1372-1374: South Coast Walks

1372:  Back to the South Coast

Friday 6th December 2019

With a gap before we have to be back at Fiat for another repair (minor this time, just a replacement cigarette lighter) we headed back down to the South coast.  A nice little spot on PJ’s Greece Stopovers, adjacent to a small Taverna and hotel and a small harbour.  We stayed 3 nights and other than 2 Korean girls who stayed one night in the accommodation and a couple of fishermen, we were undisturbed.  Just lovely.  Perfect wilding.  Oh, there was this British man, who joined us for 2 nights … we’d met Brian and his Vizsla, Zoa, on the campsite near Rethymno.  J and I had lovely drive in convey over the white mountains down to east of Choria Sfakion.

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Pitch Perfect.

Once we’d lunched and J rested we drove the AndyPandyCar into C Sfakion.  We’d visited this with the Aged P’s third week of October and it was VERY different now.  Completely closed up for the winter, bar one cafe and the bakery, which was in full production, bagging up biscuits and rusks.  I bought some biscuits and we had a lovely chat with the daughter and were given chocolate as it was her mother’s Name Day … more important than a birthday in Greece.  Coffee and then back to Jez for supper with Brian.  And he plays Cribb.  This might have been my third question to him.  One for his Nob!!!

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A shut up Chora Sfakion.

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1373:  Imbros Gorge

Saturday 7th December

I’d fancied doing the Imbros Gorge for a while, and it lived up to the hype.  It is considered the little sister to the Samaria Gorge, but has some great scenery and is only 7.5km.  We left the AndyPandyCar at the bottom and drove Jez to the top and walked down.  The plan was to drive the car back up to fetch the van and to avoid the EUR25 taxi fare.  Great walk and got to the bottom … fatal flaw in the plan.  We’d managed to leave the car key in the van!  So had to stump up the taxi fare after all!

We consoled ourselves for the waste of money with a coffee and cake (thank you Brian) back in C. Sfakia.

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Start of the walk  and tarmac.  The rest was unstable stones, so slow going for us.

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Brian and Zoa, with J and C.

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We encountered one group of youngsters and a runner who went down and up  in the summer it is heaving.

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Apparently not as deep as Samaria, but still narrow in places.  1.6m at the narrowest.

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Brian and Zoa were much faster than us.

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The dogs have all become besties and Corrie deserted us for her new friend  . Brian cobbled her to the other end of the lead to await our descent.

 

1374: Askifou Plateau Walk

Sunday 8th December

Pretty much flat with surrounding views of the White Mountains.  And the sun stayed with us until the last 20 mins when the rain came down.  We drove into the small village of Amoudari, where we found an open taverna.  It soon filled up with locals … the Greeks do make a point of Sunday dinning with friends.  

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Taverna with real fire for us to steam dry to.

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Rabbit in wine sauce for me and chicken for J … all with chips of course!  I’ve eaten more chips this trip than in the previous 4 years!  But they are generally hand cut and actually taste of potato.

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 The lunch mustve given me loads of energy as I washed the outside of the van whilst J had his nanny nap!  Only for it to rain and leave loads of dust streaks all over it two days later!

 

1375: Back to Heraklion and a Lost Corrie 

Monday 9th December

3.5 hrs drive plus a coffee stop, of course, back to Heralkion … just east to a beach parking we used a couple of times last trip.  Lunch on arrival and then I braved the supermarket to stock up a bit prior to Maddy’s arrival on Wednesday.

I take CO2 for their last night time walk and it was raining.  Whilst I dried Oscar’s paws, Corrie just disappeared.  I whistled and called, scanning the black rain for sight of the flashing bauble on her collar.  No sign.  A car drove in, paused and then left.  I was convinced, she’d been stolen.  J had to get up and dressed … he went one way down the beach and I the other.  He found her about 400m further on … she’d just kept going and not turned left at the van.  What a relief. Since then, we’ve tried 3 pet shops to buy the full lit up more visible collars … but they don’t seem to sell them here.

 

1376: Jez Sorted and Back to Kalyves

Tuesday 10th December 

We left Jez with Fiat for the cigarette lighter fix, had a coffee and dropped by the Truma agent to collect and pay for the right angle part for our gas.  The chap is so busy fixing olive tree shakers (a vicious looking long device that shakes the branches so the olives fall off) that we will go back to him sometime in the New Year.

Fiat thought we have mice in the engine bay … no droppings or chewed wires but some disturbed dust marks … I put some mouse glue on cardboard and baited it with cheese … no stuck on rodents thankfully the next morning.  And it really is glue … dead sticky.  I should know as I got some on my fingers.

Thence back to Kalyves … Lovely Ann gave us the regulator posted from Britain, so now we finally have a spare.   Brian had arrived on Sunday.  We had the decider match of Cribb … what a slaughter!  I was particularly lucky with my cards, for once.

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1359-1371: Gas Limits Play!

1359: 1371

Sunday 24th November – Thursday 5th December 2019

Being so out of date, this post is a summary …. that’ll teach me to get behind.

 

Gas Truma Trama

The replacement Truma regulator arrived, but the new version is configured E and S, ours is N and S.  Our regulator is also positioned too low down, as it should be above the top of the gas bottles … apparently the into-habitation pipes are often cut as motorhomes are imported into the UK and a cheap regulator attached.  We had met a lovely local ex-pat couple Anthony and Julia … who just happen to be motorhomers and he is dead handy, having been a vehicle mechanic.  As soon as the Truma arrived, we hot footed it to Anthony.  No, due to the different shape, it would not physically fit in our locker with the two bottles.  However, they very kindly loaned us (and fitted) their spare French gas bottle (propane and more pressure, which is why it worked with our failing regulator) so we could heat water and shower!  It felt such luxury.

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Anthony and Julias French gas bottle enabling much needed showers … and you can see the N /S regulator is too low in relation to the top of the yellow GasLow bottle.

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The replacement E / S regulator.

We then bought a Greek bottle … propane and a hose and bottle end attachment …. just needed the connection to the regulator.  Nope.  We drove in the AndyPandyCar into 2 specialist gas places in Chania … no way would anywhere in Crete be able to supply us with the connector, we were told!  GRRR!  Having bought a regulator that didn’t fit, and now a gas bottle we couldn’t use, it is definitely a case of of throwing money at a problem BUT not getting anywhere!

On the phone to GasLow in the UK and a really helpful Martin … they could send us a N and S regulator which would fit in the locker.  No crash cut off sensor, but we do have rupture thingies built into the bottles … apparently!  It would take about 11 days to get to Greece … ah Maddy could bring it out with her and save on postage.  I checked with EasyJet about a regulator being allowed in hand luggage …. no it will look like tools so must go into the hold.  Maddy not delighted with this news as she only has 1.5 hrs between flights at Athens and historically airlines have a history of losing her luggage.  I balked at the fee of £59 for a case in the hold one way!  Quickly back onto the phone to GasLow … no it had not been collected by Parcel Force yet … £30 to post to Greece, which incidentally is the price of the regulator.  Fortunately as we were sorting this out, lovely Ann, who lives in Kalyves walked past and allowed us to use her postal address.  She messaged today, that the parcel has arrived.

In the pursuit of extending the pipe so the new Truma Mono would fit, we had a local plumber look at it.  No … nowhere in Greece would we be able to get anyone to extend this pipe.  He did remove Anthony and Julia’s French bottle, which we felt we ought to return before we consumed all their gas.  In putting our two GasLow bottles back, he managed to create a gas leak!  Some plumber and EUR20 later … more money with no solution!  The system had been running the fridge and I had been using the slow cooker and Remoska on days that I did cook, but now we had no gas at all.  So we ended up at Camping Elizabeth, Rethymno with hook up for 5 nights for EUR19/per night …basic but right on the beach, a cold fridge and HOT SHOWERS!

Whilst all this was going on, I had emailed the Greek mainland Truma wholesaler who had sold us the Truma Mono regulator to say thank you, but it didn’t fit in our cupboard as the pipe is too low, but does he sell the Greek bottle connector to a regulator?  He was promptly on the phone …. he was going to send a Greek gas bottle to regulator pigtail (new term to us) and the pipe to extend our into-habitation pipe to his Crete agent in Heraklion.  This is the agent who said he was too busy to help us.

When the parts arrived the miserable Truma agent said he would fit them.  Result … not your usual motorhome service centre at all.  He is so busy at the moment as he fixes olive harvesting equipment (and water pumps etc) and as the harvest is in full swing he is working 12 hr + days.  They put a motorbike across the front of the shop to secure a parking for Jez and he worked squatting on the pavement!  But he knew what he was doing, which is the main thing.  He spotted the next problem really quickly. He could extend the pipe and fit the new regulator …. but as we have a T bar for the two GasLow tanks, one of the hoses would be pointing N and there is insufficient room!  Double GRRR!  He got on the phone to the mainland wholesaler … we now needed a right hand junction …. it’s ordered and now on its way.

BUT THE GOOD NEWS IS … he quickly extended the pipe, fitted the new regulator and the Greek bottle pigtail … so we are now on gas!  Both he and the wholesaler are adamant that while in Greece we should use the domestic exchangeable bottles as the service station LPG is low quality.

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The Greek bottle all pigtailed up.  Good to go.

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 Not convinced the service statin LPG would be too much of a problem as we have inline filters fitted.  They were replaced in September and I had checked they were clear.

Amazing what you learn when things go wrong.  If there were evening classes in motorhome maintenance, or a week’s residential, we would be the first to sign up. And I KNOW NOW that we should have had a spare regulator … but I had asked on a forum what spares to carry and no-one mentioned a regulator.  We do have a spare water pump at £125, which of course, will not fail now!  And once we pick up the GasLow regulator, we will have a spare … finally!

 

Moni Arkadhi

30th November

Similar design, but not as attractive as Agios Triadha, but interesting for its history.  During the 1866 rebellion against the Turkish rulers, the monastery was a Cretan stronghold and sanctuary for many local families.  After a two day Turkish siege, the defences were breached and the Abbot ignited the ammunition store where many families were sheltering.  Enraged, the Turks killed the Crete survivors, thus inciting a wave of independence sympathy for Crete.

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A Venetian structure Church.

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The well laid out museum included samples of the intricate embroidery carried out by the monks.

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The tree had a arrow pointing to a Turkish bullet still wedged in its trunk. 

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The ammunition store which the Abbot ignited once the battle was lost.  All the women and children sheltering here were killed … preferable to slavery and being placed in a harem.

Acroplis of Eleftherna and Museum

30th November

A new museum for only EUR2, with excellent English explaining how the ancient town of Eleftherna had been one of the largest and most significant in Crete, dating back to C8-7 BC, and then changed / adopted by the Romans.  The museum hosted a temporary exhibition of ancient coins … intricate detail and each town minted its own.  They were traded, based on weight.

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The picnic spot was the very much closed ticket office carpark for the Ancient site.

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Given all these ancient structures spread over a huge area, we though we’d get a bit of walking done, but it was all locked up and no way in. Shame as most places are left open so people can still visit out of season.

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This was the view of the necropolis from the road … as close as we could get.

CO2 Update

Locals in Kalyves warned us that sometimes poison is put down to quell the stray cat population.  The German word for poison is Gift … not much of a gift at all.  And as CO2 both like to eat whatever bones, and stick their trouts in the free food for stray cats and dogs (I know the locals feed them and the kill them!!!) and have both had upset tummies from what rubbish they’ve consumed, the muzzles have had to come out.

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Corrie is more accepting, but they are both frustrated they can’t pick up sticks!  Sadly most people seem to think they are muzzled as they are aggressive. 

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Morning walk along the beach to the small harbour and the view looking back to where we are parked.

Leich is a particularly nasty non-curable disease for dogs.  They cannot catch it from other dogs but from sandfly, in most Mediterranean countries. CO2 have been wearing Scalibor collars since Corsica, but they only last 6 months.  I nipped into the vet to check I could remove the collars, but was told that as Crete is warm and there is a lot of wind, the sandfly are around all year here.  There is also an injection and as neither injection or collar are 100% prevention, it is recommended that they have both.  Duely sorted.

Whilst at the vets, I was given the run down on why I should have Oscar castrated (again).  Poor lamb is booked in for 17th December.  It will be interesting to see how we cope with his cone of shame in the motorhome for a week!  Might be the muzzle or us being very vigilant that he doesn’t worry at his wound during the day.

Walks

We have been making good use of the local walking books Ann gave us.  I’ve done a few when J nanny naps in the afternoon.

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So it rained last night and someone sensibly wore boots and gaiters … not saying who!

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We often come across threshing areas and ancient wells.

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The beach by Camping Elizabeth looking back to Rethymno, and its fortress.  We found the non-touristy centre and liked it better than when we visited with the Aged Ps … lack of tourists, says us!

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Fully loaded but not tied down … we kept our distance!

 

1168-1173: Corsica Initial Impressions and FIAT

1168 – Bastia

Saturday 18th May 2019

Having showered on board, it was a relief to get off the boat, and an hour early at 7.00 a.m..  Corrie had refused to poop on the poop deck, so must’ve been desperate.  Nice boat though, relatively new.

A 5 min drive to a back street where we parked up for most of the day.  A poop opportunity for CO2 (finally) and then we all retired for a few hours sleep.  Downhill into Bastia, a citadel, old town and old port.  All slightly decaying concrete but pleasant.

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J’s first Frenc Pain au Chocolat, with Corrie ever hopeful.

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Bastia Old Port

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Whilst at a cafe, I had a online chat with Fiat … there is a Fiat Professional garage near Calvi … so we drove over to the other side of the island … a tenderly nursed engine, with cars piling up behind especially on hills.  The first campsite we went to was shut, a reverse down a sandy track and up a steep slope.  The second was full with a rally of Dutch … they are everywhere in Corsica from what we’ve seen.  The third had spaces, but EUR29 per night!!!! One dog was free, but the second incurred a fee of EUR5 per night.  Which dog shall we dispose of?!?

Being tired, we ate in the campsite restaurant.  Reasonably priced, pizza for J and chicken skewer for me washed down with a pichet of red.  Actually we asked for a litre pichet and she brought two half litres … old soaks!  Funny how you can instantly dislike some folk.  There was an English couple where the wife asked the staff if the burger had been goat … no beef, they answered with a puzzled expression.  had she thought it was really rat / cat??  She was having a loud one sided conversation with a German gent … apparently she has published a book about her life on Amazon so her children can read all about her life!  175 pages of it … no mention of how large the print.

 

1169 – Calvi

Sunday 19th May

A slow start day, especially for me!  J feels guilty about CO2 poop opportunity and dogs’ breakfast about 9.00, so nobly sorts them out.  A little bit of a wiggle on, when we realised that the TIC shut at 12.30.  But a lovely walk along the beach to get to the town.   The prices here are staggering compared to what we’re used to, but J read that it is a rich yachty destination.  Two coffees £5.30 and ice creams £7.95 (we have been paying £3-5).  So we weren’t tempted to have lunch out … although the menus did look good.  Hopefully it is just this touristy town which is over priced.  

We bumped into the same English couple, from last night’s restaurant, in the Citadel … she didn’t improve with conversation for me either.  J is far more tolerant than I.  Not seen them since :).

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View of Calvi and Citadel from our beach walk into town.

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Christopher Columbus was born here.  Apparently Lord Nelson blew up the house and lost an eye in the process.  There is a plaque but we didnt’ bother looking for it.  

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Views from the Citadel – craggy mountain hinterland.

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1170 – 1173:  Fiat Fun and Frolics!

 

Monday 20th – Thursday May

Fiat … Fix It Again Tomorrow!  Thanks Dan for reminding us, we should have got a Merc or Iveco engine! We coaxed Jez the 5 km to Fiat Calvi… and waited for the expert mechanic. Monsieur after having a look opined that he didn’t know what the problem was – and anyway they couldn’t look in detail for 2 weeks!  Sitting on the Fiat forecourt and on the ‘dog and bone’ to Fiat/RAC Euro rescue…..this started a chain of events…we quickly realised that there was not one person to deal with – UK had to talk to folks in France who didn’t answer phones or emails – and one lady was on hols with no replacement for a day!  We were promised a low loader – decamped to a parking near Calvi airport…..waiting and waiting….cleaned the van – and waited….  finally a low loader arrived, after 6 hours – rather a short loader – far too short.  Mechanic said it was safe to drive and we should take it Bastia tomorrow.  Limped back to cheaper campsite (and nicer).  Morning, we started the engine – into gear – and no movement whatsoever! More Euro phrolic calls – no suitable low loader available – they hope to rent one tomorrow!  Euro 1500 required for the job! We should start our own low loader business…..Not so much a “Comedy of Errors” as “Love’s labour Found – at Euro 1500”   Insurance provided a hire car and chalet accommodation on site – bijou…. K transferee our essentials by car to the chalet.  The Fiat Assistance would have arranged a hotel – B&B per night at EUR100 pp …sounds like 5* to us.  But with the dogs and eating out prices, we’ve opted to pay and claim back on a chalet on the campsite so we can cook ourselves and have a little more room (and deck) for CO2.

Next a.m., as no progress, we drove out for a tourist day….15 mins later – phone call – low loader en route!  U-turn and back to camp.  This was a regular loader…. we pushed Jez out and into position with help from happy campers… tow pin screwed in at the front and tow started as exit from site too low for the combined load. Then – snap, crackle and pop! (who remembers that breakfast cereal?) – tow bolt in Jez sheared off…..and damaged grill and fairing. Fortunately, we have photographic evidence. Now a veritable army of campers arrived and pushed Jez 500 metres (some uphill) out past the site entrance! amazing people, all – mercy beaucoup!  We followed M’sieu Le Tow 2.5 hours to Basti HGV garage – unloaded – and he asked K to sign his paper that all was well. Correctly, K refused unless the grill damage was noted! M’sieu Le Tug threw his toys out of the pram- and exited stage left in a Corsican huff!  Next – the garage cannot do anything until paperwork arrives from Fiat Italy – by pigeon post?  Meanwhile, we googled – and it’s likely the clutch is not covered by the warranty – verified by phone call – it seems the clutch is the problem – verified by ‘paperless’ garage.  Who remembers the concept of the ‘paperless office? In my office, we took multiple photocopies of emails and created more paper…ultimately recycled to provide – more paper…

Left the garage and found a riverside walk so C02 could uncross their legs – they’re so patient, our children pooches.  Back to Camping La Pinede – and site restaurant supper……zzzzzs. 

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Gotta love helpful campers, even if some of the summer shorts a tad tight!

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Damage.  The facia is one long piece, which will, no doubt, cost a fortune and take a year to arrive.

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Combined height.  I was convinced that we would loose the roof on a low bridge, or at least the awning on the other side.

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Being released off the low loader at the commercial vehicle garage.