Gemusler Monastery is carved around a courtyard and below ground. Only rediscovered in 1963.
Lots of chambers and a large church.
Some fine frescoes, some of the best preserved. The frescoes in the church are C7 and C11. The Virgin and Child is said to be the only smiling Mary in existence. Guess she didn’t have a lot to smile about. Holes in the ground for wine and oil. A kitchen, crypt and refectory. Stairs to an upstairs bedroom … stairs quite lethal as so worn.
Outside, left and right, caves for quite a way.Some good scenery. Snow in winter.And a lot of high rise accommodation.
Overnight is another picnic area over a small reservoir. The municipality used to charge. The cafe doesn’t look as if it ever opened. Picnic huts need the felting nailed down. A lot of money was spent here once.
Outside the cafe that was never finished. There are toilets and plenty of taps. Overcast. Much much cooler and thunder and rain for 20 mins. We tried to walk around the small reservoir, but a large shepherd dog frightened Corrie.
We left the Konya central, but empty, car parkingand headed SE.
Fag butts everywhereThe scenery as we approached our destination became rugged
We passed many cave dwellings. But our destination was the Taşkale granaries. C6-7, these 450 caves were hand dug out of the limestone solely to store grain. Apparently for as long as 30 years. Some are 40ft long and are closed off with a juniper door. The wooden pulley systems above each door are starting to decay.
Mosque in the middle Still usedView
From Taşkale, we drive for 45 mins on a new road. I really need not have checked with a local that the road was suitable for our large camper. Caravan, as Turks call it.
Across the rugged and barren Anatolian Steppe, we passed one hamlet and several concrete trucks. Flat and burnt straw coloured as far as the eye could see.
Our overnight is another picnic area. Worst litter we have seen. Almost as bad as parts of Albania. But first lot of trees, poplars, at the head of a reservoir.
Laundry. Needed bedding and towels washed now my twin tub washing part on the blink. A couple of pairs of shorts and tops added to the bag … £23 so not cheap. But done. And collected the same day.
Whirling Dervish. Twirling to mostly reed pipe music. Their white skirts flare out and hands are raised to the sky. It’s a ritual meditative dance in a trance to bring you closer to God. Rumi started the Mevlana order of Islam following BC his poetry about love and forgiveness.
Whirling Dervish. Pix courtesy of National Geographic
We visited Rumi’s museum / mausoleum. It is a pilgrimage site for Sufis Muslims. Too hot to traipse to numerous mosques and a park.
Rumi’s tomb
We wanted to visit a show in the evening. €25 pp was off putting but nowhere for Corrie to go, as even 8 pm too hot to leave her in the van. So we watched the ritual dance on YouTube and were pleased to have saved €50!!! Spent a little on a magnificent cake instead!!!
The Mevlana museum complex MevlanaMuseum rooftops. Pide for lunch and cake for dinner!
James scribing – for a change! Lake Burdur was our place of wild camping last night – well not at the lake – too hot and no shade – so a nearby forest are with lots of shade. We had eaten at the lake – just relaxing wine at the site…
Morning up earlyish – sadly lots of rubbish left by the people barbecuing last night. K did some litter picking – she did lots of clothes washing – our old twin tub half working (spinner only) but showing its age – it doesn’t owe us anything. Before leaving, we completed the Motorhomers ideal – fresh water, empty wc and empty grey waste! We also showered ourselves… On the road continuing our travels in Turkey’s Lake District – nothing like Cumbria but quite impressive – clouds in the sky for a change! It must not rain – as our windscreen wipers are bankjaxed! You Irish will know this word…
Several wild camping sites passed – not proper access – too steep. Eventually settled on the lakeside near Egirdir – lovely. Walked Corrie – no wild dogs or cats – ice cream and ‘shiy’ – Turkish tea…
No wine today maybe tomorrow… Early start as we will visit a Fiat garage to repair our windscreen wipers. Not “Fix it again tomorrow” but Fiat Italia Automobile Torino“ – hopefully….
Finally mountainsLake EgirdirOur pitch, some shade and strong winds hitting Jez’s derrière. Cay and ice cream, of course.
Isparta and Beysehir
29/07
For our reader(s) – a question? On our short travels in Turkey we’ve seen a chain of shops – “Arcelik”! Any ideas (apart from the obvious)? Myself and K are mystified! Answers on a postcard – to “Jez” Turkey. The winner will have lots of “Liks” – via Corrie!
This morning – up and at em at almost dawn – 7:00 am – brekkie, dog walk – and off to Isparta town to the Fiat garage “Fix it ASAP thanks”. They did – in 20 minutes – with help from Google Translate – a 4 Euro charge! Mile grazi!
Back to the lakes on very quiet highways. Two hours brought us to Beysehir and a lovely lakefront spot for the night. Lunch Al fresco – a windy walk – iced tea, orange juice and ice cream! Now for some warmish wine and chilling. “Tesiculer” – maybe thanks in Turkish?
Egirdir spit where we spent last nightEgirdir lake viewsBeysehir lake picnic spotThe mosque was built 1296-99 and has the largest wooden roof and some fine tilesLove the sign, it translates as “Tombs are not places for making wishes. Let’s not believe in superstitions and throw money. Put your donations into the aid fund!Lake views. Lots of wadersFront and back of the stone bridge / water regulator dam. It claims to be the first irrigation project of the Ottoman Empire. I doubt that as it was built in 1908-14!
We fed the locals breakfast. The one on the step had stitches so obviously a neutering program. The dogs all had municipal ear tags.
We didn’t go to Pamukkale as I’ve been twice now. Disappointed last time with how tourism / people have destroyed a natural wonder. Again.
These caves were on my list from on our visit 5 years ago, when Covid had interrupted our Turkey travel plans. They’d been identified as less touristy by, I think, the Motoroamers. Only £1.10 pp. Pamukkale £29, incl online discount.
The car park was full of Tr cars … we really appreciate that local sites and picnic areas are full of families.
Great caves. Great recommendation.
Who needs Pamukkale with these travertine terraces?
We are finding the small out of city supermarkets don’t hold a lot of fresh produce. It took two shops to find a few basics, but oranges, carrots, cabbage and lettuce are still on my shopping list. Bit of a nuisance as we’re eating two salads a day. The fridge is working, but despite the new fridge fans, can’t keep things cold to last more than 2 days. Fortunately the freezer will normally produce ice to go in the white wine. And our red white has gone into the fridge too, just so it isn’t mulled wine temperature.
I googled Turkish wine production as we passed many km of vineyards yesterday. 4th largest acreage in the world of vines. 6th largest producer. 47th exporter. 85% are Muslim and don’t drink. So that makes the 15% old soaks! Have drunk all 3 colours out and think better than most Greek wine.
We drove onto the Lake District. Passed a massive lake / wetland with piles of salt. Googled it.
Significant Tr of salt from here.As we’ve moved east, the scenery has improved
Too hot to food prep and too hungry so we ate overlooking the lake. £26 for 2 middle of the road dishes, 2 soft drinks and Magnums. Convenient, but, even I, would rather eat my own food.
Did the job Burdur Lake. I’d hoped to be able to swim, but obviously sludge.
The van was in full sun at the lakeside picnic / restaurant area … 50C inside. So we are now parked in shade in another picnic area
Clune Gap Years 