About Clunegapyears

Travelling around Europe with James in our motorhome. And now solo, with friends

965-975: Athens Antics

Posted on February 6, 2018 by Clunegapyears

965 – Wednesday 24th January: A Long Drive

First longish drive for ages…….should recharge the leisure batteries – given the lack of constant sunshine…..From Glythio to Marathonas beach wilding – €39 in m’way tolls but it was a good idea to shorten the journey.

A lovely remote overnight parking on the beach near closed restaurants that may open at weekends…… About 2km of sand and sea.

Snow en route and snow ploughs were out along the m’way through the centre of the Peloponnese.

967 – Thursday 25th January: Marathonas

Into Marathonas town and – we passed the Marathon museum! I had to visit (K and O stayed in Jez). Huge empathy from my 4 marathons (long time ago – last in 1988). The photo is Dorado Pietri (Italian) finishing the 1908 London Olympic Marathon. He fell several times within sight of the finishing line and was helped across by stewards – promptly disqualified! For his bravery, Queen Alexandra presented him with a special cup – he’s now world famous as the runner who did not properly complete the course!

We headed to Nea Kifisia campsite NE of Athens – better for me to stay while K is in Blighty to see Maddy…only 2 days. Not much to do except walk Oscar, visit the local mini market – and read……and chill.

Dorando Pietri.

968 – Friday 26th January: K Brighton Bound

I drove K to the Athens airport in the afternoon – and navigated back to campsite successfully – with my co pilot Oscar!

K Here:
Being 2 hours ahead, I landed at 10.15 p.m. UK time, but it was midnight for my body clock. We went to Maddy’s flat in Brighton via a super supermarket … I bought mostly herbs and spices that I can’t easily find over here. And Saturday’s supper request was that I cook a roast chicken! By the time we chatted and had a glass … my body was in free fall.

Met at Gatwick 🙂 A wonderful welcome by my Munchkin.

Got to pick up my birthday and Christmas pressie … love ‘em.

969 – Saturday 27th January: Brighton Day

Maddy drove me along the coast to her workplace. Steel comes in by boat, off loaded by use of magnets. Into the sheds for drilling and cutting and out on the left onto trucks.

We went on the Pier … the Shove TwoPenny is sooooo additive. Had a giggle on the House of Horrors. This is Maddy’s new date!

We had lunch in Brighton and then shopped till we dropped … trousers for Maddy, new waterproof for me and deodorant for J (he has a special one!). Chicken back at Maddy’s and movie night. Hagen Daas and chocolate, of course!

970 – Sunday 28th January: Breakfast and Back to Greece

Up in time to dive into the centre for breakfast. Banana milk shake was followed by pancakes for someone. I had a green smoothie … aren’t I sanctimonious! I’d bought M a super cheap slow cooker (all of £10 with a 2 year warranty … how do they do that!?, so we headed to the supermarket to fill Maddy’s fridge with food for the week and for the slow cooker. We were cutting it just OK for my flight, but then hit a motorway closure … oops… I arrived at the airport with only an hour to spare. Not only was I scanned, but my ruck sack was pulled for inspection. I had electric cables and plugs for the motorhome, as well as all those food items. I’m trying to keep cool and not tell the chap hurry up, as he pulled out cornflower and icing sugar … fortunately for me, he was off on his break in 3 mins so he did not even use his drug/explosive dust swab. A fast walk through the airport and I made the gate, just with time to buy a bottle of water and a coffee.

At Athens airport I picked up a hire car, which we had booked as we had anticipated our Friend Alison coming to see us tomorrow. Sadly she has had to postpone her trip to us as she is awaiting a heart procedure.

Being with Maddy was very emotional … whilst we talk and text a lot, it is not the same as a good hug and hanging out with her. I will see her next in May.

971- Monday 29th January: Checking Out Sleep Spots

Laundry day – well part of… we drove our hire car (an Astra diesel and nice to drive) to Porto Rafina to check out wild parking spots – met some lovely Transcendental Meditation ladies from Athens and USA. Nice seaside lunch and then to Porto Rafti for more wildspeccing – including for K when I go to Nice to see my daughter in March and for moi whilst K is in UK in May – well travelled us? a lot of flights booked! Then – to Glifda and Pireas for researching our proposed trip to Crete! Did we mention this? A few people, especially on a forum that K is is on, have raved about it, various motorhome bloggers have said it is the best place to motorhome … and K bought the guide book whilst in Brighton … looks like we’re going then!

Mezze lunch in Rafina.

972- Tuesday 30th January: Athens Walking Tour

Car driving in central Athens is – “interesting”…… nobody bothers about lanes or speed restrictions – and the motorbikes/scooters come from all sides!!! But, as we have driven our previous motorhome in central Palermo in the rush hour – Athens by car is a doddle… We even managed to find free on road parking each day we drove in. As we’d given ourselves lots of time I ingested an omelette special in a restaurant next to where we parked the car. The owner gave us his business card so we could find our way back … kind. Actually K spicks a Save on our location in maps.me so we can route our way back, but it would have been ungracious to explain that.

Our guided walking tour – with Michael (Masters degree in Classics) was a lovely 2 hours – with excellent local information and anecdotes. If any local politician or leader took too much power – he was ‘ostracised’ – hence the origin of the word. Only the true born Athenians (6,000) could vote – the other 40,000 were lesser citizens! If that applied in UK, not many people would have the franchise! When we later met Carol and Mike their tour was over 3 hours and so much more informative … ho hum.

The photos below tell the story…

Tower of the Winds in the Roman Forum 2BC. Combined weather vane and water clock. The external friezes depict the 8 winds.

Byzantine Church 1000AD

The area where the Greek nobility attended to vote. 6000 men were entitled to vote and at one point were enticed with silver to attend. Votes were taken on every and any issue daily.

Herodes Theatre AD161, restored in 1955 and used for concerts.

We couldn’t eat it all … Tzatziki, Moussaka, baked Feta with peppers, salad and wine … set price EUR25 for two. And the sun shone.

973- Wednesday 31st January: Acropolis

Our motorhome convoy moved to a wild S of Athens. Soupful lunch in Jez – and off to Athens again – I walked around the Acropolis Museum and then the actual site itself. Very impressive – but we have been truly spoiled by the Greco-Roman remains in Sicily and Italy… Then – a K-phone app guided walking tour to see more local sites.

Views from Areopagus, where youths hang out with a beer at night.

There is the Acropolis, a couple of other hills and a massive urban sprawl … thankfully very few high rises.

Acropolis Museum: Alexander the Great.

James came out of the museum and caught me red handed … oreo and milk chocolate flavour. Yummy. Note the new Maddy boots.

View up to the Acropolis. Only the Temple of Athena Nike 426bc has been restored fully so far.

Propylaia – the enormous entrance.

The Parthenon was covered in scaffolding and plastic sheets when I visited it 30+ years ago … got to see a bit more this time. They have only just replaced the crane inside that had been in service all this time.

J mastering a selfie 🙂

Hadrian’s Arch AD131 – positioned to deliberately mark the boundary between the ancient Greek city and the new Athens of Hadrian. Two inscriptions read “This is the ancient city of Theseus” and on the other side, “This is the city of Hadrian, not of Theseus”, just in case Athenians were not sure!

The Temple of Olympian Zeus. Was the largest in Greece. It started in 6BC, but not completed for 650 years .. a bit like the slow Acropolis rebuilding programme!

Panathaenic (Olympic) Stadium in the site of the original stadium 330BC. It was reconstructed for gladiatorial contests in Hadrian’s time, then in AD144. In 1896 it had a major reconstruction in time for the first modern Olympic Games. It seats 60,000. In 2004 it was used for Archery and the end of the Marathon.

The Royal Palace was completed in 1842, destroyed by fire in 1909 and used as the Parliament building since 1935 … very plain compared to the English Houses of Parliament, about to undergo it’s own £40b (+) renovation. I tried to stand next to the elite guard for my pic … he stamped his gun on the ground and an ordinary army officer came and told me to move off the step. Carol was told on her walking tour that they only stamp their guns if they are threatened … was he concerned about me or Oscar? The tomb of the unknown soldier is behind me.

And without me.

Byron being crowned by Greece. Carol and Mike were told Byron was having his hair combed!

974- Thursday 1st January: Agora and Meeting Up

Athens Camping was our next stop – to hook up again with Carol and Mike (we met them at Ionian Camping at Christmas). Athens centre again – so far we’ve managed free on street parking – lucky… K walked around the Agora – and then later we walked through the old town – narrow market streets and very touristy. We had a date with Mike and Carol for an early supper – walked it off back to our Astra and back up the A8 to the campsite.

Walk through the park and stumbled on Socrates Prison. The holes in the wall were where wooden building were attached to the rock. During WW2, the caves were cemented up concealing museum artefacts.

The Agora … the Greek Forum equivalent, where all the business took place. This is the Stoa … shops now a timeline museum.

Pan … just amazing quality.

A Kleroteria – an allotment machine to see who was to be called for jury duty. People inserted their bronze name tags into the slots, into the top were poured black or white balls. By means of a crank handle the balls were released selecting an entire row for jury service.

Ostracism – intende to protect the city from aspirants to despotic power. Voters scribbled ‘candidates’ names on pottery shards and these were then counted. The ‘winner’ was then ostracised from the city for 10 years.

Ancient Athens Weights and Measures. Financial transactions were supervised by the Agora (Greek Council). These are official vessels for dry goods.

Lead tokens for issuing pieces of armour. The images are representations for helmets, breastplate, shields etc. Middle 3BC.

These vessels have a hole in the top to measure the water and one at the bottom … when the water has emptied, the orator has to stop speaking. I think some teachers could have done with this!

View from the Temple Hephaisteion of the Stoa and the Acropolis.

Temple Hephaisteion 449BC and the best preserved in all Greece … it’s roof is still intact, but you can’t go in.

The security at the Temple took this … nice chap.

Tourist tat in lots of the old streets.

Late lunch/early supper with Carol and Mike.

975- Friday 2nd February: Acropolis 2, Benaki Museum and Central Market

We had planned to high tail out of Athens, but felt we ought to give it another shot. Oscar is an impediment. Being 21kgs, he is too heavy to go in a bag (not that he would entertain this), so the Metro is out. Our only option for visiting the metropolis is to drive in. Given the traffic and erratic parking, a motorhome is a no go. So it sort of made sense to do another day whilst we had the car. There is free camper parking S of the Acropolis, but we worry about being a newish van in a city … we were broken into in Copenhagen. So … another day it was.

Drove in with C and M – they wandered through the Acropolis – Oscar and I sat and braved the wild dogs. Note: most of the wild dogs in Greece have been quite friendly … these were NOT. One attacked our boy. Bastard. The nice man in the cafe came out to call the dogs off. Almost forgave him his prices … €7.00 for a coffee and Twix – extortionate but – tourist prices – I wonder how much it would be in high summer?

Separately, we went into the Benaki Museum – we’re close to being ‘museumed’ out…..and ‘cityfied’ out… Choice over Archaeological Museum as would take 3-5 hours each and we’ve had enough of being in a city. Central Market for meat and veg … stagger back to car with a good load in our back pack and shopping bag.

Earlier back to the campsite than planned as early start next day … our Bristol based Adria dealer has sadly gone bust (we really liked the people that ran it and worked there, so we are very sad for them), so we booked the only Greek Adria dealer to look at front seat at 10.00 tomorrow. It ‘complains’ and grinds when we swivel it. Not sure if it is a warranty issue or not, but since UK Adria dealers will not take on warranty work for another dealer … we may have to pay and labour rates are cheaper here.

K made more haute cuisine soup and prepped a beef stew for the next day.

Evening drinkies at chez M and C – and early abed…..

Theatre of Herodes.

From the Acropolis you can see the Olympic Stadium, Hardian’s Arch and Temple of Olympian Zeus.

And now inside the Benaki Museum … a private collection.

Marble Cycladic female figures 2300-2200BC. Inspired later artist such as Van Gogh.

Bronze folding mirror showing Aphrodite and Eros. 280BC. Perhaps a bit heavy for a handbag, but amazingly constructed.

Lord Byron’s portable desk, pistols and portrait.

The table where King Othon signed the Greek Constitution in 1844. The actual manuscript and Othon’s pen.

Part of the university. Strangely a statue of Gladstone in front. Wonder if some wag of a student was posing a maths sum?

The Central Market … great food and great prices … I had to buy some meat from this chap since he’d obligingly posed. We just had to lug it 1.8km back to the car!

961-964: Mani Peninsular

Posted on January 31, 2018 by Clunegapyears

962 – Sunday 21st January 2018: A Splendid but Solitary Walk

Late arising at our Kalamata bivouac…so no run or showers – it’s only been 3 weeks – oops – 3 days since our last shower! Hands up those motorhomers who shower every day – OK, no hands show? Good! The nice marina security man helped us to fill with water. To Kardamili – I was still nursing the ‘boycold’ so I reclined and K+O walked to the castle, museum and gorge – see the wonderful views….

Overnight at Ag Nikolaos – on the beach (again) – lovely picturesque harbour. Would have been a good dinner out spot, but not much point when poorly. The dry day became a wine day – purely medicinal! A kooky bar with lots of good chat and OscarSociety admirers…..

Kardamyli: The lair of the Troupakis family. The Tower house hamlet turned museum. Info in English explained how the Maniot families were loyal to blood rather than community. Feuds would last years. Local prisons has to keep them apart in separate wings. Feuding was generally over the inadequate land – the mountain range down the spine of the peninsular falls to a narrow strip before the sea cliffs.

Relief stone of the family from the tower 1787.

The Towers were built and maintained by the extended families. Towers grew in height so the feuding families could catapult the neighbouring ones. Cease fires during crop harvesting and women were not targetted. As a result of these battles the peninsula was never completely subjugated under foreign rule.

The Mani hamlets had their own olive presses (this was the main income generator of the area until tourism) and this one had a forge.

The Tomb Of Dioskourroi: 2-3BC. A twin tomb carved into the rock.

Fab views of a fab coastline.

The hamlets’ roof tiles were made of local clay.

Ag. Nikolaos: Our overnight carpark … think Jez is having an identity crisis and wants to float on water.

Ag Nikolaos is described as Outer Mani’s most photogenic harbour … we’d agree.

963 – Monday 22nd January: Going Under and South

Am – K ran and I walked Oscardog….onto Aereopoli for a walk and coffee – a chill and bracing wind – hot coffee and cake. Former stronghold of one of the feuding Mani families, but here that the Maniot uprising against the Turks was declared.

Pyrgos Dirou Caves. One of largest and most colourful in Greece. Boat ride – how low can we go? No hard hats – we were bobbing up and down all the time, folded in half – but it rivals the Potsdjayna Caves in Slovenia – of 2+ years ago…the colours are quite stunning. Oscar waited patiently (?) in Jez…..

Fabulous drive down the coast to the most southerly point of mainland Greece – remote and – yes – very quiet….hunkered down for the evening. No light pollution so again amazing stars.

Areopoli: Another feuding family stronghold, but was renamed after the war of independence as this is where the Maniots united and declared war on the Turks.

The bell tower of the Taxiarchon is the highest in the Mani.

The wind was seriously biting, so we sheltered for coffee and a shared orange cake.

Dirou Caves … wow as soon as you enter. A 20 min boat ride followed by a walk. We had the caves to ourselves. If only the chap punting us had broken into “Just one cornetto!”

The caves were known about from 1900, but not systematically explored until 1949. Now routes of 14,700 metres have been charted. The tourist route is 1500m, the first 1200 being by boat. The grand opening of the caves was in 1967 after 6 years of work, including linking the natural caverns with tunnels.

Vatheia on our route south: dramatic location with deserted and restored Tower Houses.

Cape Tenaro: as far south as you can go. This is the chapel of Asomati constructed from the stones of an ancient temple of Poseidon.

Our spot … our bottom to the wind with seaward views.

As the eldest of 3, I had to share this with my parents and sibblings … my sister’s answer is unprintable!! She said something that rymes with “Rollox”!!!

964 – Tuesday 23rd January: The Furthest Point

How long can I drag out this ‘boyschilly’ thing? In boarding school, I would have been turfed out of Matron’s bedrest room…the boys loved to be ‘turfed’ by Matron….make of that what you will! Her bedside manner was – appealing – nothing to do with her big b**b**s, at all… Back to the script before I get smacked around the gillies for being ‘off-topic’… K did her pilates early while Oscar watched from a tethered position – he does like to join in – especially for the ‘horizontal round-the-tummy’ position – (so do I). The views from our overnight are quite something, again… We broke bread and walked to the most southerly point in the mainland – lighthouse – where we had the obligatory ‘selfie’. A cave nearby is another mouth to Hades, not sure where exactly and not about to risk life and limb to clamber around the rocks.

The wild flowers are rather beautiful here – spring is just around the corner…

As K will fly from Athens to see her daughter, we must quite reluctantly now travel north – but we will certainly return to this area – probably in late February/early March. We really like the Maniot architeture … cuboid stone and flat grooves … some are modern but still really attractive. Great walking area and coast …

In recent years, we’ve had a dream – well several, actually…. To sell one of our modest properties in Brizzle – and buy in Euroland. (K’parents – Diane and Grahame think we’re mad – well we are). First it was going to be Scotland – then Portugal – then France. Now – Greece – of course! If this is madness – we quite like it. Much more ‘bangs’ for our bucks in Greece – it might happen… watch this space!

North to Gythio – well, a beach nearby – for a wilding. A famous shipwreck beached and now for the tourists…. this demands another poetical quote…

“And now the storm blast came and he

was tyrannous and strong

he struck with his o’er taking wings

and drove us south along

the ship drove fast, loud roared the blast

and southward aye we fled”

Coleridge, again – the poor Mariner should not have shot the albatross – but that’s another tale….just watch out for mariners with crossbows!

Cape Tenaro.

Looking back to the car park and Jez.

The lighthouse at the point. We’ve been watching numerous ferries and freighters sail by.

We woz ‘ere.

We’ve seen wild orchids for a few days now, but today’s sunshine brought our small red and pink poppy look alikes along the road. We’ve been told the Spring flowers here are quite a sight.

As well as Hades Cave, the church with the stolen temple stones, there are Roman remains with mosaics. A local museum was shut.

Just 5 km N of Gythio is our overnight spot. The Dimitrios accidentally ‘docked’ here in 1981 and has become a bit of a tourist attraction. Our overnight is a car park just below the pic.

And Gythio in the background, which we may come back to, as we did not have time to wander here.

Chilled! Both of us.

955-961: Reoccuring Meetings

Posted on January 20, 2018 by Clunegapyears

955 – Sunday 14th January 2018: Gialova Castle and Lagoons.

Ag Kiriaki harbour was the perfect peaceful overnight and we awoke to beautiful clear blue skies. As I was still suffering from a minor ‘mancold/chill’ – and requiring R&R……K and Oscar ran in the am. We jezzed a short distance to – Gialova Lagoon – another amazing wilding spot. My recuperation was proceeding in a ‘manly’ fashion – men are so brave – how do ladies cope with these ailments? I couldn’t possibly comment! We met Tony – Greek resident from God’s own country – Wales! He gave us loads of advice on walking routes….. K had a fantastic walk to the Castle and 360 degree views… K: coming down to Nestor’s Cave from the castle was seriously steep. my knees are not brilliant and my sense of balance abysmal … even with the metal foot bars and railings, I was reduced to all fours on more than one occasion!

We didn’t get washed away at Ag Kiriaki harbour, but woke to brilliant blue skies 🙂

Our two night pitch. Gialova Lagoon behind and the Bay of Navarino in front.

A climb up to Old Navarino Castle, another Franco Venetian construction, huge but lacking any restoration. In fact signs say it is dangerous so closed. At the base, the walk is also shut due to rockfall. In true Greek style, Oscar and I ignored the signs.

The most amazing views of the Lagoon and Voidokilia Beach – a perfect horseshoe.

Such a steep descent from the castle there were metal footholds and a hand rail … down to Nestor’s Cave. This cave may have been the inspiration for Homer where Nestor and Beleus kept their cows.

Looking out of Nestor’s Cave.

956 – Monday 15th January: A Leisurely Lagoon Walk

Nice easy 7k walk around the lagoon….later, as we were ‘napping’ – in a state of undress, a knock sounded on the door! Sue and Mick (from Brighton) had seen our GB reg and introduced themselves….. Their van was parked about 1k away – so – appointment for post-prandial drinks at 6:00 – as you do…..they have been part time/winter motorhomers for 14 years! Much chat about places we’ve both visited.

The lagoon is a bird sanctuary with an easy path around it.

957 – Tuesday 16th January: Pylos – Big Night OUT

Showered and de-sanded Jez – a much and frequently needed operation these days. Journeyed to Pylos Harbour – Sue and Mick arrived – closely followed by newcomers (to us) – Helena and Hakan (Swedish) and Ruth and Allen (New Zealanders). Decision to eat out in local restaurant – all 8 of us. Pre and after drinkies in Jez – a slightly tipsy agreement to hold an ‘American’ supper on the following night…in ours.

Our peaceful parking.

958 – Wednesday 17th January: Pylos – A Not So Big Night IN

We stayed in town to shop for the evening while the others visited Nestor’s Palace nearby. Our trip took in the post office, fish market, supermarket – and coffee! After last nights late to bed – guess what everyone did in the afternoon – nappyzapped! K did her starter of aubergeine, tomato and Halloumi, Ruth prepared stuffed squid a la delicious, Helena did a Greek salad – and Sue conjured a gorgeous lemon meringue pie! Did we sup well? Someone had a bottle of port……

We thought 7 eating in Jez was pushing it, but now we are up to 8. 9? I think not!

959 – Thursday 18th January: Being Blown off the Harbour and Methoni

In the night, the wind did blow – and blow – up to 62kph gusts! We rocked and rolled – we had sited Jez to face the wind – but the clever wind anticipated us and changed direction. We’ve never had our wheels in the sea water. Early morning all 4 vans took shelter back at the end of the harbour parking – much relief…vans covered with encrusted salt….leisure batteries on very low voltage.

To Methoni – castle visit in the gales (see photos) and on to a small campsite to recharge batteries – wash Jez, hand washing laundry and selfshowering. Our other recent friends will be following our path along the coast towards Kalamata.

Our peaceful harbour wall became a roller coaster ride with 62 kph gusts and spray coming over us.

Methoni castle – one of the pair of Venetian ‘eyes’ with the sea on 3 sides and a moat landward. It was huge and contained hammams, a church a huge market place, and a main street.

The French built the arched bridge across the moat in 1828. Don’t be fooled by the stunning blue sky … the winds had NOT abated!

Going into the marketplace.

The Bourtzi was a prison island. Accessed by a causeway, which was totally impassable impassable today – either you’d have been blown off or washed off.

Peaceful and windless view from our camping pitch at Camping Thines. EUR14 incl. EHU. The young manager told me that the massive hail storm last Sunday had been the case of the road to the village to collapse – he’s not sure when the municipality will repair the damage.

960 – Friday 19th January: Koroni and Kalamata

K and O ran around Finikounda, which was pretty – lots of open bars and restaurants.

Koroni for lunch and walk – Sue and Mick passed and stopped to chat – we’ll see them later at Kalamata Marina wild parking. We perambulated the village and castle – and met Tony (again)! He became our impromptu tour guide – he’s considering another adventure – in India!

En route to Kalamata, our Colin SatNav said “After 2 kilometres, turn right on Calamitous Road”!!! Even Oscar jumped! OK, it was Colin’s pronunciation of “Kalamata’s Road”. Overnight at the Marina was €12 with eclectic, sorry electric, toilets, showers and laundry facilities – excellent value. It should have been a ‘dry’ night – but with Sue and Mick, we pushed the boat out in a local restaurant (nice pun, James). €80 for 4 meals – 2 courses and copious wine! Lovely quality food and fresh fish 🙂

A quiet sheltered night – no wind.

Koroni: Seen livestock in towns, but not geese blocking the pavement before.

A larger town than Methoni.

Walk around the base of the castle … it seems to be held up with spray on concrete!

961 – Saturday 20th January: Kalamatious Laundry!

Loaded washing machine with our bedding …. water off in town! Long wait for water and laundry completion – then town walk – not the prettiest place but interesting. I replenished my vape supplies. Mike and Sue left for Mycene and we encountered Hakan and Helena who were off to stay at a local village – sure we’ll wee them all again on our travels around Greece. Wonder where the NZ couple are?

Other than the restaurants, this seems to be the main (only?) attraction of Kalamata … a collection of trains and carriages in a central park.

Our Marina pitch.

949-954: GORGEous, Follies and Flowers

Posted on January 13, 2018 by Clunegapyears

949 – Monday 8th January 2018: Monastery Walk

At 9:30 am (early or what?), we embarked on what would be a 10k walk steeply up and down along the gorge. Oscar ‘em barked his way too….but his ‘em barking settles when we’re underway. We followed a path carved by the monks for their donkeys hundreds of years ago – still droppings on the way so it’s still used to transport stuff to the monasteries. After a short time, we came to the Prodhromou Monastery – literally clinging to the steep cliffs – it looked almost as if the rock had been carved to accommodate the structures. I went in and viewed the kooky stairways and rooms – very quiet and definitely contemplative. On we went down and up and the other way around – past rushing streams – while Oscar bashed our legs with his usual selection of sticks! The Monastery of Nea Filosoou was more modern and we entered the courtyard to be greeted by a charming monk who gave us water and Turkish Delight sweets! We’ve since herd that the Greeks don’t call it Turkish Delight, but just Delight! It was necessary to tie O up in the yard – he vocally made his objections clear… The chapel is lovely and small.. Only 2 monks live there – our host had been in residence for 8 years. Super frescoes.

Back retracing our footsteps and down to the actual gorge itself. Ancient Gortys nestled at the bottom. I nestled my feet as this septuagenarian was feeling slightly tired – age related?

Back up again to the original path and after only (?) 3.5 hours – to good old Jez….. my feet took a direction in the door, past the executive bathroom and into the royal bedchamber where they forced me to recline…. But a stunning day – excellent walking and views to die for…..

Same overnightly – and even more quiet than last night………

Hard to see, but there is a chapel on the right and another on the left of the gorge, so our walk will go down and then up … and then in reverse! Demitsana nestles at the head of the gorge.

Zoom lens to see the chapel at the right hand Monastery of Prodhromou C12.

Part of the easier donkey path, carved out by the monks.

Wow, turn a corner and this is the Monastery with living accommodation … all clinging to the cliff.

Looking back at the Monastery of Prodhromou.

The gorge is 300m deep and the water powered around rocks.

Nea Filosoou Monastery: C17. Restored

Church with 1663 frescoes …

Ancient Gortys at the other end of our gorge walk. Temple to Asklepios God of Healing, a therapeutic centre, from 4BC.

Taken from Ancient Gortys … can just make out the church where Jez is parked.

950 – Tuesday 9th January: Back to Kaiafa Springs With a Purpose!

Back up the hill from Lousois Gorge – the nightly darkest pitch we’ve ever stayed at……lots of clear stars overhead. Powered to Dimitsana Water Power Museum – open all days – except Tuesday! But their car park contained a water supply – so Jez got his fill. Lunch and admin in van – with Wifi.

Across the mountains towards Kaifia Springs (again – second stay). More lovely hill towns and a stop at Langardia for coffee – very narrow streets (have we written about these before?) – mega reversing to pass oncoming coach. The usual visit to Lidl – and then the wild parking at the Springs – one other van (German) for company.

Now during the food prep, K opened the door of an overhead locker, taking the usual precaution of placing her hand to prevent anything falling on her nod… well, this Greek olive oil bottle had other ideas – avoided her grasp – and in true aviation style – flew around the kitchen!!! I was outside and heard the anthem “F**k a**e bum t*t” in her melodious and high pitched voice…..the glass was everywhere – floor, rugs – and next morning – even in the blinking shower! The oil had attached itself to floor and all vertical surfaces, including K – not that she’s a vertical surface….. Oscar and I escaped. Clearing up took a good hour – the unanticipated benefit was a thorough kitchen clean!

Sorry a few final pix of our loveliest of spots, taken with J’s mega zoom lens. The chapel – our van view.

Ancient Gortys and St Andrews Chapel.

The second monastery.

Spontaneous stop in pretty Langadia. Not sure when the Christmas decs will come down.

Watching busses and a huge lorry negotiate the narrow roads.

951 – Wednesday 10th January: Spring Swim and Laundry

Morning – and my water babe took to the Springs – the reason we had come back here. Vaulting high into the air straight over the gate – well climbing actually but the high jump sounded better…back in Jez – the sweet aroma of sulphur pervaded…… showered and brekkied, we eased back to Elea beach wilding spot – same pitch looking at the rolling seas….. (I had declined the Springs due to a ‘mancold’, manifestly – not testily or feistily).

A swift climb over the gate and in – we’d seen locals do this on our last stay here. The old bath house has just been left as an eyesore; the new on is adjacent. The water gurgles up from inside the cave.

Maddy’s Bad Hair Day Shower cap!

952 – Thursday 11th January: Easy to Supper

Slow easy day start, beach walking………..Rod and Bernadette came to supper – brought flowers and a yummy lemon curd – much chat and easy company…..we parted with them at 2:00 am!!!

Rod picked these from their garden … they are just delightful and still have a wonderful scent. Absolutely years since anyone has given me flowers, other than James, of course!

953 – Friday 12th January: Admin and Rest

Another restful day – some admin, including updating our spreadsheet re putative house purchase in France….. Verdict …Yes we can afford to live if we buy in France 🙂

954 – Saturday 13th January: Follies in Filiatra

A really sad adieu to Elea wilding after a total of 9 days! Highly recommended, indeed. Met Phil and Carol at Lidl – and on the Filiatra, via the Fairy Castle and Eiffel Tower. Overnight on a lovely harbourside wilding, with the sea washing over the wall behind us – I wonder what time high tide will be?

A Greek, Dr. Harry Fournier, returned from Chicago in the 1960’s built this … his son has restored it.

I only spotted Oscar’s wee activity when I looked at the pix on the computer…

… pleased to say J is not following suit.

A Poseidon’s horse building.

And he built a mini Tour Eiffel just into Filiatra.

Our overnight stop Ag. Karachi. Just hoping the wind is not up, or we will get a wave drenching!

Oscar’s Diary

They tell me I’ve been quite a few day at ‘Ellyyah’ – it’s good here – lots of nice K9 friends, girls and boyos….good humanoids as well, I must mention.

K phoned her Mum (and Dad) – they’re off to someplace called “Eeejit” which is east of here with also sandy beaches – and Kyro (sounds Greek to me) has somethings called Pyromids and Spanks (very naughty, Grahame and Diane!). Now most folk would say “Morning Mum – how are you this fine day?” Not our K – no need to roll out the nice-titties, sorry niceties… “It’s only I – can you bring some coryanngle to Athens?” Blinking BT will never make money from the Leslie Clan! If I tried asking for my dinner like that “Katherine – it’s only O – dinner now pronto?” My backside would be whinging it’s way to Solihull…

Oh well, there’s newt as frog as folk, as the poet said….. this was short as time presses – people to see.

Efharisto.

Oscar

945-948: And Up Into the Hills

Posted on January 9, 2018 by Clunegapyears

945 – Thursday 4th January 2018: Waiting for the Weather

Another day of pottering waiting for the weather to improve so we can head for the hills. We moved out of the strong winds and then back again as they abated…

K: I found the trees far too gloomy with no view … fortunately the wind died down so we moved to ‘our’ pitch. Funny how you can become quite territorial

We were treated to supper by San and Dave. Their permanent home is in Bulgaria and they gave us loads if good tips of places to visit. They also kindly invited us to visit them there in the Spring! Many thanks to you two…

‘Our’ pitch sunset view. Worth moving back for!

946 – Friday 5th January: Interesting Drive to Interesting Places

Our first run for eleven days…a bit creaky but what a lovely place to run….. Plentiful water supply so showers were in order – and then adieu to San, Dave and Phil, although we’ll see Phil next week on our return to Elea – definitely one of the best ever wilding places…

The road through the hills to the Temple of Apollo (about one hour and a half) had suffered badly from recent rains – rocks on the road, subsidence, slippery mud, etc. But quite safe. Very narrow towns and villages – but well worth the drive – the Temple is amazing – K’s photos do it justice!

We could have stayed overnight in the Temple car park but decided to Jezzy on to Adritsiana… Well, with vino at €2.00 per reasonable glassful – could we resist? Our dry night became a little less so… never mind – most of next week will be completely (mostly) alcohol-free – a real challenge but necessary after the Christmas and New Year festivities. We treated ourselves to a local meal out – with Oscar in attendance – €30.00 in total. (We found out in the morning that we had won £50.00 in Premium Bonds – yippee – good old Ernie!!!

Traffic Jam. Not the only road obstacle encountered. Fallen rocks, mud and some narrow towns.

Temple of Apollo Epicurius at Bassae. Wow factor as soon as you enter the big tent.

The stones outside may be replaced within the temple at some point; they are all numbered with the location where they fell.

A Walk around Andritsena / Andritsaina and at EUR2 apiece, our dry day went out of the window and led to this…

… Supper out. Once they had taken our order, one of the chaps disappeared and came back with a shopping bag … know it’s fresh.

Andritsena is known for the tree fountain. We’d not found it until I looked across from our restaurant window and there it was!

A lovely kooky town with lots of stone crumbling buildings and narrow cobbled streets. And people living here, with normal shops!

Liked Andrritsana a lot … checked it out, a massive 300m2 house with 4 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, in the centre of town and ours for all of EUR95 before we begin negotiations! But what would we do all day … every day???

947 – Saturday 6th January: Karytaina / Karitena

No morning run – but all brekkied up and on to Karytaina. It’s the feast of Epiphany which is more important (or as important) than Christmas in Greece. A much easier drive and the town was buzzing because of the feast… We were extremely lucky to get a parking place in the town centre where we will overnight – we had to wait in Jez until a space became free. It may well be busy until much later… Lovely steep walk up to the castle with magnificent 360 degrees panorama. Coffee in town – and moist orange cake! Plenty of tourists around – what a nice place to stay…we are so lucky in our chosen lifestyle… Quiet overnight once the charming church bells finished tolling the hours – our parking was lit up brightly all night.

The castle was visible from about 20km away.

Views from the top of Karitena … miles of rolling hills.

Oscar there are treats at the bottom to entice you down. Didn’t take him long to decide.

Byzantine Church with castle.

More crumbling stone buildings and narrow roads, but definitely more touristy than Andritsena. No proper shops! Cafes and restaurants.

Fabulous views from our parking…

948 – Sunday 8th January: Megalopoli & Stemnitsa

We drove from Karitena to Megalopoli to see more Grecian remains – it was closed but we walked around the perimeter fence – not a lot to be seen but a work in progress… An ‘interesting’ drive to Stemnitsa – fallen trees almost blocking the road and snow! A very slow drive indeed with no chances take…..multiple z bends as well. Into the town – the overnight parking was through the centre – very narrow streets, cars parked – mega busy due to Epiphany feast weekend. A large easy carpark alongside the road, but few using it. We’ve been told by a Greek, that the Greeks do not like walking and will park as close as they can to save walking! Sound familiar? Think the Brits are often like this too. A folklore museum – the town was for centuries the the premier metal smithing place. We had previously lunched in Jez.

To the Lousios Gorge for our night stay – Scandinavian serious z bends all the way down with cars coming up on a very narrow road – some reversing and wiggling. Not to mention the rock fall and subsidence!

When we arrived at the parking it was busy and remained so until quite late – some people stay at the monasteries atop the gorge – maybe some ‘courting couples’ also. What a nicely old fashioned word – do girls and boys still ‘court’ each other? We hope so….. our courting went on for some years before the ‘question’ was popped.

zzzzzzs in absolute blackness until the moon came over the mountain.

Megalopoli: Massive carpark, but closed for restoration. The guide book described it as ‘one of the most extensive and least touristy sites’. 9km of walls. The amphitheatre seated 20,000.

P1150573