1425-1433: North and South Walking

Posted on February 8, 2020 by Clunegapyears

1425: Move to Polyrizos

Tuesday 28th January 2019

So we drove down to Polyrizos, where we stayed when the Aged P’s were here in October. Very different now … none of the restaurants were open, but the shop was open in the mornings. Chrysoula, who runs the shop and the Aged P’s accommodation, recognised me, which was nice.

After lunch we walked pretty much as far as we could westward, until a farmer told us we not could go any further … we’d only wanted to look over the next bay, but had to turn back after he waved his arms at us … ho hum.

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Would that be another beachside parking?

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Walk along Peristeres Beach, where General Kripe, the WW2 German Commander, was bundled off Crete by the British / Greek resistance.

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Hill views further on … the coast line here really is special with the mountains falling into the sea.

1426-1428 : Cleaning, Knitting, Coastal Walk and a Sun Tan

Wednesday 29th -Friday 31st January

J seemed to be sleeping for England, or should that be for Ireland, so we had an easy couple of days. I cleaned van and knitted … finally completing J’s jumper that has only been over a year in the making!

I walked along the cliff heading westward, and J did walk the same walk with me another day. Had I kept going, I could have got all the way to Plakias. We drove to Plakias twice and ate both times in the same restaurant … pork in lemon sauce and lamb in … lemon sauce. Nice, but twice was enough. They did have a huge log burner in the middle of the room, which we sat next too … toasty! On one of the days, I was drinking … and completely underestimated how little wine it takes not for me to get pickled … I hiccoughed all the way home and then put myself to bed! Disgraceful!

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We forgot the leads …. found a bit of string for Corrie, but tied a bag to Oscar. Couldn’t get it off, so he bimbled around with a parachute!

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Walking in the other direction.

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It may only have taken a year, but it is finished!

1429: The Correct Results

Saturday 1st February

We left Polyrizos and returned to Kalives … we had a date! Rugby in Plakas with June and Karl. I was driving (an easy decision after the other night!), but the other 3 made up for my abstinence. Two good results for Wales and Ireland.

1430: The Incorrect Results

Sunday 2nd February

Lunch with Lars in Drapanos and England game. This was not a good game, although the lunch was! Lars had never watched a rugby game before and asked some very pertinent questions. When explaining the rules, you realise how strange some of them are!

Way to go …

1431: Cardiologist & K Walk Around Stylos

Monday 3rd February

James has been having a few heart palpitations, so we decided to get him checked out. ECG showed a one second blip and the ultra sound showed, and I quote, a ‘nice heart’. To rule things out J was then sent for blood tests. The results were sent directly to the consultant and showed, that he is a little anaemic and has high cholesterol … the bad sort! No more fried foods and pastries then! He has also worn a heart monitor for 24 hours … had to be careful when going to the toilet with all the wires! The cardiologist had a quick look and couldn’t see anything of worry, but it goes off to be analysed and we get the results back next week. The likelihood is that the tablets J is on are causing the palpitations … but worth getting it checked for peace of mind.

Whilst J rested, I took CO2 for a slightly longer than usual walk around Stylos.

Enough cinnamon breakfast rolls to last us two scrumptious mornings. Also managed to force down the sugar cake he made! We’ve got some nice friends here.

P1180230 Stylos spring.

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Intensive pruning.

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An old Byzantine Church still under repair … my guide book form 2012, said it was under repair then.

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And whilst they are still repairing some churches they are also building others … this one was 2012.

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The mouth of Diktamos Gorge … apparently you can only venture a short way up it before it becomes unsafe … so I didn’t.

1432: Interesting Wall and Path Walk

Tuesday 4th February

We both planned to walk this morning, but ended up having an extended coffee whilst chatting to Judy and Captain Dino, who moved here a year ago … I’d also met them on the beach clean a few weeks back.

Eventually we set off in the AndyPandyCar and we climbed and climbed. Once we got out of the car near Malaxa, we climbed some more. It was a long and slow steady uphill, but great views. Given how late we’d started, we decided to take a short cut back to the car. Maps.Me let us down … or I as navigator did! We ended up following a sheep / goat track for quite a way till we eventually found the correct path.

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We were quickly up to about 300m in the car and then had a long, slow and steady climb up to 550m, with vews looking back over towards Kalyves and Plaka.

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A new long wall had been built … not sure what to surround, but someone had a sense of humour.

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Oscar found, not one, but two sheep’s skulls.

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And J emerging triumphant from the sheep path we followed.

1433: Flora and Follies Walk with Lars

Wednesday 5th January

Lars has walked this region a lot and said he would lead us on a “beauty” walk. I was rather hoping that I would emerge from the walk beautiful! It was a lovely walk … some early orchids and other wild flowers. And lunch at a stone built folly. Lars has met the creator several times … and he only took 3 months to create the edifice where we picnicked.

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Anemones

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Early orchids.

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With all these wild flower, so wonder the honey is so delicious.

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Lars had informed us there were benches at our lunch spot … we were not quite expecting this!

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Real attention to detail.

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And another section both side of the road further up.

Apparently the garden has just a small patch of grass, the rest has been built on. The creator has to find something to do with his hands …

Look at what my oh so charming daughter sent me!

1408-1414: Wonderful Walks and Minor Medical Matters

Posted on January 19, 2020 by Clunegapyears

Saturday 11th – Friday 17th January 2020

Still based in Kalyves, essentially riding out a spot of some bad weather and sorting out some medical issues.

Walks

One walk took us from a new-to-us hill village – Kalamitsi Alexandrou and out through olive and orange groves, with lovely views of the White Mountains. The destination was the Holy Monastery of Agios Georgios at Karydi.

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The monastery on the horizon.

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The entrance … EUR2, wasn’t sure where to leave the money so just left in inside.

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All this complex for just one resident monk. And I heard his deep vibrating snores echo around. He appeared later and got the chap who had been sat on the terrace to drive him somewhere.

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The 12 arch oil factory 1860 within the monastery complex. Large scale olive production started in 1829 and provided a many local families with employment.

Our picnic on the terrace outside … notice the lady with her feet up … she’d been washing up whilst the monk slept … division of the sexes here.

A coffee back at the village cafe and Corrie made herself at home.

Lars, our Swedish resident friend led us on another walk, part of which we’d done before … we parked up behind Almyrida and walked around Douliana and Tsivaras … mostly mixed leaf woods, more oranges and olivestwo cave churches.

Lars assured us that there are no poisonous snakes in Crete. J explained how St Patrick had banished all snakes from Ireland.

Some of our route was old Minoan roads … these huge and smooth slabs have stood the test of time.

Inside one fo the cave churches. We’ve been astounded at the honesty and trust here in Crete. One of the churches had money left on a shelf …

Beach Cleaning

Armed with gloves and plastic bags, we did our bit … a lot of plastic gets washed up after storms. This was a Greek and Ex-pat combined exercise.

CO2 are soooo starved, that they have to wear muzzles at Kalives … people dump cooked bones and there has been some talk of poison being put down. So much as CO2 both attempt to remove the muzzles, they stay on for their own good. The orange ‘kerchief is part of Brian’s over sized duvet that was cut down … should get a pic of all 2 dogs sporting their orange (sorry, Brian, TANGERINE) fashion wear!

The official photo of most of the litter pickers … I am there … about a third in from the left, at the back, between two incredibly tall men.

Medical Matters for the High Maintenance Man!

Let’s talk hearing loss … J had a test about 18 months ago and was told he was borderline for hearing aids. However, I now often have to repeat myself 3 times … and usually what I say, ain’t worth repeating even once. The handsome Dr Manos in Kalives, booked a hearing test in Chania. Moderate loss in both ears at high frequency … no wonder he can’t hear me!! We went straight around the corner to a hearing aid specialist. The lovely Vera had stuck green wax in his ears to get the shape last week and we went on Monday to collect the hearing aids. Time is NOT money in Crete. We were there over and hour and a half, checking the programme and no echo … I had to ring James from the street with passing cars for a test. We left with the hearing aids, having left no deposit, or print of our credit card … all Vera had was a phone number! Take them away and come back in a few days to see how you get on. Her English is better than our Greek but not good, so people from surrounding shops were drafted in for translations.

We returned on Thursday and another hour to go through warranty and make some adjustments. Oh, and to finally pay! James actually hearing what I say now…. RESULT. And his phone is blue toothed so he can select programmes, volume and …. play his music through them … even phone calls go straight to them (sadly I only now hear half the conversation!!!).

A wobbly tooth was inspected by Gorgeous George … locals name for him, although I concur. It will fall out on its own … a conversation about implants. I went to pay … he refused to take any money!

Taken on Trust

As well as the trust with us walking out with the hearing aids, having not left any means for the shop to trace us should we have absconded, I had a similar experience. My phone battery was ‘unhealthy’, so I took it into a large shop in Chania and left it with them for a couple of hours. Picked it up and got out some money … no, you take this paper and pay up stairs. I had the phone in one hand and the paper in the other, passed the door to the street … I could so easily have walked out. You’ll be pleased to know I am one of those folk who tells restaurants if they’ve forgotten to add an item to the bill, so I did pay … all of EUR28.

An earring had a stone come loose … took it into the key cutting / cobbler place next to our morning coffee cafe to be glued … no charge …

1406-1408: Sun and Snow in the Hills

Posted on January 10, 2020 by Clunegapyears

1406: Overcast Walk

Thursday 9th January

Coffee at Arti’s – a regular morning tradition…..

A walk to Macheri village and surroundings – with Brian and Zoa. Early in the walk, Oscar approached a chained dog – and promptly got attacked! He was underneath the other dog and trying to escape – we think the owner believed Oscar was the aggressor – but our O hasn’t an angry bone in his body… no damage done. And that should teach him to stay away from chained dogs protecting their homes.

On with lovely walk – later Brian treated us to his haute cuisine – noshtimo!

Small rock church … nothing unusual there, but the Laura Ashley chandelier is unusual!

This car has been up cycled!

Macheri village, from the start of the walk.

Macheri new amphitheatre with lovely views … where J recited ‘The lake Isle of Inisfree’, one of my faves. The amphitheatre would seat the population of the village several times over.

An old olive press just in a barn along one of the lanes.

Red rocks and J coming out of Macheri.

1407: Snow Frolics

Friday 10th January

Katherine’s early doggie walk photo is amazing!

Then off in our PantyCraftyCar – to the snow – it took a while. We kept driving and driving, seeing the snow piled up on the sides of the roads. Eventually we found sone, almost over the other side of Crete, at Imbros. We’ve walked down the gorge but this time we walked up the mountain. The results were fantastic – frolics in the snow – and that was just Oscar and Corrie! Well worth the trip.

Then – another recommended family restaurant in Stylos – they lit their fire especially for us. K had delicious liver – and I noshed chicken meatballs – a first! Back to base – Kalyves – and chilling….. literally … when the sun goes down, it gets very cool. We are burins gas at about a bottle every 6/7 days, but we don’t do cold, so no stinting ~ switching on the heating.

I’ve taken a few pix of Kalives from the harbour, but this has got to be one of the best. And that snow is where we are headed today.

I was worried the last 2 days of rain would have washed away all the snow … it was not looking promising.

But we found some at Imbros … at least a foot deep.

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Initially Corrie jumped from rock to rock to avoid getting her paws in the snow.

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Mincing.

Playtime.

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And we found another lovely restaurant, 3 Cooks in Stylos; another recommendation. And they lit the fire for us!

1397-1505: A New Decade and Acts of Kindness

Posted on January 8, 2020 by Clunegapyears

Not wanting to sound soppy …. Both James and I are struck with how kind and helpful people are generally, but this last week has particularly humbled us.

1397: New Year’s Eve Festivities

Tuesday 31st December 2019

Walked on Sandy beach and then coffee and pastries. We left the street parking outside what may have been a council building; lots of folk going in and out, but sideways places at us – so with thanks to Paleochora…..

In convoy back to Kalives to load with water and then up to friend of a friend parking (again!). Act of Kindness No. 1: parking for us arranged by Julia. Self showered and off to Eleanore’s eatery at Drapanos. Act of Kindness No. 2: Thank you to June, Karl and Lars for inviting us. Conversation flowed, and the wine flowed faster! A little Greek dancing to the live band, but not much room for a dance floor as the place was rammed with diners. A testament to how relaxed andchilled the Greeks are … the kitchen couldn’t cope with the numbers … 90 covers for a small family restaurant, and hot food was still coming out at 1.00a.m. Important to the Greeks is that it is freshly cooked. A lot of tourists complain that starters arrive often with the main course and that it is not piping hot. It comes out of the kitchen when it is ready and most plates are for sharing.

We left at 2:00 am – the party was still in full swing – including 10 police officers and wives – drink driving??? “Chonia palla” to all – Happy New Year (sort of) – in Greek!!!

The sun out again for our walk on Sandy Beach …

… there was a cold wind so no-one was taking advantage of this being the nudist area.

At Eleanore’s … actually trying to capture the family with fine identical moustaches behind us!

1398: Enforced Easy Day

Wednesday 1st January 2020

Slow start and slow day. Can’s think why!!! Back down the hill to Kalives.

Dogs just got walked along the beach … more snow on them there hills.

1399: Doctor and Soup Making

Thursday 2nd January

Weather was really grim. Visited the good doctor to arrange hearing test for moi – pardon? Pm – coffee / wine with Ann and K making batch soup amounted to our sole activity! A continuing good start to 2020 – shall K ask me to marry her – again – leap year – I would leap at the answer…

1400: Chania Activity

Friday 3rd January

After two days of inertia and lack of activity. A trip to Chania for laundry and late lunch at an amazing restaurant – “Tamam” – which in Arabic means ‘excellent’ – how apposite?

N.B. I know laundry is usually undertaken in the twin tub, but the inclemency of the weather and not wishing to turn Jez into a 5 day long Chinese steam laundry, meant a paid for self service facility was required.

K met Ann for coffee and received post that had arrived at Ann’s Act of Kindness No. 3: this is the second time Ann has acted as post receiver for us … Valarian for Oscar. Not vallium … but similar!! The hope is that it will calm his anxiety and over excitement … fingers crossed.

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Tamam Restaurant, recommence by about 3 people. In old town Chania, so prices a little higher but excellent quality. A plate of mixed starters, then from the left … J’s veal, pork and cheese pie, Brian’s beef and aubergine puree, and K’s seabass with fennel sauce. All really yummy.

1401: A Lars Led Walk

Saturday 4th January

Blazing sunshine and warm – what a change…….Lars was tour guide for our river walk from Kalyves – as Brian was unwell, we took Zoa – who seemed to adopt me … Longest walk (11km) I have done for a year? Wonderful views of the snowy hills and then a glimpse of the sea. Through lots of orange groves … a man slowed his car and thrust his arm out of the window proffering a bag of oranges. We do like the Greeks. Not only did Lars guide the walk, he had baked a Swedish apple pie which we had with coffee. And we left with a chunky slab, a Swedish cheesecake and some lingonberry jam. Act of Kindness No. 4: Lars!

Act of Kindness No. 5: One of our recent friends from New Years Eve (Karl) arrived with a smokeless Bbq – he and K had been discussing kitchen gadgets at New Year – how kind is that – amazing! We just need some fuel and decent weather to test it!

The snow is definitely a little heavier, but so pretty with the sun on it.

A real contrast with the snow and the shirt sleeves only temperature amongst the olive groves.

Oscar and Zoa had a few stand offs and stick pinching moments … very entertaining!

Can’t wait to give this a go … batteries power an underneath fan so it is ready to cook in 5-10 mins and uses much less charcoal.

1402-1404: Wet and Windy

Sunday 5th January

Another day for battening down the hatches….supper with Lars at Icarus…. the menu was a bit limited and white wine ran out so red was a good substitute! Michelle showed a mug she bought Michaelis – the inscription was “I can’t keep calm … I’m a Greek man!”

As the wind speeds increased, we moved Jez – We’re getting good at this – “CluneVanRemovals”???

Monday 6th January

K had developed a cold – so a bit of a duvet day for her – poor lamb – not even a ‘girlyflu’… I manfully stepped up the plate and plated (nice pun, J) a sort of meal……’great balls of fire’ – well, great balls of meat with a sweet potato and a few leaves of cabbage. I’m now awaiting the call from ‘DastardlyChef’…….. Act of Kindness No. 6: Brian kept us topped up with coffees and chocolate!

Tuesday 7th January

“Revicanusenlome” (anagram) moved Jez back to our beach wild camping place. K and Brian had a wet and windy walk with dogs around the head at Plaka. Supper with Brian … K’s take on a Greek classic … pork with celery.

Juicing session with the oranges … Act of Kindness No. 7: Lars had hunted us out to deliver them.

Massive swell and crashing waves off Plaka.

1405: What was that? Pardon!

Wednesday 8th January

Early start – 0700hrs – blimey! Blood test results for moi – all positive…..off to Chania – pronounced “hhanya”! Brian came – we laundrified at ‘Easywash’ – coffee’d across the road where I was persuaded to eat most of our cakes – no great problem – Cretan cakes are scrummy.

Then – to a hearing specialist – for my ‘earring test. The ‘eerie’ result was what we expected – 2 massive ear trumpets to stick in my channels! Who remembers ‘HMV’ – ‘His Masters Voice’ – visualise the poor dog…. well, perhaps a little smaller. We won’t mention the Euroresult…….

Splendid lunch again at Tamam – noshtimmo…. Back next Monday for fitting of trumpets and more Tamam foodies – life is a breeze – if you can ‘ear it. Oh dear, this ‘ere lobe theme may run and run…..

‘ere we go … not Shrek wax but being measured for the hearing aids.

Tamam: chickpea soup, rice and chicken and bacon rolls … yummy.

The Venetian Harbour in Chania has suffered with the strong winds … marble paving slabs ripped up …

… Sand and rubbish thrown up quite a long way into restaurants …

And this is relatively calm now.

Dog walk round the back of Kalives … we are parked up towards the far end.

1388-1392 : Avoiding the Wind

Posted on December 28, 2019 by Clunegapyears

1388: Back at Balos

Sunday 22nd December 2019

Nothing open for coffee en route … straight onto Falassarna, where I got hail and sand blasted on the beach last time we stayed. A beach walk this morning in the sun and lunch. After J’s nanny nap we drove back up to the start of the 8km track to the car park for Balos Beach. We stopped and picked up Brian and Zoa … we wondered how the the AndyPandyCar would cope with the track and the equivalent of 4 adults on board. We managed not to knacker the suspension! With the sun and some wind we descended to the lagoon. Brian and Zoa battled back against the wind along the track to his motorhome.

After fetching Jez from Falassarna we decamped back to Kissamos along the sea front. It was windy, and I didn’t sleep well … I was also dreaming about the lovely meal we’d had. We had been to the restaurant with Maddy and had amazing Pork with celery, greens and lemon. Tonight’s special was cuttlefish with a dill sauce … only one portion left so Brian and I shared. Also chickpea, lemon and olive soup … I’ve just tried to make this in Jez and it is no where as good as the restaurant’s. I complimented the waitress / daughter and she has given me her mobile number and said to ring before we come again … her Mum will cook boiled chicken with rice and butter … sounds horrid, but she assures me it is very good … so we will have to go back!

Kite flying at Falassarna – Brian trying to stay with feet on sand and Zoa trying to catch the kite!

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Track to Balos Beach.

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You’d have thought this chap would have offered to move out of the way!

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James waited and waited, but no donkey taxi!

1389: Hunkering Down in Kissamos

Monday 23rd December 2019

We contemplated a drive up into the hills, but rain threatened and then arrived, so we stayed put. A coffee and cake stop with Brian in town. I did a little Christmas shopping … a lazy day followed by supper chez nous and a game of cribb with Brian.

We followed Brian to shelter from the wind the other side of the sports centre … so much calmer over night.

View from the front of the van, before the latest round of wind and rain.

Zoa also thinks he is a lap dog!

1390: Christmas Eve in Kalyves

Tuesday 24th December

Having had a half decent night’s sleep, I awoke with energy! As I opened the side window i spotted a tap and hose …. so the morning became a laundry session. Twin tub carried around the wall, one of our hoses hanging out of the kitchen window for hot water and the sports centre hose for cold! Then hot showers for both of us. Gotta seize the moment!

We returned to Kalyves and joined the lovely Ann and another couple at Simon’s Italian for a set meal and a rock band. Food was good, wine mostly included and the first set of the band excellent … I recognised most of the tunes. The second set was essentially just LOUD … a bit to heavy rock for our tastes. But a great way to start Christmas.

1391: Christmas Meal

Wednesday 25th December 2019

A leisurely start … presents and my stocking brought from home. The Aged P’s buy gifts for Clare and I on their travels this year’s stocking came from Serbia, South Africa, Sardinia, Sicily, Thailand, France …. a lot of dodgy bottles … the green walnut liqueur from the Serbian monastery was very good.

A short walk (blow!) along a coastal path set us up for the next stage of Christmas. We then drove in convoy with Brian to Drapanos and parked on the driveway of an absent neighbour of Julia and Anthony (who’d helped us with our gas). A short walk up to Eleanore’s and lunch. Fava, a mayo dip and smoked sausage to start. Brian had pork knuckle, which looked better than J and my choice … pork with chestnuts and prunes … tasty but just a little too fatty. Our left overs, the next night were actually better.

A really relaxed meal, followed by cards … Newmarket, Sevens and Pontoon. And the wine kept flowing. As we were leaving, we established that they are also open New Year’s Eve and there is a Greek band playing. That’s New Year’s Eve sorted then!

Christmas morning walk.

Looking out to the Akrotiri peninsula.

1392: Boxing Day Recovery

Thursday 26th December

Another slow start then! Popped into say thank you to Julia for organising the parking … we can also park there for New Year.

Back to Kalyves … no energy to move far today. We did manage the walk we’d done yesterday … easy option as we now knew the route! Also easy option on food as recycled the left overs!

Forgotten we had this … bought some weeks ago at charity bazaar … tasty, but not as good as my mother’s!

Clune Gap Years

A journal and reflections of our motorhome travels

Tag Archives: Kalyves