned that we might get a bit stuck there come 2.00 p.m. when the fair opened.  A quick wander into the town and then, it not grabbing us, we left and headed for the hills.

We had a pub in mind, but the small village was host to a cycling event so the pub wasn’t showing the football.  We did drive along the finish line with crowds either side of us … slightly embarrassed to be there, but tempted to give a few royal bows and waves, we extracted ourselves.  We continued into the Glenveagh National Park – some stark hills making the scenery interesting – at the visitor centre I was told about The Lagoon, back out of the Park, but it would definitely be showing the game.  So back we went.  A large pub with a lounge and local’s snug; we went into the snug.  Since the barman said we could park overnight in the car park, we forced down a couple of ciders.  Back to the van for a J nanny nap and then back into the pub for supper.  Very traditional pub menu – so much deep fat fried that one set of foreign tourists arrived, read the menu and left. However, the fish and chips and spicy deep fried chicken fillets were all well cooked.  An elderly couple had a quick chat … in very strong local accents … he was 80+ and had missed the game as he had been at work – labouring!!  A couple of bottles of the quaffable single choice of red wine (i.e. no choice at all … red or white) and we slept really well!

 

433 – Sunday 31st July 2016: Erigol the Terigol

We thanked the pub and I asked where I could find a post box in the neighbouring shop, which sold everything from ice creams to grass seed and tins of beans to fertiliser.  Post box a few miles up the road, but the shop owner offered to post my postcards with his post tomorrow … nice people in this neck of the woods.

Back into Glenveagh National Park and we parked by the already full car park by Mount Eribol.  On paper, it does not sound like a difficult climb – being only 751 m high and the 76th tallest in Ireland.  Erigol the Terigol gets its name due the the initial clamber across and in muddy wet bog.  The steep ascent is then over scree to the top – some hands and knees.  Nearing the top, the heavens opened and the mists descended so we could only see about 2ft in front.  Fortunately, we’d seen some of the views of the other peaks and the coast on the way up.  I was relieved to have my walking poles for the descent, supporting my dodgy knee and giving me some balance as we slid down the screes … J went down 3 times, and we watched a couple where he went down, then she did, and then they did synchronised bog diving!  A ‘cool’ mum was making her 9th climb up Erigol and her young son’s 5th.  Another chap at the summit, had climbed the highest peak in 30 of the 32 Provinces of all of Ireland in 2.5 years.

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The on road car parking got busier every time we looked back … this is definitely on the way up as my poles are in the back pack and J does not yet have a soggy bottom!

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It might not look much, but it was possibly the steepest climb we’ve ever done.

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Some of the views before the rain and mist came in.

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You can just make out the coast.

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The summit.

When we got back to the van and changed, we had a slight issue with Chardonnay.  She sort of started and then fizzled … no power at all though.  OK, so we have European motor insurance.  Oops – no phone signal.  J got a lift down towards the next town where he could ring the insurers and then a local garage rang him back – about an hour and half before they could attend to us.  J then had to walk the 2 miles back up the road to me, as I’d stayed in Chard … no-one hitches or picks up hitchers now :(.  A chap arrived from the garage where J had rung from … doing a favour for a mate further away.  He got us going – I had to drive in second gear, revving at 3000 rpm back down to his garage in order to clear the diesel particulate filter.  A common problem with these Fiat Duacto motorhomes … they engines are designed for white van man gunning the engine, which clears the filter.  We’d been nursing the engine for improved fuel consumption and only been doing easy slow short hops.  We now know that we need to regularly do 30 mins + where we get the engine hot.

We drove a short distance back to the coast to near Rinnageeragh and found a fabulous car park amongst the dunes over looking another white sandy beach … oh yay!  A quick walk on it and we read the plaque about 4 young girls having be drowned here in ’72.  A local confirmed that the beach here is treacherous due the the undertow, but that it was a good walk along the coast to several small bays and a long sandy beach … these were OK for swimming.  That’s tomorrow’s plan then!

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434 – Monday 1st August 2016:  Walk, Bays and Beach BBQ … Phone Call!

Having slow start, as we planned to stay a second night, I did pilates amongst the dunes.  We walked along coast trying to identify the little used path, which was quite fun, passing lovely white sand bays and beaches.  We made is as far as the Carrickfinn Beach, busy with life guards.  It got even busier when about a thousand teenagers arrived from one of the summer Gaelic language schools with their tannoy!  We wandered back the way we’d come, stopping at one of the bays for some still cool beers and a swim (minus wetsuit) for K.

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A bit of a clamber up from the beach to get around the headland.

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Mountain Goat – made it!

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Mount Erigol in the background – looking pretty tame, but we know better!

I’d previously checked with a life guard – it is allowed to have BBQs on the beaches … so that’s what we did.  We carried down the BBQ, table and chairs, as well as all the necessary.  A fab location and one of those memorable events.  It became even more memorable when I took a call from the London and Surrey Welsh Springer Rescue organiser.  We’d discounted having a dog as it would be inconvenient, expensive and would limit what we could do and where we could go.  But we’ve seen a LOT of motorhomers with their faithful hounds, some really quite large dogs in not so large vans.  It felt like a gap in our lives.  So I’d just picked up the phone and rung the rescue organiser before I could rationalise against doing so – only about 3 days ago.  The conversation had gone along the lines:  There is a massive waiting list for them.  

  • I know, I’ve had one before.  
  • Where did the previous dog come from?  
  • Tina Smith. 
  • I know her and she’s really strict about who can have her dogs.  Y
  • es, my last was one of her not so good gun dogs … I did a bit of training with him with Julie Reville.  
  • Yes, she’s retired now.  

This call was to say that there was a 2.5 year old dog in Solihull – could we pick him up from there?  Of course!  The West Mids organiser would ring us tomorrow morning!  Somehow the Tcall had ticked all the boxes and `i’d pretty much gone to the top of the UK waiting list!

We opened another bottle by way of celebration and stuck a fire log on.  What a simply fabulous day!

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435 – Tuesday 2nd August 2016: Decision Made – Head for Home

Several phone calls later … we’d changed our return crossing from Belfast to Cairryan to …. tomorrow.  Whilst the current owner would have kept Oscar until the 18th, when we would’ve picked him up, she had two male dogs who’d were going at each other hammer and tongs and we just wanted to get him!  We packed up and flitted across to Belfast.  We will just have to come back to this part of Ireland to finish off the coast next year.  I put our Stendhal Festival music tickets up for first come first serve on the Motorhome Craic forum and even managed to get them posted that night.  We overnighted at a free motorhome aire in Bentra Grill, as the Carrickfergus service point was faulty.  A really quiet night too.  

 

436 – Wednesday 3rd August 2016:  Belfast – Cairnryan – Solihull

Up with the lark for a 7.30 crossing.  Nothing to report other than we drove all day and made it to a great free parking by a reservoir near Solihull – dog pick up destination!

429-431: Donegal Coastline and Dodging Showers

429 – Wednesday 27th July 2016:  Carpet Bagging Fish

Roving reporter tonight – James:

Overnighting last night?  And course the readers will know of “Lusty Beg”? Now we say ‘readers’ because we know there are at least 2 – Amelia being our reader and roving reporter based at Killiney Beach – and Mary Kate reporting from Banbridge assisted by Michael and Daniel (of the new fashionable first ever haircut…).  Anyway, getting back to Busty Leg (oops, Chardonnay is not really busty – or busting a leg…). A stunning (that word again) small ferry crossing to a major party venue (conferences and weddings) – we declined to party there and settled for our own Chardyparty…  We woke to heavy downpours 😦  No run and a damp enthusiasm.

Donegal Carpets have graced the Ambassadorial residences of countries around the globe, prestigious hotels, wealthy houses, Buckingham Palace and – “Aras an Uachtarain” – the official residence of the President of Ireland. Very sadly, this may be coming to an end… But on with our story…

I had a little prior knowledge of the Donegal Carpets business – Katherine had not really heard of them. So we journeyed to Killybegs town to find parking for our friendly beauty – Katherine! (Actually, I could be in a spot of bother here, so don’t tell her – she doesn’t weigh 4 tonnes – she’s a mere slip of a girl…). Anyway Chardonnay proved difficult to park (she’s not a difficult lass – neither is K (he quickly and diplomatically added…).  K wandered across the road to the local TIC – and the nice chap offered to have us parked just off the main street right behind his office!  He obviously spotted our 2 beauties – Chard and K!  

Armed with maps and lots of useful information, we strolled up to the carpet factory/museum. As always the staff were friendly, professional and very well informed. Started by a Scot in 1857, it grew quickly (4 factories initially) – 3 closed after 10-30 years leaving Killybegs only. The photos show the immense skill and detail involved – every single carpet over 150 years was unique and completely to the owners individual design. K did some weaving and knotting of a carpet in progress…see photos – I was cameraman of the day. The wool for the weaving could only come from the local black-faced sheep – clearly, the sheep facial expression came out on the designs! 

The competition from synthetic and mass produced carpets has taken its toll and the last carpet was weaved 3 years ago – with no present orders…

We can only hope that somehow this lovely piece of local industry and history can continue – who would like to buy a nice carpet factory?

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The longest loom in the world.

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1920’s pic all knotting away.  The minimum requirement was 350 knots per minute, but some got up to over 600!

Our wild camping for the night was at Teelin Pier – another lovely quiet harbour – lots of activities during the evening – kids rowing classes, boat trips, fishing… and another gem from our neighbouring fisher folk. K perambulated to chat with some fishermen – and came back with 2 large mackerel – free gratis!  Supper was the freshest of fresh Donegal sea produce.  Later, our Katherine came upon a couple of Latvian/Lithuanian fishermen – conversing in Russian – K’s Russian is a little rusty – like “2 large vodkas please” – she somehow came away with some generously sized pollock… second free  and fresh fish supper tomorrow evening!  K:  Honest injun … I did not set out to blag two lots of fresh fish … I did offer to pay!

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The views out of our window at Teelin Pier …

 

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430 – Thursday 28th July 2016:  A New Wooly and an Inspirational Man

Guess what fell from the skies during the evening and night – a kind of soft mixture of moisture, vapour and magic mist!  Some folk would call it heavy rain – but we prefer the mystically damp theory!   It was so mystically magic the it crept vertically through the open roof lights and attached itself to some clothing – but not to our duvet!  We slept peacefully, having enjoyed another (they are increasing) alcohol free evening…

The – lets call it ‘nice rain’ sort of decreased and we shot off (shooting off  for us means a leisurely departure at 1030 am) to the area of Malin Beg – not Ballyseg….  We happened upon a Donegal knitwear outlet shop en route and we stopped ‘just to look’ at the Aran-style sweaters. Within a few nano seconds, K’s face lit up at one beautiful cardy-style item.  We settled for an early K birthday pressie and the purchase was completed in lusty style … (K:  my birthday is not till December!)

As we headed for the beach having been warned of the dangers of the mountain track – we fell into conversation with Pablo (injured toe) and David – Peruvian and Irish lads who were long distance walkers. We suggested they might take a lift with us to Glencolumcille – they were happy sandboys – they had camped overnight on the beach! 

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A LOT of steps down and back up (!) to the beach …

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… proof that we did make it!

Glen Columcille Folk village was established in the 50’s/60’s by a true visionary – Fr James McDyer.  A native of Donegal who worked in London initially – he was transferred to Glencolumcille in the 50’s.  He immediately recognised the plight of the local folk – emigration, lack of jobs, etc.  Under his leadership, they built a village hall, holiday cottages to let and many other projects.  He lobbied government for electricity power supplies, water improvements – a saint – you don’t have to be formally canonised to be ‘saintly’.   To attract more tourism he created a small village to show life through the ages.

Glen Garish pass en route to Naran beach – the next overnight stay – is the equal of the most spectacular passes in the Lake District!   

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Glengesh Pass … amazing views, just too misty 😦

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Loads of peat cutting all around Donegal.  J remembers wielding tools to do this as a wee lad, but nowadays it is is nearly all machine cut.

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Glencolumbkille Folk Museum

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Would that be an empty glass?!

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Whilst Catholicism was repressed the Priests went into hiding and toured villages.  If a couple wanted to marry, they poked their fingers through a ‘Promise Rock’ and became bonded.  They could then live as a couple until the Priest arrived and performed a formal marriage service.


Naran beach is a popular resort but still not too busy – loads of youngsters on a 2 mile long white flat sandy beach – another Donegal gem!  Not an amusement arcade to be seen.  K walked the 2 km white sands whilst I had a minor nanny nap.  Once the beach carpark emptied out, we move Chardonnay so we would awake with the sea and beach views … also right next to the left open all night toilet block … how convenient is that?

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The overnight view of the 2km miles of white soft sand.

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Views on K’s walk … layers of mountains and tones …one of those peaks is Mt Errigal, highest mountain in Donegal.

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Someone’s hours of work that I photographed on the way out of my walk …

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… to witness the joy of some other children then destroy on the return leg.  I wondered if the creators would be upset when they came back to the beach tomorrow.

 

431 – Friday 29th July 2016 – Not Moving in Naran Beach

K rinsed clothes while we were right next to water and then we attempted to move Chard to a longer and less in the way parking space … only to be told by an unpleasant cafe owner that the whole car park was NOT for motorhomes and to read the sign.  We’d read every sign … rubbish!  No mention of cars only, but we gracefully moved out of his sight.  K would have fancied an ice cream later today, but no way will she buy from him!  The other locals in a different cafe and the life guards had all been really relaxed when she checked last night about where we could park up. 

We ran for not too many miles on the beach – “Tra Mor” in Irish Gaeilge – large beach. Today, Friday – we decided to be still, spend another night in this completely unspoilt corner – and travel onwards tomorrow to where?  Any where we call home.  

We met Stephen and Christine – relatively new to motor homing and had coffee and cakes!  Still working and thinking of going full time – our advice is – just go for it!  We had a short walk along the coast until the path disintegrated.  Donegal really has not got to grips with tourism … it could do so much more to attract walkers and cyclists, but I suppose it would spoil the uncommercial feel.  

We shall be moving the van again tonight once the car park is empty, but not near the unhappy cafe owner!!!


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426-428: Water, Water Everywhere

426 – Sunday 24th July 2016:  Benbulbin – a Must See

We drove on around Lough Gill to Glencar Waterfall, which is on Glencar Lough (funnily enough) … water everywhere around here!  To be honest the waterfall, which is part of the Yeats drive was disappointing … set up as a massive tourist venue with block paving, a horse drawn carriage to hire and ice cream van.  We did not stay long, but we did manage a Mr Whippy.  The ice cream vans only seem to do these, no choice of ices on sticks 😦

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Glencar Waterfall.

James had been going on about Benbulbin mountain, the most notable in Sligo.  I did not know what to expect … we’d googled about walking up it, but received wisdom was that if was not safe, but J had found a walk just north of it.  So we headed there and the heavens opened … water water everywhere!  We lunched, rested and in a reprieve of rain set off … only for the heavens to open again!  It did dry up a bit and we could see the clouds and mists beetling across the top of Benbulbin revealing the most amazing wide vertical riven rock face.  A seriously memorable mountain.

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Benbulbin:  poor weather meant we really did not have the best view of it.

We fancied a coastal overnight, so headed to Streedagh Beach … an amazing spot and the sun actually made a fleeting appearance.  K spoke to a chap who’d swam … he does so every day of the year.  Cripes!  The water’s lovely, he said, so in I went.  But with wet suit … and it really was silky.  J had to stay on shore to photograph the evidence … again!

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Evidence!

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Taken when the sun finally came out from Streedagh Beach.

We’d planned to stay the night here.  We knew the beach parking sometimes flooded at high tide, so I checked with the life guards … we should be OK.  J was just washing up from dinner and a guardian angel knocked on the door …. the tide was creeping up close and she’d seen lots of motorhomes and cars destroyed … even though I’d checked, the tide still had an hour to go till high tide, but it was close enough.  We very promptly packed up.  Fortunately today was a new all time record in the Clune household … ever!  it was our third dry night in a week since we met over 10 years ago!  Our really lovely guardian angel suggested we drive south to Raghly Point – the the small fishing harbour.  She said … views of Benbulbin and across to Downpatrick mountains – fabulous.  And water!  Although now nearly 9.30, we filled up all our bottles and on board tank … with the view to showering in the morning.  A real gem of an overnight.

J here:  Now then… Our gallant readers will know a little about our PeePeePot.  Yesterday, as I was going about my ‘business’ – I thought about how we might classify our ‘emissions’ ?  How about a wine classification?  Demi-sec?  The container is a sort of demijohn.  Well, see have been dry for a few days – hang about – we are very ‘sec’ indeed – too much information?  Ok – you can ‘sec off’!

 

427 – Monday 25th July 2016:  

A run around the peninsula and then a massive spring clean in the van … and then we showered.  Clean sheets, clean van and clean us.  Joy.  Then we filled up again with water … and had chats with the local fishermen … lobster no good at the mo, as the weather too poor, so they are catching crab, but the price is low.  

We’d now a big Ikea bag of laundry, including the bedding, so I’d googled laundrettes nearby … but by the time we got to Bundoran it was gone 3.00 and the laundrette lass said it would not be ready till tomorrow.  We contemplated staying in the aire next door … EUR15, including showers and electric … but ever budget conscious me (unless it is something I want!) said no, EUR15 is EUR15 and we don’t need to spend it!  But we’d also googled that it was going to cost EUR1 to dispose of card and plastics and EUR4 for a bag of household waste (no free bins and all waste except glass and tin cans are chargeable …. BUT very few recycling / disposal centres and they have very restrictive opening hours … do not get me started on this!!!).  HOWEVER, there was a Lidl next door and J checked … the aire had bins … soooo we could claim the aire was only actually going to cost us EUR10, by the time we’d paid for waste disposal elsewhere, when we’d found one that was open!  And we’d about 4 days of waste starting to smell and be tripped over … in our now pristine Chardonnay.  J rang the contact number and PJ came and opened the barrier and gave us a tour of the newish facilities.  

We shopped and then took a wee dander around Bundoran.  I was not expecting a lot, as it is a well known (in Ireland) seaside resort.  But once you get past the amusement arcades and mini fun fare, it had really pretty beaches, good for surfing … too far for me to walk in my wet suit!

We made the most of our EUR15 … all waste disposed, free electric so the slow cooker made an Italian veggie soffritto and slow cooked a whole chicken, charged devices, toilet emptied and all water replenished.  And I showered … quite necessarily, but because I could!

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Bundoran: one of the small beaches.

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Beaches and rock pools.

 

 428 – Tuesday 26th July 2016:  Belleek Pottery

We both ran through the town and along the beach front … nice.  And I then Pilates’d on the grass.  J cooked a one pot bacon bits, onion and mushroom scrambled egg thing on the bench outside, just before the drizzle started.   We collected the washing – even the knickers were neatly folded!  

We drove onto Belleek.  Now this is one of my favourite potteries … I don’t like the stuff with the painted Shamrock, but Mutt inherited some basket weave Belleek from Great Aunty Mary, which I really do like.  Mum, I’m sending you a  postcard of how to date it … and whilst you’re at it, please put a sticker on the bottom that I will inherit these pieces … sorry Clare, hope that is OK with you!?  Did I mention that I resist spending unnecessary money … well, my new ear rings were really necessary and so was lunch!

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The moulds are only good for 400 pieces and then they loose definition.

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The porcelain mixture is poured in and and then out of the moulds, leaving a residue to harden up.  When it is removed, the staff remove imperfections and rough edges.

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They also cut off unwanted bits, such as the castellations on this one.

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To make the distinctive weave, the base is made and allowed to harden, then the spaghetti strips are moistened and laid over a form.

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Unfired.  All the flowers etc are made by hand.  This one would retail at about £150, which is not dear for the hours of hand labour.

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After firing, glazing and firing again, any paintwork is done by hand.  Then the third and final firing.

Neither of us fancied doing much more sightseeing, so we researched and headed inland to Lower Lough Erne to a wild parking.  Can anyone explain why Lower Lough Erne is above the Upper one?  We are currently parked up a the chain ferry car park that takes vehicles to Lusty Beg Island … yep … that’s the real name.  And guess what … it is tipping it down … please I’d like to see some blue skies!  The Aged P’s have been in Cx2 (Clare and Chris’) place near Bordeaux .. too hot to sit out.